Here are settings for the Mercedes SLR McLaren '03, feedback appreciated

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DuckRacer

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Here is my set-up that I tuned for the Mercedes SLR
mclaren.gif
. It's fully modified with the best parts, including the rollcage, without nitrous, and uses Sports Medium tires. It also gave 1'09.702 on Midfield.
Suspension
-Spring Rate: 16.0 / 15.5
-Ride Height: 98 / 128
-Bound: 5 / 5
-Rebound: 7 / 7
-Camber: 2.0 / 1.5
-Toe: 0 / -2
-Stabilizers: 4 / 3

LSD
-Initial: 7
-Acceleration: 20
-Deceleration: 15

Driving Aids
-ASM Oversteer: 0
-ASM Understeer: 0
-TCS: 3

Brake Controller
-Brakes: 3 / 6

Transmission
Autoset 10.

Ballast
-Weight: 0
-Location:0


This is also my first independent set-up, and I will appreciate feedback on whether it is good or not, and what can be improved on.

© Duck7892
 
Duck7892
Here is my set-up that I tuned for the Mercedes SLR
mclaren.gif
. It's fully modified with the best parts, including the rollcage, and uses Sports Medium tires. It also gave 1'17 on Deep Forest.

Suspension
-Spring Rate: 15.6 / 16.4
-Ride Height: 98 / 104
-Bound: 6 / 7
-Rebound: 6 / 8
-Camber: 2.3 / 1.6
-Toe: 0 / 1
-Stabilizers: 2 / 3

LSD
-Initial: 15
-Acceleration: 20
-Deceleration: 5

Driving Aids
-ASM Oversteer: 0
-ASM Understeer: 5
-TCS: 5

Brake Controller
-Brakes: 5 / 5

Transmission
1. Slide "Final" all the way to 5.000.
2. Slide Autoset to 1.
3. Then slide "Final" to 3.690.
This is the tranny trick, and this is a good base for tuning your transmission for each track.


Without tuning, it steers and brakes like a pig. These settings give slight throttle oversteer when cornering (not enough to spin out). The braking is a bit better, but you still need to brake early.

This is also my first independent set-up, and I will appreciate feedback on whether it is good or not, and what can be improved on.

Duck7892
not bad at all.i worked on this car but what ever i was doing i just kept geting it wrong.i should have stuck with it but i must have been having 1 of my lazy days.
good solid ride.
 
gtsr
not bad at all.i worked on this car but what ever i was doing i just kept geting it wrong.i should have stuck with it but i must have been having 1 of my lazy days.
good solid ride.
Thanks for your input, gtsr.
Has anyone else tried this yet?

Duck7892
 
I cannot test your settings directly because every time I use asm it feels like I am playing with ski gloves on. They look pretty good in general, but I could reccomend you try to group the springs and dampers a little more closely. It may just be me, but it seems like GT version 4 prioritizes balance above any other attribute, so any time you can have the front and rear close to the same setting is a time you are less likely to lose control; the two exceptions being ride height and camber...
This tune did 1'15.556 on sport mediums, with, of course, no nitrous augmentation.

brakes 5/5
spring 14.5/15.1
height 110/150
bound 7/8
rebound 8/9
camber 2.9/1.8
stabilizer 3/3
auto 11
asm/o 0
asm/u 0
tcs 3
lsd 6/24/14
 
Okay, I tested out your settings and they're pretty good. However, for me at least, it understeers and runs into the grass. I guess it's just driving styles.

Duck7892
 
Duck7892
Okay, I tested out your settings and they're pretty good. However, for me at least, it understeers and runs into the grass. I guess it's just driving styles.

Duck7892
Yes, it is very pushy, should be good for 2 player, that is, if you, like me, beileve the physics is different in arcade :dopey:
 
Duck7892
Here is my set-up that I tuned for the Mercedes SLR
mclaren.gif
. It's fully modified with the best parts, including the rollcage, without nitrous, and uses Sports Medium tires. It also gave 1'15.449 on Deep Forest.

