PS4 Patch 1.12 ProblemPS4 

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TT92

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I am having a huge problem with Patch 1.12.


I use Fanatec Club Sport pedals and they are great because they use a load cell instead of a potentiometer.


A quick recap on how they work. A potentiometer simply works on position from 0-100% and they are restricted physically to 100% maximum. Whereas a load Cell relies on pressure, the more pressure applied the higher the output voltage and it is only restricted by the maximum force that can be applied to it.


Now with all other games I can set my max pressure I want to use to the calibration graphs they use for the brake pressure by simply adjusting a knob on my pedal. Easy, works great.


Now here is the thing with AC. It auto calibrates. If I use a certain amount of pressure say 20kg, at the start it will auto calibrate that as 100% and max braking. Now what happens if I go to somewhere like Monza and the almost dead stop at the first chicane and I get involved in a battle for position? On the next stop I try and out brake my opponent and I say use 22Kg of brake force? AC now self-calibrates that as 100%. So next lap I now have to use 22kg of brake force to stop at 100% so what happens if I now use say 23Kg, the same happens again 23Kg is now the new 100%.

Now lets assume update 1.12 sees the above scenario and sets max pressure input to a Kg higher again. Even though the new max pressure is 23kg AC now wants to see 24Kg as the new max?

So to cut to the chase, I ran out of brakes by lap 7 of a 10 lap race. It got to a stage where I physically could not press the brake any harder. I was almost breaking my seat standing on the brake pedal and it was only going to about 50% on the bar graph.


What seems to be happening is that whatever parameters were there to stop this from happening have now been removed i.e a + or – margin for error.


Now I have played this game since day one release and it has not been like this before 1.12. Has anyone else struck this problem?


It seems like my short term solution is to go out and buy a set of T3PA pedals and use something with a potentiometer. An expense I really don’t wont to have :-(
 
All wheels read a voltage as their input from pedals so the wheel doesn't know you have a load cell. The cutoff voltage is fixed for off and fully on. So you will have a range of something like 0.5 volts to 4 volts (these figures vary depending on the manufacturer) If I remember correctly my G27 pedals were 4.2 volts off and 0.6 volts fully on. My T300 works in reverse with a slightly lower range 0.6 volts off and 3.2 volts fully on (approximate figures). If you shorten the travel of a T300 potentiometer based pedal then it may only reach 2.5 volts and the game will set this as 100% brake.
The sensitivity adjustment on your load cell should vary the feedback resistance in the load cell amplifier making it easier or harder for the load cell to drive the amplifier to its full output. A bit of trial and error should give you the feel you are looking unless you have a voltmeter and know the cut off voltage for your wheel.
Otherwise you will need to put a mechanical stop in place so that once your pedal hits the stop the voltage will not change any further and the game will set this voltage as 100% brake input. Obviously you will need a bit of travel in the brake to do this.
 
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All wheels read a voltage as their input from pedals so the wheel doesn't know you have a load cell.

Correct. It also doesn't know I don't have a fixed maximum output either ;-)

The cutoff voltage is fixed for off and fully on.

Yes, a load cell does have a maximum BUT the CSP has a adjustable resistor to alter brake feel and the max applied pressure never reaches near its maximum input.

So you will have a range of something like 0.5 volts to 4 volts (these figures vary depending on the manufacturer) If I remember correctly my G27 pedals were 4.2 volts off and 0.6 volts fully on. My T300 works in reverse with a slightly lower range 0.6 volts off and 3.2 volts fully on (approximate figures). If you shorten the travel of a T300 potentiometer based pedal then it may only reach 2.5 volts and the game will set this as 100% brake.

Correct, as I said in my OP, a potentiometer reads degrees of rotation and the game will set 0-100% of it's available travel.

The sensitivity adjustment on your load cell should vary the feedback resistance in the load cell amplifier making it easier or harder for the load cell to drive the amplifier to its full output. A bit of trial and error should give you the feel you are looking unless you have a voltmeter and know the cut off voltage for your wheel.

Correct and I stated this in my post. The load cell is rated to read up to 50kg, the adjustable resistor allows this figure to be reduced. This is the problem, the game still re-calibrates.

Otherwise you will need to put a mechanical stop in place so that once your pedal hits the stop the voltage will not change any further and the game will set this voltage as 100% brake input. Obviously you will need a bit of travel in the brake to do this.

