GTR Yellow Hat - High Front Tire Wear

[bucha22]

Yesterday I was in a medium race (32 laps) with people using only the GTRs ´08. One group with Calsonic, another with Xanavi and my group with the Yellow Hat. The upgrades were all allowed, so the car had massive 711HPs, wings at maximum and brakes setting was 5 in front and 6 rear. (when I get home I put the full setup)

I did most of the setups sugestion for my group. We could run fast in the first 3, 4 laps, but after that, the front tire wear start to have a big impact in lap times (with rear tires still ok without any wear surprise). I got the pole and after the race started I could keep in 1st until lap 5, followed by 1 Calsonic Impul. After that he passed me, and difference between us was higher each lap.

At lap 11, I had only 15% of front tires and about 60% in rear. So my strategy in the race was 2 pits. 1 in lap 11, another in lap 22. In the end I finished in 2nd but just because at least 3 others drivers didn't refuel enough in their pit stops. The guy with the Calsonic Impul who was in 1st stoped in same lap 11, but he still had 50% in front and rear tires.
But after wathing the full replay, I notice that those Calsonics Impul and most of Xanavis, had equal front and rear tire wear (but one Xanavi had the same behavior that ours Yellow Hat, with high front tire wear). So I conclude that this problem isn't about the car, but some thing in setup I couldn't find out how to workaround.

Is there any thing I could do to minimize the front tire wear, adjusting only the suspension, lsd and brakes without touching the wing settings to have all the grip I can?

It doesn't matter if the car goes a little slower, since I want it to have equal front and rear tire wear.

Any sugestion is welcome.
And sorry about the english.
Thanks.

 

[CyKosis1973]

Give us the rest of your suspension setup when you can, there are some intelligent people here who will likely be able to help you. I've found that wheel alignment has a large impact on tyre wear, high toe or camber will adversely effect how the tyres interact with the track surface. There are other elements of suspension that can be adjusted to help reduce tyre wear. Diff settings might be having an effect, post them too...

{Cy}

 

[Johnnypenso]

I've found that making the front sharper and the rear looser tends to correct this problem. When I have a car set up I run a few laps and note the tire wear. If it's uneven, I go to that end of the car and give it a bit more grip and/or the other end and loosen it up.

I set up all my cars with fairly standard toe and camber settings. Camber usually around 2.5/2.0 with RS tires down to 1.5/1.0 SS or in that neighbourhood. Toe I usually start with something like -.10/+.10. If you use similar settings on each car to begin with you have a constant, predictable base to start with. It also eliminates wonky tire wear effects from wonky camber/toe settings. Brakes I usually start at 6/5.

In this case you could do one of two things. Leave the basic suspension set up the way it is and raise the front end. You have a fairly large difference so I'd start with at least 2 or 3 points. Take the car out and run it a few laps and see what happens. If they are still not quite even, raise the front another notch or two.

Alternately, you can stiffen the front springs and loosen the rear to try and accomplish the same thing.

For me, excessive rear tire wear on either end is an indication that that end of the car is sliding excessively. This means a push/understeer in the front, or too loose in the rear if it's excessive rear tire wear. Of course that also depends on the car. Many LMP cars on RH or RM tires have a lot of wheelspin so carefully modulating the throttle with more powerful cars on harder compounds helps too.

A good indicator is how fast the tires get up to temperature in the first couple of laps. If one end is full temp and the other is still partly blue, the full temp end will wear faster. As you make adjustments, note that discrepancy first.

Good luck and if you don't mind, can you post your findings if you solve the problem?

 

[Highlandor]

Tyre wear can be caused not just by setup but by driving style too, however, in your post you mentioned the rears were still good after 11 laps.

With that much horsepower going through the rear wheels it indicates it might not be the driving style as you seem to be able to look after the rear tyres "ok", plus this is something that's affecting other cars too, so it seems like a setup issue.

As for where in the setup, well, you will need to post the entire exact (FULL) setup of your car, as much detail as posible please and also what steering wheel you're using (and any "sensitivity" seetings you have on there), driving style i.e. are tyres going red at all and if so where.

Also, a breakdown of lap times would also help.

As for the setup, the most common form of tyre wear for a FR car like the Supra would I guess be "over" tuning, but this can be both the front and the rear.