Suspension
-Spring Rate: 15.6 / 16.4
-Ride Height: 98 / 104
-Bound: 6 / 7
-Rebound: 6 / 8
-Camber: 2.3 / 1.6
-Toe: 0 / 1
-Stabilizers: 2 / 3

LSD
-Initial: 15
-Acceleration: 20
-Deceleration: 5

Driving Aids
-ASM Oversteer: 0
-ASM Understeer: 5
-TCS: 3

Brake Controller
-Brakes: 5 / 5

Transmission
1. Slide "Final" all the way to 5.000.
2. Slide Autoset to 1.
3. Then slide "Final" to 3.690.
This is the tranny trick, and this is a good base for tuning your transmission for each track.

Ballast
-Weight: 0
-Location:0

For those who don't use ASM, change the brake settings to 5 / 9, toe to -1 / -3, camber to 2.8 / 2.0, and the rear ride height to 150. And, of course, turn of ASM. With this, I got a laptime of 1'16.013 at Deep Forest.

Without tuning, it steers and brakes like a pig. These settings give slight throttle oversteer when cornering (not enough to spin out). The braking is a bit better, but you still need to brake early.

This is also my first independent set-up, and I will appreciate feedback on whether it is good or not, and what can be improved on.

Duck7892

I like it, but I've brought the camber down 1.5/.5 to help with breaking
I've also brought up the breaks to 11/13, plan you breaking a bit sooner and this'll help save those tires.

With the toe 1/0 and LSD 05/12/05. If find this makes it stear pretty tight and stable. I also brought up ASMs both to 1. I found the 5 to be a bit to restricting, but that's a persoanl thing.

Good tune over all. Keep up the good work. Remember, tuning is a persoanl thing. What works for me (a button masher) may not work for a finness driver with the wheel or one who uses the 2nd stick for the accelorator and breaks. Later
 
Canadian Speed
I like it, but I've brought the camber down 1.5/.5 to help with breaking
I've also brought up the breaks to 11/13, plan you breaking a bit sooner and this'll help save those tires.
Umm hmm, I'm guessing there might be some conjecture going on here. It should be universally agreed upon by everyone that studies these things, that while adjusting the slider from minimal, braking ability increases to a point then reduces. The mechanical reason for this would be simple; you couldn't generate "brake induced oversteer (or understeer)" without breaking traction at one wheel pair. The only possible way you could generate "brake induced oversteer" (kind of like a built-in parking brake) is the same way the E-brake users do it, by breaking traction at the rear so it slides through the arc of the turn thus lining up with the exit. So, to set brakes higher than optimal would indeed reduce braking ability, but at the expense of actually overwhelming the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) which would cause the rear tires to slide. Have you actually measured the amount of tire you save by INCREASING the brake slider? I didn't think do.
A similar condition applies to the camber settings, but I think for a different reason. I stand ready to be corrected on this, but by my understanding, wheels are canted or "cambered" to compensate for an arc-like loading of the suspension, in such a way that when the car is fully engaged in the turn the contact patch is as square and laterally supportive as possible. The converse being that the car is not as well linerally "supported" while on the straightaway (imagine the car riding on the inside corners of its tires because they are canted like this: / \ ) which usually isn't a problem since there is only one starting line and few Grand Valley style straights where you have to clamp the binders before stuffing it into the turn. This "ideal" or optimal camber should change as one makes adjustments that change suspension travel, but it doesn't. It is developing (at least in my garage) that each car has an optimal camber that is as fixed and unique for it as it's name.
Furthermore, the GT4 physics engine does not distinguish between a straight line contact patch and a cornering contact patch. I discovered this through extensive testing using the first straight at Deep Forest. I found that, while adjusting the camber toward optimal (increasing), braking performance improved. This is counter-intuitive and to me implies the physics engine doesn't actually model the suspension, it simply adds and subtracts values and when your "register" reaches a certain value, it dumps your car into that dynamic.
Additionally, I have seen no evidence of increased tire life while running the same extended race with a car set with less camber (or toe, for that matter); indeed, if you are sliding less on the straights, it is entirely possible you are sliding more in the turns. Again, I think the idea of saving tires through less than optimal camber is conjecture.
Duck7892
rk, I added settings that doesn't use ASM. If you want to try them out and give comments, please do so.

