Polarfox's Phototutorial! Photo editing, Panorama and HDR!

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Pola3F0x
Hi GTPlanet.
I sometimes get the question "Can you make a tutorial on how to do a good GT6 photo?" And most of the time, i have said no. But i thought, why the heck not, i'll try.

As a real life photographer, i usually do realistic photos, and some might fall under tha catagory "artistic" but thats not why im going for.

I'll show you what i mean.


Abused supra
by EL.Media

Its a real shot, with a surreal touch.
It's also one of my favorite shots.

Now, the good thing with GT6, is that i can go ANYWHERE on the track, to get the shot i want.
Right in front of the car, right over over it, i can move around. And the best part, i have multiple tries on each shot. Longer exposure time, shorter, brighter, darker. You name it. Thats something i dont have in real life, so i use a lot if time, just to set up the camera, wait for the sun to be where i want it. And ofcourse, the car. Its not a cool shot if a driftcar is going timeatteck style around the corner.

Now to GT6, i work by a "4 step list"



    • Imagination
    • The composition.
    • The photo technical.
    • The editing.
I will take you thru each step.

Imagination:
See the picture in your head, what car, colors, setting. See the finished photo in your head.

The composition:
Now, that you have seen you shot in your head. Lets get to work. Grab you car, go to the track, and go into track settings. Set the time of day (If possible) and weather (also if possible)
Go onto the track, and drive. Do one lap to see if the light is correct. Then start the real work. Drive at a slower pace than you would in a race. This is because you dont want to go outside of the driving line. Not the racing line. But the driving line you need for your shot. When done, go to the replay, and do next step

The phot technical:
Now, here i see some bad work among the starters, but thats ok, you will learn.
Play around with camera angles, focal lengths and all that.

I have decided to toss in a example.


Tutorial example, unedited

Dont remember the setting, but i belive it was F11.0, 1/100sec.

Now, as you can see, this is a panorama shot. But dont worry, i will get back to that later.

Thats the raw shot (after stitching), its really dull, flat picture.
Thats what we're going to use in the next step.

The editing:
For editing, i prefer to use Lightroom. It gives me the ability to work fast and easy on every picture.
The same goes for Photoshop Camera Raw. Altho, i havent found a way to use camera raw on .jpg files yet. So ill go trough some of the basics here.

First, Open the picture in Lightroom.


You can see all the bars on the right is at 0. Now if this was a RAW file (from a camera) it would say some difrent things, like it would have whitebalance instead of temprature. etc

Depending on what you want, go ahead and adjust some bars. I normally start with Temprature, and since i want this picture to be a bit warm, il drag the temp bar right.



Now, it wont do much diffrence since i only went for +14, but i felt that was enough

Next, the pic is bright enough to skip the exposure tab, so i went for the contrast.



That makes a little more diffrence. Next, adjusting Highlighs, Shadows, Whites and Blacks.

You can see that the front of the car is REALLY bright, so adjust down the Highlights.



Next, the dark parts of the car got really dark. so we'll adjust them a bit up with the Shadows



Much better, Next adjust down the Whites a bit, and the Blacks a little bit up, like so


and


The reason i pushed the Shadows and Blacks up, is because i wanted sort of a HDR look to the picture.

One of the things that makes the biggest diffrence, is the Clarity. This one sort of outlines all the contrast.



Make it a little more colorful with Vibrance and Saturation like next two pics.




Almost done! Just something to make the tiers look black.


Just one more, Highlight Priority.



All done!
Lets see how it is.


Compared to the original, now you can see how much diffrence it made.


After this, i sent it to Photoshop for a frame, and logo.



Hope this helps some people to get started.
And yes, im well aware i have some/alot of mistypes, but most of you will be able to understand what im saying.

Polarfox
 
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Panoramas!
You have all seen them, extremely "oversized" pictures, with some amazing scenery, colors etc.


There is no big deal acually, its just a method of doing it.

Start, as in the first part, by imagining your finished product.
Then go on track, only this time, you will need some more "room", look around, is there any bir barrels, houses etc that will come in the way of the shot?

Then, do some test shots. In my panoramas, i use shorter shutterspeed, than i would usually do, mainly to get more Controll Points.
Then, hven you are happy with the lightning and so. Use the AEL (Auto Exposure Lock) so that the game wont change the brightness of the picture. Also, choose a aperture that wont cause any "black spots" on the corners of the picture. I usually set the aperture to around F.11 to F.16.

Now, start taking you pictures, and save each of them. Look longer to either side (doesent matter what way), and make sure you keep around 20% overlap between each picture.

