- 757
- Paris
- BlueShift
This wall of text belong originally to the spring formula thread, but after a power failure here and getting the text back (yay forum 2.0 !), I "wasn't allowed" to post in it anymore. I don't know where the thread is gone. Anyway.
The exact formula for springs is broken in two :
Low speed : total weight x weight ratio /100 = spring rate x ride height.
High speed : total weight x weight ratio /100 + dynamics = spring rate x ride height.
This is just minimal values though, so your car don't hit the ride cruising at high speed or cruising at low speed.
You have to take into account weigth transfer and how the dampers figths it.
I just (re)understood yesterday why my moto is comp > ext on high aero cars.
Here's my step-by-step method for the suspension. This works with MR mostly, and sometimes FR. You can takes some elements for 4WD, and FF/RR have laws on their own that I don't completly understand, esp high pp FF.
* Say a basic, neutral and pure fantasy car have 1000kg 40:60, front aero is at max 200, rear is at max 400, and you're tuning it not for top speed or performance but for precision/control.
400kg front, 600kg in rear at low speed
+ dynamics at high speed is = 600kg front, 1000kg rear.
Usually I'm trying to put it at 60/60mm (no sparks on most tracks, if not any, but beware of bumpers).
Let's take 100mm for the example so the calculation is made easy.
100mm mean 4kg / 6kg at low speed and 6kg / 10kg at high speed.
Let's look about the geometry front /rear.
4 / 6 follows 40 : 60, of course.
6 / 10 does not, conclusion, there will be a weigth translation "problem" from high speed to low speed, which you can control depending on the car.
=> aero could follow the weigth distribution aswell for very smooth/no translation from high speed to low speed.
For a neutral braking car, 40 : 60 means aero should be set here @ 200/300.
But, you still could use it at your advantage if you don't do this.
- Aero @ 200/400 will make the car transfer more and more of weigth the longer your brake. You gain rear grip while braking. Your brakes can be set @ 1/2, 2/4, 3/6, 4/8 or 5/10 there, the car will gain understeer while braking (which is good for oversteering cars).
- 200/300 will be indifferent and is imho the best results for braking, especially if you use 2/3 brakes settings or 4/6 or 6/9 because the wind will actually fully help the car to stop it at whatever speed you are.
- 200/200 will make the car transfer all the weigth at high speed allready (don't do this unless your car is glued to the road and the decel lsd never locks). You will gain top speed but will tail chasing in the curves. Good setting for drifting imho. Equilibrated brakes will work the best, maybe one click less in front because of the car's 40:60.
Now that's not taking weigth transfer in to account. Brake should take this into account too. But here's your base brakes. You migth want one click or more in front, depending if you lock the LSD, have sliping tires or not.
Let's choose arbitrary 200/300 for the aero. Say you like the handling the most there, or something.
That way : 4 / 6kg at low speed and 6 / 9 at high speed. So you want at least 6/9 so your car never hit the ride at top speed.
Next step : kinetic energy is 0.5 * weigth * v². The car will dissipate all this energy on the front tires.
If you take 6kg/mm / 9kg/mm, you will have front spring that will absorb 600kg at braking, or 60% of the initial mass in front. I usually take 100%, then I'll remove some weigth by testing (until 60%-70-75%, depends of the PP : less PP = 60%, more PP = 100%).
@100mm, I would start to test that car with 10kg front, and 15kg rear (9kg * (10 front high sp/6 front low sp)).
Next step is dampers. Here's the very personal and feeling based theory part.
10kg front @100mm "would" mean each unit of front damper is those 1000kg / 10 (10 = max damper setting), mean each front click is 100kg.
15kg @100mm mean aswell each unit of rear click damper is 150kg.
Braking phase : front comp and rear ext.
Coasting phase : depends greatly about aero. We used 200/300 so it's easy : 2 front ext should be equal to 3 rear ext and 2 front comp should be equal to 3 rear comp. So we are aiming for a classic 4/6 - 2/3 now where to put this, comp or ext ?
Accel phase : front ext and rear comp.
Braking phase will show the most things.
If we use
Comp 4 / 6
Ext 2 / 3
We will have 4 (front comp) that will work with a 3 (rear ext).
In kg we mean front damper can absorb 4 * 100 = 400kg that will given by 3*150 = 450kg. Got 50kg more there that will be given to the tires... Meaning understeer.
