Options right now for Neo-Classic Competition?

[Avenger2000]

Is the only viable choice available right now the McLaren F1 GTR ‘95 that is purchasable via the Legend’s dealership? I don’t read of too many people using this car and it is like 12.5 million credits. Should I just wait until something like the Escudo pops up? I think I have an Audi Quattro Pike’s Peak but never heard of any using it for these races. Thanks.

 

[AmyUD06]

I did them all in a de-tuned Nissan R92CP (their Group C car). They should be doable in any detuned Group C.

 

[Eggstor]

You'll likely run into the most of the same problems with the 1995 F1 GTR I did with tuning up the Toyota Supra GT500. I ended up detuning a Porsche 962 C on one account and lucking out with weather on the Escudo

They should also be doable with the 1997 BMW McLaren F1 GTR and 1998 Mercedes-Benz CLK-LM, though you'll have to detune those cars a bit to get them under 800 PP.

 

[DextroCat]

Hmm maybe I’ll give it a try in the F1 to see if that’s even a good option or not. I used the CLK-LM the first time around and then the Group C cars when I wanted 1st. The ‘99 GTR GT500 should come up soon and it’s waaay cheaper than the F1 and just about as fast, not sure if it’s even fast enough either.

 

[Avenger2000]

I guess I’ll have to wait it out. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[smoothbore12]

I guess I’ll have to wait it out. Thanks for the suggestions.

Don't rush about it , with the cost of F1GTR you can buy 4 group C cars .
Accidentally i did this with the Escudo ,just try one race to see how it performs ( willow ,FM6 ) and won easily, so after that did and the rest two and clear that.

 

[DextroCat]

I did manage 1st at all three races in a tuned ‘95 F1 GTR (on easy difficulty) but it was a struggle. I tried in my tuned 99’ GTR GT500 and managed 1st at Fuji and the Red Bull Ring but I only got 2nd at Big Willow, so the F1 GTR was quicker but not exactly 10 million credits better. Probably would be best to wait for a better car.

 

[Avenger2000]

I did manage 1st at all three races in a tuned ‘95 F1 GTR (on easy difficulty) but it was a struggle. I tried in my tuned 99’ GTR GT500 and managed 1st at Fuji and the Red Bull Ring but I only got 2nd at Big Willow, so the F1 GTR was quicker but not exactly 10 million credits better. Probably would be best to wait for a better car.

Thank you for your insight on this.

 

[BobDx123]

I forgot to post this yesterday…

I ran through several qualifying cars for the Neo-Classical events at Willow, Red Bull & Fuji without any trouble. A couple combos probably best suited for easy and others likely fine for “normal” difficulty


Gr.B
-Audi Sport Quattro S1 Pikes Peak ‘87

Gr.3
-Toyota Supra GT500 ‘97
-Nissan Skyline Super Silhouette ‘84

Gr.4
-Alfa Romeo 155 2.5 TI '93

Road
-Nissan R32 GT-R V-spec II ‘94

Race
-McLaren MP4/4 ‘88
-Ferrari F40 ‘92
-Porsche 911 GT1 Strassenversion ‘97

Edit: I’m sure there’s plenty of the “non group” road and race cars that will work fine. Tuning to create power lower in the RPM band will help with acceleration while saving fuel to keep them single pit stop races.

 

[Avenger2000]

Can you place at least 3rd on easy with the Audi? I haven’t seen a high pp tune for it yet and no one never mentions it. I’m asking because I happen to own it.

 

[BobDx123]

Can you place at least 3rd on easy with the Audi? I haven’t seen a high pp tune for it yet and no one never mentions it. I’m asking because I happen to own it.

I got 1st position with all of them.

I used the Audi in Willow and Fuji winning by 36 seconds (with a 30 second crash) and lapped everyone in the next respectively

 

[Avenger2000]

I got 1st position with all of them.

I used the Audi in Willow and Fuji winning by 36 seconds (with a 30 second crash) and lapped everyone in the next respectively

View attachment 1258308
View attachment 1258309

Do you just upgrade everything to the max on the Audi? Do you happen to have a picture of your tuning screens for the car? If not, that’s okay.

 

[BobDx123]

Do you just upgrade everything to the max on the Audi? Do you happen to have a picture of your tuning screens for the car? If not, that’s okay.

Hey man, sorry didn’t have there time to elaborate before.

