Help me out!

Welcome to GTPlanet.

Gah. Why do you want to drag an FWD car? It's contrary to the nature of the thing. Dragging a FWD car is one thing in real life, if it's all you can afford. I've done it. But in GT4 when a few races will give you the cash for an AWD or RWD beast, why would you want to drag something as handicapped as a FWD car? I'm just asking, that's all.

But if you must do it, look for something light with a long wheelbase, like an Integra Type R.
 
Duke
Welcome to GTPlanet.

Gah. Why do you want to drag an FWD car? It's contrary to the nature of the thing. Dragging a FWD car is one thing in real life, if it's all you can afford. I've done it. But in GT4 when a few races will give you the cash for an AWD or RWD beast, why would you want to drag something as handicapped as a FWD car? I'm just asking, that's all.

But if you must do it, look for something light with a long wheelbase, like an Integra Type R.

Well, im having a tuner shoot out with a friend for a FF car in 2 aspects, Drag and Track, With Settings A and B to change between drag and track. Credits is not an Issue. I have bought a civic si with every option on it and i can only achieve 13s on the drag. and a 450 hp SRT-4 with 13s on the drag aswell. So i was wondering what a good setting for those cars are or if i should go with another car such as an Integra.

thanks
 
DoriftoKing
Well, im having a tuner shoot out with a friend for a FF car in 2 aspects, Drag and Track, With Settings A and B to change between drag and track. Credits is not an Issue. I have bought a civic si with every option on it and i can only achieve 13s on the drag. and a 450 hp SRT-4 with 13s on the drag aswell. So i was wondering what a good setting for those cars are or if i should go with another car such as an Integra.

thanks

The only thing that I can think of for a drag racing FF is that you may want to add some weight to the front of the car to ensure that the front wheels don't loose traction... Then you may also want to add a bit more downforce to the front (I know it's drag and it's a short distance, but by the end of the strip, it'll keep more weight on the front wheels as well). And if I were going to use a car to drag with and I had any at my disposal, I'd use the French Rally car as my horse...
 
Canadian Speed
The only thing that I can think of for a drag racing FF is that you may want to add some weight to the front of the car to ensure that the front wheels don't loose traction... Then you may also want to add a bit more downforce to the front (I know it's drag and it's a short distance, but by the end of the strip, it'll keep more weight on the front wheels as well). And if I were going to use a car to drag with and I had any at my disposal, I'd use the French Rally car as my horse...

it has to be under 30,000 purchase.
Ive put all the weight in the front, close gear ratios and everything all i can achieve is 13 seconds! whats going on!!!
 
DoriftoKing
it has to be under 30,000 purchase.
Ive put all the weight in the front, close gear ratios and everything all i can achieve is 13 seconds! whats going on!!!

Hmmm... I'm not sure dude... TCS okay... not slipping too much? Using Super Soft racers? Other then these things, I'm not sure... Drag and FF's are both not my strong points...
 
Canadian Speed
Hmmm... I'm not sure dude... TCS okay... not slipping too much? Using Super Soft racers? Other then these things, I'm not sure... Drag and FF's are both not my strong points...

thanks for the help though, i did manage to get my type r to run low a low 11.
Ill just keep tinkering around
Cheers. 👍
 
I forgot about the SRT. That's what I'd run.

What's going on is that you are wasting time spinning the front tires, because launch weight transfer is working against you instead of for you in a FWD car. Or else, if you're running high TCS settings, it's putting the brakes on to stop you from spinning the front tires. That's why I recommended against it.

Lower the car all the way, both ends, and stiffen up the rear suspension all the way. Leave the front fairly soft, because wheel hop is not modelled in the game. Start with the default front spring settings, and move the front rebound to all the way soft (lowest number). Run the softest tires you can in front and the hardest tires you can in back.

Try launching in second gear - idle as you wait for the count, and just after the '1' disappears, punch it. If you time it right the revs will be coming up when the timer lets the brakes go, so you won't overwhelm the front tires right away but you'll make good power once it rolls.

