Minolta 88cv spinning and dancing

[fulcrumdriver]

I'm racing the Toyota Minolta 88cv in the GT championship with the stage 4 turbo and super hards in back, mediums in front. Currently I'm at the Seoul reverse track, and I cannot get the car to settle down no matter what I try. It wants to spin out at higher speeds, and whenever I brake (coming out of the confusing straightaway in Seoul) it wobbles back and forth and spins out. Basically it feels tailheavy, but like the tail lifts up at higher speed.

Does anyone have settings to make this thing manageable?

Also, do you use ASM? All I'm using with the minolta is TCS at 4. I'd like to hear what some good limited slip settings are too. They don't seem to be making any difference when I push the values higher.

 

[Rx3]

In no particular order or combination:

- Take off the stage 4 turbo

- make sure you are doing all your braking in a straight line, and not trying to trailbrake too deeply into the turns

- lower your rear brake bias

- lower your rear rebound

- lower rear spring rate

- add a little negative camber to the rear




Leave ASM off, it just slows you down. Use TCS as you need it. Reset the LSD back to defaults.

 

[fulcrumdriver]

That helped somewhat, although it seems too loose without LSD adjustment(I set mine to 11, 45, 20).
The breaking problem is gone at least. But it's still spinning around at low speeds; it feels unbalanced, like the back end loses traction too easily and slides around. What specific level should the springs be at? I've got them, with ride height of 60, at 18 front and 15.5 back. Rebound is all 9s except the rear at 7. Camber seems to work best with .5 in front and .3 in back, though I was driving with a 1.5F, 1.0B setup as well.
Currently in the Opera Paris track.

 

[Rx3]

If it is still spinning at low speeds, don't stab the throttle so hard on tight turns (especially at Opera). Ease the throttle on gently.


The spring level that works for me may not work for you, we all drive differently. Just take the car to a practice run, and lower the spring rate in small increments then do a few test laps. You'll know when you have the right value.

Lower your rebounds they are all too high.

Ease the throttle. It's a prototype car, you cant just stand on it coming out of a tight turn, even with the traction control on.

 

[Blackbird.]

You don't expect for a car with 1000+horsepower to just have the tires grip without and slippage even when it's so light? Come on think in reality.

 

[Iceman]

There is an easy fix for this, just fit the rear with the same tires as the front and you will have a much more stable car. Then just lower camber and set toe settings to 0, and TCS to about 7 and you should get pretty good tire wear.

 

[Zardoz]

...There is an easy fix for this, just fit the rear with the same tires as the front and you will have a much more stable car...

You don't have to have the same tires to get an improvement, but I think you are seeing what I always see when I try to put tires two grades harder on the rear than the front. No car I have ever tried this on was driveable.

These front/rear combos do not work: R5/R3, R4/R2, R3/R1 (the one referred to in the original post).

These work: R5/R4, R4/R3, R3/R2. R2/R1.

With two grades difference, the front end has so much more grip than the rear it is always uncontrollable on a powerful car. Maybe it would work on a far less-powerful car, but I've never tried it.

Try the R3/R2 combination and see if it makes a big difference.

 

[fulcrumdriver]

You don't expect for a car with 1000+horsepower to just have the tires grip without and slippage even when it's so light? Come on think in reality.

No, but I'd like to think it could take corners without slipping around when the throttle isn't even being applied. Thinking in reality is getting kind of hard anyhow, with the **** AI that spins you out rather than braking to avoid you.

This isn't a problem with the throttle; it slides between braking and applying throttle. Putting medium tires on the back fixes the problem, but it still wears out too fast; the point of the thread is trying to figure out is how to balance the suspension to work with hards in the back.
-
Okay, now I'm getting some decent performance. For some reason, drastically lowering the rear stabilizer eliminates the spin problem, and I get the classic oversteer that I would expect, and can handle.

suspension:Front Rear
Springs: 17 15
Bound: 6 6
Rebound: 6 4
Camber: 1.0 0.5
Toe: 0 0
Stab: 5 2

LSD: 11, 40, 16
TCS: 7

Thanks for the help 👍

 

[Rx3]

For some reason, drastically lowering the rear stabilizer eliminates the spin problem, and I get the classic oversteer that I would expect, and can handle.

:

That's because lowering the rear swaybar diameter means the rear is less stiff, thus making the car understeer. You are learning

 

[fulcrumdriver]

Well, I gave up on GT world championship. After practicing Opera Paris through about 50 laps, I was able to drive it clean and fast, and for about 6 laps I could maintain a 4 second lead. But after that the other cars rocketed right past me, probably because their tires finally got grippy, and I would lose by 23 seconds. Only time I could improve was when their tires went out, and they would then pit the next lap.

So I went and got hard tires and refreshed the body (I'd already raced it in the Fuji 1000km enduro). Took it back, and it handles perfectly now. Tire wear is to within 1 lap between front and back and varies depending on the race, and I don't lose it when they go yellow; in fact the hard tires seem to grip better at yellow, as opposed to the superhards completely failing. It's very forgiving except at very high speed turns; the only thing to worry about is hitting curbs or bumps in the road. I also seem to get the same rocketship effect now and can keep ahead of the other cars without problem. I just got gold on Hong Kong, and I hit the walls plenty of times.

Basically, I guess using super hards on the minolta is a lost cause. Oh well, it's fun to race now

 

[Zardoz]

...and refreshed the body (I'd already raced it in the Fuji 1000km enduro). Took it back, and it handles perfectly now...

Yeah, the Rigidity Refresher Plan really works. I wore out my CLK Touring Car B-Spec spamming the DTM race. After 3500 miles it was shot. Bought the RRP, and its like new again.