So even “Maxed Out” the the Audi’s pp rating tops out under 705, but on easy difficulty it doesn’t matter. I did snapshot the how the car was setup but don’t think it’s important as there’s nothing to balance to achieve the pp rating. I don’t think there’s much to buy except the turbo and tires, not sure if the ECU comes with it or not.

This below is just Praiano’s tune for 600pp with front/rear downforce maximized, a Med turbo and I believe old gearing I had on at some point beforehand (might be able to make 6th gear a higher top speed to save more fuel). This isn’t specifically tuned for any of these tracks but I used it for one race at both Willow and Fuji. Either way it’s fast enough to pass all the other cars without much effort.

-Unfortunately, I don’t remember off hand the balance of which fuel map and shift points I used to conserve fuel
-Pit for Fuel & Tires end of lap 5 for both races.
- The tires are going to be pretty rough on lap 5. Replace with RM’s for Willow, Fuji sometimes has rain so continue RM if it doesn’t but obviously IM or Wets depending on radar.

 

[Avenger2000]

Hey man, sorry didn’t have there time to elaborate before.

So even “Maxed Out” the the Audi’s pp rating tops out under 705, but on easy difficulty it doesn’t matter. I did snapshot the how the car was setup but don’t think it’s important as there’s nothing to balance to achieve the pp rating. I don’t think there’s much to buy except the turbo and tires, not sure if the ECU comes with it or not.

This below is just Praiano’s tune for 600pp with front/rear downforce maximized, a Med turbo and I believe old gearing I had on at some point beforehand (might be able to make 6th gear a higher top speed to save more fuel). This isn’t specifically tuned for any of these tracks but I used it for one race at both Willow and Fuji. Either way it’s fast enough to pass all the other cars without much effort.

-Unfortunately, I don’t remember off hand the balance of which fuel map and shift points I used to conserve fuel
-Pit for Fuel & Tires end of lap 5 for both races.
- The tires are going to be pretty rough on lap 5. Replace with RM’s for Willow, Fuji sometimes has rain so continue RM if it doesn’t but obviously IM or Wets depending on radar.



View attachment 1258329
View attachment 1258330

Thank you for the details. I’ll fiddle with the Audi car later. I’m doing the Super Formula races right now because I didn’t think I had a viable car for the Neo-Classical. The Super Formula is a pain. In general, I don’t like longer races where you may have to pit and also worry about the weather changing later in the race.

 

[Avenger2000]

Hey man, sorry didn’t have there time to elaborate before.

So even “Maxed Out” the the Audi’s pp rating tops out under 705, but on easy difficulty it doesn’t matter. I did snapshot the how the car was setup but don’t think it’s important as there’s nothing to balance to achieve the pp rating. I don’t think there’s much to buy except the turbo and tires, not sure if the ECU comes with it or not.

This below is just Praiano’s tune for 600pp with front/rear downforce maximized, a Med turbo and I believe old gearing I had on at some point beforehand (might be able to make 6th gear a higher top speed to save more fuel). This isn’t specifically tuned for any of these tracks but I used it for one race at both Willow and Fuji. Either way it’s fast enough to pass all the other cars without much effort.

-Unfortunately, I don’t remember off hand the balance of which fuel map and shift points I used to conserve fuel
-Pit for Fuel & Tires end of lap 5 for both races.
- The tires are going to be pretty rough on lap 5. Replace with RM’s for Willow, Fuji sometimes has rain so continue RM if it doesn’t but obviously IM or Wets depending on radar.



View attachment 1258329
View attachment 1258330

The issue I’m having with this car is that when I brake, I slide all over the place. From what I understand, it is inherent to this car that the back slides out from under you, but tunes like Priano’s and yours are supposed to mitigate it a bit. Any tips on slowing down to turn or do you need to drift the corners? Thanks.

 

[BobDx123]

The issue I’m having with this car is that when I brake, I slide all over the place. From what I understand, it is inherent to this car that the back slides out from under you, but tunes like Priano’s and yours are supposed to mitigate it a bit. Any tips on slowing down to turn or do you need to drift the corners? Thanks.

Hey,

Are you having particular trouble on one of the races or all of them?