If you over tune the rear and have so much grip and stability at the rear it's causing understeer at the front. Then you have to force the car into the corner, amking the tyres work harder, and wear quicker. This is an "indirect issue" a it's the rear causing problems with the front.

If you over tune the front i.e. too high camber and toe etc then this is a "direct" issue as the front is causing the front problems.

So sometimes, even though you have problems with the front, by adjusting the rear it will help. This is only valied for a small amount of problems, but it's always worth remembering because if you hit a brick wall adjusting the front then maybe, or it's likely it's the rear or setup parts that affect the rear of a FR car i.e. the LSD.

It's a real "minefield" though, I know guys that run 3.5 / 4.0 camber at the front of 4WD's yet still finish a 20 mile race with the same tyre wear as guys using a totoally different setup and maybe 50% less camber.

This is why infomation is king, there's so many variables, the more info you have and options to resolve the issues, the more likely you are to keep finding solutions to problems, instead of going round in circles or hitting a brick wall.

Good luck 👍

H

 

[iamjajo]

Try changing the front toe to a negative value. Start with -.16 and see how that works

 

[TAF119]

I think your best best is to decrease camber in the front by.... 0.3. you front toe for that car shouldnt be more than 0.2 in the front and no less than.... -0.10 instead of having your car slammed down to the ground. heighten you car in the front by.. 8 mm and the rear by 5mm. adjust the spring rate accordingly. ride a slightly harder shock in the from to counter balance such wear. it also might benefit you to ride with slightly softer roll bars in the front. this is completely off of a whim, because i dont know the set up or how you drive. but i hope it helps.

 

[killerjimbag]

I think your best best is to decrease camber in the front by.... 0.3. you front toe for that car shouldnt be more than 0.2 in the front and no less than.... -0.10 instead of having your car slammed down to the ground. heighten you car in the front by.. 8 mm and the rear by 5mm. adjust the spring rate accordingly. ride a slightly harder shock in the from to counter balance such wear. it also might benefit you to ride with slightly softer roll bars in the front. this is completely off of a whim, because i dont know the set up or how you drive. but i hope it helps.

You are giving someone your thoughts and have no idea what track he is racing nor what his setup is.If you have a tune then give it to him.Don't give out on a whim random thoughts.There are lot's of people who do tune and will help,doing this could send the guy backwards and probably will.Were are you getting your toe and camber settings from?

 

[FordMKIVJ5]

Are you using a wheel?
A lot of people turn the wheel too much causing front lock ups.

 

[TAF119]

You are giving someone your thoughts and have no idea what track he is racing nor what his setup is.If you have a tune then give it to him.Don't give out on a whim random thoughts.There are lot's of people who do tune and will help,doing this could send the guy backwards and probably will.Were are you getting your toe and camber settings from?

a whim on his driving style you arse. its a basic setup up.. i know how the game works.. believe it or not.. i dont know what track but i can assure you it is probably something like suzuka or something with flat turns. i assume he weight is resting alot on his front tires.. via the excessive wear.. so shut up and read what i said not what you assume

 

[killerjimbag]

a whim on his driving style you arse. its a basic setup up.. i know how the game works.. believe it or not.. i dont know what track but i can assure you it is probably something like suzuka or something with flat turns. i assume he weight is resting alot on his front tires.. via the excessive wear.. so shut up and read what i said not what you assume

How the hell do you know what his driving style is? Is he using a wheel or sticks?.What basic setup are you talking about yours or his?You know what they say about assume.Maybe he is at Daytona Road course so your assumption means squat.Maybe it's Spa,or better yet Nur Nord.I'm not the one assuming anything.You think he has to much weight on his front tires,so what is camber and toe going to do with the weight?Maybe he has no camber or toe so in essence he will get more tire wear.I'm not the newbie here.

 

[killerjimbag]

Yesterday I was in a medium race (32 laps) with people using only the GTRs ´08. One group with Calsonic, another with Xanavi and my group with the Yellow Hat. The upgrades were all allowed, so the car had massive 711HPs, wings at maximum and brakes setting was 5 in front and 6 rear. (when I get home I put the full setup)

I did most of the setups sugestion for my group. We could run fast in the first 3, 4 laps, but after that, the front tire wear start to have a big impact in lap times (with rear tires still ok without any wear surprise). I got the pole and after the race started I could keep in 1st until lap 5, followed by 1 Calsonic Impul. After that he passed me, and difference between us was higher each lap.

