NGU Garage: 871pp Ferrari Formula Challenge

[Lionheart2113]

New Trial Format
I'm trying a new layout here at the end of GT5 to see how it's accepted among the gtplanet community. I'm hoping this works and I can get all of the bugs worked out before the release of GT6 to make my garage a nice place to stop by for helpful advice and tuning stradegy. The ultimate goal is to have a sort of walkthrough along with a library of events that are added as the game progresses.


License Center
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8612691#post8612691


Special Events


In game A-Spec Events


Seasonal Events
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8609681#post8609681




Hello all, I’m guessing that if you are reading this, you are interested in tuning set ups for GT5. If you are like me, you’ve probably looked and looked for proper tunes for certain cars, maybe even downloading tuning sheets or certain apps that do all the work for you. I know there are plenty of good tuning sites out there, and I’m using some of them to compare notes, but this is a different type of tuning thread aimed more for those of us non wheel using folk. I'm not a big fan of dictating tunes only because there are soooo many possibilities out there and trying to "lock down" the perfect tune is very tough. Let’s face it, you can go to any of the top tuning sites, pick out a car, and find that you are lucky if any of the settings match up with each other. If anything, this is just a beginners’ guide to set ups, cars, tuning, helpful hints/tips, and far from the Holy Grail of car tuning. Let those other guys fight for that title.
Let me start off by saying that I love racing. I’m not all about the technical aspects of why ½torque of (Y) multiplied by the square root of 37 is equal to why a smurf is blue….I couldn’t care less. “I wanna go fast” (Ricky Bobby) I just want to get in the car, drive into the corner and know that it will stick…kinda. I am very happy with the GT franchise and have played since the original Gran Turismo. (That was on an ancient playstation for any of those under the age of 20!) Yes, there have been trials and tribulations with every single GT game (ghost cars, flying cars, popping wheelie set ups that magically make the Nissan 390 break the sound barrier) we could do this all day…but moving forward. I love GT and think that it is the best simulation game and the designers and such are doing a great job trying to keep most happy with new events and special things here and there. (Although they really pushed my loyalty to the extreme with the version 2.10 flop) And I’m all for the GT Academy, those guys are awesome. So, well done to all of them. But, I’m at that point now where I’m waiting for GT6 and trying to figure out all the little things in GT5 that might be of use in GT6. There is plenty still to do in GT5 even though I’m maxed out on the A&B Spec levels, 60 gold trophies, and own over 1500 cars and counting. So now I’m going through the dealership buying cars and figuring things out 1 by 1. I’ll tell you guys how I go about buying and tuning cars, getting each one down to the best power/weight ratio pending performance points (PP), that’s about how technical I’ll go, everything else is trial by fire as they say.
Another reason I wanted to start this expedition is to see how driving styles come into play. I’m going to get so much criticism for this, but here we go… I use the D-pads with the “X” button for gas set up. Unfortunately, this limits the ability of the throttle response and because I never played any musical instruments, I’m left with an automatic transmission. My fingers just don’t work that way. I know I know, everyone tells me that I need to get a steering wheel because it is a totally different game, and maybe someday I will, but being married with children, you tell me where you think the money and priorities go?! I’m still waiting to get a decent TV, one that doesn’t leave an imprint on the screen if you pause it for 30secs or where it doesn’t take 5mins to get sound to come out of it when you first turn it on, but I digress… This is what I’m used to and I’m too stubborn to change, so what I’ve found is that without the best of the best steering wheel and manual transmission, most of the tuning set ups that are out there, don’t really help the ‘final” tuning in my case. That, and everyone has a different idea on how they want their car to handle and react. Fair enough. Most of my cars are set up to be a little on the “loose” side, if you don’t know what that is, don’t worry…like I said, this is mostly for beginners so we will go through most of the racing terms as they come along.
This is how I go about buying a new car and figuring out the range of PP a certain car can obtain. Like I said, I’m only going by the best possible power to weight ratio, then going from there. The attachment is a step by step of what I do when buying a new car.

This is where I’ll stop the rambling and get tuning. I usually go online and create a room saying something like “Tuning ‘91NSX Street” (under the free run sort) pending the car I’m in. If you see the room, feel free to join in, preferably with the car of choice. The plan is to chat, exchange notes, do a little racing, but most of all learning and having fun. I’m not going to have all the answers and I pity those who do, but hopefully this will be a good experience for all who just want to start driving a little better.

Tunes

Aston Martin V12 Vantage '10 (500pp)
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8736466#post8736466


2.12 Spec Sheets

Maserati Gran Turismo S '08
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8516578#post8516578
Aston Martin V12 Vantage '10
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8525600#post8525600


2.11 Tunes (New layout)

Nissan GT-R SpecV Academy Version '09 (4WD) 600pp
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8171439#post8171439

2.10 Tunes
These tunes are going to be redone and discussed. They will also be put into my new tuning format w/ pic.

Acura NSX '91 (MR) 500pp
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=7999752#post7999752
Alfa Romeo 8C Competezione '08 (FR) 500pp
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8012760#post8012760
Audi R8 5.2 Quattro '09 (4WD) 500PP
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8070131#post8070131
Dodge Challenger SRT8 '08 (FR) 500pp
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8126466#post8126466



Transmission Trick or Flipping the Transmission??? UPDATED Feb. 21st, 2013
Added to (March 1, 2013) using GT-R for transmission tests (down towards bottom, wanted to keep all of the transmission talks in the same section)
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8038113#post8038113


It's probably best to view the New Car Tuning PDF before using these links...

GT5 Spec Sheets Updated for Version 2.11
Any changes have been shown with the orange highlight. Some cars need to be redone because they have had an NA Tune installed and as we all know, they can't be taken off and reducing the power limiter will not give you the best ratio for that particular pp range.

Sheet 1 https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8021095#post8021095
Sheet 2 https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8021100#post8021100
Sheet 3 https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8034508#post8034508
Sheet 4 https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8089856#post8089856
Sheet 5 https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8104306#post8104306

Weekly NASCAR contest info. https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8046109#post8046109

I’m very new to the GT Planet site, but from what I’ve seen so far it is a great site and I’m looking forward to more. From time to time I’ll put on some of the facts and figures along with possible cries for help when I can’t tune a car properly. Hope to see you out there. Thanks. Lionheart2113

PS: Please don't confuse the PDF attachment for how I tune cars for the track, this is just a list of what I go thru to take a dealership car to the best possible Power/Weight ratio. I will be adding a step by step instruction on how I set up tunes using my "nintendo" setup later in this thread...(still trying to find all my paperwork/notes)

 

[Lionheart2113]

These lap times are with Racing Soft Tires and there was no tuning/set up changes done to any of the cars. I had to save it as a Jpeg file for this site, but the original is in excel and if you would like a copy for your notes or if you have any questions, just ask. My email is Lionheart2113gt@yahoo.com

 

