Possible to improve/mod DFGT sequential shifter?

  • Thread starter Wozza123
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Wozza123
Hi,
I need some advice from you tech experts. ;)

I would like to mod the sequential shifter on my Logitech GT wheel. In other words actually remove it from the casing and mount it elsewhere using a different joystick. One of these in actual fact. It's a spare I have from an old MAME build (if you know what that is).

My idea is to extend the wires from the current joystick to the new one and position it in a new mounting.

So my question is: does anyone know how much difference there is between the connectors on the Logi joystick and the new one? Would they be compatible? The new one uses standard three-pin microswitches. I haven't taken apart the wheel yet so don't know what type the Logi has.

Also, I use a wheelstandpro so the mounting would have to somehow be an extension of the top plate the wheel is secured to. I actually own the extension meant for the G25 gearstick, because when I bought the WSP they sent me the G25 model by mistake. :sly: I was thinking of trying to extend that.

I've been fiddling about with sheets of MDF etc trying to figure out how I would actually construct the thing.

I would be very grateful for any suggestions you might have.
 
i just copped mine off and mounted it to my racing chair and extended the handle

wheel is hard mounted now also i am not using the diy screen mount anymore Fiat Abarth Hgt genuine pedal covers and abs lock up thing i only used bunge coard to keep pedal up whilst working on it

hope u can see what i mean

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Good work. :)

What kind of connectors are on the bottom of the stick and how many are there?

Also, I just noticed on mine that the power connector is on the same section as the stick. How have you managed that?

Thanks.
 
i will take few more pics as its easier to explain

Tools i used was screwdriver dremal type tool with cutting disc tape and a soldernig iorn gun (not for soldering)

Firstly i opened up the dfgt wheel removed clamps and drilled out the mounting holes that were allready there but not drilled by logitech ?

When the case is open you will notice that the gear stick has it own pcb board with just 2 wires connection to the wheel ,i cut this wire in half used and used a old ps2 pad for extra wire spliced the wire & taped it ,then run that wire through the wheel until it reached the left side clamp hole and wire exits under wheel down to the rigs upright bar. But on the gear stick part now you should havd the wire cut in half also the power supply block and also pedal block connection is on the gear stick housing , pop thease out and tuck them over wheel side for now. now on stick side it should only have gear stick pcb , get your dremal and cut the case down the profile crease look at overside to see what i mean (non gear stickend) after that you should have 2 halfs of the case seprate now just mount it how and where you want just splice 2 wires in and your done. now with power supply and pedal wire just burn a hole with soldering iorn (makes a clean round hole) left hand side of case route wire through and your done same with pedal connection really but you need to make a whole shape with a iorn for connection and 2 screws.

Dont get me wrong if i had right tools i wouldnt have used a solding iorn but a drill but oly had a cutting disc with dremal lol and soldering iorn worked fantastic nice clean holes and fast ( but wear a mask as burning plastic is highly toxic ) if you go and do it my botch way

i hid the holes with microwave meal packet works well nobody has noticed it

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Thanks for the pics but I'm thinking your way is a little drastic. How long did it take you?

My current idea is a bit simpler. I'm thinking of opening the case, locating the wires to the stick, disconnecting them and extending them through a new hole in the case that I will make. These will then be connected to the new joystick that will be mounted somewhere on my wheelstand or chair. I'll then just close up the case again. That way I don't have to relocate the power cable etc.

That will allow me to even connect the O button to the old shifter so it can be mapped as a handbrake for the few times I want to use it. I saw a mod for this somewhere the other day.

I'm still trying to get the courage up however and I think I might have to wait until I can get a better wheelstand because mounting the stick somewhere is gonna be a problem. :nervous:

Was looking at this one yesterday.
 
Thanks for the pics but I'm thinking your way is a little drastic. How long did it take you?

My current idea is a bit simpler. I'm thinking of opening the case, locating the wires to the stick, disconnecting them and extending them through a new hole in the case that I will make. These will then be connected to the new joystick that will be mounted somewhere on my wheelstand or chair. I'll then just close up the case again. That way I don't have to relocate the power cable etc.

That will allow me to even connect the O button to the old shifter so it can be mapped as a handbrake for the few times I want to use it. I saw a mod for this somewhere the other day.

I'm still trying to get the courage up however and I think I might have to wait until I can get a better wheelstand because mounting the stick somewhere is gonna be a problem. :nervous:

Was looking at this one yesterday.

Yes it is a bit drastic but iam getting a thrustmaster at some point so thought i have a bash at modding my wheel see how far i can take it have a lod yet to install including my diy handbrake it still has about 4 months warrenty left lol

It took about an hour to mod the wheel very basic stuff i can rip my rig apart and take some inside pics if you need but may take a day or so as iam decorating at the moement. very easy but if u have not got somthing to mount it to best not do this just yet :D

What's this picture about?