At lap 11, I had only 15% of front tires and about 60% in rear. So my strategy in the race was 2 pits. 1 in lap 11, another in lap 22. In the end I finished in 2nd but just because at least 3 others drivers didn't refuel enough in their pit stops. The guy with the Calsonic Impul who was in 1st stoped in same lap 11, but he still had 50% in front and rear tires.
But after wathing the full replay, I notice that those Calsonics Impul and most of Xanavis, had equal front and rear tire wear (but one Xanavi had the same behavior that ours Yellow Hat, with high front tire wear). So I conclude that this problem isn't about the car, but some thing in setup I couldn't find out how to workaround.

Is there any thing I could do to minimize the front tire wear, adjusting only the suspension, lsd and brakes without touching the wing settings to have all the grip I can?

It doesn't matter if the car goes a little slower, since I want it to have equal front and rear tire wear.

Any sugestion is welcome.
And sorry about the english.
Thanks.

Here go to this link and try this tune from RKM.At the very least it will help you out.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=4746141

 

[TAF119]

you are too cute

 

[killerjimbag]

you are too cute

Cute I am not.A little older and wiser than you,probably.At least I gave him some proper info he can at least use.Sorry it's kind of hard searching on my phone,but there is the answer he is looking for.

 

[Highlandor]

Here go to this link and try this tune from RKM.At the very least it will help you out.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showpost.php?p=4746141

Agreed with alot of your points on this thread so far, however, RKM setups are not always the answer.

RKM setup offline and use Trial Mountain alot, not 100%, but alot, meaning many of their tunes are "soft".

Try driving some of the RKM cars on a faster, smoother track like Spa for instance, and you'll see the tunes don't suit those tracks alot of the time, something Roj and RJ will holds their hands up to - I know I've mentioned it to them already.

The RKM cars have exceptional turn in, prettty much always, it's superb on virtually all their cars, but in some situations the back end is just not suitable (especially for those with a heavy right foot), or the car is a little too soft for some situations.

Oh, before people start saying "stop slagging RKM off" "I'd like to see you do better" " blah blah blah blah", I'm not, RJ is on my friend's list and we've talked about tuning alot and agree on the things mentioned here in this post.

I'm just pointing out something that RKM acknowledge that needs to be taken into consideration when using one of their tunes.

As you mention in your post - until the OP starts to provide some data / detail we can work from, our hands are tied and most suggestions about adjusting this or that are just "pot luck" if they work.

 

[Johnnypenso]

Also keep in mind OP, that when running longer races with tire wear on, it sometimes pays to relax your pace a bit to save the tires. A great deal of tire wear is caused by extremely hard braking. Braking just a split second earlier, with a little less intensity will have small effect on your lap times but may allow you to do one less pit stop which will more than make up for it. I recently ran a 50 lap Enduro on an 8km+ track and paced myself so I had one less pit stop than the rest of the field, and saved mucho time by doing so.

Someone may have mentioned this above, but turning the wheel excessively also lead to increased front tire wear. I know when I first started using the wheel I was cranking it over hard when the car wasn't turning as sharp as I wanted. It's a natural instinct, one I had to train myself out of. That also helped with front tire wear.

 

[Rotary Junkie]

Agreed with alot of your points on this thread so far, however, RKM setups are not always the answer.

RKM setup offline and use Trial Mountain alot, not 100%, but alot, meaning many of their tunes are "soft".

I'd say our full blown race cars tend to be very stiff.

And our street cars vary wildly in terms of how they're actually set up.

Try driving some of the RKM cars on a faster, smoother track like Spa for instance, and you'll see the tunes don't suit those tracks alot of the time, something Roj and RJ will holds their hands up to - I know I've mentioned it to them already.

I won't say that. I will say certain tracks like to bring out understeer in some of my cars (GVS, Nurb GP) but that's about it.

I'll also say that dedicating a setup to those tracks may on occasion make it too loose for others. We've selected Trial as our test track because we've built up a knowledge as to what's "fast" or not in terms of lap time and it results in tunes that will work well pretty much anywhere.

I only want to slap you for saying this because you said our stuff doesn't work at Spa; that was my test track in GTR2 for much the same reason Trial has been in GT. If it works there, it'll generally work everywhere.