Adjust your transmission so that you maybe use 2-3-4 during a pass. Tighten your ratios all the way down and then adjust the final drive as necessary. You may find a slightly taller final drive (smaller numbers) will help with maintain traction, and if you can get decent acceleration with a minimum of shifts, all the better. Definitely put the racing clutch and flywheel on the car for fast, solid shifts.
 
on the whole launching from 2nd gear, i haven't tested this in an FF, but i found that making 1st gear as tall as possible (with custom gears) tends to lead to a better launch as the car won't bog. So if you can arrange your gears so that you are topping out in 3rd at the end you should be alright. Try both methods, whichever works best use.

Oh and on TCS, test settings 0, 1 and 2, i find one of those usually gives the best starts.

Another thing to consider, i usually find that despite a slight gain in HP, cars tend to benefit from methods other than turbo for boosting power - ie NA, NO2 or supercharging, as these don't have big lag issues. I certainly wouldn't whack a stage 4 on there - stage 3 at most.
 
Ezz777
on the whole launching from 2nd gear, i haven't tested this in an FF, but i found that making 1st gear as tall as possible (with custom gears) tends to lead to a better launch as the car won't bog. So if you can arrange your gears so that you are topping out in 3rd at the end you should be alright. Try both methods, whichever works best use.

Oh and on TCS, test settings 0, 1 and 2, i find one of those usually gives the best starts.

Another thing to consider, i usually find that despite a slight gain in HP, cars tend to benefit from methods other than turbo for boosting power - ie NA, NO2 or supercharging, as these don't have big lag issues. I certainly wouldn't whack a stage 4 on there - stage 3 at most.



for the starting in 2nd gear, ive found that its better to start from 1st then let it redline then switch to second then switch back to first, maybe its me, but in arcade mode with sports tires it rocks.

im not sure about the powerband or w/e of the cars, but if u make a really long first gear, like the toyota f1 minda car, maybe thatll help.



djaft3rb3ats
 
djaft3rb3ats
for the starting in 2nd gear, ive found that its better to start from 1st then let it redline then switch to second then switch back to first, maybe its me, but in arcade mode with sports tires it rocks.

Try just leaving it in 1st and lifting off the throttle for a bit to let the tires grip, this will prove quicker than doing two shifts (up and down). The other option is just to increase TCS a notch.
 
yeah, i noe about those too, but in arcade, lol, its too funny watching my friend play to think of any technical things. i use the ds2 for arcade and not the dfp, i use the dfp for the regular mode


thanks though



djaft3rb3ats
 
I actually prefer to have big turbo lag in a FWD car, at least in real life. It gives the car a chance to get rolling before it comes on boost, so you don't overwhelm your traction at the moment of launch.
 
Get a Honda Civic SIR from the year 91 to 95 the Hatchback. and set it up good and the gears and you can run between 11 and 12 sec 1/4 mile.
 
thats pretty whack duke, gj. i never really thought about it that way. turbo lag equal delay in full power thus wont have tire spin, am i correct?



sanjko, can u post the settings for us for the civic? thanks



djaft3rb3ats
 
djaft3rb3ats
thats pretty whack duke, gj. i never really thought about it that way. turbo lag equal delay in full power thus wont have tire spin, am i correct?
That's the point, since the car launches not making full boost, you get a little momentum going and so when the boost comes in all the way, you effectively have a rolling start and fewer traction issues in a FWD car. You've got it.

Now, for a RWD or AWD car, you want to be making full boost right away, because your traction is being helped by the launch, not hurt. I've seen a GM Typhoon (turbo AWD version of the older S10-based SUV) leave the line like a ball bearing out of a Wrist Rocket. With AWD and an automatic transmission he could pre-load the engine against the brakes, building up lots of boost, and it would just snap off the line unbelievably.
 
o damn, fo reals, thats crazy. i would love to see that, a suv-like car boostin off the track at high speeds. u got a link to a vid (if there is one?)



djaft3rb3ats
 
Back