Thanks

basically a diy version of the Frex pedal vibration motor , but my version works no matter what platform game pc/ps3/xbox etc gameboy if you wish as there is no software to deal with most of the working are inside the pedal housing when wheels lock you get a vibration , that alerts you to adjust pressure and lift off the brake slightly makes more sense than just using sound to judge was thought :D

Many more things to install just have not got time Notice i have 4 pedals now?
 
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The trouble with this is you are still stuck with the same action as the stock shifter which is, plasticky and feels like a toy.

The better thing to do is to wire in a decent shifter. What I did was splice a connector block into the wires that go to the stock shifter inside the wheel. Into the connector block I wired the female end of a stereo jack extension lead, the male end then connects the new shifter to the wheel (and the stock shifter remains useable if required) the wheel looks unchanged apart from an extra wire exiting the casing. For the shifter I used a steptronic shifter from a bmw car, which gives a very realistic feel as it is a real shifter....

I will upload some detailed pics tomorrow
 
The trouble with this is you are still stuck with the same action as the stock shifter which is, plasticky and feels like a toy.

The better thing to do is to wire in a decent shifter. What I did was splice a connector block into the wires that go to the stock shifter inside the wheel. Into the connector block I wired the female end of a stereo jack extension lead, the male end then connects the new shifter to the wheel (and the stock shifter remains useable if required) the wheel looks unchanged apart from an extra wire exiting the casing. For the shifter I used a steptronic shifter from a bmw car, which gives a very realistic feel as it is a real shifter....

I will upload some detailed pics tomorrow

nah it aint too bad with stiffer springs and a longer throw 👍
 
My current idea is a bit simpler. I'm thinking of opening the case, locating the wires to the stick, disconnecting them and extending them through a new hole in the case that I will make. These will then be connected to the new joystick that will be mounted somewhere on my wheelstand or chair. I'll then just close up the case again. That way I don't have to relocate the power cable etc.

That will allow me to even connect the O button to the old shifter so it can be mapped as a handbrake for the few times I want to use it. I saw a mod for this somewhere the other day.

I've not looked inside the DFGT yet but I imagine it's very similar to the DFP in many ways. If it is, you're in luck... The (stick) shifter has it's own little circuit board connected to the main board by three wires, one is common to both up and down shift (but don't confuse it with a common ground, it may be a ground but none of the other buttons' connections are so I wouldn't assume so) then each direction has it's own wire. All you need to do is unplug this wire, pull the plastic shroud off the connector on the main board (just pull it directly up from the board with pliers), then wire your own switches to a three pin female header and plug it into the board. That way the mod is easily reversible should you want to sell the wheel.

As for the switch types, in the DFP (and more than likely in the DFGT) they're SPST tactile switches, meaning they're simple push-to-make buttons which click when they're activated. If you have three pin microswitches, which are common in arcade joysticks, you just have to connect the common wire to the pin marked 'C' on both switches and then the individual wires to the one marked 'NO'. 'C' means common, 'NO' means normally open, so the connection between the two wires will be normally open (no connection) until the switch is pressed.

The handbrake mod... I'll leave that to someone who knows the differences between the DFP and DFGT to explain, I could explain how to basically copy the circuit board in the wheel outside of the wheel so you could have a button box or something, but for all I know the DFGT could be completely different due to the extra RA menu controls and PS button!

PM me if you want to ask me anything because I might forget to check this thread again, hope that helps!
 
basically a diy version of the Frex pedal vibration motor , but my version works no matter what platform game pc/ps3/xbox etc gameboy if you wish as there is no software to deal with most of the working are inside the pedal housing when wheels lock you get a vibration , that alerts you to adjust pressure and lift off the brake slightly makes more sense than just using sound to judge was thought :D

Many more things to install just have not got time Notice i have 4 pedals now?

Yeah I noticed the 4 pedals and was going to inquire.
 
As promised here are pics of my modification:

Shows 6.4mm jack female socket exiting the DFGT casing (part of an stereo jack extension cable):
P4UNn.jpg



Shows the circuit board and switches etc of the stock shifter:
n0IYV.jpg



Shows, stereo extension cable spliced into the 3 wires (signal gear up, signal gear down and ground, sorry I cant remember which was which, trace the circuit board and you will be able to work it out) using a simple screw type connector block:
MS0Ox.jpg



Modified BMW E39 steptronic shifter (contains two microswitches, wired to the male end of the extension lead)
BXTd5.jpg



Another view of the shifter:
HakCu.jpg



(Old) video of shifter and wheel connected and in use:


Hope this helps and may provide a bit of inspiration
 
Same result just i used the stock parts and you used car parts i do admit rather your way but mine was atleast free both have there own merits , great work hope u painted ya rig by now :D
 

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