The RKM cars have exceptional turn in, prettty much always, it's superb on virtually all their cars, but in some situations the back end is just not suitable (especially for those with a heavy right foot), or the car is a little too soft for some situations.

Again, depends on the car itself. Turn-in on my cars is a side effect of my driving style (or lack thereof), and having the car require some throttle control is another.

Oh, before people start saying "stop slagging RKM off" "I'd like to see you do better" " blah blah blah blah", I'm not, RJ is on my friend's list and we've talked about tuning alot and agree on the things mentioned here in this post.

Agree on some of them, sure.

I'm just pointing out something that RKM acknowledge that needs to be taken into consideration when using one of their tunes.

Again, it depends. Trying to say all our cars are this way is completely wrong. Most of our cars were done offline so it's very hit-or-miss as to whether they'll work online, though there are a fair few designed specifically for online use.

As you mention in your post - until the OP starts to provide some data / detail we can work from, our hands are tied and most suggestions about adjusting this or that are just "pot luck" if they work.

This is true.

 

[bucha22]

Thank you all for all the tips. I just finished the reading and now I'll try some laps in same Suzuka cirtuit with my settings to have more precise data to put here and get all the settings I'm using in the car, so we can better discuss this subject.

About my driving style, in that race I was driving very agressive in the beggining of the race, trying to get some distance from the second racer, but the lipstream was strong and he could keep the pace very close to me. As I said, after the 4/5 lap, he passed me and I couldn't follow him because my front tires started to show some degree of abuse. But even if I don't force too much in the corners, as when I was practicing with my friends, the same berravior happens. Everytime I have to pitstop, the front tires were at the end while the rear tires were claiming for many more laps.

I use a DFGT wheel. In options, the settings are: professional / simulation / 3 in FF.
In the race all the assistances was free for use, but the only one I used that day was the skid recovery force because everyone else was using it, but all the others were off and ABS set to 1.

I'll drive some laps now and soon I come back with my setup data and precise lap times.

Thanks a lot for now.

Brb soon.

 

[bucha22]

Someone may have mentioned this above, but turning the wheel excessively also lead to increased front tire wear. I know when I first started using the wheel I was cranking it over hard when the car wasn't turning as sharp as I wanted. It's a natural instinct, one I had to train myself out of. That also helped with front tire wear.

After I did my 10 laps and read this, maybe this exemple of turning the wheel excessively could be one of the causes of this problem when I'm using the SGT GT-Rs '08. I'm saying the GT-Rs, because I race the same way with any NSX and i have a better control over the tire wear, but those a MR cars and their behavior is very different on track.

Well, here are my results after these 10 laps.
10 laps because the tires woudn't hold another one. I tried to run those 10 laps the same way I did in the previous race with all the racers on track and the results were very similar.

So here is my car setup:
All upgrades that can be done, was done... Engine, turbo lvl 3, and tires used was RS.

I will copy my info as it shows in GT5 tuner in my cellphone (great app for android btw).

Ride height: 0 -5
Spring rate: 16.0 14.0
Damper ext: 7 8
Damper comp: 7 8
Anti-roll bar: 4 7

Camber angle: 1.2 0.5
Toe angle: 0.2 0.2

Brake bias: 5 7

Initial torque: 11
Acc Sensitiv: 18
Decel Sens: 22

Aero: 40 65


Here are laps 1-5

In the race day my best time was 1:48:198, today I could lower it a little bit.

And here the result from 6-10.

The rear tires are half-low here because I ran out track 3 times so it is a litle bit lower than it should be, but I think you can have an idea about the difference between front and rear tire wear.

I don't know if this difference could be only because if I drive agressively. I think if I race slower, the only difference should be a little more laps before the pitstop, but the tire wear difference would be the same.

 

[killerjimbag]

Agreed with alot of your points on this thread so far, however, RKM setups are not always the answer.

RKM setup offline and use Trial Mountain alot, not 100%, but alot, meaning many of their tunes are "soft".

Try driving some of the RKM cars on a faster, smoother track like Spa for instance, and you'll see the tunes don't suit those tracks alot of the time, something Roj and RJ will holds their hands up to - I know I've mentioned it to them already.

The RKM cars have exceptional turn in, prettty much always, it's superb on virtually all their cars, but in some situations the back end is just not suitable (especially for those with a heavy right foot), or the car is a little too soft for some situations.