After I wrote the above and was thinking on the problem I did think that this would be a solution. BUT the appeal with the CSP set up is that it feels like a "real" car's brake pedal in the fact that even after you reach 100% brake application you can still apply more force and "strain/stretch" components in the braking system and as such do not have a mechanical hard stop.

Further to this and after a lot more in depth thought, I have re-assessed my set up. To be able to use the CS pedals with a T300 wheel on a PS4 I have used a Basher Board interface box. This device has a gain adjuster on it as well and I have now set this to minimum. I have also readjusted the resistor on the CSPs to allow usual hard braking to about 90% of brake feel. I trialled this last night and it appears to be better.

So as I said in my OP I am not happy with how this has suddenly changed (for whatever reason but it is a coincidence it was after 1.12 installed) and I have placed an order for the TP3A pedals. Theory being, if you can't beat 'em, join 'em ;-)

If anyone wants to do more reading on CSP load cells here is a great thread from this forum.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/possible-source-of-csp-load-cells.284795/
 
Ok so I have a question. When you first start the game and depress the pedals to calibrate them what is the dial on the CSP set to? Is it set to your normal setting that you like e.g. 5 or 6?
What happens when you start the game and calibrate the pedals with the DSP dial set to 0? Would that then allow you to adjust the dial back to the pressure setting you like without problems?
I think the basher board is just an inverting amplifier that is a slave to the CSP output so the gain adjustment on that will only give fine tuning.
I have a home made load cell mod on my G27 pedals connected to my T300 and I do not have any problems. I make sure that I apply enough pressure, when calibrating, to drive the output voltage from the load cell amplifier to maximum. I do not have a variable sensitivity adjustment.
 
Flavus thank you for your advice and help. I think I have identified the problem. The second press of the brake pedal tonight when I started the game the load cell broke. The common problem where the housing fractures. So it would appear that it obviously must have been fractured about the time 1.12 was updated. The load cell failing would account for the problem I had.

Don't you just hate coincidences?

It's not a bad run as it is only the second time in 7 years it has gone
 
Good news you found it. Well at least you know where to source a new load cell or 4.
I was really surprised to see Fanatec using such a cheap load cell on what is supposed to be quality pedals. I had tinkered with some from a set of scales and they do work fine but I opted for a bar type which I can use on both G27 and T300 by just reversing a few wires. I cannot get the scale load cells to work on my T300, only on the G27.
 
Good news you found it. Well at least you know where to source a new load cell or 4.
I was really surprised to see Fanatec using such a cheap load cell on what is supposed to be quality pedals. I had tinkered with some from a set of scales and they do work fine but I opted for a bar type which I can use on both G27 and T300 by just reversing a few wires. I cannot get the scale load cells to work on my T300, only on the G27.

I've read about that. JBodin's load cell is apparently so much better than the Fanatec's but lacks the adjustable dials of the Fanatec.
 
t500rs with fanatec v1 pedals, since 1.12 no brake on nissan gtr r32, pedal indicator works normal but no braking :) other cars - no problem. weird **** :)
 
t500rs with fanatec v1 pedals, since 1.12 no brake on nissan gtr r32, pedal indicator works normal but no braking :) other cars - no problem. weird **** :)

Its a bug. It happens to me when I load a setup from a previous version. Happens to me on random cars, tracks and setups and if I reset the setup it solves the problem. You just have to plug in your old version setup manually and save which is a bit of a pain. Probably I should report it on the console support thread 💡
 
t500rs with fanatec v1 pedals, since 1.12 no brake on nissan gtr r32, pedal indicator works normal but no braking :) other cars - no problem. weird **** :)
Happened to me too after the patch but only on 3 cars so far. Annoyingly it's 3 cars I've tuned a fair amount. As said above, you'll need to create a new setup and just put all the same values in then delete the old one.
 
I have the ClubSport Pedal V3 hooked into Thrustmaster T300 wheel via CPX Adapter and I have no such problem. I can calibrate any pressure (from 18KG all the way to 90 kg) on the fly with the "gain" knob on the CPX Adapter.

Do you have the CPX Adapter too? How did you hook up your Clubsport Pedal to work with the PS4?
 
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