Pantomime photography - help!

[Roo]

I considered taking this to the Ask GTP section, but felt I'd get more of a specialist response here.

I've been asked to be a photographer at a local pantomime. I've never done indoor photography of this type before, so I'm looking for some advice; thus far, almost all my photography has been outdoors at car events. My chief concern is making the best of the light - obviously dark in the audience, light on stage - but if possible I'd rather avoid using the flash during the performance.

I've got a tripod, a Nikon D40, the 18-55mm lens the D40 came with, an old 70-210mm lens, and one of those little remote shutter control jobbies to play with. The D40 won't speak to the 70-210mm unless the aperture is locked at minimum (the largest f-number).

There's a stage rehersal on Sunday and the first performance (of 4) the following Thursday, so I've got a little time to practice.

Anyone have any experience of stage photography, or any ideas for a relative noob?

 

[F1GTR]

ISO1600, aperture as wide as it can go (though you *can* get away with f/4), Spot metering, aperture priority (or manual mode if you can't be bothered holding the AE lock button all the time). Expose for the highlights, just place the metering spot over a face/something bright, lock the exposure, then focus+compose and take the shot. Using auto ISO also helps as sometimes 1600 isn't needed all the time. I've never needed a tripod as it just slows me down during an event, though it'll be useful for some long exposure stuff.

Some example photos, used a D80 (your D40 handles noise better) and a Sigma 18-50 f/2.8:

Also it depends on how close you can get to the stage, these were about 5m away.

 

[Syntax error]

I've done a few concerts and events and I pretty much stick with a similar format to what F1 explained.

Forget the flash, waste of time and if it does manage to light your subject, it's never going to do a pretty job. High ISO is going to be the only way to get a good shot. Try and get your hands on some noise removing software like noise ninja, (although Lightroom does an okay job at this as well but with out the flexibility of noise ninja).

I tend to just stick with aperture priority but if I see my shutter speed is up enough I'll lower the ISO on the fly where ever possible. And naturally the widest aperture setting you have. I don't have any experience with Nikons so I can't comment on the quality of high ISO shots but I think you should be okay.