[Lionheart2113]

ACURA NSX '91 (MR) (TO BE REDONE)

Starting out in the NSX @ 500pp, the car is extremely loose on acceleration. This meant that unless you pretended there was an egg under the gas pedal, the rear wheels would lose grip causing the rear of the car to slide out from under you. I spent more time looking at the side of the car than the rear. The other issue was on high speed turns, the car went tight, meaning that no matter which way you turned, the car didn’t want to react. So we end up with a car that I call (tight middle and loose off).
The first thing that I would try to fix is the “loose off” condition. I believe there is no sense in trying to fix any other issues first when it’s this difficult to keep the car under control. Alice Goodwin giving Cara Brett a sponge bath couldn’t keep this guy straight! If you don’t know who those 2 ladies are, it’s well worth the google search…but anyways. From my notes there are 3 ways of helping this, overall tuning on the LSD under the Drivetrain settings, addition of a spoiler (downforce), or adjusting the weight balance.
Since I was stubborn and tried keeping the car at the best power/weight ratio @ 500pp, I decided to try the LSD fix first. The other 2 options would affect the performance points.
Drivetrain/Fully Customizable LSD
Initial Torque-It says the higher this setting, the less change in performance and handling during acceleration and deceleration possibly increasing understeer (tight). But yet when I raised the setting from 10 to 60, it was a big help on the tight middle, but no help on the loose off.
Acceleration Sensitivity-“Higher the amount, the more traction can be obtained, increases understeer, this can be used to combat oversteer (loose).” Resetting the Initial Torque back to original, I lowered the acceleration sensitivity down to 5. It practically eliminated the loose off, but killed the overall turning, making it go from tight middle to tight everything! It seemed that adjusting this down to 5 was a cheap and cheerful way of putting traction control on the rear wheels of the car. The only major issue with my set up was, because I use an automatic transmission, it sounded like the car was going to blow up and took forever to change into the higher gear coming out of the turn. Might not be so bad for those of you who drive manual giving you just a little bit more time before changing gear, I don’t know so I can’t comment on that.
Deceleration Sensitivity-“The higher this setting, the more stable the car will be under braking, causing understeer when cornering”. And they aren’t joking! Once again I reset everything back to original and raised this up to 60. Unless you want to know what the steering wheel tastes like, you might not want to increase this too much. The car was extremely tight going into the turn, slowing down so much that it only made the loose off worse because you found yourself going 40mph when you should be taking that particular turn at 60mph.
I wasn’t concerned with the deceleration ability so I didn’t really bother with changing this setup after that. So to finally try to fix the loose off, I raised the Initial Torque and slightly lowered the Acceleration Sensitivity. Unfortunately, if you can’t tell by the picture, I ended up having to put the spoiler on. I never found the right combination for eliminating the loose off without hurting the overall turn. So biting the bullet, I changed the settings to this…
500pp/Engine@100%/weight@1131R/365HP/3.04ratio
Installing the ECU chip and the Semi-Racing exhaust.

-Increased downforce of the spoiler.
Drivetrain
-Increase Initial Torque
-Decrease Acceleration Sensitivity
Suspension
-Lowered ride height, more @ rear
-Increased Spring Rate F/R, more @ rear
-Increased Dampers (Ext&Comp) along with ARB (Anti Roll Bars)
-Increased Camber Angle F/R more @ front
-Decreased Toe Angle @ front (Toe-out)
-Increased Brake Strength F/R
Like I’ve said before, I’m not here to dictate what settings should be what, just an overview on what I found that helps me. Running this car on Sport Soft Tires, d-pads, and auto transmission at Grand Valley Speedway, my fastest lap was 2.02.1

 

[Motor City Hami]

I received some feedback from mobile users when I started my tuning garage. PDFs are very difficult for mobile users. You may want to place one tune per post in text (photos ok too) and post links in one of these first three posts.

I like the amount of detail that you wrote for the NSX. Very good thought to discuss the challenges of the car and what you did to make it faster.

One other thought. There aren't that many beginners joining GT5 this late in the game's life. You may want to just pick a clever garage name. You may get visits from more than just beginners.

 

[Lionheart2113]

Thanks for that. Being new I'm all for the advice, hopefully I'll figure it out! That's a great tuning site you have btw with some pretty amazing cars. Will def keep under my favs and refer others to you. Thanks again.

 

[Lionheart2113]

Honda Integra Type R (DC5) '04
226HP/1122kg/430pp (Tuned for 430pp FF Seasonal)
Comfort/Soft Tires

Note: DS3 with Automatic Transmission
All Driving Aids off except ABS =1
Steering Sensitivity = 5

Refurbishing
200 mile “break in” then oil change

Classic Parts Purchased
Transmission: Fully Customizable Transmission
Clutch: Twin-Plate
Flywheel: Semi-Racing
Differential: Fully Customizable LSD
Suspension: Fully Customizable Kit

Performance Parts Purchased
Weight/Chassis
Weight Reduction Stage 3
Window Weight Reduction

Engine

Intake

Exhaust
Catalytic Converter: Sports

Turbo Charger

ADJUSTMENTS

Weight Distribution
Balance: 58/42
Amount: +118
Position: +22

Engine
Power Limiter: 96.3%

LSD ____________________Front/Rear
Initial Torque:_______________0/5
Acceleration Sensitivity:_____0/15
Deceleration Sensitivity:_____0/5

Suspension Settings
Ride Height: -18/-6
Springs: 11.2/8.1
Dampers Ext.: 9/8
Dampers Com.: 6/7
Anti-Roll Bars: 3/2
Camber: 2.2/1.8
Toe: -0.12/-.10

Brake Balance: 6/8

Transmission:

 

[Lionheart2113]

(TO BE REDONE)

Next car on the tuning list is the Alfa Romeo 8C Competizione '08 500pp. This car did not change for the highly debatable 2.10 version update. Driving this car around on the practice races ignited an interest to tune it further. I felt this car was an animal, very quick, and might be a small threat to the "straight line" power of the Lexus LFA...not sure yet.
Starting off, it was tight going into the turns. You could physically see the screen background jerk from side to side. That can't be a good thing. The other problem was loose off...that was to be expected, being an FR car and like I said, an animal. Different about this type of loose though, is it's more of a sophisticated loose(like a high dollar escort). Hard to describe really. Coming out of a sharp turn at low speed, it's as loose as any other high powered FR, but on mid to high speed turns, where you are mashing the gas and turning the wheel hard(or in my case, pressing on the d-pad till my finger turns white), you can slowly feel the rear of the car losing grip gradually. If you catch it right towards the exit of the turn, you're fine, if not it will try to kill you. When I was running the laps, I noticed that "slower is faster". What I mean is that with this type of car, easing off of the throttle through turns and backing up your braking points/marks, floating the car into the turns, was faster than trying to hammer and force the car around the track solely on brute strength. Doing this helped with the tight entering the turns and I haven't started tuning yet.
To help with the loose off, I once again decreased acceleration sensitivity and to help a little more with the tight braking, I reduced the deceleration sensitivity. You can probably do the same with adjusting the power of the front and rear brakes. All that was left to do was some small tuning changes in the suspension.
Drivetrain
-Decreased Acceleration Sens.
-Decreased Deceleration Sens.
Suspension
Lowered ride height - If you do lower this, reducing the F/R the same amount is best, just be careful and don't go too far. Trying to ease the car more into the turns is key, but be mindful of the apex of the turn itself. If you clip the apex, it will shock the car.
Springs-Raised both F/R, more @ rear
Increased Dampers (Ext&Comp) left the ARB
Increased Camber both F/R more @ front
Little toe out up front (-value)
Very little more toe in at the rear (+value)
Brakes
Small increase @ F/R

I'm not 100% done tuning this car yet. It doesn't cost that much for the car, and I think that if an expert tuner gets a hold of it, it would be amazing.