If we use
Comp 2 / 3
Ext 4 / 6
We will have 2 (front comp) that will work with a 6 (rear ext).
In kg we mean front damper can absorb 200kg that will given by 6*150 = 900kg. Got 700kg on top of the 400kg that goes I think to the tires... Meaning understeer too, but a lot more. At least one tire will slip for sure and decel LSD will surely lock. Now notice it's not bad, since you can support allready 1000kg in front. Just add +10% to the spring and use RS.
All you did is making your LSD tuning a capital part of your tune.
Now the fun part : at high speed the comp will dissipate exactlly your front aero parts, since the gap is 2. Guess what, you don't loose control.
2 * 100 front = 200, 3 * 150 rear = 450. If you want a little more glue, you could have a 1 gap by +1 both ext.
4/6 - 3/4. That mean you'll have a very stable comp < ext feeling at high speed (the wind pushe 2 unit of comp front and 2.33 in rear - acts as 2/4 - 3/4) to a more effective ext < comp feeling at low speed because the comp cease to act (4/6 - 3/4).
Magic trick I re-discovered yesterday on the 908
The wind. This will glue your car at high speed this way AND unglue it at low speed under very controlable condition. But it is still giving you good results for braking.
And it makes sense ! The wind always press the car, so you need comp a little higher than usual to find an equilibrium somewhere between ext and comp.
Here : the wind will press the car as if you were having 2 / 4 comp and 2 / 3 ext.
At low speed, you still have a powerfull braking of 4 front comp for 3 ext.
If ext > comp with the wind lowering again the comp, you'll hit the damper stop and everything goes to springs giving this to the tires, LSD lock and boom lost of control.
Here you'll have comp @ high speed act as if set at 0 / 1 with 4 / 6 ext.
I migth be perfectly wrong there ! But that shows (very) good results on the 908. That doesn't cure the car, it improves braking and coasting only. Now I'm not sure the 908 is sick allready !
There's my very classic dampers collection :
Comp 4 / 6
Ext 3 / 4
Since we will work at front comp 4 / rear ext 4 for the braking part, the suspension will now give you only 200kg on front tires (meaning LSD initial/decel tune).
You can also work at 6/4 - all the kg from the suspension just doesn't exist, but then (remember the coasting phase, you'll need 2xrear comp = 3 front comp) :
Comp 6 / 9
Ext 3 / 4 -> will induce oversteer by low rear ext that you can also cure with LSD if the transmission is at the rear.
Damper rendering (for smoother transistion from braking to coasting and coasting to accel, this is where your LSD locks).
Front Comp 6 divided Ext 3 is = 2
Rear Comp 9 / Ext 4 is a little more than 2, aka not the same as front's - will introduce under/oversteer (from tail, but don't really know without testing. I'd say oversteer but I don't remember) - this is, i think, controlable by LSD, esp initial and accel. Decel LSD will control the liberty you have while braking, initial will control your coasting transition.
I fine-test it like this : stop braking to coast if no little moves then initial and deecl are ok. Same with accel from coasting to accel. My best curve for this is the one before the tunnel at high speed ring.
Anyway. Since front comp gives you 600kg and rear ext gives you also 600kg, you just don't need to touch the brake setting you had before.
Less personal
Antiroll bars will help you figthing the oversteer/understeer in braking. From the comp > ext setting, we got 6 front comp to 4 rear ext. Gap is 2, I'd use 2 aswell. Why ? Just well, okay, this is a theory again. Just do it. If it don't work, move one by one, test, undo, move the other one and decide.
We'll use a basic 5/3, or 6/4 and see how this works. I would choose 5/3 always first. But the natural tendency of the car is 4/4 (remember again 40:60 and 100kg per clic fron, 150kg per clic rear). So this is at the expense of coasting speed.
Camber is very easy. Since we got everytimes 40:60 weigth from rear to front, by not taking the braking into account, we could use say 0.8 / 1.2 or 1.2 / 1.8.
Then we change front camber depending on the antiroll bar. Yup.
Say we used 5/3 and 0.8/1.2, then we move the camber from 0.8/1.2 which is ideal in the coasting phase to somewhere at 0.8 * 5 / 3 = 1.3333 (or 1.3) and still 1.2 rear. Adjust front camber from 0.8 to 1.3 by testing. I usually take 1.3 to help turning if remaining understeer exists.
