Kruger National Park – South Africa 23 Oct – 6 Nov 2012

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AMG.

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Usually you can bet on it that I spend my photographic holidays Africa, mostly in Kenya or Tanzania but after years of pondering I finally decided to give the Kruger a chance. I was supposed to go on a Kruger & Botswana tour mid Sept together with other photographers but the deal fell through. The alternative was Kenya again and all was set to go, but at the last moment the local agant would not confirm my lodgings so that was the second cancellation I received at shiort notice. I still wanted to see the Kruger so I booked a private tour with a local Photosafari company.

After an 11 hour flight from Amsterdam to Jo’burg I arrived late in my hotel only to find out that they were fully booked. Oh great, I had already let them know in advace that I would be arriving late. They upgraded me to a 5 star hotel, all I wanted was a bed to sleep in and preferably as fast as possible, it was midnight and I had been up since 05:00. Next morning I returned to OR Tambo airport for a one hour flight to Nelspruit.

Jaco Venter picked me up in a Nissan Safari ‘bakkie’ that was converted to a photography vehicle. Wild4 Photographic Safaris was the organisation I booked my private tour with. My trip was loosely built on their Kruger & Bit Cat trip + extension.

The safari:
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1. My trip

Jaco and I took of towards the Numbi gate of the Kruger and settled in to Pretorius Kop camp. Two nights we stayed here as we went on various trips to discover the wildlife. The rainy season had already started so everything was green and impenetrable for the camera. At first I thought ‘what am I doing here’ but bear with me it gets better. From Pretorius Kop we made our way to Skukuza camp for a 2 night stay and after that a 4 night stay at Satara. We would go out early (05:30) and return for a late breakfast around 11:00 or so. In the evening we would throw a boerewors on the braai and eat this with some breadrolls and a coke.
The bush changes to more open areas as you travel northwards from our starting point. I am so used to open plains of East Africa so this was a bit of a shock at first.
Kruger lodgings
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2. The three camps I stayed at in Kruger look mostly like this.

Exiting Kruger at Orpen gate, where I had an excellent double espresso, I made my way to Thsukudu Game Lodge, a 2 night stay full board. After that I was taken to Moholoholo Forest Lodge for a 2 night stay full board and from there to Hoedspruit Airport to Jo’burg and back to Amsterdam. All 3 Kruger lodges have a braai outside, but Skukuza even had some pots and pans so we could enjoy boerewors with baked beans. The Kruger section was self catering.

Wild 4:
Is an excellent Photo Safari operator run by a dedicated professional photographer, Stu Porter. Their vehicles have been adapted for photographers and go beyond the normal outfit of safari vehicles. Stu’s wife Justyna runs the administration and they can rely on parents to step in where needed. Jaco Venter is a qualified ranger making a name for himself as a professional photographer and he accompanied me on this trip as my guide driver and more important a new found friend. He’s very service minded, knowledgeable and patient young man. Jaco divides his time between guiding for Wild4 and working as the head ranger at Thsukudu lodge.

Gear:
Two Canon bodies (1DIV, 1DsIII), 20-35mm, 28-70mm, 70-200mm, 500mm, 1.4x. Gitzo tripod used only for indoor shots, Wimberley WH200, flash, pocket wizards, cleaning equipment, various chargers, CF cards, spare batteries, flashlight, Macbook Air, 2 external hard drives, 2 card readers and various bits and pieces.
Hand luggage was a fully packed ThinkTank backpack approx. 16 kgs and another 16 kgs of checked luggage most of which was photo equipment too. I never pack a lot of clothes as these can be washed at camps. Note to self - Next time bring the 100 Macro too.

Wildlife:
Starting from Pretorius Kop where the bush is thick it started off a bit disappointing, I had no idea what to expect and I am more familiar with Serengeti and Maasai Mara. We didn’t see to much wildlife but what we did see stayed put. It’s as if the soil contains invisible glue. I am so used to Impala and Warthogs fleeing as soon as you stop resulting in mostly bumshots but here in the Kruger no such thing. They stay, wow!

