GTRA | RSeat WSGTC S3 | Main Thread

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Yes if they have the same BHP then the car with more torque will be quicker but that also applies to BHP as well.
If they have the same torque then more BHP will be quicker.

My point is would you rather have 200 BHP extra in your engine or more torque.
I would rather have the BHP.
500bhp with less torque or 300bhp with more torque the 500 will win all day :P
 
I know I said I wouldn't do this but...

Max.Power=top speed
Max.Torque=maximum acceleration

Sleep tight CSL... (I hope,:lol:)
 
Okay last one I swear :D
When it comes to racing with high revving engines horsepower is more important than torque, because you will always have more horsepower than torque in a high revving engine.

On a low revving engine (diesel engines for example) they will have more torque than horsepower that's why you get a nice kick in your backside on your roadcar diesel when you put your foot to the floor , but then you need to change gear because you got no horsepower :P
 
I just have to..

Truck engine:
2500 Nm @ 2500 rpm
620 bhp @ 3000 rpm

F1 engine:
250 Nm @ 15000 rpm
620 bhp @ 18000 rpm


The truck is designed to pull heavy loads. Short gearing. Low maintenance.

The F1 is designed to go fast. Long gearing. High maintenance.

The truck can transport 25000 kg.
The F1 engine is also capable of transporting 25000 kg. In theory, both engines are equally strong (620 bhp). The F1 engine would need a different gearing, and a very high maintenance bill, but those facts are secondary in this example.


With this in mind:
Which engine can pull the heaviest load?
A) The engine producing 2500 Nm, or the engine producing 250 Nm?
Answer: Impossible to say.

B) The engine producing 620 bhp, or the other engine producing 620 bhp?
Answer: Both cars can pull the same load.


Another example: It's actually entirely possible to apply any amount of tourqe on to a crank shaft without the object moving one bit.
Let's say you're about to start riding your mountainbike from a stand still on the highest gear. You can apply let's say 100 Nm on that pedal without the bike moving at all.
Chose a lower gear, and that exact same tourqe will result in the bike starting to move.
Same amount of tourqe->different resistance->more revs->more effect.

What I can agree on is that tourqe have to be in the equation. Power can not be produced without the tourqe, yes.
But tourqe as a sign of any kind of performance is horse ****!

It's the tourqe in combination with the revs (time) that create effect.
Effect is what moved an object.
That is physics.

Tourqe has nothing to do with acceleration. Power (effect or HP) accelerates a car.
We can take the BMW 335 as an example.
It's engine produce 407 Nm from 1400-5000 rpm.
If we have 2 BMW 335's, one driver only stay within the maximum tourqe register (1400-5000 rpm), and the other driver push the rev guage to the max in each gear.
I'm not totally sure, but the driver who push the rev guage all the way to the top will most likely never be belove 5000 rpm.
He is driving the car where the most effect is created.
I can swear to god, that the driver who race his car in the 1400-5000 rpm range will fall drasticly behind.

This was my last post regarding the tourqe/hp discussion. I swear! :lol:
 
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Anybody else have any thoughts about the GT300 cars and the specs?I have tested all of the cars in the newest preseason specs on 3 different tracks and the field seems very balanced to me.The MR-S has the edge on the long straights,+150 MPH and the IS350 runs out of steam at 150,but those differences dont equal a big gap in the lap times.
 
I think the gt300 are fairly even as well. Think the 08 subaru need slightly less power and the Mrs more but that's about it
 
Maybe This question had asked before.
'Do all of the participant have the DLC Track Pack???"
Because since 2.02, Spa cannot be used to someone who doesnt have the DLC.
 
ramstig
Maybe This question had asked before.
'Do all of the participant have the DLC Track Pack???"
Because since 2.02, Spa cannot be used to someone who doesnt have the DLC.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's an interesting curve ball we got thrown there.:grumpy:

Anybody that can post up the current list of GT300 specs? (not last seasons, the ones Aderrrm was working on)
 
I would recommend it, it's a fantastic track, and the best quality of any GT track to boot.

Anybody that can post up the current list of GT300 specs? (not last seasons, the ones Aderrrm was working on)
 
CSLACR
I would recommend it, it's a fantastic track, and the best quality of any GT track to boot.

Anybody that can post up the current list of GT300 specs? (not last seasons, the ones Aderrrm was working on)
Click to expand...