You shouldn't need toe if everything is done rigth. Toe should be your last joker card if everything you tried failed. Toe is quite a big problem and have big influence on LSD, since your tires will slip whatever you do and have an impact on the accel/decel inputs. Toe = less decel /accel sensitivity and a very good care of initial you put in. Anyway sometimes it's good. But remember, +/- 0.05 = redo your LSD.
Then, LSD, always finetuning at last unless you exactly know what to do. Every single setting on the car have LSD dependancies. So tune it when you're 100% sure of the other parts.
Everything have been told about it, just apply what you learned from the other threads, or just ignore it and use stock one. Sometimes it works better than the full custom (it worked better in GT5 for a very few cars, esp Lancer Evo V and more). And it's a good idea to see what are the car's man susp problems before messing around with the arbitrary 10/40/20 setup GT6 gives to most cars.
Note that this method will help you having a very good braking car, and a good coasting car or the opposite.
Accel results would be very car dependent. And you never tried to improve or cure base driving of the car. What you did is maxing the braking and the coasting. Tuning is almost always at the expense of something else. eg here maybe you maxed something, but the car was sick of something else. All you did is put more PP and maybe increase her sickness.
You cure accel phase with changing the rear comp so every calculation you make migth be messed up too.
Also, the transmission. Don't forget where you transmission is. These will be working for FR or MR. RR are a lot more difficult, you gonna use toe, and sometimes having way bigger ride heigth in front to cure the oversteer (115 / 90mm on my GT5 E-Type).
4WD's LSD are really critical and FF always have rear grip sicknesses (too much rear grip braking, not much at accel or the opposite at high PP is very frequent).
That is where you, as a tuner, can make a difference, because all you can do is drive and feel the tires and the road.
And don't forget the golden mother of every rules :
Everytime a calculation gave you a number, take it as an indication, not for a rule. Each car have her very particular sicknesses (maybe but Group C, F1 or things like that) and applying a "cure" for a sickness she don't have migth give you very bad results instead of curing her. e.g Corollary : You need to drive and test, and drive again, until you found what the car needs. The numbers will give you indication but if it feel wrong, each number would have to be reconsidered. The only numbers you can somehow trust are the minimum springs that are in front of this wall of text.
Now what if you took 200/400 aero ? I "feel" this but still can't explain it.
A dragging 908 (50:50) is excellent at 300/540. Really crap at 300/500 and really crap at 300/600 (and really really crap at 500/500). Wind harmonics on road X straigth line at 420 km/h for all low aero setup different than 300 / 500 or 600.
Good at 540, again, there's a maximum there to be found, so the 200 / 300 have to be reconsidered aswell.
I'm having very good results with some formulas like sin(front) / sin(rear) = gold number (=0.618...) on the 908 (giving that 300/540) but still have to solidify this, I'm not sure it's the car geometry or not. And it makes the aero unit be 0.1°, so have to solidify this because it's not compatible with the spring formula.
Also, some car still have "oldschool" rear aero, like the NSX, when you buy it you gain rear aero 5/20. It's 50/200 for the other cars. If no front aero, those car benefits the most of 12 in the rear.
I'd say the "best" aero setup is 200 front then 200 + 60% of 300 = 380. Then the 908 tewt came, then all my theory falls apart. So... Test your car until my "feel" the wind.
The proof to all those theory on aerodynamics ??? Oh look at the bird through the window !
*runs away*
Seriously, this one last part may only be some serious belief of mine.
edit - Oh, and I can't tune a gearbox because of a lot of things. First, it's track dependend (as the turbo stage you'll use), I have autoset for this and sometimes only 5 gears on tracks just because of the topology (Trial Mountain, I'm looking at you, you made me lost a tuning challenge with this damn it !!).
Another under-estimated thing is the powerband of the turbo you use. Look the descriptions.
So if you have to use the powerband limiter to be able to enter an event, use it, but before put an appriopriate turbo on the track you aim. You can get less turbo lag.
Last secret, is about LSD and clutch. Some of you guys just ignore this but have the stock clutch makes sometimes like if having 5 less points of initial, and -2 on accel and really better braking because the motor got a lot of inertia. I'm looking at you, Yellowbird. And you, NSX. And you E-Type. You see what I mean ?
Everything else I know is about 4DW. I'll make a topic on LSD of these. Other believes there for the front / rear transmission settings.
edit again - oh and ballast. I'd rather use toe than ballasts. There's only two cars I know to need ballast, it's the GT40 and maybe the yellowbird. And I'm not even sure for the tuning everest that is a fully PPed Yellowbird... It's the most quick and dirty setting you can make if you want my opinion...