Duck7892
I would say you have done a very good job of nailing the ideal suspension response, the car sticks very well.
I took our Merc to Nurburgring, because it is pretty much the only place I drive these days, I'm learning all the turns. I chose Family Cup and left the slider at default. I knew your set would bottom at Quiddelbacher, but decided to try it as provided. My first impression was that it was even harder to turn than my sluggish set, but it held the road very well, in fact, my run consisted of brilliant snatches on the pavement interspersed with much "truffle hunting". It was pretty hilarious, I would come zooming out of the green, hit the pavement and hook-up, smack the Cien or Speed12 and send it spinning, then hit some bump and go careening of into the fields again, all the while pretty much hanging with the somewhat shattered pack. I left the last of them at the Breitscheid Bridge, the one over the small village at the cut-off to Bonn; and by Karousel (the first concrete hairpin) I had 2 seconds on the pack.
My more boring set turned slightly better, but did not bottom or upset when I would hit the rumble blocks (I am much better at tuning than at driving :dopey: ) and by the Breitscheid Bridge I had my 2 sec's and by Karousel 6.
Bottom line is that I think balance trumps suspension acuity in GT4, but maybe I'm just a poor driver. I find that my early tunes handle the road very well but don't go fast for me, but when I "balance" the settings (meaning make front and rear similar) they handle maybe a little worse but go faster.
 
Thank you very much for your feedback. I'm going to see if I can completely get rid of the ASM settings, balance the settings more, and pull off faster laptimes with it.

Duck7892
 
rk
Umm hmm, I'm guessing there might be some conjecture going on here. It should be universally agreed upon by everyone that studies these things, that while adjusting the slider from minimal, braking ability increases to a point then reduces. The mechanical reason for this would be simple; you couldn't generate "brake induced oversteer (or understeer)" without breaking traction at one wheel pair. The only possible way you could generate "brake induced oversteer" (kind of like a built-in parking brake) is the same way the E-brake users do it, by breaking traction at the rear so it slides through the arc of the turn thus lining up with the exit. So, to set brakes higher than optimal would indeed reduce braking ability, but at the expense of actually overwhelming the ABS (Anti-lock Braking System) which would cause the rear tires to slide. Have you actually measured the amount of tire you save by INCREASING the brake slider? I didn't think do.
A similar condition applies to the camber settings, but I think for a different reason. I stand ready to be corrected on this, but by my understanding, wheels are canted or "cambered" to compensate for an arc-like loading of the suspension, in such a way that when the car is fully engaged in the turn the contact patch is as square and laterally supportive as possible. The converse being that the car is not as well linerally "supported" while on the straightaway (imagine the car riding on the inside corners of its tires because they are canted like this: / \ ) which usually isn't a problem since there is only one starting line and few Grand Valley style straights where you have to clamp the binders before stuffing it into the turn. This "ideal" or optimal camber should change as one makes adjustments that change suspension travel, but it doesn't. It is developing (at least in my garage) that each car has an optimal camber that is as fixed and unique for it as it's name.
Furthermore, the GT4 physics engine does not distinguish between a straight line contact patch and a cornering contact patch. I discovered this through extensive testing using the first straight at Deep Forest. I found that, while adjusting the camber toward optimal (increasing), braking performance improved. This is counter-intuitive and to me implies the physics engine doesn't actually model the suspension, it simply adds and subtracts values and when your "register" reaches a certain value, it dumps your car into that dynamic.
Additionally, I have seen no evidence of increased tire life while running the same extended race with a car set with less camber (or toe, for that matter); indeed, if you are sliding less on the straights, it is entirely possible you are sliding more in the turns. Again, I think the idea of saving tires through less than optimal camber is conjecture.