 

[Lionheart2113]

PAGE 1

I want to apologize for taking so long on completing most of this first sheet. I’ve been focusing a little more on the 2nd and 4th sheets. To be honest, I’ve been neglecting this one only because of the 3 TT’s on there. Not sure why I even included them, but who knows, they might actually be worth the metal they’re made out of. If you haven’t noticed or guessed, I’m not a huge TT fan. Sure it was a nice car to have back in GT2, but thank the heavens for the advancements in technology; we are not stuck with it. They might be fast, like some of their times show, but they are extremely boring to drive. During the test races, I found myself driving with my subconscious in deep thought pondering questions such as “How close does a fly get before turning upside down to land on the ceiling?” or “Why is there braille on the numbers of the drive up ATM machine?” I can’t put my finger on it, but I’d much rather drive the R8 ’07. Lap times are very similar, except on courses with long straights. It just feels like you are actually driving the R8 as opposed to just riding in something that looks similar to the Volkswagen Beetle lumbering along on a Sunday drive to the garden center. Time will tell.

 

[Lionheart2113]

PAGE 2



Once again, the times listed are using Racing Soft Tires w/out any adjustments made to the car.

 

[Lionheart2113]

PAGE 3

Not a bad sheet to do, except for the 2 Corvettes on there that you can't really do anything with. They are listed only for the hope that maybe we'll be able to tune these some how some way. Loads of these cars still need to be sent to the track and timed. Since they are 600pp and over, I'll come back and get them later unless anyone has times that they would want to post. Just remember that they are not adjusted/tuned and are using Racing Soft Tires.

 

[Lionheart2113]

I was asked if I used the “Transmission Trick” on any of my setups. I’ve heard them referred to as Transmission Trick or Flipping the Transmission”. I’ve got 3 different versions of messing around with the transmission….I’m not sure which is called what, but for the sake of this I’ll just call them A/B/C.
The car I used for this was the RGT ’00 (500pp). I love this car, before 2.10, I could use it to deal with the infamous Elise or the GT ‘12’s, on certain tracks of course. Still couldn’t hold a candle stick to the LFA on the Gring, but those things in life you just have to except. After making all of the NA tunes that you want on a specific car, reset the transmission to default.

A

1. Max speed all the way up (right)
2. Final Gear all the way down (left)
3. Go back to max speed, adjust 1 down then 1 back up (this should put you back to max, but the numbers will be different) be sure to exit the adjustment by hitting “X”
4. Then adjust using the max speed slider

B

1. Max speed all the way down (left)
2. Final gear slider all the way up (right)
3. Back to max speed, adjust 1 up, then down 1 back to minimum. (Hit “X” to set)
4. Adjust using the max slider

C

1. Final Gear all the way up (right)
2. Max speed all the way up (right) hit “X”
3. Max speed all the way down (left) hit “X”
4. Adjust speed settings using the Final Gear to get to required mph/kph.


I took the RGT ’00 out on the speed test track and ran it for the ¼ mile test. I used auto transmission and racing soft tires F/R. I just mashed the gas and went. Set ups A&B were very similar, but set up C was quicker on all 3 times (0-60/0-100/¼ mile). And before all of the pro dragsters hop out of their seats spilling their juice box on their racing suit, I know this isn’t entirely accurate. Just mashing the gas on an auto transmission can launch you off the line at different RPM’s, varying the results. So I took it to Grand Valley and once again for set ups A&B were very close, set up C was averaging .200 faster than the others. Having said all that, the one that I think is the best all-rounder and the one I use on all my set ups is set up A, but you can try this for yourself and see which fits your driving style and track.

On a side note, if you feel like doing more research on this, I would suggest that you don’t type “tranny tricks/tips” into your search bar…you might find yourself explaining your search history to your partner or boss!

UPDATED Feb. 21st, 2013

Right, I’m going to add a few more transmission settings than just A/B/C. I’ve been around to a few tuning shops and started testing some of theirs. I’ll call them D/E and I think I might have stumbled upon 2 more when testing…F/G. What started this off I was doing a GT500 car @ 600pp at Fuji. I was going to use the Yellowhat, but thanks to the revised 2.11 pp changes, that car lost some of its luster(or should I say it magically increased 34pp) so I switched to an Arta NSX. I said before in this segment that I used setup A for all of my tunes, I then started using setup D because of how it gave the automatic transmission better grip coming out of low 2nd gear corners. Example…Some of my FR cars were struggling coming out of the turns, perhaps due to the decreased accel sensitivity on the LSD, or it could be some mathematical equation dealing with the Torque/RPM, but they would sound horrible rev’ing the nuts out of the engine on these turns and taking too long to change gears. Yes I’ll admit knowing the exact science to this prob would be helpful, but it just seems that every car is different and it’s tough to say that a particular set up can be used on all or even most cars as I’ll prove here in a bit.
Here are the setups from other garages, now before anyone says anything, these 2 guys are the some of the best on GTPlanet (I would love to have their knowledge and racing experience) and I know that they are very helpful and would never point anyone in the wrong direction. Like I said, I personally switched to setup D because it was a far better acting tune than setup A for automatic transmissions.

