I’m so bad at this!!

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readthis13

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I’ve owned, and tracked many many times, several fast cars (I’ve owned a GT-R, multiple Ferrari’s - last was a 488, Porsche’s, etc), and have done all types of events from 1/4 & 1/2 miles, to road courses, and have done extremely well. I was never near as bad as I am at GT7 w/ a steering wheel and brake setup. I know they aren’t the same thing, but I thought much of it would be similar.

It’s like I simply can’t get it to work in my head. I’m always under steering, or completely out of control, and I can’t seem to get it. Now some things aren’t realistic - like the GTR braking loose and having its rear and come around on me while breaking in a straight line (I’ve personally done this a million times at events). So I don’t know how many other things the game is inserting that don’t align with real world driving, but I’m guessing the issue is really just me not being able to judge things virtually. I can’t feel how fast I’m going for example. And maybe I’m not feeling what I need to get in the wheel.

I’ve only had the new rig setup for a few nights, and I’m playing with the PSVR2, but I had really expected to be further along here.


Has anyone here had this same experience? And if so, any advice on how you improved? Anything you found that really helped you out?
 
What wheel are you using? Some of your issues like lack of feel could be down to the wheel settings. GT7 in game settings can have an effect as well. Set controller sensitivity to 10, FFB max torque to 5 or 6 at most (the signal clips at higher levels), and FFB sensitivity at 1 to start.
 
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readthis13
I’ve owned, and tracked many many times, several fast cars (I’ve owned a GT-R, multiple Ferrari’s - last was a 488, Porsche’s, etc), and have done all types of events from 1/4 & 1/2 miles, to road courses, and have done extremely well. I was never near as bad as I am at GT7 w/ a steering wheel and brake setup. I know they aren’t the same thing, but I thought much of it would be similar.

It’s like I simply can’t get it to work in my head. I’m always under steering, or completely out of control, and I can’t seem to get it. Now some things aren’t realistic - like the GTR braking loose and having its rear and come around on me while breaking in a straight line (I’ve personally done this a million times at events). So I don’t know how many other things the game is inserting that don’t align with real world driving, but I’m guessing the issue is really just me not being able to judge things virtually. I can’t feel how fast I’m going for example. And maybe I’m not feeling what I need to get in the wheel.

I’ve only had the new rig setup for a few nights, and I’m playing with the PSVR2, but I had really expected to be further along here.


Has anyone here had this same experience? And if so, any advice on how you improved? Anything you found that really helped you out?
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I can't claim to have driven the leaves of car you have ITRW however I have done karts and muscle cars in both. What you are "missing" is that side to side "seat of the pants" feel from the real car. Best things I have found is let your body move a bit as if you're in a real car. Roll your head with the car in the turns. If you trun right in the game let your head and body roll to the left some as if the g was effecting you. In game you can try the offset setting position and wobble settings. Not sure how all that will effect you with VR so maybe have a trash can handy.
Of course there is the above mentioned FFB settings. Change them one click at time. Make sure that your wheel and pedal calibration is right as well. The throws of the pedals being off can mess you up a bunch.
Switch assets on and off one at a time as well. Some of those cars you mentioned don't really have a way to turn their's off. That maybe another thing throwing you off.

Hope all the helps at least some.
 
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No G forces to work with along with a total lack of fear takes a lot of adapting to. Once you've built some muscle memory based on visual and aural cues, though, things will start clicking into place.

Try driving some of the slower (200-300bhp) road cars in the game as they're a hoot to drive hard while still being forgiving. My regulars for a bit of fun are the Mazda TC, Clio V6, M3 '03 and the new Alpine A110 with it's addicting lift off oversteer. Don't go above sport soft tyres, though. You want a bit of slip to feel and hear what's happening
 
Just a couple of tips:

1. Drive some slower cars for a bit to start to acclimatise to the way GT behaves

2. Brake earlier than you think and do it smoothly on both initial input and letting off either trail braking or not

3. Turn in earlier, the perspective of most GT cams makes it feel like you can start to turn later than you should

4. Console wheels and pedals are very sensitive, much more than car controls and more direct so try to smooth all the motions and inputs out.

Hope some of these may be of help.
 
It takes some time to get accustomed to the lack of G-forces and what the wheel is trying to tell you (assuming you're using a Force Feedback wheel). Different FFB settings make a big difference. Some wheels clip at higher torque (above 4) which means losing all the detail. I'm using the T300RS and I run torque at 3-4 depending on the car/tires and sensitivity at 6.

