Meet, Taylor.

8,846
Canada
Ottawa
Automotive_Buff
Taylor, meet the lovely folks of GTP.

GTP, meet the cutest minitruck, Taylor! (Be nice... first time on here, and he's very nervous.... I wouldn't blame him, parked in front of that 3500 - my friend's)

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A little back story. He's a 2007 Ford Ranger Sport Regular Cab 4x2 with a 3.0L Vulcan V6 mated to an M50D-R1 transmisson, AKA Taylor :dopey:. (Coyote V8 swaps planned sometime in the future)

I got Taylor back in January. Picked him up at an auction for $7900. Basically stole it from another bidder at the last second. He had 42,000km when we bought him, and now he's at 45, 867km, IIRC -not bad for three months. I had to let my dad handle him for a bit while I was away. Came home for the summer and the first thing I did was coat the entire chassis with asphalt.

Went over to a friend's house, 3500 Sierra owner, and got him to help me unbolt and remove the bed off of Taylor.

He looked a bit funny, kinda naked. (Sorry no pics of the process.... I know :( ) First, we had to remove the bed lining. A bit hard since he had 7 years old adhesive under the lining. Once that was off, grabbed a torque wrench and removed the bolts. Simple. 6 bolts in total. Two long ones at the front (near the cabin) and four short ones near the tailgate.

The bed weighed about 80kg. Had to remove the lid first, which weighed another 20kg.

Once we removed that, we had to scrape off the rust with wire brushes. Thankfully it was minor. It was everywhere, but minor. I kept on going to Canadian Tire for supplies.

While the asphalt was drying, I had the "smart" idea of painting my reserve wheel silver chrome. It looks nice, but I didn't cover the tire wall, so I got some on there :lol:

12 cans of undercoating and a cashier's phone number later, he was looking shiny and happy, just like his owner.

He's my little puppy who wants attention ALL THE TIME! But I love him :D

Bonus: Fall

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I was thinking of getting him winter tires and new rims to go with them. I'm thinking steelies.

What do you guys think of these?

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Or these?

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Bottom ones. I'd only say top ones if they were slotted like the old school F250 steel wheels.

Anyways, nice truck. Take care of it. The M5OD is a rather crap transmission (being a Ford guy this is pretty well known) so don't beat on it too hard and it'll last you.

A Coyote swap would be cool but wayyyy too expensive. If you want a V8 I would recommend some other type of small block Ford. 302/351, I've even seen big block 390s in these. Only reason being is they are cheaper, have epic aftermarket support and have kits that just drop in with wiring kits making it almost bolt in. You'll also need a transmission and rear end. Believe me, you'll probably be happy with even a stock to mild 302 for a while after you pull the V6.
 
Yeah the M50D from Mazda is pretty weak. I'm granny shifting at 2000 RPM and cruising at 1500 RPM.

As for the steelies I'm thinking black chrome might go well. Maybe shined up steelies likw this one:

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For the swap, I need a cheap V8 that's 2007-present. Otherwise the MOT won't pass my car.
 
Yeah the M50D from Mazda is pretty weak. I'm granny shifting at 2000 RPM and cruising at 1500 RPM.

It will hold up at any RPM provided you don't slam gears and neutral drop it all the time.

As for the steelies I'm thinking black chrome might go well. Maybe shined up steelies likw this one:

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Those are quite nice; they remind me a lot of mind '90s OBS "Aeronose" Ford pickup wheels:

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For the swap, I need a cheap V8 that's 2007-present. Otherwise the MOT won't pass my car.
Unfortunately, you won't legally pass inspection with a V8 period, because a V8 was not offered in it. It won't pass smog at all.
 
No I know I won't pass. I will pass if it's registered as a hot rod. There is a law that states that an engine has to be of the same year or younger. Can't fit an older engine
 
No I know I won't pass. I will pass if it's registered as a hot rod. There is a law that states that an engine has to be of the same year or younger. Can't fit an older engine
I knew you could register it as a hot rod; but that's if the DMV will pass it upon visual inspection. They can be picky sometimes.

A Coyote swap would be sweet though, but prepare to shell out some money because it's gonna cost you almost $8,000 just for the engine and the ECU "Control Pack". Not the mention the wheels, tires, ignition, rear axle, transmission, engine mounts, radiator, radiator core support, subframe connectors, various hoses etc. You're looking at somewhere well over $12k just to do this swap. You'd almost be better off keeping this as your DD, and buying an older Ranger. You can do that, have the benefit of no emissions, any engine you want, and there's swap in kits designed specifically for this. You could have a 500+hp Ranger with a 393 or 408 stroker engine for under $7k easily.

You also have to factor in cost of the vehicle. You've already dumped nearly $8,000 just for the truck alone. You can pick up a clean older one for about 1/5th of that. When all is said and done, you'd have a newer vehicle and drivetrain, but you'd be paying 10x the money for less go fast, equal MPG's and arguably worse aftermarket support.

I'm totally not saying don't go for it, I'm just trying to think smart if you're on a budget. It's simply not cost effective.
 
There is no budget, as of now.... thankfully.