D

Final Gear-Move to Highest
Max Speed-Move to Lowest
Highest Gear-Move to Highest
2nd Gear Adjustments Low Power Cars = Down just a little
Medium Power Cars = Down about ½ of available slider
High Power Cars = Down about ¾ of available slider
Middle Gears-Even spacing between 2nd and highest gear (6 speed box adjust 3/4/5, don’t touch 2 or 6)
1st Gear Adjustments Low Power Cars = Not much
High Power Cars = Most of the way
Use Final Gear to max out car on longest straightaway

E

Final Gear-Move to Highest
Max Speed-Move to Lowest
Spreading the Gears-If you take a good look at the gears for adjusting, you’ll see bigger hash marks, we’ll call them 0-10. On a 6 speed box, they advise to space them like this meaning equal spacing
(1st Gear=0 all the way to left/low) (2nd Gear=2 or 2nd large hash mark) (3rd Gear=4 or 4th large hash mark) (4th Gear=6) (5th Gear=8) (6th Gear=10 all the way right/high)
Use Final Gear to max out car on longest straightaway

For using high powered cars or cars with Stage 3 Turbo, there have been debates on how to spread the gears, but I’m going to go with the original owner because I trust this tuner.
(1st/0)(2nd/1)(3rd/2½)(4th/5)(5th/7½)(6th/10)



So there are setups D/E in all their glory. Tuning the Arta, I decided to take it to the 1 mile speed test and see what the differences were. During all of the sorting out I had accidently left off the Stage 2 turbo only giving me 587pp instead of 600pp, didn’t think anything of it, so came up with this.

These are using an automatic transmission with no adjustments to LSD/Suspension on Racing Soft Tires.
You can see that setup A has the jump off the line, but setup C makes itself known for the rest of the segments. That got me wondering what can be done to 1st gear to make setup C as fast as setup A at the start. This is what I’ll call setup F. I don’t know if this tune is out there (possibly on drag racing forums) but this is how I modified setup C to make the new one.

F

Final Gear-Move to Highest
Max Speed-Move to Lowest
1st Gear-It’s original position is around hash mark 3½, I moved it to 4 for first test then to 4½ and so on.
After moving 1st Gear to desired hash mark…use Final Gear to max out car on longest straightaway.
For the Arta I used a Top Speed(upper right corner) of 202mph.

Now that I found a setup that was different and faster I wanted to test it a little more (seems best to have documentation for proof). I put on the stage 2 turbo and brought the Arta NSX back up to 600pp.

As the times show, what was the best without the Turbo is not the best with. It must be something to do with turbo lag or some other cosmic imbalance far out of my comprehension. Wanting to know more I did another test session, this time using a BMW Concept 1 Series tii ’07 (FR). I put everything on it (except for Turbo/Sport Cat. Converter/only Semi Racing Exhaust) got it up to 451bhp and it’s just over the 200mile mark so I don’t have to worry about that. The other part of the test shows me taking off all of the extras and putting on Stage 3 turbo bringing it up to the same 451bhp. Now the sheet shows that for this configuration, setup A is the fastest in all times… reduced BHP/different car??? I was hoping that my new setup (F) was going to be the fastest non turbo tune…not a chance, nothing is that easy in this game. Once again, I pondered about how I could possibly make setup A better by changing the 1st gear….hence SETUP (G). Setup G is the same as Setup A but with a 1st Gear change…

G

Max Speed-Move to highest
Final Gear-Move to Lowest
Max Speed-Move to desired mph to max out car on longest straightaway
1st Gear-Move to lowest (0 hash) yes, this final adjustment is out of order from what you would normally do.

What does this mean??? Well, it seems that SETUP (G) is the fastest for this particular car with or without Turbo. Does that mean it’s the best, I don’t know. If there’s one thing that I’ve learned in my experience of fine tuning…nothing is certain, test EVERYTHING. I want to take these setups to the track and test out a few more cars like the ones for the BMW, but I’ve gotta wait till my son gets done watching his new Scooby Doo DVD! If anyone is still awake after reading this, well done, I found myself having to go outside for a few breaks while typing this. As always, if anyone has any thoughts or perhaps can explain why some of these setups are better, I’d be happy to hear/discuss it.

YELLOW = 1st
GREEN = 2nd
BROWN/ORANGE = 3rd

I decided to take out a GT-R first. It atleast has both NA/Turbos that can be installed and a little more horsepower than the BMW. From the drag racing tests you can see that installing the Turbos can change which setup might be king. Setup (G) looks to be the best all around, but I'm not done with the tests. Just because it's good from a stopped start doesn't mean that it will have the RPM range needed to make it quick around the track. I want to take these setups to Grand Valley and a smaller track with loads of turns/gear changes. It might be a little while for the track times, I need to put a decent tune on the GT-R first in order to feel confident with the times I'll be giving. Once again, this test is just to try and find the best transmission setup for those of us using an automatic transmission. I'd be curious to see what the times would be for a manual.

Added to March 1, 2013


These are my findings for the different transmission settings using the GT-R SpecV Academy Version ’09. All of these times are at Grand Valley Speedway on Sport Soft Tires using the following tune…

Weight-(1519kg)
Added (152kg) with (+35) Position
LSD Settings
Initial Torque: F (5) R (8)
Accel Sens: F (5) R (30)
Decel Sens: F (5) R (15)
Torque Dist.: (30%/70%)
Suspension
Ride Height: F (-9) R (-14)
Spring Rate: F (17.0) R (13.5)
Dampers Ext.: F (8) R (7)
Dampers Comp.: F (5) R (7)
ARB: F (3) R (2)
Camber Angle: F (2.1) R (1.8)
TOE: F (-.10) R (+.04)
Brake Balance: F (4) R (6)

I put the orange(ish) highlights on the part I wanted to discuss first (Setup B/C/F-5½). Notice that all 3 lap times are far slower than the others, but also notice what they have in common with each other. Got it yet? They all have issues with being “tight/snug center”. This is the worst thing for a racecar as any racer will tell you. If you can’t get the car to roll thru the center of the turn (smooth) it will affect your corner exit which will eventually lead to a slower time going down the straightaway. Simples!

The next point isn’t highlighted, but I wanted to talk about Setup D/E (the ones I got from respected tuners). Don’t get me wrong on these 2… just because the lap times are just slightly slower than the quickest, they were absolutely brilliant to drive. Now I know why these guys are pro! I’m guessing that if I fined tuned both of those setups with simple adjustments, to fit my driving style, their times would meet or beat the best one I have. (Will def. be testing that)
The thing that bothers me the most are the other highlights. I tried grouping them together but separate if that makes any sense. If you read thru my novel on transmission setups, Setup F-½ & F-5½ are only slight variations of Setup C. (Setup C could be called Setup F-3½) The only changes are with the 1st gear, granted the adjustment to 1st gear is made before the “final setting”, but it seems that 1st gear is the only one that has different values. All of the other gears match exactly. In my testing @ Grand Valley, I never even used 1st gear. Setups D/E get close to dropping down to 1st (remember auto transmission being used here so I can’t dictate when it does, only that if my speed hits ±41mph it will drop into 1st but makes for a great launch off the corner!!) so why would it have so much affect on the car and lap time??? More of this is seen with Setup A/G but a better argument is that 1st gear is adjusted to make Setup G after the “final setting” is done in Setup A. This has me totally confused. With all of this testing I was really hoping to come to a final verdict, yet I’m left scratching my head giving you guys what feels like a “cop-out” response. The only thing I can say that is concrete at the moment is that if you have a car that is tight in the center of the turns (not rolling thru) or is struggling getting off of the turn (possibly too much power going to the rear wheels) the transmission might be a good place to look if you have exhausted all of your other tuning options. LSD settings is still top of the list in my books. I will be doing more tests with a wider range on cars. If you find this hard to believe (or think I'm just full of it),try this with one of your favorite cars and see what results you get.