Regarding the tune, like I mentioned before, it’s really just Praiano’s and I only used it in those two races, i’m sure there are some adjustments that could be made for when it’s got the Turbo and is more powerful. After reading this I took the car for a lap at Willow to try understand what you mean. It’s certainly not the best choice but capable of getting the job done.

I’m happy to give some general advice but if you let me know a certain track or provide more info on any additional issues you have can try to clear things up and help with more feedback.

It’s important to know that as each lap progresses and the tires become more worn you will lose more and more handling. As this happens you have to take each area a bit slower. This usually isn’t much of an issue but certain cars burn tires faster, especially with increased power. Willow is particularly nasty burning the tires on one side of the car. The harder you are on the tires accelerating (with slip), braking and turning (when your hear the tires screeching) make this happen faster.

* Try to brake when the car is going in a straight line, otherwise you not only risk losing control but prevent the car from turning properly; it will under steer more in a straight line

* Try to learn “trail braking” if possible, this allows you to brake a little later and hold more speed in a corner entrance. This is most important for turns that are close to right angles rather than large sweeping turns. The idea is that you braking slightly later and slowly releasing the brake as you turn in, getting completely off the pedal before the apex. After reaching the apex you slowly creep into the accelerator until the car straightens out and then give it power. EDIT: you DON’T need to trail brake with this car to win these events though. Just something important to learn IF you’re not already doing so

* Learn to use gears to help you turn; dropping gears will assist the car in turning in more; this can be helpful in tons of places including large sweeping turns when your car is veering away from the inside. Likewise, you can upshift to stop loosing traction if your tires begin to slip and with throttle will help prevent you from turning in too much.

* Use the throttle to help with turning. Every car behaves a bit differently here and varies with how the limited slip differential is setup. Generally the process of letting off the throttle will help you turn in and applying it does the opposite… when your turning in too much.

* Higher TCS (tractional control) in your HUD, slows the car a bit overall to help prevent slippage. Using 0 or a lower TCS with better throttle control is faster.

EDIT: @Avenger2000

* Regarding your brakes… Make sure you have ABS enabled in assist menu. You can also gently pump the brakes when it’s raining or your tires are in really bad shape

I just tried the Red Bull Neo-Classical with it and was able to use RS (Race Soft) tires. You might be able to try using those on one of the other races as well. Usually they burn up faster but you have more grip and topping ability, however, if the RS’s end much smoother on the turns than the RM’s maybe they will actually last longer . Weather wasn’t starting until lap 7 so I was able to switch to FM3 for lap 6 and pit after that for the Wet Tires.

 

[Avenger2000]

Hey,

Are you having particular trouble on one of the races or all of them?

Regarding the tune, like I mentioned before, it’s really just Praiano’s and I only used it in those two races, i’m sure there are some adjustments that could be made for when it’s got the Turbo and is more powerful. After reading this I took the car for a lap at Willow to try understand what you mean. It’s certainly not the best choice but capable of getting the job done.

I’m happy to give some general advice but if you let me know a certain track or provide more info on any additional issues you have can try to clear things up and help with more feedback.

It’s important to know that as each lap progresses and the tires become more worn you will lose more and more handling. As this happens you have to take each area a bit slower. This usually isn’t much of an issue but certain cars burn tires faster, especially with increased power. Willow is particularly nasty burning the tires on one side of the car. The harder you are on the tires accelerating (with slip), braking and turning (when your hear the tires screeching) make this happen faster.

* Try to brake when the car is going in a straight line, otherwise you not only risk losing control but prevent the car from turning properly; it will under steer more in a straight line

* Try to learn “trail braking” if possible, this allows you to brake a little later and hold more speed in a corner entrance. This is most important for turns that are close to right angles rather than large sweeping turns. The idea is that you braking slightly later and slowly releasing the brake as you turn in, getting completely off the pedal before the apex. After reaching the apex you slowly creep into the accelerator until the car straightens out and then give it power. EDIT: you DON’T need to trail brake with this car to win these events though. Just something important to learn IF you’re not already doing so

* Learn to use gears to help you turn; dropping gears will assist the car in turning in more; this can be helpful in tons of places including large sweeping turns when your car is veering away from the inside. Likewise, you can upshift to stop loosing traction if your tires begin to slip and with throttle will help prevent you from turning in too much.

* Use the throttle to help with turning. Every car behaves a bit differently here and varies with how the limited slip differential is setup. Generally the process of letting off the throttle will help you turn in and applying it does the opposite… when your turning in too much.