I would say you have done a very good job of nailing the ideal suspension response, the car sticks very well.
I took our Merc to Nurburgring, because it is pretty much the only place I drive these days, I'm learning all the turns. I chose Family Cup and left the slider at default. I knew your set would bottom at Quiddelbacher, but decided to try it as provided. My first impression was that it was even harder to turn than my sluggish set, but it held the road very well, in fact, my run consisted of brilliant snatches on the pavement interspersed with much "truffle hunting". It was pretty hilarious, I would come zooming out of the green, hit the pavement and hook-up, smack the Cien or Speed12 and send it spinning, then hit some bump and go careening of into the fields again, all the while pretty much hanging with the somewhat shattered pack. I left the last of them at the Breitscheid Bridge, the one over the small village at the cut-off to Bonn; and by Karousel (the first concrete hairpin) I had 2 seconds on the pack.
My more boring set turned slightly better, but did not bottom or upset when I would hit the rumble blocks (I am much better at tuning than at driving :dopey: ) and by the Breitscheid Bridge I had my 2 sec's and by Karousel 6.
Bottom line is that I think balance trumps suspension acuity in GT4, but maybe I'm just a poor driver. I find that my early tunes handle the road very well but don't go fast for me, but when I "balance" the settings (meaning make front and rear similar) they handle maybe a little worse but go faster.

Hey there RK... I'm not going to rip on ya. I'm not ripping on Duck either. It's a great set up he's got going... I hope that's not how I'm coming across. At any rate, the settings I put in acheive many of the same things that are already in the proposed setting, only they do them a bit different and IMO help to save the tires a bit. The lower camber rates I used DO help to stop the car faster, but hurt the steering a bit. I combat the lower steering rate with my settings for the LSD. Now, although faster stopping is acheived with the lower camper angle, tire wear is also on the rise. I used the break settings to help combat this problem. Bassicaly, it stops the same as the origianal setting used by Duck, only it uses less tire life, and it turns quickly and once dirven a few time to get the feel, will allow the use of minimal or no at ASM settings. Later guys... :dopey:
 
rk
brakes 5/8
spring 14.5/15.1
height 108/148
bound 7/8
rebound 8/9
camber 2.7/1.9
stabilizer 4/4
auto 11
asm/o 0
asm/u 0
tcs 3
lsd 5/24/14

I tried using these on my McClaren for the Supercar Challenge, and the braking was incredibly slow and the car understeered a lot. Is that the settings doing that, or was it the sports tires requirement that the Supercar Challenge has making it feel that way?
 
CMcMahon
I tried using these on my McClaren for the Supercar Challenge, and the braking was incredibly slow and the car understeered a lot. Is that the settings doing that, or was it the sports tires requirement that the Supercar Challenge has making it feel that way?

Well... the tires didn't help... that's for sure... How much juice you pushing with your car? If it's maxed, you may want to back off a bit, or add some TCS and see if that helps you out... later
 