The exact formula for springs is broken in two :
Low speed : total weight x weight ratio /100 = spring rate x ride height.
High speed : total weight x weight ratio /100 + dynamics = spring rate x ride height.
This is just minimal values though, so your car don't hit the ride cruising at high speed or cruising at low speed.
You have to take into account weigth transfer and how the dampers figths it.
I just (re)understood yesterday why my moto is comp > ext on high aero cars.
Here's my step-by-step method for the suspension. This works with MR mostly, and sometimes FR. You can takes some elements for 4WD, and FF/RR have laws on their own that I don't completly understand, esp high pp FF.
* Say a basic, neutral and pure fantasy car have 1000kg 40:60, front aero is at max 200, rear is at max 400, and you're tuning it not for top speed or performance but for precision/control.
400kg front, 600kg in rear at low speed
+ dynamics at high speed is = 600kg front, 1000kg rear.
Usually I'm trying to put it at 60/60mm (no sparks on most tracks, if not any, but beware of bumpers).
Let's take 100mm for the example so the calculation is made easy.
100mm mean 4kg / 6kg at low speed and 6kg / 10kg at high speed.
Let's look about the geometry front /rear.
4 / 6 follows 40 : 60, of course.
6 / 10 does not, conclusion, there will be a weigth translation "problem" from high speed to low speed, which you can control depending on the car.
=> aero could follow the weigth distribution aswell for very smooth/no translation from high speed to low speed.
For a neutral braking car, 40 : 60 means aero should be set here @ 200/300.
But, you still could use it at your advantage if you don't do this.
- Aero @ 200/400 will make the car transfer more and more of weigth the longer your brake. You gain rear grip while braking. Your brakes can be set @ 1/2, 2/4, 3/6, 4/8 or 5/10 there, the car will gain understeer while braking (which is good for oversteering cars).
- 200/300 will be indifferent and is imho the best results for braking, especially if you use 2/3 brakes settings or 4/6 or 6/9 because the wind will actually fully help the car to stop it at whatever speed you are.
- 200/200 will make the car transfer all the weigth at high speed allready (don't do this unless your car is glued to the road and the decel lsd never locks). You will gain top speed but will tail chasing in the curves. Good setting for drifting imho. Equilibrated brakes will work the best, maybe one click less in front because of the car's 40:60.
Now that's not taking weigth transfer in to account. Brake should take this into account too. But here's your base brakes. You migth want one click or more in front, depending if you lock the LSD, have sliping tires or not.
Let's choose arbitrary 200/300 for the aero. Say you like the handling the most there, or something.
That way : 4 / 6kg at low speed and 6 / 9 at high speed. So you want at least 6/9 so your car never hit the ride at top speed.
Next step : kinetic energy is 0.5 * weigth * v². The car will dissipate all this energy on the front tires.
If you take 6kg/mm / 9kg/mm, you will have front spring that will absorb 600kg at braking, or 60% of the initial mass in front. I usually take 100%, then I'll remove some weigth by testing (until 60%-70-75%, depends of the PP : less PP = 60%, more PP = 100%).
@100mm, I would start to test that car with 10kg front, and 15kg rear (9kg * (10 front high sp/6 front low sp)).
Next step is dampers. Here's the very personal and feeling based theory part.
10kg front @100mm "would" mean each unit of front damper is those 1000kg / 10 (10 = max damper setting), mean each front click is 100kg.
15kg @100mm mean aswell each unit of rear click damper is 150kg.
Braking phase : front comp and rear ext.
Coasting phase : depends greatly about aero. We used 200/300 so it's easy : 2 front ext should be equal to 3 rear ext and 2 front comp should be equal to 3 rear comp. So we are aiming for a classic 4/6 - 2/3 now where to put this, comp or ext ?
Accel phase : front ext and rear comp.
Braking phase will show the most things.
If we use
Comp 4 / 6
Ext 2 / 3
We will have 4 (front comp) that will work with a 3 (rear ext).
In kg we mean front damper can absorb 4 * 100 = 400kg that will given by 3*150 = 450kg. Got 50kg more there that will be given to the tires... Meaning understeer.
If we use
Comp 2 / 3
Ext 4 / 6
We will have 2 (front comp) that will work with a 6 (rear ext).
