CSL adjustments that I have done:
A) The stock ones, shown here in Fanatec's images from their site:
These are doable for all CSL seats, however as I noted above they do not lend themselves to frequent back and forth driver swaps very well since some adjustments affect others such that tools and an iteration or two are needed to optimize matters.
B) Base mount from CSL stand to CSL seat wheel base hoop. Most of the time my much modded CSR-E wheel base is mounted to the CSL seat without using the steel sheet metal angle that comes with CSR-E / CSW bases. And I also dispensed with the CSL seat's aluminum alloy rectangular base mounting tube, the one with many holes that then picks up the steel pin that extend through the base mounting hoop that goes over your legs. The sheet metal plate from the CSL stand is rectangular, I cut this down to a triangular form corresponding to the three mounting holes on the bottom of CSR-E / CSW bases. So this small trianglular plate then gets bolts to the bottom of my wheel base. Under that plate is the stock CSL stand angle pivot and cut-off receiver from the stand tube. The other end of that pivot tube has steel tubes clamped / welded to it which extend out from it sideways to perpendicularly mounted split tubes which in turn slide over the CSL seat's stock bent steel pins that in turn mount through the CSL seat's wheel base hoop. Mostly this adds a cleaner appearance, but it also adds some more adjustment. For instance angle is directly and continually adjustable via the CSL stand's pivot. And the base can be adjusted closer/further from the driver's chest via the welded on tubes that pick up the CSL seat's base hoop pins a few inches. Some height adjustment too. The stock bits do work for base mounting but this approach pretty much involves stacking adapters on top of adapters. By doing what I have done, the base can be removed from the CSL seat via ONE bolt (the CSL stand's angle pivot bolt) and then remounted to a CSL stand via ONE bolt for stand use or for an easy mod stand for servicing / tuning / etc. I have a few other variations to this basic concept.
C) Lumbar. Old photo:
D) I have lots of switches and remote adjusters added here and there...this is an out of date example from when I did shifting differently along with a subsequent e-brake mod. I have switches and pots in place for pedal stuff, motors, cooling,
E) Isolation for pedal vibes. I use a way stronger than stock ABS vibe motor setup on the brake pedal. I found it beneficial to do this since the stock brake pedal motors are just repurposed hand controller units and so are very weak compare to real car ABS pedal pulses. Using way stronger vibrators, I noticed that IMO too much vibe came into the CSL seat frame and so was too apparent at the wheel base / shifter / e-brake / seat. This involved rubber decoupling bushings so that the pedal vibes stay in that region like IRL. The ABS motor strength and frequency are both independently adjustable. The motor is driven by a separate power supply from the base. The stock signal from the base is used to trigger a simple relay. Frequency is changed via counterweight / motor RPM, I use way lower than stock combined with some stock signal via two stock motors also in use. Strength via my remote adjuster up by the driver.
F) Seatback angles. I added threaded rod adjusters to the L and R tubes that form the lateral support on each side of the seat. These turn hence change in length thus providing additional back angle adjustment independent from seat base angle adjustment via the stock method.
G) Lots of other stuff, I try things out all the time.
