Help!

[cn11]

I just got GT4 and my PS2 a couple weeks ago believe it or not, and am hopelessly addicted!

Question: How in the heck do you apply the chassis refresh after you've purchased the plan in the tune shop? I have searched all over the game, and can't seem to find it. I have the Bently race car, and after a few events it has become unmanageable in the long straights where you get up in the 230mph range. It just starts wobbling like crazy. I've searched the forums here, but the search is pretty weird in how it works so I've had no luck finding anything that explains how to use it.

Thanks in advance!

 

[daan]

You don't need to apply it. It's done when you buy it.

 

[cn11]

OK, so how do I correct the bad wobble that the Bentley has developed? I can't go back and re-purchase the chassis refresh.... and I've tried all my race adjustable settings in just about every configuration, as well as orig. settings, and the wobble is always present. It's a high speed wobble, when above 220 or so.

Thanks, and sorry if this is redundant stuff.

 

[Leonidae]

The wobble exists in most of the race cars, especially in the older Le Mans prototypes. It is possible to tone it down a bit, but you can't get it completely off.

 

[cn11]

Yeah, I'm starting to figure that out! But the Bentley R8 started out so smooth in straight line high speed, and it went south really quick. I did some more digging, and found this post about high speed wobble.... The settings below helped quite a bit on the race cars I have. But man, the Minolta Toyota is really a beast at high speed no matter what.



Apr 07 2005, 10:45 PM #11
Quote:
Originally Posted by happyperson
How should I fix the camber/toe or bound/rebound settings? Does it also matter that I lowered the ride height all the way and stiffened the springs completely?
Yeah, I would loosen the springs, and heighten the car. I'll give you the setup I have on it right now. I tried it at Le Mans 2 (no chicanes) just now and it's not too shabby.

Springs 12,5 14,5
Height 60 60
Damper bounce 7 7
Damper rebound 9 9
Camber 2,5 1,5
Toe -1 +2
Stabiliser 4 5

Try it out and see if that helps. Tweak and test and tweak some more, until you have a ride you like.

Stian

 

[Parnelli Bone]

Yeah, I'm starting to figure that out! But the Bentley R8 started out so smooth in straight line high speed, and it went south really quick. I did some more digging, and found this post about high speed wobble.... The settings below helped quite a bit on the race cars I have. But man, the Minolta Toyota is really a beast at high speed no matter what.



Apr 07 2005, 10:45 PM #11
Quote:
Originally Posted by happyperson
How should I fix the camber/toe or bound/rebound settings? Does it also matter that I lowered the ride height all the way and stiffened the springs completely?
Yeah, I would loosen the springs, and heighten the car. I'll give you the setup I have on it right now. I tried it at Le Mans 2 (no chicanes) just now and it's not too shabby.

Springs 12,5 14,5
Height 60 60
Damper bounce 7 7
Damper rebound 9 9
Camber 2,5 1,5
Toe -1 +2
Stabiliser 4 5

Try it out and see if that helps. Tweak and test and tweak some more, until you have a ride you like.

Stian

Wow, look guys! A new member who actually searched for some advice! 👍 +REP

 

[RzB]

LOL...

Funny all my LM/Class C cars are so stable only 8:00 hours into the 24 hour races do they ever start to really bug me XD

Just raise the spring rate very high to like 18 or 19 and adjust the stabilzers up higher...(remember when above 180mph don't make sudden turns XD)

 

[mafia_boy]

@ Parnelli. It's so rare to find a new member of this calibre, to actually find the search function, use it, find stuff and retrieve it!! :tup:

cn11, here's a couple of quick tips for you regarding chassis refreshing dude:

1. If you have a used car and work it completely, apply the body restore BEFORE you fit the roll cage. By doing this you will get your chassis back to a new car state, then fit the roll cage for maximum stiffness.

2. If it's a 0.0km or 10.0km car, then apply the roll cage as one of your first modifications if you want to.

3. Not all cars like roll cages. Some need to have that body flex to actually allow it to turn better. We found this to be the case in developing cars for a few Tuner Cups.