MR-S----: 315 BHP - 1125 kg - 531 PP - 100% - stock
Celica---: 314 BHP - 1050 kg - 538 PP - 97.6% - stock
Garaiya S: 329 BHP - 1125 kg - 535 PP - 98.3% - stock
Garaiya P: 334 BHP - 1175 kg - 530 PP - 95.0% - stock
RX7 P---: 322 BHP - 1100 kg - 528 PP - 95.5% - stock
RX7 S---: 327 BHP - 1100 kg - 530 PP - 97.5% - stock
IS350---: 352 BHP - 1150 kg - 548 PP - 94.7% - stage 3 engine tuning
ImprezaP: 344 BHP - 1100 kg - 548 PP - 97.2% - stage 2 turbo
ImprezaS: 332 BHP - 1100 kg - 546 PP - 94.3% - stage 1 turbo
 
IforceV8
MR-S----: 315 BHP - 1125 kg - 531 PP - 100% - stock
Celica---: 314 BHP - 1050 kg - 538 PP - 97.6% - stock
Garaiya S: 329 BHP - 1125 kg - 535 PP - 98.3% - stock
Garaiya P: 334 BHP - 1175 kg - 530 PP - 95.0% - stock
RX7 P---: 322 BHP - 1100 kg - 528 PP - 95.5% - stock
RX7 S---: 327 BHP - 1100 kg - 530 PP - 97.5% - stock
IS350---: 352 BHP - 1150 kg - 548 PP - 94.7% - stage 3 engine tuning
ImprezaP: 344 BHP - 1100 kg - 548 PP - 97.2% - stage 2 turbo
ImprezaS: 332 BHP - 1100 kg - 546 PP - 94.3% - stage 1 turbo
Click to expand...

Thanks. 👍
Just PM'd TwistedFirework, if you guys can give me lap times you got at these specs, it'd be much appreciated. Whatever tracks and cars/laps you've got. :cheers:

I plan to run all of them at Laguna Seca in the next 36 hours sometime. (unless one of you has already done Laguna, then I'll pick a different track not driven)
 
I will run them all at spa tonight. The one thing I could do with is any setups that last seasons drivers may have. Scanny, paulmac, mh4, masi, litchi. Any help with your settings from last season will speed things up. Nothing to detailed, just suspension and camber settings. Cheers
 
CSLACR
Thanks. 👍
Just PM'd TwistedFirework, if you guys can give me lap times you got at these specs, it'd be much appreciated. Whatever tracks and cars/laps you've got. :cheers:

I plan to run all of them at Laguna Seca in the next 36 hours sometime. (unless one of you has already done Laguna, then I'll pick a different track not driven)
Click to expand...

I just got grip glitched from RX7-TC race :mad: :(

So instead I am going to take all the GT300 cars for a stint around Suzuka.

Anyone feel free to join 1472-6118-4130-9225-7364
 
cicua
I just got grip glitched from RX7-TC race :mad: :(

So instead I am going to take all the GT300 cars for a stint around Suzuka.

Anyone feel free to join 1472-6118-4130-9225-7364
Click to expand...
Watching the kid makes serious driving hard to do, but please do post up or PM the lap times you get.👍

I think Twisted is testing too, maybe you guys can hook up? (not like that, unless you want to, of course) :D
 
I have run 4 cars so far:

Garaiya '08
IS350
MR-S
Celica

15 laps at Suzuka, with tyre wear. All cars run to the latest specs, and besides that with stock setup, except for the MR-S I raised the tranny's max speed from 260 to 280 km/h, else it practically redlines in 6th.

The cars are remarkably equal. Even though I am not the most consistent, and some laps contain mistakes, the times are within 2 secs after 10 laps.

The big difference may be in tyre wear. Garaiya and Celica still do 2.11 on lap 15 (compared to 2.06 at best), while the other two are shot after lap 13. But 1) I may have driven them wrong, I know the Garaiya and Celica better, 2) it might not mean much; losing 5s per lap quickly makes a pit stop the better choice anyway.

The other big difference may lie in how much better the cars can become when tuned, but without canonical tunes available for each car that is impossible to test.

Actually I am tempted to go with the MR-S, it is fun to drive, and not as difficult as I thought. And it is ugly, but it is not me who will be looking at it :)
 
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A good basic tip for tuning, for anyone testing not into extensive tuning during testing. I don't do extensive tuning for testing myself, just these basic things to sort out the over steer and under steer that some cars have at default settings.

