HFS's car thread | Nearly-5000-miles update

The softness in the pedal might be that you boiled the liquid. Apart from pads, SS lines and high temp fluid are a must and cheap insurance.
 
The softness in the pedal might be that you boiled the liquid. Apart from pads, SS lines and high temp fluid are a must and cheap insurance.
Yeah, I did consider that too, though my brakes are at the end of their life anyway. When I get them changed I'll make sure they put in some suitable fluid, as I'm aiming to get on track a lot more.

This first time with the car was good for figuring out what needs changing first, and brakes are definitely priority #1!

Less important but also worth looking at is my steering wheel. The Nardi one it has at the moment looks good, but it's as old as the car and the leather is past its best. Haven't decided what I'll replace it with - either a Nardi Classic or Momo Prototipo are at the top of the list.
 
Lost one of the centre caps from my BBS alloys the other day. Heard it ping off, but couldn't find it when I went back to look:

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Perhaps I should have looked harder - brand new, these things cost about £170 over here. Seriously.

Also, the roof is back on, temporarily anyway. It was getting in the way at work (I'd just removed it and left it in the foyer...) but I need to grab a second pair of hands to help me remove it at home so it can stay in the garage. Still, in its current spec, with the spoiler, I reckon the roof improves the looks. That'll hopefully change when I've made some decisions regarding wheels, offset and a new trunk lid.

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Lost one of the centre caps from my BBS alloys the other day. Heard it ping off, but couldn't find it when I went back to look:

Perhaps I should have looked harder - brand new, these things cost about £170 over here. Seriously.

Those are BBS RZs, right? Is that a 14 or 15 inch wheel?

Are you going to purchase an used one or are you just going to leave it without a center cap? The BBS part of the center cap is removable/replaceable, so you potentially may have a wider selection of used center caps.
 
Those are BBS RZs, right? Is that a 14 or 15 inch wheel?

Are you going to purchase an used one or are you just going to leave it without a center cap? The BBS part of the center cap is removable/replaceable, so you potentially may have a wider selection of used center caps.
Yup RZs, and 14". I've been on eBay and they're significantly cheaper there, if I'm looking at the right bit. However, it's the whole cover that's missing, rather than just the small circle with BBS on it. That's why it's so expensive.

I've actually considered taking all of the other caps off so at least it matches, but that doesn't really solve the problem of being one short! I've no intention of selling the wheels (even if I do replace them for something lower-offset) so ideally I want to keep them all complete.
 
Real shame... those are such pretty wheels!

Still haven't found the bit, yet?
 
I've actually considered taking all of the other caps off so at least it matches, but that doesn't really solve the problem of being one short! I've no intention of selling the wheels (even if I do replace them for something lower-offset) so ideally I want to keep them all complete.

They don't look any worse for not having the centre covers on, to be fair. Perhaps just replace the current nuts for a set of nice domed ones?
 
They don't look any worse for not having the centre covers on, to be fair. Perhaps just replace the current nuts for a set of nice domed ones?
I could go full JDM-bro and get some titanium ones, I guess :lol: I do quite like the look with the caps removed, but as I mentioned above, it's more a completist thing. If I ever sold the car and returned it all to original spec, missing a centre cap would bug me.
Those are BBS RZs, right?
Also, thanks for the identification. I wasn't sure exactly what BBS they were before, which made finding the exact size impossible - I now know that the size used on Eunos Roadsters like mine was 14x6 with I think a 45mm offset.

The aim for new wheels (when I eventually reach that stage) is probably 14x6.5 with 35mm. Should have the look I'm aiming for, while avoiding too much extra weight (perhaps even losing some, though the RZs are among the lightest aluminium 14" wheels available - between 9 and 10.6 lbs - so that may be difficult).
Less important but also worth looking at is my steering wheel. The Nardi one it has at the moment looks good, but it's as old as the car and the leather is past its best. Haven't decided what I'll replace it with - either a Nardi Classic or Momo Prototipo are at the top of the list.
Well, a few moments on eBay has decided that one for me...