In kg we mean front damper can absorb 200kg that will given by 6*150 = 900kg. Got 700kg on top of the 400kg that goes I think to the tires... Meaning understeer too, but a lot more. At least one tire will slip for sure and decel LSD will surely lock. Now notice it's not bad, since you can support allready 1000kg in front. Just add +10% to the spring and use RS.
All you did is making your LSD tuning a capital part of your tune.
Now the fun part : at high speed the comp will dissipate exactlly your front aero parts, since the gap is 2. Guess what, you don't loose control.
2 * 100 front = 200, 3 * 150 rear = 450. If you want a little more glue, you could have a 1 gap by +1 both ext.
4/6 - 3/4. That mean you'll have a very stable comp < ext feeling at high speed (the wind pushe 2 unit of comp front and 2.33 in rear - acts as 2/4 - 3/4) to a more effective ext < comp feeling at low speed because the comp cease to act (4/6 - 3/4).
Magic trick I re-discovered yesterday on the 908
The wind. This will glue your car at high speed this way AND unglue it at low speed under very controlable condition. But it is still giving you good results for braking.And it makes sense ! The wind always press the car, so you need comp a little higher than usual to find an equilibrium somewhere between ext and comp.
Here : the wind will press the car as if you were having 2 / 4 comp and 2 / 3 ext.
At low speed, you still have a powerfull braking of 4 front comp for 3 ext.
If ext > comp with the wind lowering again the comp, you'll hit the damper stop and everything goes to springs giving this to the tires, LSD lock and boom lost of control.
Here you'll have comp @ high speed act as if set at 0 / 1 with 4 / 6 ext.
I migth be perfectly wrong there ! But that shows (very) good results on the 908. That doesn't cure the car, it improves braking and coasting only. Now I'm not sure the 908 is sick allready !
There's my very classic dampers collection :
Comp 4 / 6
Ext 3 / 4
Since we will work at front comp 4 / rear ext 4 for the braking part, the suspension will now give you only 200kg on front tires (meaning LSD initial/decel tune).
You can also work at 6/4 - all the kg from the suspension just doesn't exist, but then (remember the coasting phase, you'll need 2xrear comp = 3 front comp) :
Comp 6 / 9
Ext 3 / 4 -> will induce oversteer by low rear ext that you can also cure with LSD if the transmission is at the rear.
Damper rendering (for smoother transistion from braking to coasting and coasting to accel, this is where your LSD locks).
Front Comp 6 divided Ext 3 is = 2
Rear Comp 9 / Ext 4 is a little more than 2, aka not the same as front's - will introduce under/oversteer (from tail, but don't really know without testing. I'd say oversteer but I don't remember) - this is, i think, controlable by LSD, esp initial and accel. Decel LSD will control the liberty you have while braking, initial will control your coasting transition.
I fine-test it like this : stop braking to coast if no little moves then initial and deecl are ok. Same with accel from coasting to accel. My best curve for this is the one before the tunnel at high speed ring.
Anyway. Since front comp gives you 600kg and rear ext gives you also 600kg, you just don't need to touch the brake setting you had before.
Less personal
Antiroll bars will help you figthing the oversteer/understeer in braking. From the comp > ext setting, we got 6 front comp to 4 rear ext. Gap is 2, I'd use 2 aswell. Why ? Just well, okay, this is a theory again. Just do it. If it don't work, move one by one, test, undo, move the other one and decide.
We'll use a basic 5/3, or 6/4 and see how this works. I would choose 5/3 always first. But the natural tendency of the car is 4/4 (remember again 40:60 and 100kg per clic fron, 150kg per clic rear). So this is at the expense of coasting speed.
Camber is very easy. Since we got everytimes 40:60 weigth from rear to front, by not taking the braking into account, we could use say 0.8 / 1.2 or 1.2 / 1.8.
Then we change front camber depending on the antiroll bar. Yup.
Say we used 5/3 and 0.8/1.2, then we move the camber from 0.8/1.2 which is ideal in the coasting phase to somewhere at 0.8 * 5 / 3 = 1.3333 (or 1.3) and still 1.2 rear. Adjust front camber from 0.8 to 1.3 by testing. I usually take 1.3 to help turning if remaining understeer exists.
You shouldn't need toe if everything is done rigth. Toe should be your last joker card if everything you tried failed. Toe is quite a big problem and have big influence on LSD, since your tires will slip whatever you do and have an impact on the accel/decel inputs. Toe = less decel /accel sensitivity and a very good care of initial you put in. Anyway sometimes it's good. But remember, +/- 0.05 = redo your LSD.
