Like the wind at indy...try this ZR1 RM tune
- Thread starter jorday
- 206 comments
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- Pangaea
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Hi I love the setup, but I would like to advise on one slight change, try turning the gearing down to 249, you'll be doing about 3-5mph more on the straights, which only adds up to a second or so per race, but every little helps
Hey guys I'm glad to see that many of you seem to have had good luck with my tune and are enjoying it. I played with it for a long time before I felt it was right for this. 
I don't always pay attention to lap times because I did a lot of grinding, but I think I did a 41.4 once when I caught a draft from a car I was lapping at just the right time. You can still crack into the 41s without the draft.
Hi, thanks for your feedback about the gearing. That works. There was a reason that I set the gearing a tiny bit taller, and it was to stop the engine from ever having to run at redline and thus increasing time between engine rebuilds as they are fairly expensive in this car. I think the game is actually smart enough to make the engine last significantly longer if you do this, as it would definitely be the case in real life.
I change the oil in the car every 5 races. After 3,000 miles and 250 wins of use it still hadn't lost a single hp with these gearing settings. At 3500 miles it finally lost 1 hp, so the engine really lasted a long, long time before it even indicated even tiny signs of wear.
I just have them set at 5/5 for use on indy.
I don't always pay attention to lap times because I did a lot of grinding, but I think I did a 41.4 once when I caught a draft from a car I was lapping at just the right time. You can still crack into the 41s without the draft.
yes it will pay for entire cost of the car in less than 1 hour easily. probably more like 1/2 hour if you are at a high enough level to run in the american championship.
Hi, thanks for your feedback about the gearing. That works. There was a reason that I set the gearing a tiny bit taller, and it was to stop the engine from ever having to run at redline and thus increasing time between engine rebuilds as they are fairly expensive in this car. I think the game is actually smart enough to make the engine last significantly longer if you do this, as it would definitely be the case in real life.
I change the oil in the car every 5 races. After 3,000 miles and 250 wins of use it still hadn't lost a single hp with these gearing settings. At 3500 miles it finally lost 1 hp, so the engine really lasted a long, long time before it even indicated even tiny signs of wear.
Most of us seem to be able to do it. It could be that you need to make a small adjustment to your driving lines through the turns.
Also if you say you hit the wall almost every time, then that means that some of the time you are not hitting it. So whatever you're doing on the turns when you manage to stay off the wall, keep doing that.
Rotary Junkie
Premium
- 9,810
- Canton, MI
- RJs_RX-7
Most of us seem to be able to do it. It could be that you need to make a small adjustment to your driving lines through the turns.
Also if you say you hit the wall almost every time, then that means that some of the time you are not hitting it. So whatever you're doing on the turns when you manage to stay off the wall, keep doing that.
Oddly with exactly zero changes to setup, my Z06 has become able to go WOT all the way around Indy on racing soft tires. It started getting progressively closer on mediums so I tried softs and voila. Could be that the extremely worn chassis is helping it somehow.
- 38
- Tado921
If it is RM, you can win with it. You have to maintain a very steady pace because the other racers will be on your tail the entire time, one mess up and they go flying by.
I won with my RM ZR1 by less than 5 seconds for each race, the last one I won by 0.5. Just about to pass me was the Mazda 787B.
hmmm....i sure wish i had an answer for you. it sounds like you are really having a lot of trouble compared to everyone else which would seem to suggest that something isn't right somewhere.When i'm not hitting the wall i have to take my finger of the gas ...
first, maybe check your mod list. make sure you have not missed buying chassis stiffening, soft racing tires any weight reduction mods that didn't come with the race modification,
then, try double checking all the settings. don't forget to reduce the rear downforce from full, adjust the diff settings and make sure the soft tires are selected after you bought them. It's easy to miss something sometimes.
if none of that works try turning on the racing line and following it through the turns. on turn 1 it almost seems like you have turn in a split second sooner than the other 3 turns.
most of us use all aids off like you are, but if you're still having problems as a last gasp effort set skid recovery force = on and see if that does anything.
you might be right that the game does not keep track of wear based on engine speed. i was just mostly just explaining that there was a reason why i set it like that, and the thought process behind why i did it. Reason i thought that is because i have seen a handfull of guys saying that they had like a 40 hp drop in this car due to engine wear, and based on my results, if mileage was the only thing the game uses to determine engine wear, i can't imagine how long it would take for my car to lose 40 hp when it only lost 1 hp after close to 4000 miles of use. whether it actually makes a difference or not remains to be seen, but yes dropping the gears down a step will reduce your lap times.
that is interesting man thanks for posting that info. i guess that one way to determine if the worn out chassis or just the tires is the difference maker would be to build another brand new ZO6 although this would not be the most cost efficient way.
kazz,
I just parked the formula gt for a minute and took the trusty zr1 to indy to earn some quick cash. i also had the idea that maybe something had changed with today's update...