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Also, thanks for the identification. I wasn't sure exactly what BBS they were before, which made finding the exact size impossible - I now know that the size used on Eunos Roadsters like mine was 14x6 with I think a 45mm offset.

You bet. I only know because BMW fitted the same wheels with different offsets to many E30s, and mine actually has a set of 15" version on right now, and I have 2 more sets of it sitting in my garage...

I'm pretty sure the BBS RZ were fitted to other cars by other manufacturers as well.

Yup RZs, and 14". I've been on eBay and they're significantly cheaper there, if I'm looking at the right bit. However, it's the whole cover that's missing, rather than just the small circle with BBS on it. That's why it's so expensive.

I've actually considered taking all of the other caps off so at least it matches, but that doesn't really solve the problem of being one short! I've no intention of selling the wheels (even if I do replace them for something lower-offset) so ideally I want to keep them all complete.

Yup, the whole cover, but the point of my question I guess is that you can get a cover off of an E30 and just pop out the BMW badge and pop the BBS badge in the middle, and as long as it's off a 14" wheel, it should fit your Miata just fine.

I ran without caps for a while and though I prefer the look with caps on, good news is that it doesn't look out of place without caps.

Well, a few moments on eBay has decided that one for me...

Steering wheel looks nice!
 
Yup, the whole cover, but the point of my question I guess is that you can get a cover off of an E30 and just pop out the BMW badge and pop the BBS badge in the middle, and as long as it's off a 14" wheel, it should fit your Miata just fine.

I ran without caps for a while and though I prefer the look with caps on, good news is that it doesn't look out of place without caps.
Ah okay, gotcha. I'm actually undecided on the look - it's classier with the caps on, but looks a bit more racerish with them off. I'm not too bothered either way though, given the replacement plans. I just want the set I have to be complete!
Steering wheel looks nice!
Thanks! Should be a bit nicer to hold than the mangy leather one currently on it, it's about the same size (maybe a tiny bit bigger, but not enough to notice) and again, fits in with the look I have in my head. Slowly removing the nasty chrome bits all over the interior, which means the black spokes will work a little better with the rest of the cabin.
 
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Wheel now installed. Already love it. As I wrote on Instagram, the diameter is similar to the original Nardi wheel but the rim is thinner (which I like), there's no squidge in the rim (which I like), and less inertia as it's physically lighter than the leather wheel.

Once I've binned the chrome vent rings and swapped the enormous chrome Momo gearknob for something a little more low-key (possibly combined with a taller gear lever), the wood will also be a nice focal point without being OTT.

Building a picture in my head of what I'd like the car to look like. It's all small stuff so far, but excited to keep on tweaking bits here and there. Always felt like I had unfinished business after my first MX-5 got stolen.
 
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Not much more to report. Do have a photo from the last trackday our magazine organised, however:

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To recap, tyres ended up a bit cooked (now fine), brake fluid boiled (ditto, though I've got rotors and pads waiting to go on the car so that's now a priority), and my clutch was a bit more slippy afterwards (also now fine - i.e. no more slippy than before).

You'll note the roof was off in that pic. It's now back on, as above. Storage issues. I've bought a bunch of LED replacement bulbs recently too, for the sidelights, numberplate lights, and instrument lights where one or two existing ones have gone. They were cheap, so if they're crap it's no great loss. Hoping the sidelight bulbs are white, rather than whitey-blue, but again, cheap, so if they're crap I'll just buy some better ones.

Other than that, same priorities as before: a full belts and fluids service, some chassis stiffening, a bucket seat, and the 14 degree timing mod. Then we go from there.
 
An LED light kit is on my to do list as well, but I didnt consider using them for the exterior pieces. Before and after pics please!

Car looks great in that photo by the way 👍
 
An LED light kit is on my to do list as well, but I didnt consider using them for the exterior pieces. Before and after pics please!
To clarify, not using them for the actual headlights (though I am keeping a very close eye on 7" LED light units which are now creeping onto the market), but see little reason not to use them for sidelights, indicators, tails etc.