Do this desired amount of times, and you will end up with sth like theese pics.







Now, open your desired stitching program. I prefer to use Hugin. As its easy, and i can add ALOT of controll points.

Now, so that i dont have to write too much, i have drawn circles on the pictures, so that you can see where to click, as Hugin (well atleast to me) is a confusing program.














(I usually do this step twice to get most control points)


Everytime you click "Create Control Points" you will see this window popping up.
It will close automaticly, and leave a message on how may CPs it found.






It wont always end up like a tornado, but sometimes it does.
But dont worry, Hugin has you covered :)




3. I usually drag these bars all the waoy out, so that i can examine the cropping later.




1. Set size of the WHOLE picture (Including the black aerias around picture)
2. Select file format of finished picture

After this, open the "Hugin Sticher" which is located in "Program Files\Hugin\bin"
Select your .pto file, and click open. Hugin will close when finished, and you will have a stunning picture laying waiting for you ;)

After you have made a panorama "base" you can toss it into Lightroom / Photoshop / Gimp (whatever) and do some more magic

Hope this clears some stuff.

Polarfox
 
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So, its time for the last planned tutorial here: HDR.

First, lets start with the boring stuff, whats is a HDR picture? Well, HDR stands for:
High Dynamic Range, And it contais more data than a normal picture. It basicly is 2 or more pictures, at different aperutres. Most common is it to have at each side of the "natural" aperture (+0ex)
For example -2 and +2, Then mergin theese 2, so that you get the higlights form the darker picture, and the shadows of the brighter picture, creating a somewhat surreal look, as it, i dont know how to explain it, since you get all the data in a picture.

I will first show you a real life picture i took when visiting LA.


New year ever @ Burbank


As you can imagen, the dark spots will be very dark in real, and the light spots, is very bright.
But the mergin of 3 pictures of diffrent shutterspeeds (1/2sec, 4sec and 10sec), i created that.

Now, to GT6.
If you read the 2 other tutorials, you know the drill. Imagen the shot, set the track and drive. This is the same as always, but now comes the diffrence.

Look at the highlights (i.e headlights) and move down the aperture, so far thet the entire headlight is visible. take the shot, and move onwards, Take another, but this time at a so high aperture that all the shadows (i.e radiator, tiers and such) is all clear and bight enough to see details. Take the shot. Move the aperture between theese to pictures, and shoot, maybe 2-3 more, but decide how much aperture spacing you want (i.e: Aperture specing 1 = ex-1, ex+0 ,ex+1, ex+2 and on), and stick to this.

When done with all the shots, import to computer, and lets start the "magicshop". I like to use Photomatix, as it has VERY much adjusting possibilities. Ofc, Photoshop has some HDR tool, but i think that Photomatix is better.

Open Photomatix, and do as the pictures show.






(As you can see, i have 2 shots at ex+2 But that doesent matter.)



























Right from Photomatix


And after some adjusting in Photoshop.


Hope some of you learned something new of this.
Belive ill make a very "in debth tutorial", Of making a HDR Panorama. But that will come later.
(Please dont mock me for my english :P)

Enjoy

Polarfox
 
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Great tutorial Polarox 👍

I use Lightroom in a diferent way (steps order) but the final result is very similar. I usually use some Detail -> Noise reduction to hide some color banding for example.


Amazing supra shot! :drool:
 
As there is no ISO is Gran Turismo, i very rarley need the Noise reduction, But sometimes. :)

Thanks, as i said, one of my fav shot all 2013 :)
 
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Nice tutorial Emil bravo 👍 You make me think that I've got Lightroom on my pc but I've never tried to use it.

I'm mostly using Photomerge and Altostorm Panorama Corrector, sometimes Kolor autopano giga and Hugin

I really hope that many new photomoders will to make some real panoramas.
 
This was a very helpful tutorial! Even though I'm using paint.NET and Gimp, most of the processes you went through in each tutorial is still possible with a little bit of work. Cheers!
 
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This was a very helpful tutorial! Even though I'm using paint.NET and Gimp, most of the processes you went through in each tutorial is still possible with a little bit of work. Cheers!

Thanks!
I will do a "advanced" tutorial after may 17th sometime. Atm im in the middle of a norwegian tradition "Russefeiring"
Long story short, from mid april untill may 17th (norways national day) where the highschool seniors wear a "uniform" (red, blue or black pants), go to insanley big partys, getting drunk and have a great time :)
So cya all sometima after may 17th :P
 
@Polarfox - thank you for your tutorial. Here is my big pano using Hugin software.
Real photo is is 4501 x 1008 but this one here is 1200 x 269.
pano 2.png
 
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