- 6,777
- Florida
- gtamann123
Question about a AC power cord
- Thread starter Techy
- 22 comments
- 651 views
- 35,192
- NoDak
- Cy-Fi
I've been using the 1 foot version for my projector for about a year with no issues. I say go for it. 👍
- 35,192
- NoDak
- Cy-Fi
Really the only difference is aesthetics. If you already have an extension cord, you can certainly use it without issues. If you need to buy an extension cord, I think I'd rather buy the PC power ord just so I didn't have a spool of cord I don't need laying around.
BobK
Premium
- 7,020
- Massachusetts, USA
If you have to buy an extension cord it's likely you'll spend as much or more than that ten foot cord goes for (unless they rape you on shipping). But as @TB says, if you have a suitable one laying around then yeah, just use that.
I have a handful of one- and three-foot cords laying around. They surely come in handy sometimes.
I have a handful of one- and three-foot cords laying around. They surely come in handy sometimes.
- 5,474
- Vic, Australia
- gundalini
And that's ^^ exactly why you don't buy cheap crap electrical leads that are plugged into the mains unless you know exactly what you are doing.
Apart from the blatantly wrong conductor size I wouldn't be surprised if that cable also has dodgy insulation properties at best.
Apart from the blatantly wrong conductor size I wouldn't be surprised if that cable also has dodgy insulation properties at best.
- 11,931
- Australia
- I_Grayson_Fox_I
Well people plug it in, they use it a bit.
They may not put max 10amp load or what ever the max amp wall sockets put out in the US.
Only way to know is to open it and see.
That chinese one in the video said it was 0.5mm² but it clearly wasn't
- 35,192
- NoDak
- Cy-Fi
The entire circuit in the US is either 15 or 20 amps depending on the size of the wire used but keep in mind that also on the circuit might be lighting or could include an entirely different room.
That said, I think you're top end draw for an 18 gauge is around 6-7 amps. If you don't think that's enough, you can always jump up to the 14 gauge for a few dollars more.
- 5,474
- Vic, Australia
- gundalini
You guys mix lighting and power circuits on the same circuit/breaker or fuse?
By lighting I mean hard wired mostly in the ceiling and not just a light that can be plugged in to a power circuit.
Down here that's a big no-no, they must be separate circuits as the supply breaker and cable size are different on each circuit.
- 35,192
- NoDak
- Cy-Fi
Residential: Yes. Both the receptacles and the hard wired lighting are 120V so they are usually on the same circuit and the circuit might include adjacent rooms/areas. My office and the hallway outside are all on the same circuit, for example. What really sucks about that is when I switched out a light switch for a dimmer in the office or the switch for an occupancy sensor in the pantry. Killing the breaker means I can't plug a light into the wall to see what I'm doing as they're down, too. My solution to that little problem.
Commercial: The retail stores I worked on have 120V receptacles and the lights were mostly 277V so they were all wired separately.
- 5,474
- Vic, Australia
- gundalini
Killing the breaker means I can't plug a light into the wall to see what I'm doing as they're down, too. My solution to that little problem.
Yeah that's another reason to have them on separate circuits.
That way at least you still have lights if you overload a power circuit. Nothing worse than fumbling around in the dark looking for a torch to go and reset the breaker.
Out of interest are you guys allowed to perform your own electrical work on fixed wiring?
It's illegal here.
My inner electrician alarm bells are ringing loudly here.
Where did you get that information from?
In general terms.
Power-20 amp.
Lighting-10 amp.
Oven-16 amp minimum depending on a few factors.
It's also irrelevant that the lighting could go down to 3.5 amps for all I know someone could have stockpiled 100w incandescent globes.
The circuit breaker is there only to protect the cable on the circuit, nothing more, nothing less.
As an electrician I don't know nor care what someone plugs into a GPO (power socket), it's out of my control so all I can do is protect the cable that supplies the circuit.
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- 5,474
- Vic, Australia
- gundalini
Ah sorry I should have been a bit more specific. I was referring to circuit breakers on newer installations.
From memory I thought fuse wire was 8 and 16amp circuits, it's been that long since I've dealt with it or domestic installations for that matter. Better money and conditions in industrial work.
If I can find it I'll dig out my 1986 reg book, that should cover it.
I think @Punknoodle is also a sparky so he may know off the top of his head.
Pretty much yes, I won't bore you to death with various maximum demand formula and special clauses concerning ovens and hot plates, but that's the main reason for it.
- 35,192
- NoDak
- Cy-Fi
Circuit breakers don't blow all that often and when they do, it's fairly isolated to the room (and perhaps one adjacent room) so finding lights that work isn't a problem. As for planned electrical work, I just grab the headlamp while I'm grabbing my other tools.
If I'm honest, I'm not positive, but (and I know there shouldn't be stipulations...) what I've done has been incredibly simple stuff - switching light switches, replacing non-functioning GFCI receptacles, moving and adding lights in the garage, etc. basically anything downstream from the electrical panel I'm alright working on as I can kill the power and test to make sure what I'm going to work on is off. Adding new breakers in the panel, on the other hand, I leave to the pros.
- 5,474
- Vic, Australia
- gundalini
If I'm honest, I'm not positive, but (and I know there shouldn't be stipulations...) what I've done has been incredibly simple stuff - switching light switches, replacing non-functioning GFCI receptacles, moving and adding lights in the garage, etc. basically anything downstream from the electrical panel I'm alright working on as I can kill the power and test to make sure what I'm going to work on is off. Adding new breakers in the panel, on the other hand, I leave to the pros.
Ah OK, I wasn't being judgemental just interested that's all.
You used to be able to bits and pieces here but after quite a few incidents and it being a gray area it was stopped. Only a licenced electrician can now.
A bit over the top really as a lot of it hardly rocket science just replacing parts. Running new circuits slightly different as rules and regs need to be followed.
Crazy thing is here anyone can walk into a hardware store/electrical distributor and buy everything needed to completely wire a house without showing a licence.
- 11,931
- Australia
- I_Grayson_Fox_I
You can buy mains and lighting wire that is approved by the electrical standards.
Mains, 20Amp
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WB1568
Mains, 10Amp
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WB1565
Lights,7.5Amp
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WB1560
- 3,211
- Brisbane
- Punknoodle_Nick
Not necessarily. There is nothing saying you can't mix them, as long as you wire them both in a cable size rated to the circuit breaker. For example it's quite common for a feed to be run to an outside covered seating area to supply an outside GPO and also a daylight switch controlling a light on the same circuit.
Like you mate I don't touch domestic or commercial wiring really, I do process control and automation work (in fact at the moment I'm not even on the tools as I was asked to come to Tasmania to supervise the electrical install of a new cheese manufacturing process at a factory down here by one of our clients so I'll be down here for a few months).
In regards to circuit protection, it really isn't black and white because there are just so many variables, for instance every country is different, and even in Australia/New Zealand there are a lot of factors to consider when selecting the right circuit breaker for a circuit even in something as simple as a domestic installation.
On topic, because of the availability of so many cheap imported electrical products, you must ensure you buy from a reputable supplier. The IEC standard has a current rating that all cables with that connector on them have to comply with, so rest assured a proper IEC lead will work no problems at all on anything that has an IEC socket.
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