Oh, before people start saying "stop slagging RKM off" "I'd like to see you do better" " blah blah blah blah", I'm not, RJ is on my friend's list and we've talked about tuning alot and agree on the things mentioned here in this post.

I'm just pointing out something that RKM acknowledge that needs to be taken into consideration when using one of their tunes.

As you mention in your post - until the OP starts to provide some data / detail we can work from, our hands are tied and most suggestions about adjusting this or that are just "pot luck" if they work.

I have used RKM,Mad Finn,Praiano and my own.Most tuners do not drive like me.Never had an issue with any of the above mentioned other than some minor tweaks that can't be fixed with common sense.As for the OP try one of the above mentioned tuners.They usually are pretty good at what they do and minor adjustments will make your car drive better.Also remember you have to go slow to go fast.

 

[Blaze_409]

I use a DFGT wheel. In options, the settings are: professional / simulation / 3 in FF.
In the race all the assistances was free for use, but the only one I used that day was the skid recovery force because everyone else was using it, but all the others were off and ABS set to 1.



Brb soon.

gtr is understeery stock. tune will fix. Skid recovery will cause understeer. The way i see it. Nissan GTRs have a built in skid recovery in that it naturally front engine understeers. meaning the rear wont be sliding around like say an NSX.

If everyone is using Skid Recovery i say drive an NSX. ive never done it before but i suspect an nsx would be lethally fast with skid recovery .

After I did my 10 laps and read this, maybe this exemple of turning the wheel excessively could be one of the causes of this problem when I'm using the SGT GT-Rs '08. I'm saying the GT-Rs, because I race the same way with any NSX and i have a better control over the tire wear, but those a MR cars and their behavior is very different on track.

Well, here are my results after these 10 laps.
10 laps because the tires woudn't hold another one. I tried to run those 10 laps the same way I did in the previous race with all the racers on track and the results were very similar.

So here is my car setup:
All upgrades that can be done, was done... Engine, turbo lvl 3, and tires used was RS.

I will copy my info as it shows in GT5 tuner in my cellphone (great app for android btw).

Ride height: 0 -5
Spring rate: 16.0 14.0
Damper ext: 7 8
Damper comp: 7 8
Anti-roll bar: 4 7

Camber angle: 1.2 0.5
Toe angle: 0.2 0.2

Brake bias: 5 7

Initial torque: 11
Acc Sensitiv: 18
Decel Sens: 22

Aero: 40 65


Here are laps 1-5

In the race day my best time was 1:48:198, today I could lower it a little bit.

And here the result from 6-10.

The rear tires are half-low here because I ran out track 3 times so it is a litle bit lower than it should be, but I think you can have an idea about the difference between front and rear tire wear.

I don't know if this difference could be only because if I drive agressively. I think if I race slower, the only difference should be a little more laps before the pitstop, but the tire wear difference would be the same.

increase the rear spring rate.
Also dont use 40 65. i prefer 40 60. too much rear downforce will eat front tires. and you get marginally better top speed ...especailly around suzuka....40 60 will get you around the 130R and the hig speed corners.

 

[Highlandor]

Also remember you have to go slow to go fast.

Also remember driving style(s) and sensitivity / equiptment settings vary hugely between people... Meaning a perfect setup for one person can be almost useless for another..

I only want to slap you for saying this because you said our stuff doesn't work at Spa; that was my test track in GTR2 for much the same reason Trial has been in GT. If it works there, it'll generally work everywhere.

I think Roj said he wasn't surprised the EVO didn't work at Spa..?? Maybe - maybe not, mgiht have got that wrong.

But yeah, my fault Kyle, didn't word that as well as it could've been, apologies - no offence intended.

P.S. Slaps are great for destroying ego's, but here in England, if u let someone get back up, they'll destroy your head!!

Best to put them down for good... i.e head butt or "slam"

Ride height: 0 -5
Spring rate: 16.0 14.0
Damper ext: 7 8
Damper comp: 7 8
Anti-roll bar: 4 7

Camber angle: 1.2 0.5
Toe angle: 0.2 0.2

Brake bias: 5 7

Initial torque: 11
Acc Sensitiv: 18
Decel Sens: 22

Aero: 40 65

I don't know if this difference could be only because if I drive agressively. I think if I race slower, the only difference should be a little more laps before the pitstop, but the tire wear difference would be the same.

