Guiding a Drag Noob
- Thread starter GT4me
- 17 comments
- 1,241 views
dr_slump
Premium
- 7,425
- Switzerland
- the_dr_slump / GTP_dr_slump
dr_slump
Premium
- 7,425
- Switzerland
- the_dr_slump / GTP_dr_slump
I'll catch up! Definitely!You'll get there lol
Onboy123
Premium
- 8,872
- Hong Kong
- Onboy123
I guess i'm on my own then.
Not quite. While you can't join a team to tune with, try 'friend'-ing a few of the top drag guys on GTP and run with them when both sides are on. If you ask nice enough, they might just give you a few hints on what to do. And on the very rare occasion, they might even send a part of the tune over.
- 1,079
- Australia,SA
- d24689
Don't feel sorry for yourself because nobody care's but ill help You out ok?. If You need tune's for drag check out grease monkey engineering or doctor slump's car ambulance. A few tip's for indy are make sure your suspension is at the right height for the pillow affect and never lower the back end to much, keep your gear's very close and set your final gear to your desired top speed in the top right corner. For tunnel tuning there are alot of different way's to tune, play with the height alot and never go to the extreme ay lowering one side all the way. Make sure your gear's are close also but keep some distance apart for the top speed You need, use the tranny trick if You will call it that and put your final all the way to the right put your top speed all the way to the left then bring your final gear back to the desired top speed again and depending on what car You will need to play around a bit to find the right top speed ok. I hope i could help and Thats a few tips from D2 at grease monkey engineering. :-)
👍
Onboy123
Premium
- 8,872
- Hong Kong
- Onboy123
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
Drag stuff is 90% bashing your head against the wall, 9% having the will to keep doing that, and 1% success.
It'll get easier once we get timed drag runs, should result in actually being able to see whether you've improved anything. Trap speed alone is not a good indicator (you can be down on trap speed and roflstomp everything on launch, or you can be way up on trap speed and still lose due to launch and midrange problems).
It'll get easier once we get timed drag runs, should result in actually being able to see whether you've improved anything. Trap speed alone is not a good indicator (you can be down on trap speed and roflstomp everything on launch, or you can be way up on trap speed and still lose due to launch and midrange problems).
- 34,949
- Indian Falls, NY
- slashfan7964
Got that right. It's a pain in the *** but that's why it's fun =P
This is smart. Step 1; Zero-Out your equipment.
After 0, Lower the Trans to it's MINIMUM Enginered MPH/kmh.
THEN: Start LOWERING the number-value of the Third-Member(Final Gear in GT5)
-- until your final speed matches the track-course you're attempting. There's no point wasting math if the craft can't move through air beyond 200MPH.
+A "Third-Member" is the Ring-Gear and Pinion interfacing within a differential- the piece that looks like a Pumpkin. It distributes the shaft-torque from the Drive-Shaft to the splines of the Axle-Shafts and eventually the Rubber.
The lower the Final Gear- the more TORQUE REQUIRED.
reductions below 2.000 should be considered DIRECT-DRIVE.
The higher the Final- more TORQUE IS APPLIED.
reductions above 3.700 would require larger tires to apply more immense forces against gravity.
After 0, Lower the Trans to it's MINIMUM Enginered MPH/kmh.
THEN: Start LOWERING the number-value of the Third-Member(Final Gear in GT5)
-- until your final speed matches the track-course you're attempting. There's no point wasting math if the craft can't move through air beyond 200MPH.
+A "Third-Member" is the Ring-Gear and Pinion interfacing within a differential- the piece that looks like a Pumpkin. It distributes the shaft-torque from the Drive-Shaft to the splines of the Axle-Shafts and eventually the Rubber.
The lower the Final Gear- the more TORQUE REQUIRED.
reductions below 2.000 should be considered DIRECT-DRIVE.
The higher the Final- more TORQUE IS APPLIED.
reductions above 3.700 would require larger tires to apply more immense forces against gravity.