Experiment and have fun with it all.

 

[VTiRoj]

I'm not sure if your aware of this cn11, but after you've driven a car for long enough, you will need to refresh the chassis again. You'll know when to do this because the refresher plan is purchaseable again in the tuning shop.

Just saying because it hasn't been mentioned yet.

 

[cn11]

I'm not sure if your aware of this cn11, but after you've driven a car for long enough, you will need to refresh the chassis again. You'll know when to do this because the refresher plan is purchaseable again in the tuning shop.

Just saying because it hasn't been mentioned yet.

Ah! thanks! This really helps. About how many miles do you have to have on the car for the refresh become available again? I want the Bentley to be smooth as glass again! Is this one of the cars that doesn't agree with the roll cage? Also, I always have hit the chassis refresh after the roll cage since it is next in the progression. I want that Bentley smoooootttthhhh again... I so love racing it on El Capitan. I think that is my favorite course. So much fun.

 

[daan]

Also, I always have hit the chassis refresh after the roll cage since it is next in the progression.

I think you've killed your Bentley...

1. If you have a used car and work it completely, apply the body restore BEFORE you fit the roll cage. By doing this you will get your chassis back to a new car state, then fit the roll cage for maximum stiffness.

Fitting the rollcage on a body that needs restoring/refreshing, will "lock it" in the needing restored position. No amount of restoring/refreshing will sort it.

 

[VTiRoj]

My Impreza wagon went after just over 300 miles. I think it varies a bit though, I haven't done any proper tests or seen any proper tests being done.

How about fitting a rollcage on a new car? When it needs a chassis refresh would it be "locked" in that state no matter what or is it fine after the refresh? If it is locked, my NSX-R is so done for.

 

[cn11]

Fitting the rollcage on a body that needs restoring/refreshing, will "lock it" in the needing restored position. No amount of restoring/refreshing will sort it.

I've always just gone and installed the roll cage and got the chassis refresh (albeit after the roll cage) when the car is new. Does this sequence have any negative implications? Should you not get either of these until later, when the car has miles on it?

Now I've done some races with the F1 car, and it's developing a bad high speed wobble. There were no options for any chassis refresh, or roll cage with this one as you all know. So how to correct it on this car? Win another one? Ugh!

...sorry if this stuff is all redundant to these boards, but I just started playing GT4 a couple weeks ago and am still learning.

 

[Open Addict]

...Now I've done some races with the F1 car, and it's developing a bad high speed wobble. There were no options for any chassis refresh, or roll cage with this one as you all know. So how to correct it on this car? Win another one? Ugh!...

There is no shop for the F1 car (so you cannot buy anything for it, Which includes oil change) because there is no degradation on the F1 car. If it has developed a wobble then it would be the settings you have put on the car.

Allthough alot of the high speed cars do have wobbles (especially when using a wheel) great test for this is the Nissan 240mp/h Licence test IA16 (if my memory serves me) you really have to grip the wheel with this beast.

 

[mafia_boy]

1. If you have a used car and work it completely,apply the body restore BEFORE you fit the roll cage. By doing this you will get your chassis back to a new car state, then fit the roll cage for maximum stiffness.

Fitting the rollcage on a body that needs restoring/refreshing, will "lock it" in the needing restored position. No amount of restoring/refreshing will sort it.

Exactly Daan. 👍 If you do roll cage first then it locks the chassis state at that point and whatever time you do the body restore only restores it back to the rollcage point rather than become a new chassis again. I found that out after doing a couple of used cars when I started.

 

[cn11]

Exactly Daan. 👍 If you do roll cage first then it locks the chassis state at that point and whatever time you do the body restore only restores it back to the rollcage point rather than become a new chassis again. I found that out after doing a couple of used cars when I started.