Initially, just looking at this setup, what I "see" from this isn't too bad - I've seen alot worse setups, but the toe figure jumps out as being a potential problem.

You quote 0.2 not -0.2, so I'm presuming your running + figures.

As mentioned in the other post, try reversing this to a negative ( - ) value instead, try -0.15 to start off with.

If your rear tyres are "OK", then you might as well leave the rear toe as is it.

Your Ride height is lower at the rear, so this will loosen the back end and make the car turn more (ovesteer) when "lifting" the brake and throttle. But you're getting front tyre wear.

So, to me, there's understeer somehere in this setup that's tryiing to be cured by the ride height setting, but ultimately it's not working as you're having to force the car into the corners, making the tyres work harder and wear out quicker.

The LSD braking sensitivty and ride height contradicts themselves - the higher (than default) LSD braking sensitivity setting is causing underster when lifting, but this is counter-acted against by the ride height causing oversteer in the same situation.

Having Racing Soft tyres, a high rear toe figure and a high Braking senstivity LSD could be the issue here - plus possibly the rear roll bar being at max and the rear springs around 40% - this, potentially is where the understeer is occurring, as it's stopping the car from "turning in" naturally.

I'd change the ride height and LSD Brake Sense figures to stop them "cancelling" each other out, maybe loosen the rear roll bar and / or lower the rear toe figure aswell.

Go to a level ride height, maybe -5mm front and rear and slowly but slowly start reducing the LSD brake sense figure but maybe 3-5 clicks a time, and or change the toe too.

Possibly even change the brakes to front 4 rear 7/8 and increase ABS to 2-4, it's all about balancing the brakes, LSD and suspension so the car turns in well and there's a smooth transistion between braking, releasing the brakes and turning in.

It's very hard to explain or to be accurate with the changes to be honest... especially with not knowng how the car is being driven or how it currently feels - but I've tied my best according to what I know works for tyre wear in the series I run / race and the people that race in them say works and don't.

Best of luck..

EDIT: just noticed you were using SRF - in that case, I'm not sure the above will help, I have no idea on the effect of SRF on setups, I never use it and don't know anyone else who does - sorry..

 

[Rotary Junkie]

Also remember driving style(s) and sensitivity / equiptment settings vary hugely between people... Meaning a perfect setup for one person can be almost useless for another..



I think Roj said he wasn't surprised the EVO didn't work at Spa..?? Maybe - maybe not, mgiht have got that wrong.

But yeah, my fault Kyle, didn't word that as well as it could've been, apologies - no offence intended.

None taken. And he may have said something to that effect but it was more in reference to the Evo in general rather than all of our tunes. AYC is good in very twisty bits, not so much at higher speeds.

P.S. Slaps are great for destroying ego's, but here in England, if u let someone get back up, they'll destroy your head!!

Best to put them down for good... i.e head butt or "slam"

Well, when you get smacked around by a bear and they give you a chance to get up, your first instinct is gonna be to get the hell away. Most people won't attempt a fight they won't win.

Darwin takes care of those who do.

 

[bucha22]

gtr is understeery stock. tune will fix. Skid recovery will cause understeer. The way i see it. Nissan GTRs have a built in skid recovery in that it naturally front engine understeers. meaning the rear wont be sliding around like say an NSX.

If everyone is using Skid Recovery i say drive an NSX. ive never done it before but i suspect an nsx would be lethally fast with skid recovery .

increase the rear spring rate.
Also dont use 40 65. i prefer 40 60. too much rear downforce will eat front tires. and you get marginally better top speed ...especailly around suzuka....40 60 will get you around the 130R and the hig speed corners.

The league in which I am participating all racers can only use the Calsonic Impul, Xavani and my group have the Yellowhat, but yes, the NSX is a rocket with skid recovery. I just played few moments ago against the same folks in a free supergt race without performance points, power or weight limit in Autumn Ring. Most of them choose the GT-R GT500 Stealth and I choose my NSX Mobil 1 which is my no1 car for race.

Saddly I didn't win. I finished 2 seconds after the GT500 Stealth, followed by another 3 Stealth and then ramdom spgt cars. But I'm pretty sure that GT500 Stealth have around 750HP fully tuned as they were using, while my NSX have 666HP in same way.

