Ps5 + VR3 + Logitech G Pro Wheel/Pedals

[bk4eva]

For those that have a Vision Racer 3 (VR3) seat and are looking to pickup the Logitech G Pro racing wheel, I would like to let you know the wheel and pedals fits on the VR3…. with some light modifications.

I just finished setting up the Logitech Pro wheel and taking it for a spin on Gran Turismo 7 on Ps5 and it’s amazing. I’ll need a few days to play around with the settings as I don’t have to many hours in a day to play anymore. But let’s get into the heart of the matter:



- Modifications:

- The surface area to mount a wheel base on the VR3 only has 2 holes at the rear of the surface that fits precisely the 2 rear holes on the Logitech G Pro wheel. However, since there is no front hole on the VR3 surface area to mount the wheel, you’ll need to use the table clamp provided on the packaging. The catch here is, the clamp doesn’t tighten all the way to the bottom of the surface area due to no space for it between the VR3 center pole and the surface area barrier. My work around was to fill in tue 2 inches with one of my kids old toy blocks. It a solid rectangle 1x3 inches that allows the clamp to press it against the bottom of the surface area tightly. I’m unable to move the wheel base when I try and purposely turn it. So it’s locked in place. The blocks are not visible so the chrome look is maintained throughout.

- The VR3 comes with 3 pre drilled holes in the pedal surface area. However, these holes do not align with the linear area the Logitech G Pro pedals gives you. Since the spacing is off, you will need to drill new holes. I choose to drill 4 new holes. I simply adjusted the placement of the pedals to my liking and then placed the pedals on the pedal surface area. Then marked where I wanted the screws to go with my kids dry erase marker. I removed the pedals and used my steel bits to drill a whole the same size as the whole that’s pre drilled on the VR3. I went to Home Depot to pickup 4 new: screws, washers, and bolt to fasten the pedals to the pedal surface area.

- Conclusion:

- I’m just happy that I didn’t have to buy a new racing seat just to accommodate the Logitech G Pro. Everything worked well with the setup and I’m enjoying the True force rumble along with the 11 nM of torque in the wheel. I’m not going to lie…. The combination of the chrome VR3 and the Logitech G Pro Wheel/Pedals looks stunning due to the shine of the chrome and the blocky base of the pro wheel. It just works well together to give it an amazing appearance.

If by chance Logitech engineers see this thread, please make the gear shifter you release in the future compatible with the VR3 surface area so I can buy it and attach it without modifications. Thanks I’m advance.

I’ll try to attach pictures in a moment…

 

[Turbunio]

Very nice! 👍🏽

 

[motoman617]

Looks really nice. 👍 My wheel and pedals arrived late today so tomorrow I am mounting them to an old 4Play Racing 80/20 rig I wasn’t using. I made some brackets and added rollers to the rig so I can easily move it about. looked Briefly at the mounting and I am going to have to change some things up to make it fit. Sure won’t look as nice as yours but it will be solid. 😀

 

[Met Entso]

Awesome! Interesting that you are using the table clamp there, I heard it's very solid, as you comment. Good to know for desk users.

 

[Monkey Man]

Can anyone confirm that G Hub for Mac will update the wheelbase firmware?

Also, I can't find a version of G Hub that'll run in macOS 10.13.6 or earlier...

 

[DC5Remy]

Your old shifter works with that wheel?

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Can anyone confirm that G Hub for Mac will update the wheelbase firmware?

Also, I can't find a version of G Hub that'll run in macOS 10.13.6 or earlier...

We're only providing active support for 10.15 through to 12.0, I'm afraid. This is because Apple ended support for versions earlier than that so they no longer get security updates. In fact we're possibly about to end support for 10.15 as its official end of support life is next month! If you are able to update your OS to a newer version then the latest version of G HUB will be able to update the firmware on the wheel.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Your old shifter works with that wheel?

It won't yet, unless you're on PC and can purchase something like the Bodnar USB adapter for it. If you're on console and therefore need to connect the shifter into the base, then we have a solution coming for that early next year (which will also enable you to connect the G-series pedals to the Pro Wheel or connect the Pro Pedals to a G-series wheel).

