How to be master of driving with Logitech wheels on GT 6/S - Unleash your hidden FFB potential

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How to be master of driving with Logitech wheels on GT 6/S
Unleash your hidden FFB potential

Never again miss a catch from slide or lockup your wheels with noABS.



You might think at this is bit bold promise, but it's not, if you now can keep your car on track with Logitech wheel after this you keep hardest cars without any helps on track.

I have been running GT series FFB/controller settings on practically the same position since GT5, until recently when I got a kick to investigate "what if I'm just doing it wrong". And just because I tried another developer's game where basic FFB was on default settings, which was just pure utter :yuck: to drive, banging my head:banghead: on the wall for several hours with it and finally I figured out from my old sayings, "overlapping center spring effect" and bang, I got that game work pretty well and was bit amazed from the level of feedback that I could get from it.
Okey you might wonder how this helps on the GT series!? Well, a lot, the other game was using only two main FFB settings for "all needed", overall force of FFB and multiplier value for those direct FFB signals what will be then multiplied to wheel using canned FFB effects (direct FFB + canned FFB as multiplier), so these two factors had to be on perfect match to get everything clearly out on wheel feedback, meaning you have to have pretty much on standard FFB signal to keep it clear over canned FFB effect, then I balanced those two to match as first canned effects are sensible on dead top center of wheel turn (±2mm) and those aren't hiding any of actual FFB signals.

So that's on another game, but I was curious how similar things were to the GT series FFB settings, named totally different but I recalled something very similar with their effects on the FFB, I had to test and get it dialed in ~1:1 values in GTS. I was more than surprised by the results, this was going in a really, really good direction. I fine tuned those best as I could and jumped behind wheel of Lotus Evora N300. The results of full stock first time driving is shown in the above video. It was just impossible to miss a catch from a slide, I felt all wheels individually plus had a perfect sense of their rolling direction, slip angle, everything was on my hands and I was enjoying it.
Then a big sledgehammer hit on my head. What if this was already on GT6 but I only missed it!? So I powered up my PS3 and dialed same values that I had just used on GTS and jumped behind the wheel of the R8 LMS ULTRA. After few different tracks and testing is there better choices than those same!? I was again amazed. I'm feeling everything on this car too. So I gotta check the one and only Yellowbird, then with it on Nordschleife, all aids off, noABS or anything, just plain full stock YB on standard 5/5 brakes and running green hell. After I got a few kilometre on odometer and I had to take a break (you can guess why), after break I went back to whole new world, world of full sensitivity feedback allowing me to feel all wheel movements, all jumps and bumps, drops and dips, cracks from asphalt and sharp edges of kerbs, this was a dream, but it was real, I drove instantly clean lap on SH tires (7:46) and was wondering how freaking easy it was when I can feel all FFB. So I had to test lower compounds, so I dropped one at time from SH (CS, CM then CH), with no changes to the car, just slamming weaker tires and straight back to track. Every compound was so predictable, easy to drive with "new" sensational FFB feeling, all compounds made clean lap directly on one shot, only thing that made it "hard" was the super-wide smile on my face while I was driving, even CH tires gave decent 8:35 lap time without pushing.

So that's the story, you might want to test this yourself, hit as is the following values on your game and prepare to be surprised:
Controller sensitivity 7
FFB max torque 8
(direct FFB effects power value)
FFB sensitivity 2 (canned FFB effects multiplier value)

Tested currently on GTS and GT6 with Logitech G27, who knows if those canned FFB strengths are same on other manufacturer's wheels too, but it can't hurt to test.

Below those Yellowbird runs replay files, actual replay+fastest lap replay, forget to clear ghost on CH so no fastest lap replay on it, only normal replay.
Screenshot_2017-04-25-08-49-57.png

 

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I don't understand how seemingly most people set the numbers high for the best FFB and stick to it. I've only used that 8 / 2 combination a few times and I don't think I had the controller sensitivity at 7. It was probably at 5 or 6. I've recently figured out controller sensitivity needs to stay at 7 and now I know to stick to 8 / 2. I usually have it set at 4-6 / 2.

What's the problem with setting the FFB sensitivity to 1?
 
I don't understand how seemingly most people set the numbers high for the best FFB and stick to it. I've only used that 8 / 2 combination a few times and I don't think I had the controller sensitivity at 7. It was probably at 5 or 6. I've recently figured out controller sensitivity needs to stay at 7 and now I know to stick to 8 / 2. I usually have it set at 4-6 / 2.

What's the problem with setting the FFB sensitivity to 1?
It's giving too mild force on canned FFB effects, they aren't showing their presence clearly(leaves huge deadzone on center). Again if putting 3 on FFB sens it's making canned pop out too much, and adding more "torque" doesn't help, it's still leaving behind and during cornering canned FFB centering spring starts to mask wheel travel information.
 
It's giving too mild force on canned FFB effects, they aren't showing their presence clearly(leaves huge deadzone on center). Again if putting 3 on FFB sens it's making canned pop out too much, and adding more "torque" doesn't help, it's still leaving behind and during cornering canned FFB centering spring starts to mask wheel travel information.
By "mask", would using the word "numb" be another way to describe it?

And while we're at it, what's the highest the brake sensitivity should be set to?
 
By "mask", would using the word "numb" be another way to describe it?

And while we're at it, what's the highest the brake sensitivity should be set to?
Numb is better word to describe it.

