How to build cockpit made in aluminium profile?

[ultimate]

Hi, i want to build by myself a cockpit made in aluminium profile but honestly i don't know what to pick for full cockpit.
Moreover, lightest and cheapest aluminium profile (20x20), does it support driver + wheel and pedals?
I would actually build F1 type cockpit like RBR F1 Playseat but without center pole
Like mostly such as below picture

Thanks for any advice

 

[Azure Flare]

While I have never built a cockpit, I think that 80/20 aluminum extrusion tubing would be pretty good to build it from.

Light, somewhat inexpensive if you go for a minimalist approach to the design, what you have pictured is what I would probably make. And you can make it near-infinitely adjustable if needed.

 

[TheORDL]

Drop me a mail via our website, www.kbaluminiumprofile.co.uk and tale a look at our rig pics. I am sure I can help you with this.

Evo

 

[ultimate]

While I have never built a cockpit, I think that 80/20 aluminum extrusion tubing would be pretty good to build it from.

Light, somewhat inexpensive if you go for a minimalist approach to the design, what you have pictured is what I would probably make. And you can make it near-infinitely adjustable if needed.

I had light cockpit such as CSL and it was sturdy enough, i am looking for best compromise between sturdiness and lightness (you can just put it away anywhere you want)
TotalSpanishSimulator (another company that sells profile alu cockpits) made their cockpit in 45x45

 

[ultimate]

Drop me a mail via our website, www.kbaluminiumprofile.co.uk and tale a look at our rig pics. I am sure I can help you with this.

Evo

Thanks
Could they answer me about technical questions
Like ''how many weight can lightest profile alu support?''

 

[JogoAsobi]

80/20 construction can be very costly, depending how its done.

Angles other than 90º right angle using 80/20 are achieved by using...
...pivots or connecting plates pre-cut or machined ($$$) to pre-determined angles.
I also suggest taking a look at their downloadable catalog at www.8020.net.

If you build it your self, do you have the tools to cut, machine, and tap the extrusion?
Doing 80/20 right will also require investment of your time. (If you mess up = $$$$)

If you don't have the tools or time, commercial may be cheaper in the end than DIY.

From the "been there, done that" club (its in my signature).

 

[MartyU]

I've used 80/20 for some partial rig projects like mounting a shifter to the desk and building a base to use an automotive seat. It is a great system for the DIY designer. Unlike almost any other approach you can make stuff easily adjustable and modify/upgrade as you learn how to get what you want out of it.

Cost can add up but results can be better than alot of what I've seen for finished sim rig products. I like a rigid wheel mounting for instance. I'm amazed how visibly flexy the wheel mounts are as seen in video product reviews.

It helps if you like the challenge of building stuff, otherwise maybe better to just buy a finished product.

 

[JogoAsobi]

I've used 80/20 for some partial rig projects like mounting a shifter to the desk and building a base to use an automotive seat. It is a great system for the DIY designer. Unlike almost any other approach you can make stuff easily adjustable and modify/upgrade as you learn how to get what you want out of it.

Cost can add up but results can be better than alot of what I've seen for finished sim rig products. I like a rigid wheel mounting for instance. I'm amazed how visibly flexy the wheel mounts are as seen in video product reviews.

It helps if you like the challenge of building stuff, otherwise maybe better to just buy a finished product.

Exactly what I did.
First I built a dual shifter mount to add to a Rennsport wheel stand....
....then I did a H-shifter mount for a granstand.com seat base.
granstand.com's seat base is a great way to get started too.

Highly adjustable wheel mount with minimal flex was motivator for my rig.
It wasn't easy though, and took lots of time, if not your cup of tea, buy retail.

If you have an 80/20 dealer nearby check if they have a demo van.
Hands-on with their stuff before buying & building is a huge help.

 

[MartyU]

Thanks
Could they answer me about technical questions
Like ''how many weight can lightest profile alu support?''

The stuff is pretty strong. I built my seat frame out of the smallest stuff (1"x1") and its solid. Most of the strength comes from the design for the application and the way you put it together. Much like a race car it can be made of light weight materials but is strong and ridged due to proper design which means understanding where forces are applied and in what direction they act.

This stuff may not be for everyone but can be very rewarding to use.

 

[JogoAsobi]

Thanks
Could they answer me about technical questions
Like ''how many weight can lightest profile alu support?''

Download their catalog here, it has stress specifications for each type of profile.
It available in metric and fractional, in a variety of dimensions, and weights.

Like @MartyU stated, the weight bearing load is also affected by support design.
There are lighter variations of the profile (the tubing) such as LITE, and UL too.

 

[AndreiHB]

The stuff is pretty strong. I built my seat frame out of the smallest stuff (1"x1") and its solid. Most of the strength comes from the design for the application and the way you put it together. Much like a race car it can be made of light weight materials but is strong and ridged due to proper design which means understanding where forces are applied and in what direction they act.