CMcMahon
It's maxed, otherwise I'd get dusted in those races. I'll try turning up the TCS a few notches.
I fixed the car. I think the problem was that I was tuning for a specific track. It seems odd that a tighter tune is what I made for a twistier track; the updated tune was set on Nurburgring and I have already edited the original post.
Canadian Speed
The lower camber rates I used DO help to stop the car faster, but hurt the steering a bit.
Are you asserting that lower camber provides a better straight line contact patch in GT4 game physics? If so, could you provide empirical data to support your assertion? Because I have tested the phenomenon extensively on many cars and can list the procedure for an easy test that proves there is an ideal camber setting in GT4 physics for any car regardless if it is going straight or cornering. If you need proof, tell me which race tire equipped car to post the procedure for. Of course, we will accomplish nothing if you are not willing to run the test.
Canadian Speed
...tire wear is also on the rise. I used the break settings to help combat this problem. Bassicaly, it stops the same as the origianal setting used by Duck, only it uses less tire life
Now you seem to be saying that a higher brake setting uses less tire, one could assume by virtue that it stops the car less. We are all on the same page here when I say, "locking the brakes stops the car less than modulating brake pressure, but definately wears the tires out more," aren't we? So again, can you provide empirical data, say 20 laps of B-Spec Bob driving his McLaren at 3X fast forward with brakes at 11 compared to Bob driving those same 20 laps with brakes at 3? With, you know, results: times, tire changes, tire color vs time, etc.
Could you explain the transition from minimum brake force at around 3 to where the tires obviously chatter and smoke at around 20-22?
Finally, I brake as I approach a wall, because if I hit it, something might break; but that's just me.
 
rk
I fixed the car. I think the problem was that I was tuning for a specific track. It seems odd that a tighter tune is what I made for a twistier track; the updated tune was set on Nurburgring and I have already edited the original post.

Are you asserting that lower camber provides a better straight line contact patch in GT4 game physics? If so, could you provide empirical data to support your assertion? Because I have tested the phenomenon extensively on many cars and can list the procedure for an easy test that proves there is an ideal camber setting in GT4 physics for any car regardless if it is going straight or cornering. If you need proof, tell me which race tire equipped car to post the procedure for. Of course, we will accomplish nothing if you are not willing to run the test.Now you seem to be saying that a higher brake setting uses less tire, one could assume by virtue that it stops the car less. We are all on the same page here when I say, "locking the brakes stops the car less than modulating brake pressure, but definately wears the tires out more," aren't we? So again, can you provide empirical data, say 20 laps of B-Spec Bob driving his McLaren at 3X fast forward with brakes at 11 compared to Bob driving those same 20 laps with brakes at 3? With, you know, results: times, tire changes, tire color vs time, etc.
Could you explain the transition from minimum brake force at around 3 to where the tires obviously chatter and smoke at around 20-22?
Finally, I brake as I approach a wall, because if I hit it, something might break; but that's just me.

Hey man, be nice... nobody's throwing punches here. I'm not into the game enough to worry about running tests and making up tests and so on. I'm offering suggestions.

If you read the info line at the bottom of the camber angle settings... they state that lower angles provide more traction for stopping but hinder steering... obviously that's a periphrase... but that is the gist of it. See for yourself. So far it appears to work for me... thought as I've said every single time. Results may change from person to person depending on their style of driving.

As far I can tell from driving around in the game racing... the lower the ABS is set, the sooner my tires wear down. The more I add, keeping in mind the car's balance, the lower the tire wear. Now here's a little example of how I can see this working in real life as well. Do you remember when you were a kid and you were riding your bike? Chances are you had the breaks that worked by stepping back on the peddles right? Well, if that was the case, you probably remember slamming them on and seeing a line of black rubber behind you? Right? Well when you didn't slam the breaks down, or you pulsed them, you wouldn't get that mark right? That rubber mark is tire wear. When setting the ABS, you are not increasing break strength, but how active the ABS becomes... right? In other words, you are setting how much pressure must be applied before the ABS starts pulsing the breaks, preventing them from locking. The settings I use, when applied by themselves may not work very well if the other settings are not used as well. It's like saying that shock bound dosen't work the more you use it and leaving it at that. In part, you're right... if you don't do anything else to the car and you jack the rebound all the way up, it won't help you out in any way. However, if you've taken the time to set up spring rates, ride height, ect... then maybe a higher setting would work for you. That's why I submit various settings when I choose to make a suggestion. It's not like I just go... ride height 80... and leave it at that.

