Observation on Fanatec's disconnection problem

Energizerrr

(Banned)
1,115
Almost everyone here knows about the problem of Fanatec wheels simply dieing for a few seconds (PS3 mode goes off), initially I thought the problem is static electricity - so I grounded my cockpit, but no - the problem is still there.

While doing 9h Tsukuba endurance on GT5 I've experienced disconnects at least 10 times and here's the funny bit - all were on the same spot, all disconnects happen on turn 2 (the S curve after the 1st hairpin, just at the checkpoint).


Can this be a GT5 related issue? Can Fanatec fix this via firmware update?
Discuss.
 
Odd, my wheel has not once disconnected on me. Not sure what to tell ya. I have heard the problem before, but usually grounding the rig helps. But you tried that already.

It may be a firmware issue.

Is your wheel connected to a power surge strip for powrr?
 
I will test this tonight on the same track and see if I get the same results:tup:

I have only been a Fanatec wheel owner for a month and play GT5 on a daily basis and haven't come across any disconnect issues (CSR)

A strange issue if it is just happening on the 9hr event, I will post back my results later on.
 
I got a release day PWTS and have had a handful of disconnects in that time. As far as I can tell they have been completely random. Would be interested to get others thoughts.
 
So far I have had disconnection problems only on computer, not on PS3, but today playing on PS3 for three hours, my wheel died completely.
 
Almost everyone here knows about the problem of Fanatec wheels simply dieing for a few seconds (PS3 mode goes off), initially I thought the problem is static electricity - so I grounded my cockpit, but no - the problem is still there.

While doing 9h Tsukuba endurance on GT5 I've experienced disconnects at least 10 times and here's the funny bit - all were on the same spot, all disconnects happen on turn 2 (the S curve after the 1st hairpin, just at the checkpoint).


Can this be a GT5 related issue? Can Fanatec fix this via firmware update?
Discuss.

I've noticed this too with my GT2. When it happened it would happen in the same spot. I grounded my rig and still had the same results.

This was not every time I raced the same circuit though. For example, I could race Tsukuba and have the issue in the same spot for a few laps. The next day I could race Tsukuba and not have issues at all or have issues in a different place.

One thing I did note was it happened when I was connected with the wireless dongle. Since I switched to wired, it has not happened to me at all.
 
Only disconnect I'm aware off is the 360 one.
Basically when altering degrees. If you alter above or below 270 it disconnects because it thinks it's a wireless wheel or pad. Perfectly normal.

I don't own a dongle for PS3. Would prefer cable connection to avoid possible lag anyhow.
 
I have had my GT2 disconnect at random times but never noticed if it was at the same place. My PS3 is awaiting my second rig which is in transit atm so I can't test it right now.

For you guys with grounding issues I wonder if a ground loop isolator would help, although I used mine for a hum with MY buttkicker.
 
I have had my GT2 disconnect at random times but never noticed if it was at the same place. My PS3 is awaiting my second rig which is in transit atm so I can't test it right now.

I must say I've only noticed the same spot a few times and mostly at La Sarthe (some serious grinding going on there). And since going to the wired connection I am quite sure it has not happened since.

For you guys with grounding issues I wonder if a ground loop isolator would help, although I used mine for a hum with MY buttkicker.

Once I grounded my rig my brake pedal issues went away.

Fortunately I've not experienced hum from my Buttkicker. I use the 300 W with a wireless connection to the Buttkicker amps.
 
Ok, so I've changed the spot the ground cable connected to my cockpit and I changed the socket the ground cable goes in and then I had a 40 minute go at the enduro - no disconnections, so far.

/off topic
Tsukuba 9h + stock M5 on slicks + Sonique and some other 90s songs on mp3 player = orgasm
Can't explain how epic it feels!
 
I must say I've only noticed the same spot a few times and mostly at La Sarthe (some serious grinding going on there). And since going to the wired connection I am quite sure it has not happened since.



Once I grounded my rig my brake pedal issues went away.

Fortunately I've not experienced hum from my Buttkicker. I use the 300 W with a wireless connection to the Buttkicker amps.

How did you ground your rig? I have my buttkicker plugged into a APC RS 1200 backup, tried various stripes I had around the house but no difference.
 