Brake sensitivity/balance is always depending from driver, lowering it if your foot is deeply smashing pedal and causing you to release from started lockup, this FFB setting allows you to feel on wheel early stages of wheel locking, so way easier to avoid full lockup.
 
Interesting. I'll give your settings a try out later. 👍

I normally run with them set to 3/4 which I've found works quite well for me, I don't like to fight the wheel too much.
I've never been entirely sure wether the controller sensitivity option makes any difference so I usually leave that at zero. But I'm certainly open to improving the feel if possible so as I said I'll give it a go.

A question...
Do you have the power steering option turned on or not? I find it's easier to catch a slide with it on.
 
A question...
Do you have the power steering option turned on or not? I find it's easier to catch a slide with it on.
Good question, I have it switched on, definitely have to test without it and check if FFB values can be different after that!!

I'll update all steering related settings on op later, there was simulation switched on also on some GT, well check and update.
 
I gave it a try out and well, I'm not sure I'm liking it if I'm honest :(. As far as the first 2 settings go I can definitely see your points. But with the FFB sensitivity so low I feel a little disconnected somewhat. It does make it a bit easier to drive as you can feel the bumps without them kicking the wheel out of your hands :eek: but on the other hand I feel it makes the steering feel lighter until the suspension starts loading up during a turn. Also it seems to cut out a bit of "wobble" I've experienced with some cars, the Yellow bird included.

I think I'll be keeping the first two at 7 and 8 from now on. But going a little higher on the sensitivity (3 or 4) :). As I feel this just works out better personally. Much better than with the much higher figure I was using before though :)👍.

Nice work :cheers:.
 
@Thorin Cain do you use power steering option? It might be one key element to take out wobble. Need to check differences on power steering on/off and driving mode simulation and lower, those might influence feedback level, I'm having them switched on power steering and simulation as driving mode.
 
@Thorin Cain do you use power steering option? It might be one key element to take out wobble. Need to check differences on power steering on/off and driving mode simulation and lower, those might influence feedback level, I'm having them switched on power steering and simulation as driving mode.
Yes, I have simulation on also power assisted steering. Power steering was off for a while, but found a couple of months ago that it seemed to work better for me. I honestly can't remember what the differences felt like though, only that I preferred it on in the end :).
 
Controller Sensitivity has no effect on a steering wheel. It's meant for controllers only. Same with GTSport. Here's the GT6 manual for reference:

IMG_0025.PNG
 
An example, not per-say, no. But a test that is easy to conduct and replicable, yes :).

Take any "detailed" car out to any track. Select drivers-eye view and watch how the wheel reacts to inputs as you alter the settings. Lower settings will show the wheel on screen has to "catch up" with the wheel angle/speed being input. Also smaller movements don't have the same effect when turning the wheel. You can move the wheel further with low settings before the wheel on-screen turns, whereas with high sensitivity you easily notice even a fraction of a degree of movement a lot easier.

:cheers:
 
An example, not per-say, no. But a test that is easy to conduct and replicable, yes :).

Take any "detailed" car out to any track. Select drivers-eye view and watch how the wheel reacts to inputs as you alter the settings. Lower settings will show the wheel on screen has to "catch up" with the wheel angle/speed being input. Also smaller movements don't have the same effect when turning the wheel. You can move the wheel further with low settings before the wheel on-screen turns, whereas with high sensitivity you easily notice even a fraction of a degree of movement a lot easier.

:cheers:

Sounds good, just to double check again I tried this last night in GTS, 10 laps with controller setting to 7 per the original post settings (with 8 torque, 2 sensitivity), and 10 laps at controller 0 (with 8 torque and 2 sensitivity), and I couldn't see the difference. I'll try it again, but I'm not convinced. :confused:

If the controller setting changes the way a steering wheel behaves then the FFB sliders also should affect the controller, but I'm pretty sure they don't.
 
Can't say if it's the same in GTS, haven't played the beta :(. I can only comment for GT6 as I switched to G27 from DS3 about a year or so ago and spent quite a while testing out the settings then.

If the controller setting changes the way a steering wheel behaves then the FFB sliders also should affect the controller, but I'm pretty sure they don't.
Sorry, I can't follow that logic. DS3 has no FFB, but every wheel is a controller.
 
I tried Controller Sensitivity at 7, FFB Torque at 8 and FFB Sensitivity at 2. Lost all the feeling I had before with settings at 0, 10 and 10. I'll try Controller Sensitivity changes again from 0 but I also felt no difference as I messed with it before going back to 0, 10, 10. I'm using a DFGT.
 
Sorry, I can't follow that logic. DS3 has no FFB, but every wheel is a controller.

Hmm. A steering wheel is a controller in that it controls gameplay, but I'm pretty sure PD and most developers treat them as separate things (wheels and DS controllers). Good discussion. :cheers:
 
Hmm. As far as this goes on my G29, my own results are nebulous. However, I feel like the controller logic is different from day to day sometimes. I ran 10 laps or so at Dragon Trail in the GR.4 Megane with SS at 7, and then 10 more with SS at 0. I really didn't feel a difference, and my lap times were within .5 sec. with both settings. (All in the high 1:56-low 1:57 range...) Having said that, unless I make really ridiculous setup changes my lap times are always pretty consistent. I think the wheel controller logic is still flawed- I'm basically getting no usable feedback. Oh, the wheel is bumping and grinding, but it's not TELLING me anything. It's as if the game is just emulating a DS4.
 
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