Part of the motivation is also so I can run with the sidelights more or less permanently on. I've noticed a lot of people pulling out in front of me since I've had this car - I think the combination of a dark colour and small car means non-attentive other drivers simply don't notice it. A couple of bright LED sidelights should help give it a bit of presence.
Car looks great in that photo by the way 👍
Thanks :) As well as the more practical things I need to sort out above, I've a few visual things I'd like to do in the near future, including an offset, square front numberplate rather than the massive plinth it currently has. Considered a stick-on plate, but I've never been quite comfortable about how those look. Always wanted a set of bullet mirrors, too.
 
@homeforsummer Plinth is the right word, now that you mention it, it stands out like a black eye. Bullet mirrors will really add to it too :)
Aiming to swap the standard trunk lid with spoiler for a ducktail one at some point too, which should improve the looks further.

In the shorter term, the LED sidelights are now fitted:

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Whatever they look like in this image, they're a proper white in real life, so I'm pleased with that. Contrary to this image they don't look as bright as I expected, but that's fine. And they may look a bit odd with the Japanese-market sealed-beam headlights currently on the car, which are a bit candle-like - but I've some plans for the headlights.

Did run into a few issues while fitting the LEDs though. First, I accidentally broke the housing for the right-hand side light as I was twisting it shut - old, brittle plastic. Then on the left hand side it's already broken, and the little rubber seal is also missing.

Then I tried to fit the console LEDs. What a nightmare. Gearknob was a right faff to remove to get the centre console out of the way, then my stereo wouldn't free, and then one of the LEDs I tried to fit shorted the instruments/sidelights/taillights fuse. So it's currently without a light, and I'm going to attempt to re-fit one once I've mustered up enough arsed.

More positively, I've fitted a set of these:

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Garage Star door bushings. They replace the standard rubber ones, but they're built to much tighter tolerances. The theory is, they effectively form a brace with the doors, which reduces chassis flex.

The amazing thing is, it actually seems to work. I won't have a full idea until I've removed the hard top, which stiffens up the chassis quite a bit on its own, but after a brief drive there's already a difference and I'm pretty sure it's not all in my head. Will remove the top at work on Monday and see what's what then.
 
More positively, I've fitted a set of these:

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Garage Star door bushings. They replace the standard rubber ones, but they're built to much tighter tolerances. The theory is, they effectively form a brace with the doors, which reduces chassis flex.

The amazing thing is, it actually seems to work. I won't have a full idea until I've removed the hard top, which stiffens up the chassis quite a bit on its own, but after a brief drive there's already a difference and I'm pretty sure it's not all in my head. Will remove the top at work on Monday and see what's what then.

I know @ildd fitted these and won't stop talking about them on his NB. I didn't know they actually improved chassis rigidity though!
 
I know @ildd fitted these and won't stop talking about them on his NB. I didn't know they actually improved chassis rigidity though!
It doesn't by a huge amount - fitting proper braces etc will do more, obviously - but it's enough to pretty much kill rattles from the doors and windscreen. It's effectively like having higher sills.

For two bits of plastic, they're expensive. But in relation to other stiffening measures, and given how effective they seem to be, they're ridiculously cheap.
 
LED lights always seem to spruce up a vehicle a bit, I'm glad I did it with my truck. I'm not sure what the dome lights in the Miata are like, but putting brighter bulbs inside my truck made a world of difference when I'm trying to find stuff at night. They're a simple upgrade but worth it. Looks good 👍
 
I second Joey's words on LED interior lights. When I bought the Panda the interior light bulb had blown, so I decided to replace it with an LED one and ended up buying one for Bruiser as well. During the day they don't seem much, but at night you can really tell.
 
