Power understeer - help me eradicate it

[pressure]

What up yall. I did some searching and found some good info but more sharing settings than talking about specifics or theory. So I thought I'd make a new topic inspired by my ITR. What, exactly, either lessens or magnifies power-on understeer? The car is near perfect off-to-low throttle but plows sickeningly with anyy agressive go pedalage. I've experimented quite a bit and had little luck addressing this. I do agree that there is a useful limit of power in a FF car, but there has to be some way to make the car do something OTHER than go straight at more than half throttle, regardless of steering angle. Anyone had any luck with this problem?
It's frustrating, man, I have no problem tuning most FR and AWDs but I have not been able to get around this. Perhaps the only answer is to put a smaller turbo on the car. You can post your whole settings if you want, and ask if you want mine, but I'd rather try to fix this specific problem than to switch to someone else's tuning model.

 

[Famine]

TCS off. ASM off. LSD set to 5s all round. Rear toe to -2.0.

 

[Shen Yin]

Yeah, I have similar problems with 4WD cars, i.e. the R34 Skyline. Will these settings that you've suggested help? They seem good so far, but is there more that I can adjust as well? Thanks!!

 

[Frmr97GXE]

low stabs in front and maxed in the rear help a lot. so does substantial front negative toe coupled with lots of camber. of course tweaking stabilizers doesn't cause atrocious tire wear like playing with tire angles does.

 

[Duke]

You want positive toe in front, not negative.

For FWD cars I usually set zero toe in front, 3.0 degrees camber. Rear I set to zero camber, and start with -0.5 degrees toe (out). Also, set your rear stabilizer bar a notch or two stiffer than the front.

 

[Frmr97GXE]

Originally posted by neon_duke
For FWD cars I usually set zero toe in front, 3.0 degrees camber. Rear I set to zero camber, and start with -0.5 degrees toe (out). Also, set your rear stabilizer bar a notch or two stiffer than the front.

I disagree. Having negative toe in front helps a car to turn in better. Having negative toe in the rear makes the car snappy. In my experience with the game most cars benefit from having -.5/0 or -1.0/0. Extreme cases, like the Zonda require -1.5/.5 with the rear positive toe stabilizing the ass.

 

[Duke]

Well, in real life and in the game I have had many people tell me that toe out in front makes cars turn in better, but I don't find that to be the case. To me, it just makes them twitchy.

But regardless of that, he's talking about power understeer, which means he's talking about the second phase of the turn when you're unwinding the steering lock and negative toe (out) in front is really working against you.

On some oversteery cars I have run positive toe at the rear for stbility, you are correct.

 

[Uncle Harry]

Does anybody know if the game physics engine changes the suspension geometry due to connering forces as per real life?
Nobody has mentioned using softer front spring settings and harder rear spring settings to try to reduce the weight transfer to the rear of the car under acceleration and thus improving front grip.

 

[Duke]

Yes, spring rates and damper settings definitely are modelled that way in the game. Normally I generically recommend stiffening the end with too much grip and softening the other end a little, but in my post above I was specifically replying to the comment on toe.

Besides, in the game at least, toe is the quickest and easiest way to give a less-knowledgeable person a tuning tool that is highly effective, if not exactly subtle.