* Higher TCS (tractional control) in your HUD, slows the car a bit overall to help prevent slippage. Using 0 or a lower TCS with better throttle control is faster.

EDIT: @Avenger2000

* Regarding your brakes… Make sure you have ABS enabled in assist menu. You can also gently pump the brakes when it’s raining or your tires are in really bad shape

I just tried the Red Bull Neo-Classical with it and was able to use RS (Race Soft) tires. You might be able to try using those on one of the other races as well. Usually they burn up faster but you have more grip and topping ability, however, if the RS’s end much smoother on the turns than the RM’s maybe they will actually last longer . Weather wasn’t starting until lap 7 so I was able to switch to FM3 for lap 6 and pit after that for the Wet Tires.

View attachment 1258790

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I really appreciate it.

 

[BobDx123]

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I really appreciate it.

Absolutely man,

I’ve received (and still do) a lot of really helpful information from members on here and many have gone out of their way to answer my questions and explain things. In kind, when possible, I try to participate in doing the same for others similar so the cycle continues… like the notion take a penny, leave a penny

Anyway, If you do end up with any specific issues or trouble with the tracks, feel free to bring them up, no problem to help troubleshoot what’s going on.

Good luck

 

[Tommy_D]

I recommend the 787b for all 3 races. For Fuji and RBR, I recommend a balanced power to downforce ratio. For Willow, I recommend less power and way more downforce. Also adjust your transmission so you can hit 190mph on right-hander leading up to the main straight.

 

[Avenger2000]

I forgot to post this yesterday…

I ran through several qualifying cars for the Neo-Classical events at Willow, Red Bull & Fuji without any trouble. A couple combos probably best suited for easy and others likely fine for “normal” difficulty


Gr.B
-Audi Sport Quattro S1 Pikes Peak ‘87

Gr.3
-Toyota Supra GT500 ‘97
-Nissan Skyline Super Silhouette ‘84

Gr.4
-Alfa Romeo 155 2.5 TI '93

Road
-Nissan R32 GT-R V-spec II ‘94

Race
-McLaren MP4/4 ‘88
-Ferrari F40 ‘92
-Porsche 911 GT1 Strassenversion ‘97

Edit: I’m sure there’s plenty of the “non group” road and race cars that will work fine. Tuning to create power lower in the RPM band will help with acceleration while saving fuel to keep them single pit stop races.

Can you still detune the McLaren MP4/4 ‘88 to less than 800pp? I have to increase my collector’s level to 50 to get the new features and also have one more Neo-Classical race to run(Fuji). Can I kill two birds with one stone? I just ran the Willow Springs with a Nissan GT-R GT500. I’m wondering if the McLaren would be fun to try.

 

[Tommy_D]

If you have a 787b, Fuji is an easy race even on hard difficulty.

 

[Avenger2000]

If you have a 787b, Fuji is an easy race even on hard difficulty.

Yeah just have the Nissan gt-r gt500 that I was able to win Willows with. I had no success with the Audi Quattro pike’s peak The mclaren and I guess the Nissan Silhouette is available now in the Legends dealership. I’m assuming the Silhouette is similar to the gt500 (not sure but they are in the same class and I don’t hear a lot of people using it). But the McLaren is a different beast so I thought I’d ask.

 

[Avenger2000]

Also, if anyone has any tips for Fuji, I’d appreciate it. That track kills me near the end with the 90 degree right-turn and the sharp turns back up to the starting line. I know you can hope for rain and that the AI drivers get confused but I am wondering if you can beat it dry.

 

[Tommy_D]

Also, if anyone has any tips for Fuji, I’d appreciate it. That track kills me near the end with the 90 degree right-turn and the sharp turns back up to the starting line. I know you can hope for rain and that the AI drivers get confused but I am wondering if you can beat it dry.

This is a Gr.2 car but its all very similar if its Gr.3 or Gr.1 cars. You need to drop to 1st gear to get the rotation around these tight turns.

Edit: Just practice this specific mission over and over again. Its hard enough to need to do over and over and over again so you will begin to get good at taking these turns. I never much cared for Fuji, but after finally getting this gold run, I actually really like the Fuji track.

 

[Avenger2000]

This is a Gr.2 car but its all very similar if its Gr.3 or Gr.1 cars. You need to drop to 1st gear to get the rotation around these tight turns.