This stuff may not be for everyone but can be very rewarding to use.

Thanks for sharing which profile you used. I've been thinking of doing one, and thought of using the 1"x1", but was concerned about it's strengh. Most of the cockpits I've seen used the 1.5"x1.5"profile, but that runs at pretty much twice the price.
Well, back to the drawing table

 

[JogoAsobi]

Thanks for sharing which profile you used. I've been thinking of doing one, and thought of using the 1"x1", but was concerned about it's strengh. Most of the cockpits I've seen used the 1.5"x1.5"profile, but that runs at pretty much twice the price.
Well, back to the drawing table

I used 4 different profile sizes on my rig.
You can get away with 1"x1" for the seat supports.

But I recommend going at least 1.5"x1.5" for the rig.
If you are going to dish the cash for 80/20, minimize flex.

 

[LMSCorvetteGT2]

Hi, i want to build by myself a cockpit made in aluminium profile but honestly i don't know what to pick for full cockpit.
Moreover, lightest and cheapest aluminium profile (20x20), does it support driver + wheel and pedals?
I would actually build F1 type cockpit like RBR F1 Playseat but without center pole
Like mostly such as below picture

Thanks for any advice

Are you planning on building it yourself? If so how? And yes it should hold it fine. Also what other option do you have as far as aluminum goes?

 

[AndreiHB]

I used 4 different profile sizes on my rig.
You can get away with 1"x1" for the seat supports.

But I recommend going at least 1.5"x1.5" for the rig.
If you are going to dish the cash for 80/20, minimize flex.

One of my concerns with the 1"x1" for a seat support is that I'm a bit on the heavy side(about 260lbs).
For the wheel/pedals/shifter part I was going with some bracing on my design. To avoid flex and give some adjustability, which is why I thought the 1"x1" was going to be fine, until I saw almost everyone using 1.5"x1.5".

With said bracing, it would use quite some tubbing, which would bring the price up, but if I could use the 1"x1", well, the cost with the tubbing would be a bit less, even tough the connections and plates cost almost the same.

 

[JogoAsobi]

One of my concerns with the 1"x1" for a seat support is that I'm a bit on the heavy side(about 260lbs).
For the wheel/pedals/shifter part I was going with some bracing on my design. To avoid flex and give some adjustability, which is why I thought the 1"x1" was going to be fine, until I saw almost everyone using 1.5"x1.5".

With said bracing, it would use quite some tubbing, which would bring the price up, but if I could use the 1"x1", well, the cost with the tubbing would be a bit less, even tough the connections and plates cost almost the same.

With the weight load you will put on the seat, I would go at least 1"x2" (1020)
The kind of seat you will use also will be a factor.
For example, the CRX seat I had prior, was much heavier than the ProCar seat I now have.

Most of the cost with 8020 is the connectors and related hardware.
The difference in price for 1010 (1"x1") and 1515 (1.5"x1.5") is about 30 cents a foot.
Of course the 10 series connectors are cheaper than 15 series.

If you're set on doing 10 series, you could go with 1020 (1"x2").
That way you could still use the cheaper 10 series connectors.
It'll give you a wider footprint than just 1"x1".

 

[AndreiHB]

With the weight load you will put on the seat, I would go at least 1"x2" (1020)
The kind of seat you will use also will be a factor.
For example, the CRX seat I had prior, was much heavier than the ProCar seat I now have.

Most of the cost with 8020 is the connectors and related hardware.
The difference in price for 1010 (1"x1") and 1515 (1.5"x1.5") is about 30 cents a foot.
Of course the 10 series connectors are cheaper than 15 series.

If you're set on doing 10 series, you could go with 1020 (1"x2").
That way you could still use the cheaper 10 series connectors.
It'll give you a wider footprint than just 1"x1".

I've been checking on amazon for prices on the 80/20, and there's also a dealer/representative pretty close to where I live, which I'll check on them once I have the plans.
Maybe I'm going to have to take a different aproach. Instead of more tubes and angles, I'll have to do some simpler uprights with heavier profiles.

 

[JogoAsobi]

@AndreiHB Good luck with your project! 👍

 

[fatkrakr]

I built my triple monitor mount with 15 series and from my experience for the price your going to be paying you'll be much more satisfied with the heavier profile. You just need to remember that 80/20 is by no means going to be cheap, but the ability to do pretty much anything with it with basic tools makes it great for DIY projects. As Jogo said being able to tap and cut the profile will save a lot of money. Also remember while angles look real nice for the design, they are also very expensive to build, so try to keep them to a minimum. Lots of benefits with 80/20, but none of them are the price.

 

[ultimate]

Thanks for sharing these knowledge about profile alu, i think i am going to give up that idea of profile alu cockpit due to the cost
I will made it in wood but the feature i would add, might interest you
Cockpit will be foldable from full size race position to foldable size position
Frame between rear seat and pedals support can be adjusted by sliding
e.g

My rough schema by paint lol