I never let go of the gas once the whole race, and never touched the wall. total time for the race was 3:34.7. Every lap except for lap 1 was a 41.7 something. you definitely have to enter the turns correctly or else no you will not make it without crashing into the wall.
let us know if you get it figured out or not.
I just parked the formula gt for a minute and took the trusty zr1 to indy to earn some quick cash. i also had the idea that maybe something had changed with today's update...
I never let go of the gas once the whole race, and never touched the wall. total time for the race was 3:34.7. Every lap except for lap 1 was a 41.7 something. you definitely have to enter the turns correctly or else no you will not make it without crashing into the wall.
let us know if you get it figured out or not.
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
I'm not quite sure I understand the need for this 'Tune' seeing as how you can obtain the same outcome with the default suspension settings. The only adjustments needed are downforce and transmission top speed, and viola you can win with never lifting, and without touching the suspension!
Now, having said that, your tune seems to have a bit more grip and rotates easier, making it more agile and maneuverable. For the masses, this is what you should all be looking for, when looking for a mindless grind tune, or as you defined "A no brainer". So in that aspect I commend you, Jorday, it's a great tune.
Unfortunately, for me, it made the car want to cut too low in the center of the corners, and I caught myself bouncing off of the berm in corners 3 and 4 enough times to stick out. And I also experienced a slight 'twitch' from time to time on the exit when trying to get straightened up.
In my hands: 3 runs(15 laps) your tune got me a 41.840
This is excluding the first 2 laps of every race, to avoid any possible draft effecting the times. You're pulling of .7's which is more than likely that you're simply a better driver than me, but as to salvage my pride, I want to throw in that my vette is still breaking in, and for these 3 runs, the HP started at 880 and ended at 895.
However with the Default Suspension I ran a 41.824.
This single run(5 laps), was run third in line, to ensure no HP advantage. Your Tune #1, Your Tune #2, Default Tune, Your Tune #3. My best time with your tune, was in fact from Run #3, but I did run 2 other .8's in the previous runs. In all 4 runs, I used the same Downforce & transmission settings, to ensure fairness. 35/53 and 249 respectively.
Then for fun, I decided to throw on RKM's Z06 tune.
Please note, his build was designed for the Z06 not the ZR1, I was simply curious since someone mentioned their tune. With RKM's tune, I ran 41.905, a touch slower. RKM's tune felt more stable throughout the track, but had much less room for error. Miss your mark on turn 1, and this tune will have you in the wall. Mind you this is under the requirement that you never lift. This tune, was also combined with the same Downforce and Tranny settings as all of the above tests, and for this run the HP was at 888.
The RKM tune can be found here: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=136731&page=4#post4259821
As for Kazz, I simply recommend bumping your downforce all the way up to max(60), and that should help you avoid hitting the walls.
Thanks to both Jorday as well as Rotary Junkie for the opportunity to try out your tunes. It actually removed any feeling of 'griding' for cash, because I was just having some fun testing out some tunes. So thank you for that!
so actually, you ran a tiny bit better time with the default suspension settings?
I just tried what you said...took my settings returned suspension to default and set transmission to 249 with all else being equal...that's what you did right?
every time i entered the turn at full speed the car slid DIRECTLY into the wall...like, the car smacked the wall hard, and it was not even remotely close to being able to make the turn after returning the suspension settings to default.
hmm...something HAS to be different that we are failing to consider that's allowing you to get through those corners. if it was that easy to win with the stock settings then no one would have any trouble winning this race with the zr1 in the like the wind challenge, but LOTS of people have trouble winning that one until they make some changes in the suspension. are you using some of the driving aids? i have them all set to off.
i'm at a loss for words. i'm not doubting you though. if you say you did it then i believe you, but for the life of me i can't figure out how.
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
Looking back through your notes, and the only difference I can find, is that I didn't perform the Chassis Rigidity Upgrade. The only reason I skipped that, was because from what I've read it tightens the car up, and I prefer my cars on the free side. Other than that, the only thing I can think of, is I didn't mention Soft Race Slick Tires, but I assumed that was consistent across all tunes discussed. I'll go double check everything and re-run the race to be positive, because now you have me doubting myself, mainly because I agree, that they're shouldn't be as many people who needed this tune, as we both see clearly there were. So, give me 10 min, I'll go verify.
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
Good news and Bad News...
Bad news is, I'm still full throttle without touching the wall.
Good news is, Did an oil change, hit 905hp and ran a 41.744!
The only other possible confusion I can think of, is if you're still in the draft for some reason? Which would cause higher top speeds and make you less likely to remain full throttle through the corners. To clarify, I want to make sure you know, I do let off the gas when I'm making my way through traffic, but once I'm in front, I never let up. Just wanted to clear that up, just in case you're referring to the first 2-4 corners where drafting is in play?
Edit: No aids on, except driving line. ABS @ 1.