Easy to read All Transmission Setups
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8148917#post8148917

 

[Lionheart2113]

AUDI R8 5.2 QUATTRO '09 (4WD) 500pp
NO AERO SPOILER vs. AERO SPOILER

WHO WILL WIN???

Audi R8 5.2 Quattro ’09 500pp
W/out Aero Spoiler = 60% Engine/1313R Weight/326 BHP/3.96 ratio
W/ Aero Spoiler = 59.1% Engine/1313R Weight/321BHP/4.02 ratio

I decided to tune these @ 500pp instead of 550pp first to get a good feel for what challenges there might be at the higher performance points level. The R8 definitely lives up to its reputation of being a forgiving, reasonably quick, and just plain fun to drive workhorse. And it doesn’t look that bad either for being a “footballers” car…except for the carbon fiber panel and chrome gas cap, but that’s just opinion. Starting out at Grand Valley Speedway on Sport Soft Tires the times were very similar…only .2 between them. I started with the Non Aero first.

Audi R8 5.2 Quattro ’09 500pp (No Aero Spoiler)

This being my first 4WD car, for this thread, I wanted to try to cover all the bases because there are so many more variables than the typical FF being tight and FR being loose. The R8 started off with a respectable time, but right away you can tell that it is 4WD and wants to go (the remotes shaking so bad it felt as if I’d been holding onto an orbital sander all day/goes away about 98mph) and it was also suffering with a tight condition, especially on corner exit. First thought was attacking the Torque Distributor.
Torque Distributor also called Torque Split is the 1 major adjusting component found on 4WD cars and not the others. This allows you to put more drive power to either the front or rear wheels. It’s pretty easy to understand, higher percentage to the front turns it more into an FF type of car and more to the rear is along the lines of an FR car. Simples! With the R8 being tight, I adjusted more power to the rear wheels to give me more of the FR feel getting the rear of the car to kick around a little bit(loose). It helped with the overall time knocking off 3 tenths, but like most adjustments, helping 1 thing might hurt something else. In this case it was the brakes; it became a little loose going into the turns. No worries though, it’s nothing that can’t be sorted out later.
Drivetrain/LSD
Initial Torque-Still looking for the car to handle a little better and be more on the loose side, I lowered the Initial Torque F&R. To quote MCH, the lower this setting the more oversteer is produced…nothing more nothing less. Since I wanted the car to turn more I adjusted the front down further than the rear. It helped even more with the tight condition.
Acceleration Sensitivity-With this being 4WD it is a little more difficult to see what needs to be done here. In fact the only time I could get any tires to turn red was over-driving into the turns. So I took another page out of MCHs’ LSD guide

MOTOR CITY TUNES
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4641238#post4641238

and lowered the tires down to Comfort Medium (By the way MCH if you’re reading this, I owe you another obnoxious green paint!). This allowed me to see which tires were turning red from center to exit, and it was the outside rear tire, typical. So this tells me that these settings need to be turned down, but beware turning them down too much. The lower you go, the more it will affect the overall turn(goes tight), which is a little more difficult to sort out, plus if you use an automatic transmission, it will hurt acceleration. Just remember that when adjusting, use baby steps. I don’t take major swings at an adjustment unless I’m looking for a Hail Mary, but 99% it won’t work.
Deceleration Sensitivity-I decided to try working with this adjustment more than I have in the past. I turned this down for both F&R, this made entering too loose for me, so I changed it back to default. I’ll try that again after more tuning is done.
Suspension
Ride Height-As always, lowering these settings will help the car handle and brake better, but at the cost of possibly being a rough ride. I lowered both F&R, a little lower in the front. This will coincide with the next adjustment on the list.
Spring Rate-Since I’m still on the hunt for making this car turn better and only being on Sport Soft Tires, I increased the rear, but only slightly increased the front. This helped with getting the front end to cooperate and turn.
Dampers-With not adjusting the Spring Rate too much, I left these at default. “If it ain’t broke don’t fix it” philosophy figuring the ride was pretty comfortable as is.
Anti-Roll Bars (ARB)-This one still has me a little confused…The game says that with stiffer springs, you need to lower this setting…the default is 4/4. So because I increased the rear spring stiffness, I thought that I needed to turn the rear ARB down. I turned the rear down 1 and left the front alone. This gave me 4/3, but when I took it out, it made the car seem to handle better, but the lap times really suffered, almost .6 slower! This has wiped out all of the time gain I’ve achieved so far. I decided to go opposite of what the game says and lowered the front instead 3/4. Lap times were quicker than before, but yet again, the tight condition was creeping back.
Camber Angle-With the tight condition coming back, I turned up the camber both F&R with more to the front to help turn. I would adjust this more if better tires were used.
Toe Angle-Still going after better handling, I decreased the “toe in” at the rear and increased the "toe out" up front to help get those front wheels to turn. All of this tightness is still being caused by the fact that there is power going to the front wheels, but because the engine is in the middle, it doesn’t have the weight. Just remember again, that a little goes a long way with these adjustments. I found myself only adjusting .1 at a time.
After all of this I went back to try and sort out the deceleration sensitivity. Turning both F&R down helps get the back end to turn better, making continuous opposing corners (chicane type turns) easier to handle. I can see why wheel users or even R2 button acceleration would be useful. Turning this setting down helps the car turn, but only if you have any form of throttle control. In my case, using “X” for throttle, it’s a little more difficult to control the accelerator, so I didn’t turn this down too much.
Brakes-This is an issue with the 5.2 ’09 R8. I was racing against a 500pp 4.2 ’07 R8, during tuning, and they were able to brake further down into the hard turns. I knew that what the ’07 lacked in power to the ’09 it made up for in control, but we are talking about 10’. Found myself closing my eyes anticipating being ran over almost every hairpin turn. I didn’t want to increase the front causing any more braking issues or going tight, so I decreased the rear to help the car just a bit, I’ll just have to accept that the ’07 will brake better than my ’09.
After all was said and done, the best lap that I ran at Grand Valley on Sports Soft Tires was 1.59.7, but I’ll be the first to admit, during that lap, the planets must have been in alignment because I can’t for the life of me get that time again. So I’ll go on average and consistent lap times here which are 1.59.9. So, a recap of the adjustments made for this car are…
Torque Split
-Increased more power to the rear
Drivetrain
-Decrease Initial Torque F&R more @ front
-Decrease Acceleration Sensitivity F&R
Suspension
-Lowered ride height F&R more @ front
-Increase Spring Rate F&R, slightly on front, a little more @ rear
-Dampers (Ext&Comp) didn’t change
-Decrease ARB (Anti Roll Bars) just 1 @ front
-Increase Camber Angle F&R more @ front
-Increase Toe Out @ front
-Decrease Toe In @ rear
-Decrease Brake strength @ rear