At any rate, we've gotten pretty off topic here. I know that I can get many many laps with many many cars when I set them up in the like fashion. You may be able to do the same using your settings. I'm willing to agree to disagree and leave it at that. I've said my part. Props to you, you know what you're talking about... and when somebody says something that goes against what you've been shown or what you have learn't, or gotten used to, I understand that you want to know how or why. Frankly, if you were here in person, I'd sit down with you and we could chat about it over beer or something. Fact is, I just don't have the time, or the want to site here getting way off topic, when what I'm doing works fine for me and has helped others as well. I dig your tunes for the most part, and I know you've got the goods as well, but man you've got to lighten up there. Later...

P.S. Using big words often means that you're overcompensating or trying to sell something in an attempt to confuse or intimidate people. You should try and explain things as simple as you can in order to get across to the largest group of people you can, as clearly as you can. It's not rocket science here. No scientist present, so drop the act a bit. You've got the skills 👍 , and you've got the lingo 👍 , now get that out to people in a way that dosen't intimidate them (or is intending to do so).
 
Canadian Speed
Hey man, be nice... nobody's throwing punches here. I'm not into the game enough to worry about running tests and making up tests and so on. I'm offering suggestions.
You are right on at least one thing, no one is throwing punches here, although I wouldn't mind some friendly repartee, so long as it is toward the search of information. Apologies to the thread's originator, hopefully he would indulge this "elaboration" of the things discussed in this thread. I, for one, hope to learn something here. About camber, I stand resolute on what I have said. I don't care what the scrolling text at the bottom of the screen says, my attitude about is (because it has been wrong before): treat all the scrolling text as fact until circumstance proves otherwise, then discard it as eye candy. I know, for example, that when my McLaren approaches a certain high speed kink on Nurburgring, if it can't slow on time to make the turn, that I must adjust the camber rather than the brakes. Is there really any other logical reason why increasing the camber would allow it to stop faster? Please don't waste this post by assuming I cannot tell the difference between stopping before the turn and cornering through it faster without stopping so well.
I am very intrigued about your view of the brake balance, I think you express the concept well, I prefer your mechanical description, but I would still like it if you could explain the transitional area at the high end, tires seem to chatter and hop, and that seems to be contrary to what is expected as abs increases to maximum.
Specific words, while less than familiar, are usually more exact in definition. Generalities inhibit the pursuit of truth. Suffice it to say it is not my strong suit, and perhaps it helps to consider me like the eccentric old inventor on the hilltop; you could put up with my behavior just long enough to get the formula, then skedaddle.
 
rk
You are right on at least one thing, no one is throwing punches here, although I wouldn't mind some friendly repartee, so long as it is toward the search of information. Apologies to the thread's originator, hopefully he would indulge this "elaboration" of the things discussed in this thread. I, for one, hope to learn something here. About camber, I stand resolute on what I have said. I don't care what the scrolling text at the bottom of the screen says, my attitude about is (because it has been wrong before): treat all the scrolling text as fact until circumstance proves otherwise, then discard it as eye candy. I know, for example, that when my McLaren approaches a certain high speed kink on Nurburgring, if it can't slow on time to make the turn, that I must adjust the camber rather than the brakes. Is there really any other logical reason why increasing the camber would allow it to stop faster? Please don't waste this post by assuming I cannot tell the difference between stopping before the turn and cornering through it faster without stopping so well.
I am very intrigued about your view of the brake balance, I think you express the concept well, I prefer your mechanical description, but I would still like it if you could explain the transitional area at the high end, tires seem to chatter and hop, and that seems to be contrary to what is expected as abs increases to maximum.
Specific words, while less than familiar, are usually more exact in definition. Generalities inhibit the pursuit of truth. Suffice it to say it is not my strong suit, and perhaps it helps to consider me like the eccentric old inventor on the hilltop; you could put up with my behavior just long enough to get the formula, then skedaddle.