Bateleur Eagle, Black collared Barber, Black headed Bulbul, Broodboom, Cape Buffalo, Egyptian Geese, Elephant, European bee eater, Fish eagle, Giraffe, Green dove, Grey heron, Hippo, Impala, iPad, Jacana, Klipspringer, Kudu, Lion, Oxpecker, Pintailed Paradise Whydah, Red billed buffalo Weaver, Red crested Bustard, Southern Black Mask Weaver, Southern ground hornbill, Superb starling, Tortoise Leopard, Chameleon, Waterbuck, White Rhino, Whitefaced Wesling duck, Zebra.

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3. White rhino reflections

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4. Lion affection

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5. African hawk eagle


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6. Lion cubs

Yes, an iPad was observed too. We were watching lions mating in the distance and a car pulled up next to us. Rear passenger window rolls down and out comes an iPad to film the scene. I relied on a 500mm lens to capture the scene (frame filling) but I am selling all my stuff and will take my iPad along for future Safaris. It must give some amazing results. I wish I had known this beforehand.

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7. Scops owl, a permanent resident of Skukuza camp

Around Skukuza where the bush changes to more open plains chances of seeing animals improved. The following are additional animals photographed:
Baboon, Black headed Bulbul, Brown Snake Eagle, Bushbuck, Cape Wagtail, Cattle Egret, Crocodile, Fire finch, Green backed heron, Hoopoe, Lappet faced vulture, Longtailed Shrikes, Martial Eagle, Mopani caterpillar, Ostrich, Reed Cormorant, Tawny Eagle, Vervet monkey, Wattled Starling, Wildebeest.

At and around Satara camp I photographed the following.
African Hawk Eagle, Ants, Black backed Jackal, Blacksmith plover, Blue tailed skink, Cape vulture, Crested Franklin, Dung beetle, Fish eagle, Giant Plated Lizard, Hyena, Jacana, Kori Bustard, Leopard, Lilacbreasted Roller, Red billed hornbill, Red crested Barbet, Scops Owl, Terrapin turtle, Warthog, Water Thicknee, Yellow billed Hornbill, Zebra.
Observed were the African Wild cat and Honey Badger.

Thsukudu Game Lodge:
African wild cat, African Wild dog, Blue waxbill, Cape Buffalo, Caracal, Cheetah, Crested Franklin, Elephant, Hippo, King cheetah, Kudu, Leopard, Lion, Red billed buffalo Weaver, Red billed hornbill, Southern Black Mask Weaver, White Rhino. Observed was a black Mamba.
Guests of Wild4 who visit Thsukudu are in for a real treat. It offers the opportunity to photograph big cats up close and I did a day and night shoot with leopard.

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8 & 9. Me at Tshukuda game reserve

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10. Tshukudu game lodge


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11 &12 leopard

Forest Camp and Reptile park:
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13. Forest camp lodge

Black mamba, Blue-and-yellow Macaw, Boom slang, Brown hooded Kingfisher, Eland, Flap neck chameleon, Gaboon viper, Giant Plated Lizard, Golden Brown baboon spider, Green Mamba, Guinea fowl, Iguana, Leopard Gekko, Marabu stork, Nyala, Ostrich, Puff adder, Rock Monitor lizard, Rock python, Snouted Cobra, Spitting Cobra, Sungazer lizard, Leopard Tortoise, Warthog, White backed vulture, Yellow Rat snake, Yemen chameleon.
Again thanks to Wild4 I was given the opportunity to photograph above mentioned reptiles in their natural environment.

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14. Green mamba

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15. Boom slang

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16. Flap neck chameleon

The Kruger is, despite the rainy season, a reserve I will definitely revisit but most likely in another season (Jun-Aug). The opportunities I got at Thsukudu & Forest camp/Reptile park were fabulous BUT these can only happen when booking with Wild4.

Flying back from Hoedspruit to Jo'burg I stayed at the most relaxed and quaint airport I've ever come across.

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17. Hoedspruit outdoors lounge
 
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Absolutely beautiful. I really love the pictures of the lion couple and the green mamba. 👍
 
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Sounds like a great trip, would like to do something like that one day. Some great shots too 👍
 
Awesome. I would love a holiday like that. There is just one problem, I can deal with the lions and stuff, but spiders and snakes are my weak spot... I absolutely hate them. :)

Anyway hope you had a good time, and you got some really nice pictures there 👍
 
Thanks for the story AMG :cheers:. I am glad you had an enjoyable trip, after the logistical issues were sorted out.