Audi R8 5.2 Quattro ’09 500pp (W/ Aero Spoiler)

Now it was time to start adjusting on the spoiler version. I took all of my settings from the non wing and put them on this car. Right out of the gate it was a lot tighter than the other, probably due to the spoiler on the back kicking the front end up more. (Tetter Totter or See Saw Affect) But because of the spoiler, there was a huge improvement on entering the sharp turns. I was able to brake closer to the turns, but fought the tight condition coming out of them. I threw everything, adjustment wise, at this car to lose the tight condition on exit. I changed the settings to give the front end more grip with no success, and I even changed some settings trying to make the rear end loose grip. Nothing seemed to work. I might just have to accept the fact that this is the problem I’m going to have unless I change the downforce settings or weight distribution. But the clear winner is the R8 with the Aero Spoiler. Even if I’m not 100% happy with it, it is still averaging .15 per lap faster than the other. And I don’t have to worry as much about getting ran over going into the corners. But with preliminary laps done on the 550pp versions, the one without Aero is averaging .5 faster. I’m betting that might change.

 

[Lionheart2113]

 

[Lionheart2113]

 

[Lionheart2113]

I've received a few emails and players online who share my pain of using a DS3 controller. If you don't know by now, my setup is the worst possible that is out there, but I think I can still be competitive and win some races while having great fun. Granted I won't be winning any GT Academy events or be in the top 100 for Time Trials, but I can accept that, just like I'll never be a Top Gun pilot or a lesbian. I've also been told that the spreadsheets are decent but some of my reviews are a little confusing...for that I apologize. I'll be trying to describe my tunes a little better, but still going to cling to my beliefs on not dictating or saying these are the perfect tunes. Like I've said before, I'm not a pro tuner, just someone who wants to put down respectable lap times, and learn from the greats and see how I can apply it to my circumstances. I'll still continue to post the spreadsheets and a few tips for better driving for racing online.

 

[Lionheart2113]

Next few cars on the tuning list...

Not sure yet, preparing GT500 car for race this weekend.

 

[Lionheart2113]

(TO BE REDONE....THANKS AGAIN VERSION 2.10 FLOP!!!)

Dodge Challenger SRT8 ’08 500pp
99.0% Engine/1612 Weight/564 BHP/2.81 ratio

This is my very first attempt at EVER fine tuning a muscle car. For all of the races that required one (A-Spec), I just dealt with the issues that come with this type of car. Starting out at Grand Valley on Sport Soft Tires, it was a beast. The sheer speed of this guy was a very nice surprise, but if you showed it a corner, it would run and hide under its mama’s apron. It is a very heavy car with most of the weight in the front. This caused tight entering and loose off. Very loose off, great for drifting, but not for speed. I couldn’t even get down to the apex (tight) or off the corner properly (loose). All of this means that the LSD and weight distribution needs sorting out.
LSD
As always, I left the Initial Torque alone and concentrated on the accel and decel sensitivity. I went down on the adjustments for both making sure that the rear tires turned red at the same time for 2nd gear corners and braking/rolling thru the center was improved. Once you make these changes, you will actually be able to handle this car in and out of the turns even if it is still just a little edgy loose. I could tell by the way the car reacted that the weight in the front was going to be a major issue, so I added max weight and moved it all to the rear, this is also when I put on the spoiler, but like so many times, this will encourage understeer (tight) coming out of the turns.
SUSPENSION
I will try to save you guys the hours I spent chasing my tail in this section. (I logged over 250 miles just in this section alone!) Don’t get too aggressive with the suspension. It’s a big muscle car therefore it’s not going to handle like a Ferrari. If you try to force major changes in springs/dampers/ARB you are not going to get the results you are looking for. Small tweaks here and there are what I ended up with. I even went to a few tune garages (by this time I was getting desperate)… and tried out their settings; might be great for them, not for me. My lap times showed this difference.
After I accepted the fact that this is a mule and will do what it wants, the rest was just minor tuning with the ride height/camber/TOE. I was just looking for more overall grip because the rear tires where trying so hard to push the car out of the corners. It was struggling from 2nd to 3rd gear…might have been a different story if I didn’t use an automatic transmission.
TOP TIP:
Driving around in this car will be like riding in a ½ filled bathtub, as soon as you hit a turn, all of the weight pushes to the outside wheels. From my experiences, there is only so much you can do about that. With this type of car, it pays to BE PATIENT. It will dip and sway, maybe be a little tight thru high speed turns, but that’s ok. My best lap times were credit to me waiting on the car settling down before giving it the beans out of the corner. Backing up braking points and rolling thru the center of the turns before jumping on the gas might seem a little slow, but this car is eager to please and will do so on the straights.

 

[Lionheart2113]

Well it seems that the Performance Points have been put back to the way they were in version 2.09. This has messed up alot of the cars on my spreadsheets, I will be correcting those ASAP while working on what is coming soon....with helpful guidance and a few emails I've been pondering starting a proper/formal garage with controller tunes and basic advice in mind...

This is my idea for my garage. Don't really want to call it a tuning shop due to my lack of experience. I'm not sure, might just wait and see about truly starting it for GT6, but I will say that Moderators have been kind; letting me do this thread without a proper title. Thanks guys!

 

[Lionheart2113]

Transmission Update 02/13/2013

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8038113#post8038113


A
Max Speed ▲ / Final Gear ▼ / Adjust using Max Speed

B
Max Speed ▼ / Final Gear ▲ / Adjust using Max Speed

C
Final Gear ▲ / Max Speed ▼ / Adjust using Final Gear

D
Final Gear ▲ / Max Speed ▼ / Highest Gear ▲
2nd Gear - Low Power Cars = Left ± 25%
---------- Medium Power Cars = Left ± 50%
---------- High Power Cars = Left to ½ hash mark
Middle Gears – Spread remaining gears evenly (3-5 on 6 speed box)
1st Gear – Move left (Low power little/High power ½ hash mark)
Adjust using Final Gear

E
Final Gear ▲ / Max Speed ▼ / Spread gears (0/2/4/6/8/10 hash marks) / Adjust using Final Gear

F (½ hash mark)
Final Gear ▲ / Max Speed ▼ / 1st Gear – ½ hash mark / Adjust using Final Gear

F (5½ hash mark)
Final Gear ▲ / Max Speed ▼ / 1st Gear – 5½ hash mark / Adjust using Final Gear

G
Max Speed ▲ / Final Gear ▼ / Adjust Max Speed / Set 1st Gear ▼

 

[Lionheart2113]

Nissan GT-R SpecV Academy Version '09 (4WD)

These are some other tunes that I found for this car. I've decided to do this spreadsheet as well as my personal tune to give everyone a chance to see some of the other adjustments that might be out there and if they might work! I've put some of my notes down at the bottom as well as some lap times to go by. Please let me know if you think this is easy and fun to follow. I plan on doing every car like this (maybe slightly modified) from now on. And as always, if you would like the original files/templates for your own notes, just ask!👍

I love GT-R’s, they are 1 of my most favorite cars out there, my wife thinks I’m crazy since she is all for the exotic supercars (Lambo…Ferrari… you get the picture). In real life they are quick off the line (if you use the launch control…let the CPU do all the settings for you), they look like they would literally eat any car that opposes it, and for the price it truly is an amazing piece of engineering. The same can be said for the GT-R’s in GT5. It is a great value for money and there are about 2 million of them to choose from. With this car being 4WD, you can make it a tame all grip comfortable car, or you can switch things around and get the arse end swinging out with every turn. The GT-R is another car that is constantly used on asphalt in one race then put on the dirt or snow for the next because it can handle it.