Full aero is a duh I guess. (we're looking at fixed specs for GT300, for time and ease)

Transmission: Set it to default, then set the top speed slider down to minimum. After doing this, move the final gear left until the gears are long enough to suit the track.
You don't have to play with the individual gears, simply doing this 3-step trick will keep results more level with what people will drive during the season.

LSD: How do you like it? I've not found any need for very different settings on any of the same type of car, on the same tires. For example, I run 7/11/5 on every GT500 I test. You may like a high LSD, maybe 11/45/25, that's fine also, you should be able to use a generalized setting.

Suspension: This is the only tricky one at all. I use default GT4 camber on pretty much everything, for testing and racing, on all tracks.

Camber: 2.0/1.0

Toe: 0.00/0.00 On everything, seriously.

Ride Height: I usually run max.(+), because it's much easier to nail down consistent laps for testing with max settings. I use this often to sort over/under steer when springs won't do the job enough. On an over steering car like the NSX, I'll run +5/+10, on an under steering car like the Denso SC430, I'll run +13/+8. Just find where the car is turning nicely, but isn't swinging the rear out, making it hard to get solid laps down.

Springs: I typically run mid-range to high, 15.0ish each. Stiffness is up to you, the only thing you need to know is a stiffer front then rear will help reduce under steer, vice verse for over steer.

Shocks: I almost always set these the same, like springs, sitffness is up to what you like. I typically run 7/7ish on all 4.

Anti roll bar: Typically 5/5ish

I do have a detailed list in the link in my sig, that says "a garage with tunes and stuff", just scroll below the picture to find it.
 
Thanks. That's a great help. The couple of cars I am struggling to tame, I will follow this guide and try again.
Has anyone tried the specs? What's your thoughts? Which car needs improving or slowing down?
 
I think CSLACR wrote an excellent "beginners tuning guide" above. If you don't know anything about tuning, use that one.

There is only one thing I like to add and its to the ridehight.

Ride Height: I usually run max.(+), because it's much easier to nail down consistent laps for testing with max settings. I use this often to sort over/under steer when springs won't do the job enough. On an over steering car like the NSX, I'll run +5/+10, on an under steering car like the Denso SC430, I'll run +13/+8. Just find where the car is turning nicely, but isn't swinging the rear out, making it hard to get solid laps down.

- If you find your car having understeer, lower the rear ridehight one step at a time.
- If you find your car having oversteer, lower the front ridehight one step at a time.

With this added to CSLACR "beginners tuning guide", your tuning will not be that far off the experts. When you think your ready for more complex tuning, start to work with the LSD and learn how it works.
 
CSLACR
A good basic tip for tuning, for anyone testing not into extensive tuning during testing. I don't do extensive tuning for testing myself, just these basic things to sort out the over steer and under steer that some cars have at default settings.

Full aero is a duh I guess. (we're looking at fixed specs for GT300, for time and ease)

Transmission: Set it to default, then set the top speed slider down to minimum. After doing this, move the final gear left until the gears are long enough to suit the track.
You don't have to play with the individual gears, simply doing this 3-step trick will keep results more level with what people will drive during the season.

LSD: How do you like it? I've not found any need for very different settings on any of the same type of car, on the same tires. For example, I run 7/11/5 on every GT500 I test. You may like a high LSD, maybe 11/45/25, that's fine also, you should be able to use a generalized setting.

Suspension: This is the only tricky one at all. I use default GT4 camber on pretty much everything, for testing and racing, on all tracks.

Camber: 2.0/1.0

Toe: 0.00/0.00 On everything, seriously.

Ride Height: I usually run max.(+), because it's much easier to nail down consistent laps for testing with max settings. I use this often to sort over/under steer when springs won't do the job enough. On an over steering car like the NSX, I'll run +5/+10, on an under steering car like the Denso SC430, I'll run +13/+8. Just find where the car is turning nicely, but isn't swinging the rear out, making it hard to get solid laps down.

Springs: I typically run mid-range to high, 15.0ish each. Stiffness is up to you, the only thing you need to know is a stiffer front then rear will help reduce under steer, vice verse for over steer.

Shocks: I almost always set these the same, like springs, sitffness is up to what you like. I typically run 7/7ish on all 4.

Anti roll bar: Typically 5/5ish

I do have a detailed list in the link in my sig, that says "a garage with tunes and stuff", just scroll below the picture to find it.
Click to expand...

Copy-paste. 👍
 
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