The noise you hear, to the best of my knowledge, is the sound of the ABS kicking in... the breaks pumping... not the breaks locking. It sounds similar, but it's not exactly the same. When driving here in Canada in the winter time, our ABS kicks in way to easily, mimicking the noise you hear on the game. But, if you throw on the hand break, even in this game, it sounds different. The reason that stopping times are a bit longer are not because you're breaking traction, but because the breaks are only applied in minimal intervals. The higher the number, the more interval in a given time period. Example... When slamming on the breaks a 0 ABS = 1 constant break compression in one minute, which can make the tire lock, breaking tracion yadah yadah yadah making it hard to break and turn (also creating a black tire mark). In the same situation, an ABS of 5 may equal 5 breaking compressions in a minute, while still breaking tracion 5 times, control is maintained in between those times where the breaks are locking (5 significantly smaller marks). Now, the more ABS you add, the more times the break compresses, increasing the breaking time (takes longer to stop), but increasing turing ability as well and increasing tire life. Now, as turning ability is increased, you don't have to stop as much to make the turns... That's also why I've said on several posts that people using my setting have to plan their stopping a bit sooner... As for camber angle is concerned. What do you think would stop quicker... a 6 inch bike tire, or an 10 inch car tire. Surface area would win out, wouldn't you say... The reason that Camber helps to make cars turn easier, is that once the car's weight shifts, it pushes the tire back over itself providing more surface area. Unfortunatly, when a flat tire turns, it lifts one half of the tire, reducing the surface area, decreasing grip, i.e. turning ability...
 
Canadian Speed
What do you think would stop quicker... a 6 inch bike tire, or an 10 inch car tire.
You didn't complete the equation, but I will assume the tires are supporting equal weight from equal speed; so if that is the case, they should stop in almost exactly the same distance. If you don't believe me read Scaff's thread in reference to Sir Issac Newton.
Canadian Speed
Surface area would win out, wouldn't you say...
Negative. it is a common misconception that tire size controls the size of the contact patch, in fact, weight does (again, hat's off to Sir Newton for essentially the same law). actually in the above example, the narrower tire stands an excellent chance of stopping faster by virtue of the fact that it's contact patch would be lined up nicely with the direction of travel/loading.
Canadian Speed
The reason that Camber helps to make cars turn easier, is that once the car's weight shifts, it pushes the tire back over itself providing more surface area. Unfortunatly, when a flat tire turns, it lifts one half of the tire, reducing the surface area, decreasing grip, i.e. turning ability...
That is an excellently reasoned description of how camber works on real cars. Unfortunately it has no bearing in a discussion about GT4 car tuning and settings because the game's physics engine does not distinguish between straight line contact patches and laterally loaded ones, possibly because it is consumed with calculating vectors and effects for the chassis as a whole. For an easy example, carefully watch a replay of a car you were driving starting and stopping. Both pairs of tires begin spinning madly no matter how gradually and slowly you press the gas while making the replay, they don't truly contact the road like real tires do. Also, there is a Gameshark hack that makes the cars "hovercars", essentially removing the wheel "skins" and the cars work normally otherwise...
 
These are the best settings I've come across for the Mercedes SLR McLaren (or MacLaren - whichever spelling is correct). I wish I had noted down who it was that created the setup, so I could give them proper credit. See what you think.

857 HP--- Stage 3 NA

Springs--- 7.5/13.3
Height--- 83/93
Bound--- 8/3
Rebound--- 9/10
Camber--- 1.8/1.2
Toe--- 0/-3
Stab--- 2/4
TCS--- 2
Brakes--- 6/9
LSD--- Torque 5
Accel 30
Decel 8
Weight--- Ballast 20
F/R 20

1. Slide "Final" all the way to 5.000.
2. Slide Autoset to 1.
3. Then slide "Final" to 3.690.

Pete
 
Pmgolf - I tried your settings, and the car understeer more than I liked. :indiff:

Canadian Speed & rk - Keep on having your conversation. I've learned a lot from your conversations so far. :)

As for the settings, I'm probably not going to change them. I'm happy the way they are. :)
 