Weight Distribution/Torque Distributor/LSD

Taking the stock version out @ 600pp sport soft tires, it was a little too tight for my liking. I’m not a fan of driving a car I know is powerful and yet I find myself tapping the E-brake in the center of the turns and the throttle coming out of turns or else it would send me into the fence. I added on the extras for more horsepower (all but the Turbos) and it gave me 610pp, so I just added weight to take me back down to 600pp (152kg) I moved the weight towards the back of the car (+35) to give me a weight split of (48/52) instead of its original (52/48). I also decided that I was asking a lot of the front tires on this car. Think about it, you are wanting the front tires to carry the engine, brake, put out power, and oh yeah, they need to steer the friggin’ thing! So to help take some of those burdens away from the front tires and make the rear tires carry their weight (literally) I moved the Torque Distributor to 30%/70%. I also wanted to start cutting out some more work that the front end was doing, so in the LSD I took the front down to 5 on everything. After lowering the grade of tires and figuring out the rear Accel Sens (typical around the 10 mark) to make the rear tires spin at the same rate, you can notice that there is a slight tail wiggle mainly on chicanes. The only explanation I have for this is that the rear wheels want to go, but the front wheels won’t allow it (Unbalanced work load?). So I raised the Accel Sens to 30, kinda forcing the rear wheels to spin more making the back end kick out. You can raise the front accel to battle the new oversteer, but with every increase the car will get tight causing the tail wiggle to come back. Taking it out to the track I found that it was ridiculously loose…maybe should have raised the front Accel Sens??? I like driving a loose racecar, but even though it was fast, I always felt on edge (would be great if you found yourself in the lead off the first turn and just had to concentrate on your marks). Don’t get me wrong, fast is good, but I would also like the flexibility of being more aggressive if I had to be in a race. I was lacking that confidence in this car. I put down my fastest lap so far of 1.50.994, but my average was 1.51.4 and like I said, it was not a comfortable car to drive. I was hoping that future adjustments would be able to sort that out.

Suspension

Nothing worked! It’s as simple as that. I tried everything! I used all sorts of combinations (over the course of 2 days) and even though I could make the car comfortable, the lap times really suffered dropping me back down to the 1.51.6 range on my best laps. I was not impressed I even debated changing the ABS settings from 1 to something higher. This is when I decided that instead of throwing the controller at the TV (might be a good excuse to get a new one) I would just go with the stock setup for my transmission tests taking everything back to original and that changed everything…

Transmission

Without putting too much on here about my findings (saving that for my transmission tests) I realized that doing the stock setup, no matter the transmission (Setup A-G), the car would go more on the tight side with some setups resulting in better roll thru the center of the corners. I’ll admit, before this test I really only thought of the transmission as a way to get thru the gears faster, keeping the RPMs up thru the corners, and maybe thru the downshifts, helping the car during braking. This has thrown a spanner in the works as far as my priority list of which things I tune on a car first…I usually saved the transmission till last…thanks to what I found on this car, I will def have to put it up higher on the list. This got me thinking about using this info to help my oversteer situation. I used Setup G with all of the changes listed in the LSD/Torque/Weight section and it was a great improvement to the loose/uncontrollable car I had before. It wasn’t perfect, but I was putting down nice lap times and was more confident driving the car into the turns.

Suspension 2

This time around I was able to adjust this area with the results I was hoping to accomplish earlier. I went mostly for front grip settings and as far as the TOE, I went for more exit grip and better rolling thru the center of the turns. I can now run consistent lap times around 1.50.9 and feel confident that I could handle being in a group of cars in a race. I will update my transmission settings for this car once my tests have been completed. At the moment I used Setup G with a Top Speed of 196mph.

 

[FFIXMaster]

I just read through your transmission update; very interesting read. I love how you took the scientific method with it, assuming nothing and testing everything so you could compare all the results and then draw your conclusions. Bravo.

I'll admit I am guilty of just dropping C onto all of my cars that I don't have somebody's tune to follow for and not really giving it much thought, I think it's a carryover from GT3 and 4, when I was told it's the single best way to tune a transmission and I took it at face value because it came from somebody that ought to have known. The more I look into tuning myself for GT5, though, the more I wish I'd started learning sooner, so maybe I could be of some use to the ongoing debate. I am definitely wishing I had the test track DLC so I could at least check some of this out and maybe come up with my own theories to add to the pile. Ah well, c'est la vie.

I am definitely hoping this sparks some discussion from the people in the know, I'll certainly follow that with excitement.

 

[Lionheart2113]

Thanks for that, much appreciated. I wish I had taken more notice of these things before as well. I've never been this "in depth" with my tuning on any other GT game and should have (hiding in the shadows with my trusty d-pad/nintendo setup). I'm still in the early going of my track tests for transmissions, and I would hate to give out theories without proof, but transmissions have more affect on how the car behaves than I ever realized, and my GT-R tune will prove some of that.

 

[OdeFinn]

@Lionheart2113,
Longer Final: good for long straight, bad for cornering(understeers), reasonable for car with a lots of torq, hard to recover if skidding on cornering and starts oversteer. Slightly slow on acceleration if too long or not sufficient amount of torq availabe.

Shorter Final: bad on long straight, good for cornering(if too short starts oversteer too easily), reasonable for car with low torq, easy to recover on skidding situations. Quick acceleration if enough grip.

Longest/shortest finals, bad for almost all situations

Finding balance for cornering and straights is a key for our quest, but final gear is not only solution, finetuning gears and making different LSD for different transmission(inc.final) is important.
This comment is valid for normal race track racing, not for drag, on drag you can calculate and test one "Best" setup.