Then, LSD, always finetuning at last unless you exactly know what to do. Every single setting on the car have LSD dependancies. So tune it when you're 100% sure of the other parts.
Everything have been told about it, just apply what you learned from the other threads, or just ignore it and use stock one. Sometimes it works better than the full custom (it worked better in GT5 for a very few cars, esp Lancer Evo V and more). And it's a good idea to see what are the car's man susp problems before messing around with the arbitrary 10/40/20 setup GT6 gives to most cars.
Note that this method will help you having a very good braking car, and a good coasting car or the opposite.
Accel results would be very car dependent. And you never tried to improve or cure base driving of the car. What you did is maxing the braking and the coasting. Tuning is almost always at the expense of something else. eg here maybe you maxed something, but the car was sick of something else. All you did is put more PP and maybe increase her sickness.
You cure accel phase with changing the rear comp so every calculation you make migth be messed up too.
Also, the transmission. Don't forget where you transmission is. These will be working for FR or MR. RR are a lot more difficult, you gonna use toe, and sometimes having way bigger ride heigth in front to cure the oversteer (115 / 90mm on my GT5 E-Type).
4WD's LSD are really critical and FF always have rear grip sicknesses (too much rear grip braking, not much at accel or the opposite at high PP is very frequent).
That is where you, as a tuner, can make a difference, because all you can do is drive and feel the tires and the road.
And don't forget the golden mother of every rules :
Everytime a calculation gave you a number, take it as an indication, not for a rule. Each car have her very particular sicknesses (maybe but Group C, F1 or things like that) and applying a "cure" for a sickness she don't have migth give you very bad results instead of curing her. e.g Corollary : You need to drive and test, and drive again, until you found what the car needs. The numbers will give you indication but if it feel wrong, each number would have to be reconsidered. The only numbers you can somehow trust are the minimum springs that are in front of this wall of text.
Now what if you took 200/400 aero ?
I "feel" this but still can't explain it.A dragging 908 (50:50) is excellent at 300/540. Really crap at 300/500 and really crap at 300/600 (and really really crap at 500/500). Wind harmonics on road X straigth line at 420 km/h for all low aero setup different than 300 / 500 or 600.
Good at 540, again, there's a maximum there to be found, so the 200 / 300 have to be reconsidered aswell.
I'm having very good results with some formulas like sin(front) / sin(rear) = gold number (=0.618...) on the 908 (giving that 300/540) but still have to solidify this, I'm not sure it's the car geometry or not. And it makes the aero unit be 0.1°, so have to solidify this because it's not compatible with the spring formula.
Also, some car still have "oldschool" rear aero, like the NSX, when you buy it you gain rear aero 5/20. It's 50/200 for the other cars. If no front aero, those car benefits the most of 12 in the rear.
I'd say the "best" aero setup is 200 front then 200 + 60% of 300 = 380. Then the 908 tewt came, then all my theory falls apart. So... Test your car until my "feel" the wind.
The proof to all those theory on aerodynamics ??? Oh look at the bird through the window !
*runs away*
Seriously, this one last part may only be some serious belief of mine.
edit - Oh, and I can't tune a gearbox because of a lot of things. First, it's track dependend (as the turbo stage you'll use), I have autoset for this and sometimes only 5 gears on tracks just because of the topology (Trial Mountain, I'm looking at you, you made me lost a tuning challenge with this damn it !!).
Another under-estimated thing is the powerband of the turbo you use. Look the descriptions.
So if you have to use the powerband limiter to be able to enter an event, use it, but before put an appriopriate turbo on the track you aim. You can get less turbo lag.
Last secret, is about LSD and clutch. Some of you guys just ignore this but have the stock clutch makes sometimes like if having 5 less points of initial, and -2 on accel and really better braking because the motor got a lot of inertia. I'm looking at you, Yellowbird. And you, NSX. And you E-Type. You see what I mean ?
Everything else I know is about 4DW. I'll make a topic on LSD of these. Other believes there for the front / rear transmission settings.
edit again - oh and ballast. I'd rather use toe than ballasts. There's only two cars I know to need ballast, it's the GT40 and maybe the yellowbird. And I'm not even sure for the tuning everest that is a fully PPed Yellowbird... It's the most quick and dirty setting you can make if you want my opinion...
Last edited:
Excellent work!
(sorry)