I got one conclusion after that race... If I want to run those GT-Rs, I need to find a way to fix this tire wear or re-think all the way I drive them.

With any NSX, using the same basic setup with some minor tweaks, I can push the car's limit in the corners and still have everything under control and I don't have any problem with tire wear. Now with those GT-Rs, it's like I'm back in the kindergarten...
And thanks for the tips. I'll try them tomorrow.

 

[bucha22]

Highlandor, I know it's hard to explain all those things for someone which you didn't see how is racing, but thank you very much for the class.

I don't race with that SRF on too. It's ridiculous how the tire grip change when that thing is on but all the others in that league decided to leave all the assistances free for use. I was against it, but it was about me and my friend voice vs all the others players.
But I'm testing everything with all assistances off. Just ABS1 as I always use in every car I have.

Thanks again to all the others who helped with any information too.

Tomorrow, when I have more time, I'll these new setup changes.

 

[bucha22]

Initially, just looking at this setup, what I "see" from this isn't too bad - I've seen alot worse setups, but the toe figure jumps out as being a potential problem.

You quote 0.2 not -0.2, so I'm presuming your running + figures.

Yes, it was positive. I tried 0 and -0.10 before, but after I change it to 0.2, I could run 2 more laps with those tires. Before that, I was pitting at lap 8.

If your rear tyres are "OK", then you might as well leave the rear toe as is it.

Your Ride height is lower at the rear, so this will loosen the back end and make the car turn more (ovesteer) when "lifting" the brake and throttle. But you're getting front tyre wear.

So, to me, there's understeer somehere in this setup that's tryiing to be cured by the ride height setting, but ultimately it's not working as you're having to force the car into the corners, making the tyres work harder and wear out quicker.

The LSD braking sensitivty and ride height contradicts themselves - the higher (than default) LSD braking sensitivity setting is causing underster when lifting, but this is counter-acted against by the ride height causing oversteer in the same situation.

Having Racing Soft tyres, a high rear toe figure and a high Braking senstivity LSD could be the issue here - plus possibly the rear roll bar being at max and the rear springs around 40% - this, potentially is where the understeer is occurring, as it's stopping the car from "turning in" naturally.

I'd change the ride height and LSD Brake Sense figures to stop them "cancelling" each other out, maybe loosen the rear roll bar and / or lower the rear toe figure aswell.

Go to a level ride height, maybe -5mm front and rear and slowly but slowly start reducing the LSD brake sense figure but maybe 3-5 clicks a time, and or change the toe too.

Possibly even change the brakes to front 4 rear 7/8 and increase ABS to 2-4, it's all about balancing the brakes, LSD and suspension so the car turns in well and there's a smooth transistion between braking, releasing the brakes and turning in.

Tomorrow and maybe the next days will be longer than normal... But thanks for all the info.

It's very hard to explain or to be accurate with the changes to be honest... especially with not knowng how the car is being driven or how it currently feels - but I've tied my best according to what I know works for tyre wear in the series I run / race and the people that race in them say works and don't.

I completely agree, but thanks for your patience and goodwill.

EDIT: just noticed you were using SRF - in that case, I'm not sure the above will help, I have no idea on the effect of SRF on setups, I never use it and don't know anyone else who does - sorry..

I don't like it and I don't use it very often, but in theory, if a car is good without SRF, when you turn it on, it's like it have some glue in the tires when you are cornering.

Thanks again.

 

[Highlandor]

None taken.

Cool, appreciated 👍

Well, when you get smacked around by a bear and they give you a chance to get up, your first instinct is gonna be to get the hell away. Most people won't attempt a fight they won't win.

We talking Grizzly or "teddy" (bear) here ..??

I think I can handle the latter (bring it...bring it....c'mon then, let's see what you got then, huh..??)

Highlandor, I know it's hard to explain all those things for someone which you didn't see how is racing, but thank you very much for the class.

Ok, no problem, I just hope they help with either this car or another car you tune in the future.. 👍

Thanks
H

 

[Rotary Junkie]

We talking Grizzly or "teddy" (bear) here ..??

I think I can handle the latter (bring it...bring it....c'mon then, let's see what you got then, huh..??)

Grizzly.

At best you'd be facing the right way to run away.