Make sure the pedals are calibrated correctly in the controller settings. Some of the things suggested above (wobble, offset, cam) don't apply to VR.
 
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readthis13
I’ve only had the new rig setup for a few nights, and I’m playing with the PSVR2, but I had really expected to be further along here.
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3 things.

First, you're gonna need more seat time. Get used to what information is being provided for you and get comfortable adapting to this virtual toy. My first leap forward came when I stopped driving GT4/3 cars and focused on a roadcar with SH, then SM, then SS. Also tinker with setups. You don't have to go mad here, just the diff, trans and swaybars are enough to get crucial feedback on how PD has modeled their physics.

Two, get out of races and dedicate majority of playtime on practice. Solitary runs are not the most exciting, but IMO results in the best ROI. You have to be mindful of getting a grasp of what is the problem you are trying to work on, like trailbraking on entry. Or if you are beyond that, then perhaps settling the chassis before the apex and maximizing the transient stage. The key is to be structured in practice. Mindless runs gets you nowhere and potentially cause more problems.

Three, book a personal session with a credible coach that knows GT7. This has been the most impactful for me. One session was enough for me to see my approach to inputs was completely wrong. If a coaching session is out of reach, then there is always the option for you to post a vid here and seek comments from those that are knowledgable.

If you ever want an opinion about your driving, you can also reach out to me. GL.
 
dabz343
3 things.

First, you're gonna need more seat time. Get used to what information is being provided for you and get comfortable adapting to this virtual toy. My first leap forward came when I stopped driving GT4/3 cars and focused on a roadcar with SH, then SM, then SS. Also tinker with setups. You don't have to go mad here, just the diff, trans and swaybars are enough to get crucial feedback on how PD has modeled their physics.

Two, get out of races and dedicate majority of playtime on practice. Solitary runs are not the most exciting, but IMO results in the best ROI. You have to be mindful of getting a grasp of what is the problem you are trying to work on, like trailbraking on entry. Or if you are beyond that, then perhaps settling the chassis before the apex and maximizing the transient stage. The key is to be structured in practice. Mindless runs gets you nowhere and potentially cause more problems.

Three, book a personal session with a credible coach that knows GT7. This has been the most impactful for me. One session was enough for me to see my approach to inputs was completely wrong. If a coaching session is out of reach, then there is always the option for you to post a vid here and seek comments from those that are knowledgable.

If you ever want an opinion about your driving, you can also reach out to me. GL.
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First off, amazing feedback. I sorta expected to have some garbage responses first, but nope, you came in with very good feedback.

Two, I’m happy to pay for a coach. How do you suggest I go about that? I have coaches in business, have used them for a ton of other things, and am all about them.

Thanks for such a great response.
 
readthis13
First off, amazing feedback. I sorta expected to have some garbage responses first, but nope, you came in with very good feedback.

Two, I’m happy to pay for a coach. How do you suggest I go about that? I have coaches in business, have used them for a ton of other things, and am all about them.

Thanks for such a great response.
Click to expand...

Friend a few people on here, do the circuit experiences not to gold by a whisker but beat the peeps on here or the ghost.

It's mostly muscle memory and practice but also realise there are a lot more peeps faster than you or I even if we set stunning laps the race pace will not be near those in most cases so drive accordingly.

Also you don't have to do solo sessions, make them pay at the sardgena race pick a GR1 car tune it down and just smash the 15 laps out with traffic and depending on how it's going someone to fight against. Just aim for 1:42 or if you are on it 1:38 per lap there are a few guys on here that go faster but they are aliens :)

The reason I suggest this race as it has most of the corner types you'll come across, it has some fast AI depending on ability etc and back markers.

It's also a very very forgiving track and race if you are pushing for 1:37 or 6s

I would add that if you are under steering you are dragging the brakes too hard too long or not braking early enough for the wheel lock you have on.

As I said slow turn in, hard full drive exits are what you are aiming for, not attacking each braking point as that's not the fastest way round a track as you well know.
 