 

[Monkey Man]

We're only providing active support for 10.15 through to 12.0, I'm afraid. This is because Apple ended support for versions earlier than that so they no longer get security updates. In fact we're possibly about to end support for 10.15 as its official end of support life is next month! If you are able to update your OS to a newer version then the latest version of G HUB will be able to update the firmware on the wheel.

Thank you so much for responding Rich.

Unfortunately I'm still on a 2012 Mac Pro and 2011 MacBook Pro. Can't go beyond 10.13.6 unless I buy a Metal-compatible graphics card for the tower (Mojave is the limit in this case IIRC); no options for the MacBook AFAIK. In any case, 10.14 won't be enough for the G Hub utility. Too bad.

Will be upgrading to Apple Silicon next year, so hopefully there won't be any significant updates to the wheelbase firmware in the meantime 'cause I plan on jumping on this package like a fly onto a 💩.

Thank you again Rich.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Thank you so much for responding Rich.

Unfortunately I'm still on a 2012 Mac Pro and 2011 MacBook Pro. Can't go beyond 10.13.6 unless I buy a Metal-compatible graphics card for the tower (Mojave is the limit in this case IIRC); no options for the MacBook AFAIK. In any case, 10.14 won't be enough for the G Hub utility. Too bad.

Will be upgrading to Apple Silicon next year, so hopefully there won't be any significant updates to the wheelbase firmware in the meantime 'cause I plan on jumping on this package like a fly onto a 💩.

Thank you again Rich.

No worries - the other option, of course, is if you know someone with a Windows laptop or Macbook that's running a newer OS. If they can bring that over and run the FW update for you then that works too.

 

[Monkey Man]

Indeed, but sadly illness and long-term isolation have meant that such options aren't there for me mate.

Tell me, if I could get hold of a version that'll run on 10.13.6 High Sierra, will it still recognise the wheelbase and allow me to update? That'd be awesome of course.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Indeed, but sadly illness and long-term isolation have meant that such options aren't there for me mate.

Tell me, if I could get hold of a version that'll run on 10.13.6 High Sierra, will it still recognise the wheelbase and allow me to update? That'd be awesome of course.

Sorry to hear that. I'm afraid an earlier version of G HUB wouldn't cover it as those versions haven't been updated for some time. However, the Pro Wheel will function just fine as it is without the firmware update; you'll have the less-simplified OLED settings menu which has separate settings for Trueforce and Legacy FFB but it'll still work.

Fair warning though: where things could become a problem is later on if we release more products in the ecosystem, when support for those will only come through firmware updates for the wheel base.

 

[Monkey Man]

Gee thanks for the heads-up Rich.

... you'll have the less-simplified OLED settings menu...

Not sure what you mean by this mate. Not a typo?

Sorry for the repeated questioning.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Here's the list of settings that are on the OLED settings screen on the firmware that is on the wheels coming out of the factory:

TF TORQUE
TF AUDIO
TF FILTER
FFB TORQUE
FFB FILTER
DAMPENER
ANGLE
BRAKE FORCE
L PADDLE
R PADDLE
CLUTCH BITE
RPM MODE
RPM BRIGHTNESS

And here's the settings that are in the OLED once you've applied the firmware update:

STRENGTH
TF AUDIO
FFB FILTER
DAMPENER
ANGLE
BRAKE FORCE
L PADDLE
R PADDLE
CLUTCH BITE
RPM MODE
RPM BRIGHTNESS

As you can see, rather than having separate settings for Trueforce and Legacy FFB strength/torque and filter, we've combined them. It doesn't affect functionality, it just makes it easier (you no longer need to think about whether you're running a Trueforce or legacy FFB title).