 

[Lionheart2113]

I see what you mean. Sooo many variations, and these tests have only been done on mostly 1 track and I haven't even touched the Suspension adjustments yet. Not only that, but I ran into a small glitch today that might hurt some of my lap times and findings. I'm a little nervous about it.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?t=275634

 

[Lionheart2113]

It's been a long time since I've put any spec sheets on this thread. With GT6 feeling like its release is just around the corner, (and a new job contract that will have me traveling to China/Australia/US for weeks at a time) has me thinking and working on new and different spreadsheets focusing more on the statistics of GT5 and hoping that most will carry over in the new game.
We've all heard that when adding power options to a car certain things need to be put on for the best power. If you look at my 2.11 spec sheets, I too, followed the same philosophy with certain options always put on first going after the best power/weight ratio. I decided to try a new sheet showing these different options based on a certain performance point level along with different transmission setups. This is not a tune, just a bunch of possibilities and numbers that might help you decide what options are best for this particular car based on what you might be using it for. As always, if you think I missed something or if you have any questions, please let me know. Also if you would like a copy of the spreadsheets or any version of, just ask, they are in Excel '07.

Maserati Gran Turismo S '08
DRAG SETTINGS
1 Mile Drag
All driving aids off except ABS=1
Racing Soft Tires
Automatic Transmission (Note-Throttle must be applied before start screen shows up...sorry Manual users, I'm afraid these numbers will more than likely vary for you)
LAP TIME SETTINGS
Lap times are from Grand Valley Speedway
All driving aids off excpet ABS=1 & Control Sens=5
Sport Soft Tires
Automatic Transmission using Setup "E"

These next few sheets show the variations that can be acheived for this car at 550pp. In order to get a decent and more consistent lap time, I changed the stock LSD settings.
LSD change-Accel Sens=14

Note-Detailed drag times are chosen by highest/lowest RPM and fastest 1 mile time using stock transmission times.

Best Drag Time = Engine Tune Stage 3 (highest RPM)
Best Lap Time = Engine Tune Stage 2 (highest RPM)

 

[FastAShecK]

I love racing. I’m not all about the technical aspects of why ½torque of (Y) multiplied by the square root of 37 is equal to why a smurf is blue….I couldn’t care less.

Now that's funny right there

Roflmao good one bro 👍👍

 

[Lionheart2113]

Aston Martin V12 Vantage '10
DRAG SETTINGS
1 Mile Drag
All driving aids off except ABS=1
Racing Soft Tires
Automatic Transmission (Note-Throttle must be applied before start screen shows up)
LAP TIME SETTINGS
Lap times are from Grand Valley Speedway
All driving aids off excpet ABS=1 & Control Sens=5
Sport Soft Tires
Automatic Transmission using Setup "E"

In order to get a decent and more consistent lap time, I changed the stock LSD settings.
LSD change-Accel Sens=12

Note-Detailed drag times/lap time are chosen by highest/lowest RPM and Engine Tune Stage 1 time using stock transmission.
550pp Compare Sheet

Best Drag Time = Engine Tune Stage 0 (highest RPM)
Best Lap Time = Engine Tune Stage 1

 

[Lionheart2113]

Seasonal Events

580pp Stars & Stripes (Available June 20, 2013 - ~~)
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8609738#post8609738

710pp Dream Car Championships (Available July 4th, 2013 - ~~)
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8699625#post8699625

430pp FF Challenge (Available July 18th, 2013 - ~~)
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8704703#post8704703

500pp FR Challenge (Available August 1st, 2013 - ~~)
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8736292#post8736292

530pp 4WD Challenge (Available August 15th, 2013 - ~~)
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8744437#post8744437

871pp Ferrari Formula Challenge (Available August 29th, 2013 - ~~)
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8783580#post8783580



#65 Time and Drift Trials (Available: June 27, 2013 - July 11, 2013)
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8609702#post8609702
Note: I had to get these stats over a week before the end date due to being away for 3 weeks.

#66 Time and Drift Trials (Available July 11, 2013 - July 25, 2013)
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8683872#post8683872

#67 Time and Drift Trials (Available July 25, 2013 - August 8, 2013)
Not going to give this time trial any recognition due to hackers/cheats. Will keep in my notes to be used for another time. It's a shame really.

 

[Lionheart2113]

#65 Seasonal Time/Drift Trials
Time Trials

TT 1. Mercedes Benz C63 AMG: Nurburgring GP/F

Track: Nurburgring GP/F
Car(s) of Choice: *Forced* Mercedes Benz C63 AMG ‘08
PP: No Limit
Tires: Sports/Hard
Gold-2:26.000 Silver-2:28.000 Bronze-2:31.000
Best Times (1-100): 2:16.163-2:17.667

Tip:

TT 2. Ferrari F10 Spa Francorchamps

Track: Circuit de Spa-Franchorchamps/Change Weather
Car(s) of Choice: *Forced* Ferrari F10 ‘10
PP: No Limit
Tires: Racing/Rain
Gold-2:23.000 Silver-2:26.000 Bronze-2:33.000
Best Times (1-100): 2:06.314-2:11.789 (I have to tip my hat to these racers who put down lap times like these....very nice job!)

Tip: With my setup of (D-pads/”X” throttle/auto trans) you can imagine this time trial was a ‘you know what’. I had to change my normal settings in order to keep the car somewhat under control. The biggest gain for me was to be very patient on throttle (tapping) and only giving it the beans when I was going in a straight line. Even in a straight line, with auto trans, it spun the tires at the higher RPM’s just before the gear shift, I let off of the throttle at these points especially when coming up to a turn. The settings that I used to accomplish this were…
Traction Control = 8
Active Steering = Mild
ABS = 1
Control Sensitivity = 5

Drift Trials

DT 1. German non-racecars: Autumn Ring Mini Reverse

Track: Autumn Ring Mini Reverse
Car(s) of Choice: Mini Cooper 1.3i '98
CL600 '00
SL600 (R230) '04
PP: No Limit
Tires: Comfort/Soft
Gold-3500pts. Silver-2500pts. Bronze-1500pts.
Best Scores (1-100): 12,202-9,410 (I'm in spilt mind about using a slow car to achieve the high scores by just drifitng back and forth. I would love to see the replays of the Merc's to see if they drifted like you would expect to see. Having said all of that, even using the smaller cars it does take talent to get those types of scores...a talent level far above mine.)

Tip:

DT2. Racing Cars: Eiger Norwand K Trail Reverse
Track: Eiger Norwand K Trail Reverse
Car(s) of Choice: Celica GT-FOUR Rally Car (ST185) '95
Impreza WRC 2008
Starion 4WD Rally Car '84
(There were a few other rally cars used that qualified in the top 100)
PP: No Limit
Tires: Dirt Tires
Gold-7500pts. Silver-6500pts. Bronze-5500pts.
Best Scores (1-100): 21,325-16,705

Tip:

 

[Lionheart2113]

580pp Stars & Stripes Seasonal

Since I've already typed out what I've done for this seasonal I will just post the link from here. I know it's out of order on when it came out, but too much work to fix my screw up. Still a work in progress...

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?p=8587230#post8587230