Three options:

  • Do the Coyote swap.
  • Bore and stroke the hell out of the V6 and use a new intake manifold and exhaust system and new transmission, and axle, etc.
  • Buy an '83 Ranger (no emmissions testing) and have at it.
I would love to do a V8 swap for a daily driver. Then again, V6's can perform well if they're built properly. As for the '83 Ranger I need to go to the states. Somewhere like Cali or Nevada. The rust won't be as bas as up north.

Also another three choices for the stance:

  • Drop it three inches, PROPERLY
  • Raise it three to four inches and slap on some 33" tires.
  • Keep it stock.
These are all options for the next three to four years. I'm already keeping it stock and clean. Except for the bolts off the bed, that I painted blue, and the reserve wheel that I painted
chrome silver.
 
Props to that man for keeping it under control. The Ranger's cabin is really small inside, you need to shuffle the steering wheel.
 
Taylor's dirty.... AGAIN!

I was washing him yesterday. It was drizzling - I hate drizzle; either rain or don't dammit - and the neighbor walked up.

"You got a hot date or something??"

"Umm... no...." *awkward smile*

"I was just wondering, because you're cleaning your truck."

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Apparently I need a hot date to clean my car. It's not sociably acceptable to clean your car, just 'cause.


Pics later today. Have to do some work first.
 
Also another three choices for the stance:

  • Drop it three inches, PROPERLY
  • Raise it three to four inches and slap on some 33" tires.
  • Keep it stock.
Having lowered Rangers in the past, I can tell you it's not the easiest vehicle to drop. Maybe the kits are better now but 10 years ago they weren't spectacular.

Also having owned a lowered truck for 3 years, it's not the easiest thing to drive around either. You need to really watch where you are driving and be prepared to swap out struts pretty frequently too.

You'd probably do the best if you just left it the stock height.
 
Having lowered Rangers in the past, I can tell you it's not the easiest vehicle to drop. Maybe the kits are better now but 10 years ago they weren't spectacular.

Also having owned a lowered truck for 3 years, it's not the easiest thing to drive around either. You need to really watch where you are driving and be prepared to swap out struts pretty frequently too.

You'd probably do the best if you just left it the stock height.


It's a 4x2 so, there really is no point in me raising it for offroading. I'm not going to get far using RWD. However, dropping it with some stiff competition kits might be a better option.

I don't know. We'll see how things go.

What kind of truck did/do you drive around?
 
It's a 4x2 so, there really is no point in me raising it for offroading. I'm not going to get far using RWD. However, dropping it with some stiff competition kits might be a better option.

I don't know. We'll see how things go.

What kind of truck did/do you drive around?

I had a Blazer that was dropped 5" in the front and 7" in the rear. It was a tad extreme for daily driving, especially in the winter, but it looks pretty awesome considering I could tuck tire.

Looking around online it looks like a 2" front/3" rear drop on the Ranger isn't all that involved other that you need to flip the rear axle. You should be able to do it in your driveway with basic tools. Just be sure to replace your shocks if you do end up lowering it or you're going to have an awful ride. Also go with a reputable company like DJM or Belltech, they might be more expensive but the quality is way better than some of the other cheap kits out there. Depending on how low you think you want to go you might also considering C-notching the rear frame so your axle doesn't bang against it, it's one thing I wish I would have done with my Blazer.

If you do decide to lower it and you have any questions, I'm happy to share whatever I know.
 
Thank you, sir. I'll look into it. And we'll see. Taylor will stay the way he is for now ( a year or two - then we'll see about engine, etc.)
 
Taylor has been acting weird the past couple of weeks. Didn't really notice it until today. When I engage the clutch and switch into neutral, the RPM's drop to 500 from the usual 800. Takes a second or two to bring the RPM's back up to 800.

Normally I wouldn't fret this type of thing but it actually is dangerous. When it drops to 500 the truck nearly stalls. Thus rendering power steering useless and makes the truck a pig to turn.

I was coming off the ramp from the highway and was pulling up to the intersection. RPM's drop and the truck almost stalls.

Could be a vacuum leak. Need to check the throttle body.

Also need to check what the hell is going on with the AC. When I turn the heater on, the AC clicks itself on and off. Reducing my power and causing rough idles.
 
So Taylor only had one mudguard for the engine bay. So I bought a couple of floor mats for traced the factory pattern, cut it up, cut the appropriate holes, and put in the plugs.

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Luxury car wash my ass.... didn't even have a jet of water for the wheels.
 
I had a Blazer that was dropped 5" in the front and 7" in the rear. It was a tad extreme for daily driving...

Dare I say it? You were BlazinXtreme.

Ha, ha. I'll get my coat.
 
Minor updates.

Update #1:

I made these:

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Traced the original guard and made one for the driver's side.

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The plastic I used seems a lot stiffer than it is. Which means I'll need to use a heat gun when I install them.



Update #2:

I searched online for the rough idle problem and a lot of Rangers and F150's and Expeditions seem to be suffering from rough idles.

"Solutions" range from replacing the IAC, throttle bodie to vaccuum leaks.

No one has posted an actual solution, so until then, I'll see what I can do with the sensors in the engine.

Hopefully it's a simple solution, like filling up the AC to increase the pressure.
 
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