I see... I'm also starting to think that the race cars don't do so well with the roll cage anyway. On any new ones I'm going to leave the roll cage off, but get the chassis refresh. Hopefully that'll keep them more manageable in the straights. I just got a new Audi R8 race car, didn't get the roll cage, but did get chassis refresh, and will see how it ages after some races. I guess with the F1 car you just have to hold onto the wheel for dear life. Thankfully two of my favorite cars, the Mercedes CLK-GTR race car and the Toyota Minolta race car are pretty quick to win over and over if need be.

 

[mafia_boy]

You don't need to chassis refresh a new car (0.0km or 10.0km). But you only have to go a few hundred miles before you need to refresh it again.

 

[Open Addict]

I just got GT4 and my PS2 a couple weeks ago believe it or not, and am hopelessly addicted!

Question: How in the heck do you apply the chassis refresh after you've purchased the plan in the tune shop? I have searched all over the game, and can't seem to find it. I have the Bently race car, and after a few events it has become unmanageable in the long straights where you get up in the 230mph range. It just starts wobbling like crazy. I've searched the forums here, but the search is pretty weird in how it works so I've had no luck finding anything that explains how to use it.

Thanks in advance!

A funny thing happend to me when racing the 24hr Sarthe 1 in the mazda 787b. It started out being a dog of a car after the chassis refresh but after approx 12 hours in to the race (when every one else says the cars get worse) mine started to get better.

The chassis actually came to the rest of the settings i had on the car. I even posted the fastest lap 23 & 1/2 hours in to the race.

Maybe you could driv ethe bently a while longer and see if it starts to come to you again.

 

[Chiroke]

Help. Actualy i got a question.
I did the 24h at the "Ring" got my F1 car. I did it again and it is asking me to clear records to play the 24h at the "ring" again.
Does it clear your garge too (all the car you've won)??.
'Cause what i'm trying to do is collect as many of the F1 car as possible.
Can someone clarify this??
Thanx

 

[Famine]

No, it doesn't clear your garage.

 

[Parnelli Bone]

Help. Actualy i got a question.
I did the 24h at the "Ring" got my F1 car. I did it again and it is asking me to clear records to play the 24h at the "ring" again.
Does it clear your garge too (all the car you've won)??.
'Cause what i'm trying to do is collect as many of the F1 car as possible.
Can someone clarify this??
Thanx

It does not clear your garage.

It only asks you if you want to clear your record so you can win any prizes over again.

If you select "No, don't clear", you can still run the race, and you'll win money, but no prize car.

If you select "Yes, I want to clear", you now have the ability to win a prize car again as well as money...problem is, if you don't win, you're now stuck--and you'll have to do the race over again because not only do you not have the prize you wanted, but you also will have to win the race again so it will apply towards your Total Percentage of races won. Understand?

 

[alhajoth]

If you select "Yes, i want to clear", you now have the ability to win a prize car again as well as money...problem is, if you don't win, you're now stuck--and you'll have to do the race over again because not only do you not have the prize you wanted, but you also will have to win the race again so it will apply towards your Total Percentage of races won. Understand?

That's not correct, it will NOT remove the percentage from your total. Selecting 'Yes' will only remove the trophy next to the race, a purely visual effect, and allow you to win the prize-car again. If you've won the race once, clearing the records has no effect on your percentage, the game remembers the first time you won it.

 

[Open Addict]

It does not clear your garage.

It only asks you if you want to clear your record so you can win any prizes over again.

If you select "No, don't clear", you can still run the race, and you'll win money, but no prize car.

If you select "Yes, i want to clear", you now have the ability to win a prize car again as well as money...problem is, if you don't win, you're now stuck--and you'll have to do the race over again because not only do you not have the prize you wanted, but you also will have to win the race again so it will apply towards your Total Percentage of races won. Understand?

That's not correct, it will NOT remove the percentage from your total. Selecting 'Yes' will only remove the trophy next to the race, a purely visual effect, and allow you to win the prize-car again. If you've won the race once, clearing the records has no effect on your percentage, the game remembers the first time you won it.

However if you run the race again and lose, It will affect, obviously, your win ratio %

 

[Parnelli Bone]

However if you run the race again and lose, It will affect, obviously, your win ratio %

Hah! That's what I meant to say...thank you.