Bad news is, I'm still full throttle without touching the wall.
Good news is, Did an oil change, hit 905hp and ran a 41.744!
The only other possible confusion I can think of, is if you're still in the draft for some reason? Which would cause higher top speeds and make you less likely to remain full throttle through the corners. To clarify, I want to make sure you know, I do let off the gas when I'm making my way through traffic, but once I'm in front, I never let up. Just wanted to clear that up, just in case you're referring to the first 2-4 corners where drafting is in play?
Edit: No aids on, except driving line. ABS @ 1.
Last edited:
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
Everything is default, except Downforce and Tranny.
Including, LSD, the entire suspension, and... I guess those are the only other tunable things, lol.
Did you make sure to set your LSD back to default? I doubt it's the reason, but only thing I can come up with, unless you swapped tires to something less? I can make a video if necessary, but I assume some other testers could verify this for me?
downforce 35/53
trans 249
diff 10/40/20
ride height 0/0
spring rate 12.3/12.6
dampers ext 5/5
dampers comp 5/5
roll bars 4/4
camber -1.0/-0.5
toe 0.0/0.20
brakes 5/5
tires racing soft/soft
if i set everything to default save for downforce and transmission. this is what you are using to run 41.something?
i wish i could show you a video of what happens if I try to use these settings. i can't even make it around the 2nd corner of the race without hitting the wall.
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
- 1,019
- johnkiller2
Jorday,
Cool with another ZR-1 RM tune. I posted mine about three weeks ago when the game was still fairly new (ZR-1 RM tune to win all-star).
It's always interesting to compare tunes and see if there are different concepts. I find our tunes very similar however. You have some settings a bit more extreme which should make the car potentially faster but a bit more challanging to drive.
Cool with another ZR-1 RM tune. I posted mine about three weeks ago when the game was still fairly new (ZR-1 RM tune to win all-star).
It's always interesting to compare tunes and see if there are different concepts. I find our tunes very similar however. You have some settings a bit more extreme which should make the car potentially faster but a bit more challanging to drive.
- 3,359
- California
- PumpinNumbies
Got a video, showing all the settings and the full race. Of course I tapped the wall twice when the camera is on, but regardless, 41.8, 41.9, 41.9 and then my best at 41.723 on the final lap in the video. Have an email I can send it to? Will take a while to upload to youtube.
Edit: It's in .Mov form, if that matters.
Quicktime based, but .Mov is usually supported by most players.
Edit: It's in .Mov form, if that matters.
Quicktime based, but .Mov is usually supported by most players.
sail, i actually won gt all stars with a tune that was very similar to yours. i tried your tune, but it was too much for me early on and i lost control of the car a lot, so i had to come up with something more tame.
i developed this tune turning more than 1,000 laps at indy. it was by chance that we arrived at the same dampener and roll bar settings, but you definitely figured them out first. any change from these numbers seem to hurt the car i think. simply stated, they are perfect. imo most guys get these wrong by using too low of settings for the dampeners, and the result is that they are too soft to control the car's weight properly which makes it act funny on the bumpy tracks.
for camber, i always automatically add 1.0 degrees of negative camber to the front and rear of every car in the game.
i developed this tune turning more than 1,000 laps at indy. it was by chance that we arrived at the same dampener and roll bar settings, but you definitely figured them out first. any change from these numbers seem to hurt the car i think. simply stated, they are perfect. imo most guys get these wrong by using too low of settings for the dampeners, and the result is that they are too soft to control the car's weight properly which makes it act funny on the bumpy tracks.
for camber, i always automatically add 1.0 degrees of negative camber to the front and rear of every car in the game.
you can email the video to jpcyclone@aol.com if you like
- 527
- slick1ru2
Sounds like my times, low 40s. I think the only thing that matters is top speed and downforce. I use 50 on the back instead of 53.
- 1,019
- johnkiller2
Just so you don't get me wrong, I didn't mean that you took my tune and claimed it to be yours. This forum is about charing info. Its really cool to see how arrived to similar numbers by your extensive testing.
Knowing that you tuned specifically for Indy, I can see how your tune improves when you have masses of downforce at high speed. When you take your tune on a track, is it easier to drive than mine. I thought the opposite, but I might very well be wrong
I fully tuned my ZR1 before i got it RM'ed, and then added the rest of the tune to the car when it was RM'ed. I manage to get it up to 849 BHP.
I bought all the extras; Soft tires, oil change etc.
You mention that you get it over 900 BHP?
Maybe I should buy a new ZR1 and use RM first and then buy the extra tunes... It's just expensive. But i get 45k for a 7th place every time I try haha.
I bought all the extras; Soft tires, oil change etc.
You mention that you get it over 900 BHP?
Maybe I should buy a new ZR1 and use RM first and then buy the extra tunes... It's just expensive. But i get 45k for a 7th place every time I try haha.