LED lights always seem to spruce up a vehicle a bit, I'm glad I did it with my truck. I'm not sure what the dome lights in the Miata are like, but putting brighter bulbs inside my truck made a world of difference when I'm trying to find stuff at night. They're a simple upgrade but worth it. Looks good 👍
I'd actually forgotten about the regular interior lights (in the Miata there's one pointing into each footwell, and a kind of glow where the ashtray/cupholder/whatever item is).

The ones I was attempting to replace are behind the HVAC controls, as one of the three bulbs has blown. I'm not sure whether the LED I tried was dodgy or what, but there was a quick fizzle and then the dash lights went out (as did the tail lights and sidelights/parking lights, which are on the same fuse). Unfortunately, it took ages to get to that state, and by the time I'd figured out the fuse had gone I'd put the dashboard back together! I need to replace the instrument lights too, and I've got LEDs for those too.

Just makes sense to replace whatever lights can be replaced with LEDs now. There are suitable options for everything apart from the dipped/main beams (and even those can potentially be replaced on the MX-5 with 7" LED lamps).
 
I had LED's in the C240 but have yet to get one for the dome light in the Miata. I kind of forgot about it; I'll probably end up buying one as soon as I get home now.
@homeforsummer I agree that they're pretty expensive for two pieces of rather soft plastic, but I think we'll both agree it's still a good value for what they do, which will probably sound crazy to everyone who hasn't experienced them yet.
 
Not sure you could call them "soft" plastic - they seem pretty solid to me! Certainly more so than the regular rubber ones it came with. But yes, it's not a lot to pay for what seems like quite a significant effect.
 
@homeforsummer - Where did you get your LED bulbs from? I have a pair in the Fabia, but the MOT tester had a quiet word that they were looking a bit blue. So hard to find a cheap, white set...

Reading this thread was a bad idea, I've already spent too much time looking for NA MX5s :grumpy:
 
Where did you get your LED bulbs from?
Just eBay. Nothing too special or expensive, listed by a seller called partsulike_co_uk and listed as "10 x LED Side Light Bulbs T10 W5W 501 Xenon Super White". 501 is the bulb number - I found out what I needed and pretty much typed "501 bulb led" into the search.

From what I can see, they're just white, without a hint of blue tint. I'm yet to see them in conjunction with my headlights though, as my headlights are very much old-school flame-yellow in colour. If I tried to photograph the two together, it wouldn't surprise me if the camera tried balancing out the white to blue.

I hinted at my headlight plans above, and they're twofold at the moment. I'd love to get hold of a set of these, proper LED headlamps, which should actually fit the Mazda. Someone has tested them in LHD here, and the light output and beam shape looks fantastic. My worry with things like this would be having a beam pattern that dazzled other drivers, so I'll have to investigate further.

If for whatever reason they really aren't suitable, these are my backup plan.
 
One of my current priorities with the car is finding a seat I want to use. Doing so is giving me headaches, as I want the seemingly impossible combination of something small enough to fit in the car, that's also low enough to shave a couple of inches from my current seating position while keeping the seat's ability to slide fore and aft, while fitting in with the look I have in mind, while also being affordable.

Closest I've come to finding such a thing so far are either Cobra Racer Pros:

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Or Corbeau LE Drivers:

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Suspect the Corbeaus will be most suitable as they're designed for the Lotus Elise, which has probably even stricter dimension requirements than the Mazda.

Both are still relatively expensive, around the £400 mark, but not Recaro/Bride expensive which seem to be nearer £600+ for anything suitable. I've also considered stock Elise seats, but finding some of those at a decent price in the right colour (and not vinyl) is basically impossible.

Black is the colour of choice since it'll fit in with the rest of the interior best without significantly impacting on the semi-retro look I'm going for. The ones I'm looking at are also a bit curvier in shape, which I prefer.

That look rules out many of the cheaper seats on the market since most are a bit heavy on the graphics or manufacturer text and have squarer features, while most cheaper seats are also base-mounted, and therefore almost certainly no improvement on the high seating position of the stock seats.

So yeah, headache. I'm too much of a perfectionist to just slap any old seat in there.
 
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