There are some excellent pictures amongst the ones you've posted; the lion cubs trotting along, the eagle just in flight, the green mamba and the chameleon are stand-outs 👍
 
Thx guys, it was my most memorable trip so far. We were taking out the cheetahs on a hunt when we bumped in to a very fresh lion kill. Cheetah & lion don't go together at all so Jaco scared off the lions from their kudu kill. They were just about to dig in. We called for help and 2 young rangers helped Jaco and me to get the kudu on to the rear or our truck. Alas it weighed too much so he cut of a front and hind leg and repositioned the kudu and waited for the lions to return. I asked him why he only cut off 2 legs. He said I don't want to ruin your feeding shots.

He then apologised for the commotion caused. I told him that it was already too late in the evening to get decent shots and the lions were still skittish in approaching their kill. Mentioned to him that I'd seen and photographed enough lions feeding on kills and that no one is interested in seeing bloody ribs etc. but I had much more fun in what we had just tried to accomplish. We found the cheetah soon enough and lured them back to a bushcamp where we left them to feed on one of the legs he'd cut off.

We picked them up early next morning.
 
You lucky bastard . . . but, then again, you probably earned it. Nice shots, so clean and very representative. Four-poster beds? :lol: Can't remember when I last slept in one of those, though done many times. Was there a problem with mossies?
Would have loved to see a shot of the Jacana - was it purple?
Also - kudus! Literally! Haha!
Nice one, AMG. 👍 Thanks for sharing.
 
Yes, an iPad was observed too. We were watching lions mating in the distance and a car pulled up next to us. Rear passenger window rolls down and out comes an iPad to film the scene. I relied on a 500mm lens to capture the scene (frame filling) but I am selling all my stuff and will take my iPad along for future Safaris. It must give some amazing results. I wish I had known this beforehand.

I see the same thing at air shows! Phones and tablets, usually shooting video. The aircraft aren't much more than pixels in the image, but everybody's shooting! After all, it only take one hand to hold a phone!!!!! :crazy:
 
Was there a problem with mossies?
Would have loved to see a shot of the Jacana - was it purple?
Mossies - not a problem at all, I heard one or two outside and got bitten by one but that was it.

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African jacana.

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Jacaranda
Never seen a purple Jacana, are you perhaps referring to the jacaranda (tree). The jacarandas were in bloom and I did see a fair few of then around Nelspruit.
 
Great shots, and an amazing adventure. If I ever find enough money, I'd love to do the same thing.
 
How wonderful is this thread? Talk about a nice change of pace, eh? :lol: We are glad that you enjoyed your trip, and thank you so much for sharing these amazing images with us. I think we all agree here that it's quite a treat! 👍

P.S. I'm so bad with cameras, I probably would take better pictures with an iPad. :lol:
 
Truly amazing AMG 👍

Beautiful pics, glad to hear and see that you had a great time.
 
Mossies - not a problem at all, I heard one or two outside and got bitten by one but that was it.

I'm surprised to hear that (pleasantly, of course.) Maybe there is a season for them - over here it's really bad from around mid-June to late August!

Never seen a purple Jacana, are you perhaps referring to the jacaranda (tree). The jacarandas were in bloom and I did see a fair few of then around Nelspruit.

Not surprised you have never seen a purple Jacana - because I was actually mixing things up there :lol: Thanks for the gracious correction. I was actually thinking of the Gallinule when you mentioned the Jacana.
I used to live by a small grove of Jacaranda trees once - whitish bark (almost like Birch but thinner, and looking like a really bad paint job that was peeling) - the tree when in full bloom was gloriously filled with blooms, the earth underfoot covered with a carpet of them.
Strangely enough, there was also a lily-pond nearby - at which the occasional Jacana could be spotted - if one was quiet for long enough.

Interested to see more of what you shot. 👍
 
Talk about living a dream. You and the Leopards look like old friends, and considering the obstacles you guys faced in the beginning of the trip, it all seemed to fall into place at the right time. Great great story and photoshoot AMG, you rock. :gtplanet: :cheers:
 
Mambas, booms slang, leopards . . . AMG lives a most dangerous life, one I hope to emulate some day. My pipe dream.

And as always . . . the impeccable photography. 👍
 
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