Same thing happens in Forza.. Controller goes awol usually as your turning right! (nature of the circuits?) I hadn't heard of it on GT5 until now!
 
gslooney
Same thing happens in Forza.. Controller goes awol usually as your turning right! (nature of the circuits?) I hadn't heard of it on GT5 until now!

My Microsoft wheel used to do it regularly.
Which Fanatec are you talking about?
Which Forza ?

I've not had problems at all recently with F4.
 
Hi, remember me? lol

As I said in the other awesome thread I also have this problem, but I only use the wheel on PC, and I only play 1 game, rFactor. It usually happens to me a lot (and doesn't matter what I'm doing in the game, it is random), but it has not happened to me in almost a week now. I don't know why it stopped. I changed nothing as far as I know. It happened multiple times after I updated the firmware on the wheel. I am clueless but I'd love to know what is going on.
 
I want to know that too, how did you ground? lol

Sorry for the delay in responding. I use a Playseat and have the GT2 bolted to it. I ran a wire from one of the bolts that holds the GT2 in, to the main ground for my house. The one that goes to the electrical panel. I'm set up in the basement.

I'd considered doing to the ground plug of a three pronged electrical outlet, but didn't feel comfortable have a loosely wrapped wire that close to the mains. Paranoid maybe, but definitely safer.
 
Update:
Been using the wheel everyday with a difference - not driving enduros/not letting the wheel overheat.
Experienced zero disconnections.

This must be the case of wheel overheating, it even says in the manual that wheel shouldn't be working for over 1h under constant FFB.
I'm 100% positive that overheating is the case.
 
Good to know, Thanks.

Guess we need to hook a forced air system to the side of the GT2 while driving :sly:
 
Yes, exactly (no joke).
It's winter so it's pretty hot in my room, however I have an A/C unit running directly above my TV, PS3 and cockpit so it'll be properly cooled in summer when I turn my A/C on.
 
It don't think it requires much airflow. I found the wheel much cooler when I simply pointed a fan at my rig about 6 or so feet away. It was a slight breeze but I think it helped keep me and my wheel cool.
 
Disconnects with the wheel happen due to overheating which can start after approximately one hour of constant use. Think endurance races on ovals. It says so more or less in the manual. From what I hear the CSR Elite and CSW won't have this issue due to their different designs and much bigger fans which are capable of producing far more airflow through the cooling ribs of the motors (40mm fans on CSR and prior versus 90mm or bigger fans (I reckon, due to the size of the base and what I see in the drilling templates) in the CSR Elite and CSW).
 
I wonder if there are any simple mods to place fans in the vents off the wheel base?

I don't know if the fan leads produce enough power for two fans, else you could hang one up in there with a zip tie or something? I don't know how big the holes are, nor how much room there is left inside of the casing.

Placing a 60mm fan instead of a 40mm fan should already produce more cooling power.



When looking at the video above at 5:56 there seems to be very little space. What you could do is mount another fan directly on the existing fan, of course of the same size as the existing fan (be sure to measure it). This should increase air pressure and cooling, although I don't know by how much. And again I don't know if there is enough power to run two fans from one lead on the circuit board.
 
It's not overheating for me, because I've been doing long stints (much longer than 1 hour at a time, sometimes even 4-6 hours without a break) and the wheel has not disconnected on me one time in 3 weeks now, even when the ambient temp is higher than normal.
 
Yeah it is pretty tight, but I think when we had my friends GT3RS apart it looked like we would have room for a blower fan. They cost much more, but seem to be a better airflow. HOWEVER I can't tell you the cooling was any better as we never finished the swap. He found it "easier" to just leave the shell off.
 
Disconnects with the wheel happen due to overheating which can start after approximately one hour of constant use. Think endurance races on ovals. It says so more or less in the manual. From what I hear the CSR Elite and CSW won't have this issue due to their different designs and much bigger fans which are capable of producing far more airflow through the cooling ribs of the motors (40mm fans on CSR and prior versus 90mm or bigger fans (I reckon, due to the size of the base and what I see in the drilling templates) in the CSR Elite and CSW).

I have had my CSR on for hours at a time with fan mode disabled and the wheel at the most will only get lukewarm, no disconnection issues either:tup:
 
Back