I just modified the settings for Midfield. I combined the two sets of settings together, thus creating less ASM. It doesn't corner as well than my original settings, but with the right racing line, it's cornering is sufficient.
 
those are good settings 👍 i got 1'10.814 on midfield without the rollcage,brake controller, and the adjustable lsd and without really trying . i have th 1.5 lsd on i didnt put on the rollgace because all of the times i used it it gave me more understear
 
.Duck.
Here is my set-up that I tuned for the Mercedes SLR
mclaren.gif
. It's fully modified with the best parts, including the rollcage, without nitrous, and uses Sports Medium tires. It also gave 1'11.099 on Midfield.
Suspension
-Spring Rate: 15.6 / 16.4
-Ride Height: 98 / 148
-Bound: 7 / 7
-Rebound: 8 / 8
-Camber: 2.8 / 2.0
-Toe: -1 / -3
-Stabilizers: 2 / 4

LSD
-Initial: 5
-Acceleration: 5
-Deceleration: 5

Driving Aids
-ASM Oversteer: 0
-ASM Understeer: 3
-TCS: 3

Brake Controller
-Brakes: 4 / 9

Transmission
1. Slide "Final" all the way to 5.000.
2. Slide Autoset to 1.
3. Then slide "Final" to 3.690.
This is the tranny trick, and this is a good base for tuning your transmission for each track.

Ballast
-Weight: 0
-Location:0

If you don't use ASM, just remove it. It understeers more than the settings with ASM, so expect to gain a second or two to your laptimes.

This is also my first independent set-up, and I will appreciate feedback on whether it is good or not, and what can be improved on.

© Duck7892

settings are amazing for me!!

jus done a 1 min 5 secs on midfield!! all power mods and no nitrous.

iv always wanted this car to be better, but i couldnt find the right settings, but these ones are great.

thanks again
 
I see that your obviously interested in getting great set ups out there, I see you have alot posted already (Dificult to find any feed back on those set ups, this being the first Ive been able to post my own) Im trying to be constructive here, so I know it will be critiszm BUT only to help, not to be rude.

I would sugest to lower the rear Spring rate (Its way too stiff back there) loosening the rear is a good thing, it helps get the ass of the car arround corners.

Someone previously stated in this post that the car will handle better if the Spring rate Variables are closer together, just forget that, I dont know where he thought up that, but it couldnt be further from the truth.

More time spent on the Shock Bound & Rebound would be needed

SB___7/7
SRB__8/8

This is Way too gineric (As seen on most Duck Set ups) You can get ALOT of cornering ballance from Proper adjustments to the SB & SRB.

And dont you find the rear end a little jacked up?

The tranny trick, shouldnt be used by real tuners (Its not that hard to set the gears up to close or better then the tranny trick can set) and I find the tranny trick a bit of a tuning cheat.

Toe is a rarety to be implyed on a Street Tuned car (Mostly For Purpose biult Race cars, but it does benifit some street cars, it apears there is way too much in this aplication, not only resulting in poor handeling, but also increasing the tire ware to the vehicle. Some Raod cars can benifit from them, but its rare.

Your LSD Accel Should NEVER be that low on a Rear wheel drive vehicle, never ever.

Beaks (This being a Higly subjective matter, alot of Driving styles will incoporate odd Break set ups, but the General rule is the Weight transfers to the front while breaking, the area with most weight needing the higher break setting (hint hint) But like I said, some odd driving styles will incorporate odd setting some times.

You will also generally want the Front to sway less then the rear as the front is turning the car, so Tightening the Saw bar up front and loosening it in the rear help get her arround corners (Speaking in reguards to Front engine rear wheel drive vehicles)

ASM is a no no for tuners, If the set up wont work without ASM, I would go back to the drawing board (AS a rule, ASM is put to 0 as the First thing I do after buying all upgrades for the car.

Good luck with your set ups and Tuning, I hope you take it far.
 
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