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Abarth_71
What wheel are you using? Some of your issues like lack of feel could be down to the wheel settings. GT7 in game settings can have an effect as well. Set controller sensitivity to 10, FFB max torque to 5 or 6 at most (the signal clips at higher levels), and FFB sensitivity at 1 to start.
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I am using a Fanatec DD 8nM w/ the Porsche GT3 wheel. I’m also using the CSL Elite V2 (with an after market sponge/spring deal to help me feel the 80% point much better, which I just received yesterday and it works really well). I planned to setup a low end rig and also build out a high end one with motion. I’ve set up the low end one to be able to roll into my home theater and easily use with the PS5/PSVR2. The cockpit is a NLR GT Track.

I copied settings I found on the Fanatec forum as being the recommended ones, but oddly, with them and with Auto, I still get a bit of wobble in the wheel at speed. No idea if something is off or what however. This is my first experience with a DD setup.

Link to post with settings I used (bottom of page 24) -> https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/25219/gran-turismo-7-ps4-ps5-fanatec-recommended-settings/p24
 
readthis13
I am using a Fanatec DD 8nM w/ the Porsche GT3 wheel. I’m also using the CSL Elite V2 (with an after market sponge/spring deal to help me feel the 80% point much better, which I just received yesterday and it works really well). I planned to setup a low end rig and also build out a high end one with motion. I’ve set up the low end one to be able to roll into my home theater and easily use with the PS5/PSVR2. The cockpit is a NLR GT Track.

I copied settings I found on the Fanatec forum as being the recommended ones, but oddly, with them and with Auto, I still get a bit of wobble in the wheel at speed. No idea if something is off or what however. This is my first experience with a DD setup.

Link to post with settings I used (bottom of page 24) -> https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/25219/gran-turismo-7-ps4-ps5-fanatec-recommended-settings/p24
Click to expand...
Fanatecs recommended settings haven't been updated since the game launched. These are mine, give them a go. I don't get any oscillation at speed when holding the wheel, but it will occur if you let go of it. There's a lot more detail with them so see what you think.
SEN AUTO
FFB 100
PEAK
NDP OFF
NFR 10
NIN OFF
INT OFF
FEI 100
FOR 110
SPR OFF
DPR OFF
In game settings 5 & 1.
 
readthis13
I am using a Fanatec DD 8nM w/ the Porsche GT3 wheel. I’m also using the CSL Elite V2 (with an after market sponge/spring deal to help me feel the 80% point much better, which I just received yesterday and it works really well). I planned to setup a low end rig and also build out a high end one with motion. I’ve set up the low end one to be able to roll into my home theater and easily use with the PS5/PSVR2. The cockpit is a NLR GT Track.

I copied settings I found on the Fanatec forum as being the recommended ones, but oddly, with them and with Auto, I still get a bit of wobble in the wheel at speed. No idea if something is off or what however. This is my first experience with a DD setup.

Link to post with settings I used (bottom of page 24) -> https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/25219/gran-turismo-7-ps4-ps5-fanatec-recommended-settings/p24
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Reads post. Feels jealous af. Whelp back to these sales calls so I can afford a wheel setup lol
 
Abarth_71
Fanatecs recommended settings haven't been updated since the game launched. These are mine, give them a go. I don't get any oscillation at speed when holding the wheel, but it will occur if you let go of it. There's a lot more detail with them so see what you think.
SEN AUTO
FFB 100
PEAK
NDP OFF
NFR 10
NIN OFF
INT OFF
FEI 100
FOR 110
SPR OFF
DPR OFF
In game settings 5 & 1.
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I think the settings I had copied from that forum thread I mentioned were the following -

SEN Auto
FFB 100
FFS Peak
NDP 60
NFR 35
NIN OFF
INT 6
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR OFF
DPR OFF

In-Game Settings:

Assist Settings:
Countersteering Assistance: Off

Controller Settings:
Controller Steering Sensitivity: 5
Force Feedback Max. Torque: 7
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 10



That said, I'm going to try yours and see how well they work out. When you say in game settings 5 & 1, which ones spedifically are you referring to (as I list 3 settings I copied form the other forum)?
 
readthis13
y yours and see how well they work out. When you say in game settings 5 & 1, which ones spedifically are you referring to (as I list 3 settings I copied form the other forum)?
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FFB max torque 5,.FFB sens 1. I also have controller sensitivity set to 10, suggested though is 5.
 
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Abarth_71
It does.
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How? It affects how quickly the in-game wheel responds to movements made through the wireless controller and it clearly says it's for the wireless controller only. The wheel's movement is mapped 1:1 to the in-game wheel (atleast T300 is) so changing the setting you should see the difference and you don't.
 
