ProSim handbrake on Fanatec CSL Elite base

[Mixolydian]

Hi,

I want to connect my ProSim handbrake to my CSL Elite base. I've searched on the net for all the pin layouts and I've tried every combination from potentiometer til RJ12 connector, but nothing seems to work analog. I did manage to get it to work as a digital handbrake. When I pull the lever for ~30%, the input will be registered instantly from 0 til 100. I saw a picture of an original potentiometer from the Fanatec handbrake and it shows: 10KB 38°. My potentiometer shows: B10K, so that should be no problem I guess.

Does anyone have a clue why I can't get it to work analog?
TIA

 

[Mixolydian]

Works like a charm now!

 

[FrankieStail]

Works like a charm now!

Care to share what you did to get it working?

I don’t have this wheel or handbrake but it would be of use to many others

 

[Mixolydian]

Care to share what you did to get it working?

I don’t have this wheel or handbrake but it would be of use to many others

Sure, no problem.

I bought another potentiometer and after soldering the cables it immediately worked. The range it worked in was only 38°. (now we know why the original potentiometer is saying: 10KB 38°)
So I had a lot of spare space I could use with the handbrake. After altering the saturation in-game, I could use the whole area of my handbrake.
But.....
The next time it didn't work analog anymore. Here comes the issue: when you close the potentiometer and slowly start turning it, it will not immediately register anything in the base. It's not much, but it is there. So, if you turn fast it will register as an on / off switch.
You get 100% input at once. If you turn back slowly, it will go down linear from 100 til 0. When you are at 0, turn back a little bit more and I really mean a little little little bit more. Don't turn until the potentiometer closes. When you have done that, the base base will detect your input as intended.
At that point I knew it worked.

To save me from a lot of trouble (building in the new potentiometer), I again tested my previous potentiometer and that one also worked now.
The reason it didn't work the days before was my mistake by continually changing the wires while the base was on power.
For every change you need to turn off the base. It somehow freezes your configuration.

I also discovered that the base doesn't care about the degrees of the potentiometer. After the second startup of the base, I could turn back the saturation to 100.

That's all.

 

[PJTierney]

The next time it didn't work analog anymore. Here comes the issue: when you close the potentiometer and slowly start turning it, it will not immediately register anything in the base. It's not much, but it is there. So, if you turn fast it will register as an on / off switch.
You get 100% input at once. If you turn back slowly, it will go down linear from 100 til 0. When you are at 0, turn back a little bit more and I really mean a little little little bit more. Don't turn until the potentiometer closes. When you have done that, the base base will detect your input as intended.

That’s apparently an intentional thing with Fanatec handbrakes too, I have to do the “registration pull” every time I start a game session.

 

[Mixolydian]

That’s apparently an intentional thing with Fanatec handbrakes too, I have to do the “registration pull” every time I start a game session.

Ah, good to know. Thanks for your reply.

 

[Jam316]

Hi I'm trying to wire up a DIY handbrake but on my controller panel it shows up as csl pedals and it works but won't work on the handbrake controller panel.plz help

 

[Jam316]

I

Hi I'm trying to wire up a DIY handbrake but on my controller panel it shows up as csl pedals and it works but won't work on the handbrake controller panel.plz hel