Edit: Just practice this specific mission over and over again. Its hard enough to need to do over and over and over again so you will begin to get good at taking these turns. I never much cared for Fuji, but after finally getting this gold run, I actually really like the Fuji track.

Thank you. I wish I had the Mazda. Do you think the McLaren MP4/4 or the Nissan Skyline Silhouette would handle this race better than the Nissan GTR GT500? I need to spend some money to raise my collectors level anyway and these two cars just appeared. So I thought maybe I would try them.

 

[BobDx123]

Can you still detune the McLaren MP4/4 ‘88 to less than 800pp? I have to increase my collector’s level to 50 to get the new features and also have one more Neo-Classical race to run(Fuji). Can I kill two birds with one stone? I just ran the Willow Springs with a Nissan GT-R GT500. I’m wondering if the McLaren would be fun to try.

The MP4/4 can still get down to 800pp. It’s a mixed bag in some others’ opinions in terms of usefulness; I own it and enjoy driving it though. It’s a lot to shell out early in the game but if you play a lot and grind credits not too big of a deal.

On “easy” was able to take 1st position at Fuji by early 2nd lap so shouldn’t matter if it stays dry or rains. On fuel map 1 it will last a good 5 laps with probably a little left over

It’s not as special as the classical Gr.1 cars at 800pp though and they are 2-3 million. I think it shines better at a higher level but still pretty good. The classic gr.1’s were around in middle of april so likely will be a bit before they are back.

BTW, another less expensive option is to try Nitrous on whatever car you’re doing best with at the moment, its not prohibited in the Neo-Classical races and costs ~100,000 credits. If you haven’t used it yet, it might give the edge you’re looking for.

 

[Tommy_D]

The MP4/4 can still get down to 800pp. It’s a mixed bag in some others’ opinions in terms of usefulness; I own it and enjoy driving it though. It’s a lot to shell out early in the game but if you play a lot and grind credits not too big of a deal.

On “easy” was able to take 1st position at Fuji by early 2nd lap so shouldn’t matter if it stays dry or rains. On fuel map 1 it will last a good 5 laps with probably a little left over

It’s not as special as the classical Gr.1 cars at 800pp though and they are 2-3 million. I think it shines better at a higher level but still pretty good. The classic gr.1’s were around in middle of april so likely will be a bit before they are back.

BTW, another less expensive option is to try Nitrous on whatever car you’re doing best with at the moment, its not prohibited in the Neo-Classical races and costs ~100,000 credits. If you haven’t used it yet, it might give the edge you’re looking for.

Wait, you can use N2O on these races? HA! I never even thought of it. And it doesnt increase the PP of any car.

 

[Avenger2000]

The MP4/4 can still get down to 800pp. It’s a mixed bag in some others’ opinions in terms of usefulness; I own it and enjoy driving it though. It’s a lot to shell out early in the game but if you play a lot and grind credits not too big of a deal.

On “easy” was able to take 1st position at Fuji by early 2nd lap so shouldn’t matter if it stays dry or rains. On fuel map 1 it will last a good 5 laps with probably a little left over

It’s not as special as the classical Gr.1 cars at 800pp though and they are 2-3 million. I think it shines better at a higher level but still pretty good. The classic gr.1’s were around in middle of april so likely will be a bit before they are back.

BTW, another less expensive option is to try Nitrous on whatever car you’re doing best with at the moment, its not prohibited in the Neo-Classical races and costs ~100,000 credits. If you haven’t used it yet, it might give the edge you’re looking for.

I had to improvise since most of the 800pp tuning guides are out of date didn’t work correctly on the McLaren mo4/4 in the current game version. So I had to reduce power and the like. Still being not used to the car and driving sloppily, I came in 2nd on easy on Fuji on my first attempt.

 

[BobDx123]

I had to improvise since most of the 800pp tuning guides are out of date didn’t work correctly on the McLaren mo4/4 in the current game version. So I had to reduce power and the like. Still being not used to the car and driving sloppily, I came in 2nd on easy on Fuji on my first attempt.

Nice man! Glad you finished the menu book. Yeah the MP4/4 tunes are certainly dated (it will be better with good suspension) and yeah it’s a very different drive from most things. You did what is basically the only option to reach 800p, have to heavily reduce the power output and tons of ballast.