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djolliea
How? It affects how quickly the in-game wheel responds to movements made through the wireless controller and it clearly says it's for the wireless controller only. The wheel's movement is mapped 1:1 to the in-game wheel (atleast T300 is) so changing the setting you should see the difference and you don't.
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Try it, turn it all the way down and then put it on 10 and feel the difference. I don't know why the game doesn't say it affects wheels but it does. The suggested setting for it with a wheel seems to be 5.
 
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readthis13
First off, amazing feedback. I sorta expected to have some garbage responses first, but nope, you came in with very good feedback.

Two, I’m happy to pay for a coach. How do you suggest I go about that? I have coaches in business, have used them for a ton of other things, and am all about them.

Thanks for such a great response.
Click to expand...
Sent you a message.
 
Abarth_71
Try it, turn it all the way down and then put it on 10 and feel the difference. I don't know why the game doesn't say it affects wheels but it does. The suggested setting for it with a wheel seems to be 5.
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I read this same thing in the Fanatec thread I posted above. Others have said the controller impacts things. I haven't tested both ways at length to determine this, but I assume others have.
 
readthis13
So I don’t know how many other things the game is inserting that don’t align with real world driving, but I’m guessing the issue is really just me not being able to judge things virtually. I can’t feel how fast I’m going for example. And maybe I’m not feeling what I need to get in the wheel.

Has anyone here had this same experience? And if so, any advice on how you improved? Anything you found that really helped you out?
Click to expand...
Despite some people describing some driving games as "sim", none of them are anything like driving a real car. There is some level of commonality in the skills needed, so people who are good at driving cars in real life are generally going to also be good at driving cars in games once they learn the specifics for a particular game, but it isn't such an exact match that Lewis Hamilton, for example, is setting world record times in GT. He's way better than average, but not the best in the world, that's what I mean by there being some level of commonality in the skills.

In some ways, having a lot of expertise at real world driving is going to make you worse at games, as you'll try to translate your real world experience rather than seeing the driving game as something to learn in its own right. It reminds me of a computer programming aptitude test I once sat for a job after leaving university, where they warned people with computer programming experience that they needed to ignore all their experience and use only the information provided in the test, saying that people with experience often did worse than those with no experience, because they made assumptions based on their experience rather than using only the information in the test.
 
readthis13
I read this same thing in the Fanatec thread I posted above. Others have said the controller impacts things. I haven't tested both ways at length to determine this, but I assume others have.
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Exactly, it's not just my opinion. I've seen it mentioned in the forums as well.
 
RoadRacer2556
I have noticed this happening, with that specific car, since the 1.31 update. Its bizarre.
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Yeah, this makes no sense whatsoever, happened a number of times yesterday on a few different tracks. I ran aftermarket turbos on my GTR, upgraded it past FBO (Full Bolt On), had tested all sorts of aftermarket traction control systems (including off) from ECUTek, etc. That car never behaved like this and I had it at very high speeds. I personally know people that'd run global record setting 1/2 mile events and still had no issues (ESPECIALLY when running the OEM wing - which many would remove for better top end speed). Although at a certain point, they'd install parachutes, but well before that was needed, these cars were far faster than an OEM Nismo...

But anyways, it's a video game, it has it's own sets of rules, we I just have to learn how to play by them.

Abarth_71
Fanatecs recommended settings haven't been updated since the game launched. These are mine, give them a go. I don't get any oscillation at speed when holding the wheel, but it will occur if you let go of it. There's a lot more detail with them so see what you think.
SEN AUTO
FFB 100
PEAK
NDP OFF
NFR 10
NIN OFF
INT OFF
FEI 100
FOR 110
SPR OFF
DPR OFF
In game settings 5 & 1.
Click to expand...
So I ran with these settings, and I do think I much preferred them. I didn't split test them w/ the others, but I played a few hours last night and seemed to enjoy it much more. I also turned countersteering assist back on to the lowest setting, and that helped a ton as some of these cars behave like they're on ice. Especially MR and RR cars. The Bugatti GR3 car feels like the rear is racing the front end.




I wonder if anyone knows - does the Next Level Racing motion gear work with Sim Racing Studio? I looked online and can't seem to find anything on it.

If so, I'm guessing that due to it reading data from GT7, you'd be able to output motion to their products. That seat might help me understand when the back end is breaking loose.
 

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