 

[Met Entso]

Here's the list of settings that are on the OLED settings screen on the firmware that is on the wheels coming out of the factory:

TF TORQUE
TF AUDIO
TF FILTER
FFB TORQUE
FFB FILTER
DAMPENER
ANGLE
BRAKE FORCE
L PADDLE
R PADDLE
CLUTCH BITE
RPM MODE
RPM BRIGHTNESS

And here's the settings that are in the OLED once you've applied the firmware update:

STRENGTH
TF AUDIO
FFB FILTER
DAMPENER
ANGLE
BRAKE FORCE
L PADDLE
R PADDLE
CLUTCH BITE
RPM MODE
RPM BRIGHTNESS

As you can see, rather than having separate settings for Trueforce and Legacy FFB strength/torque and filter, we've combined them. It doesn't affect functionality, it just makes it easier (you no longer need to think about whether you're running a Trueforce or legacy FFB title).

So TF-AUDIO, TF-TORQUE and TF-FILTER are combined in TFAUDIO?
And FFB-TORQUE and FFB-FILTER in FFB-FILTER?
Isn't there a lose of fine-tuning? just asking, i have no idea what those parameters do.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

The main tuning parameters (outside of what a game might offer) are Strength/Torque, TF Audio (of course, only applies to Trueforce titles), Filter and Dampener. You don't lose any tuning with the firmware update:
The two Torque settings get combined into Strength (so you only need to adjust one strength setting and it applies to both Trueforce and Legacy FFB engines).
The two Filter settings get combined into one FFB Filter setting (same reasoning as above).

The filter setting adjusts whether you want things smoother or to have more of a "raw" feel and is entirely based on your personal preference.
The Dampener setting does exactly what the name suggests. DD wheels can be incredibly responsive and in some titles that can result in odd feelings - the classic that most of us have experienced, even on lower-powered wheels is the oscillation that you get when you drive down a straight, let go of the wheel and it just starts to oscillate wildly left/right as it centres itself, goes too far then tries to overcorrect. Adding Dampener will help dampen that down and prevent it from happening. Even outside of that it gives you some of the feeling you get in a real car, where what you actually feel through the steering wheel is made up of all the stuff that's between the road and you: tyres, suspension, steering rack etc. The general recommendation is to run the dampener at a low enough setting where you're hitting the balance between not having the wheel too damped so that you lose feel, but also not so loose that it just bounces around excessively.

 

[Met Entso]

The main tuning parameters (outside of what a game might offer) are Strength/Torque, TF Audio (of course, only applies to Trueforce titles), Filter and Dampener. You don't lose any tuning with the firmware update:
The two Torque settings get combined into Strength (so you only need to adjust one strength setting and it applies to both Trueforce and Legacy FFB engines).
The two Filter settings get combined into one FFB Filter setting (same reasoning as above).

The filter setting adjusts whether you want things smoother or to have more of a "raw" feel and is entirely based on your personal preference.
The Dampener setting does exactly what the name suggests. DD wheels can be incredibly responsive and in some titles that can result in odd feelings - the classic that most of us have experienced, even on lower-powered wheels is the oscillation that you get when you drive down a straight, let go of the wheel and it just starts to oscillate wildly left/right as it centres itself, goes too far then tries to overcorrect. Adding Dampener will help dampen that down and prevent it from happening. Even outside of that it gives you some of the feeling you get in a real car, where what you actually feel through the steering wheel is made up of all the stuff that's between the road and you: tyres, suspension, steering rack etc. The general recommendation is to run the dampener at a low enough setting where you're hitting the balance between not having the wheel too damped so that you lose feel, but also not so loose that it just bounces around excessively.

Thank you Rich for this information.

A reviewer commented that one of the great aspects of this wheelbase is the possibility of adjusting TF and FFB separately, to get the best feeling. I don't want to be the one splitting hairs here but it seems that we have lost the possibility of having unique TORQUE and FILTER settings for TF, so I don't know if we are losing options here. I don't have the wheel yet so I don't know, and can't compare.

 

[LOGI_Rich]

Yeah, they’re referring to the fact that you can alter the strength of the wheel whilst having a separate adjustment for the Trueforce Audio side of things, which you still have. It’s worth noting that most reviewers were running this newer firmware update.

 

[Monkey Man]

Gee, thank you so much for clarifying for me / us, Rich!