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Can anyone suggest what type of car and also have the set-up of it...I'm trying to win the Escudo but can't seem to get away from 5 second penalties every corner. thanks 
Rally Car dirt set-up and car
- Thread starter Doug Vader
- 15 comments
- 18,020 views
- 142
First off, SLOW DOWN earlier, going into the corners. Sounds like youre panicking in trying to get or maintain a lead, and cutting your own throat, with the penalties. I wouldnt use the Escudo for Dirt/Snow races, either. Thats compounding your problem, with too much speed, and lesser handling for you.
I used the Ford Escort Rally Car '98 to win the HARD Spec Condition Races(particularly Gran Canyon). If you can win that race with a car, you can win all the rest of the Dirt/Snow races with it. I think you can win it in the Normal Tahiti race. DONT do weight reduction. The extra weight sounds like it will help reduce your rear from spinning out.
You may want to upgrade Turbo, but, maybe just the mid-turbo purchase. Also buy a Full Tranny so you can adjust gears depending on the track.
No real need to deviate from the stock settings too much, other than Tranny Auto-set.
If you dont have that car, or cant win it, try the Subaru Imprezza's. They handle well, and you can win most dirt/snow races with it.
Other possiblilty is a truck. They handle surprisingly well, with little adjustment, if any.
I used the Ford Escort Rally Car '98 to win the HARD Spec Condition Races(particularly Gran Canyon). If you can win that race with a car, you can win all the rest of the Dirt/Snow races with it. I think you can win it in the Normal Tahiti race. DONT do weight reduction. The extra weight sounds like it will help reduce your rear from spinning out.
You may want to upgrade Turbo, but, maybe just the mid-turbo purchase. Also buy a Full Tranny so you can adjust gears depending on the track.
No real need to deviate from the stock settings too much, other than Tranny Auto-set.
If you dont have that car, or cant win it, try the Subaru Imprezza's. They handle well, and you can win most dirt/snow races with it.
Other possiblilty is a truck. They handle surprisingly well, with little adjustment, if any.
If you are going to hit the wall make the back end hit the wall. That does not result in penalties.
Whatever car you use try the following:
Highest ride height.
Low spring rates and damper rates
Max drive to front wheels (50%)
Brakes towards the back I use 7 front 11 rear
Use the emergency brake just after turning to swing the back end around.
With the faster cars you will find it hard to do clean laps so make sure the back end hits walls not the front end.
Whatever car you use try the following:
Highest ride height.
Low spring rates and damper rates
Max drive to front wheels (50%)
Brakes towards the back I use 7 front 11 rear
Use the emergency brake just after turning to swing the back end around.
With the faster cars you will find it hard to do clean laps so make sure the back end hits walls not the front end.
- 66
i use the 4wd ruf hehehe... i miss the old porche rally days...
I have a driving force pro. I'm not a great driver and was struggling with the rallys. I don't fully understand the settings, but I'd bought a TVR Speed 12 and couldn't control it until I found some settings for it in here. With that as a guide, I messed with some of the same type of settings (ride height, suspension, brakes, gearing) and started to get the car (Mitsubishi Evo VIII) to behave a bit better and was able to win all the easy rallys with it.
When I moved to the 'normal' rallys, I had to start all over again because the Evo just wasn't fast enough. First I tried the Ford RS200, but kept loosing it on the corners no matter how I set it (I think now I might not have been slowing enough at the corners. I managed to do Grand Canyon, but couldn't do the reverse, so I spent nearly all my credits on a Mitsubishi Super Rally car and put a 4th stage turbo on it .
But I was still strugging. I could get plenty of distance at the begining, but the other car always caught up and passed me on the latter, twisty parts of the track. That was when I began to realise that I simply wasn't slowing down enough to get around the corners and was always going wide. I took the 4th stage turbo off and bought a 3rd stage and things got better. I managed to win all the normal rallys, but it was always close with the other car right behind me.
So now I have to see how I get on with the Mitsubishi in the Hard races and I don't relish it at all. If I put the stage 4 back on, I think I will struggle to control it. We'll have to see.
Tips for rallying from someone who don't know much? Try lowering the ride height (front 10 lower than the back), make the back break twice the setting of the front (ie 3/6), toe the front wheels at -2, back at -1.
Most importantly, BRAKE and get down to 1st when taking those hairpins.
I know it aint very scientific (and some of it might even be down right wrong) but it worked for me
Alan
When I moved to the 'normal' rallys, I had to start all over again because the Evo just wasn't fast enough. First I tried the Ford RS200, but kept loosing it on the corners no matter how I set it (I think now I might not have been slowing enough at the corners. I managed to do Grand Canyon, but couldn't do the reverse, so I spent nearly all my credits on a Mitsubishi Super Rally car and put a 4th stage turbo on it .
But I was still strugging. I could get plenty of distance at the begining, but the other car always caught up and passed me on the latter, twisty parts of the track. That was when I began to realise that I simply wasn't slowing down enough to get around the corners and was always going wide. I took the 4th stage turbo off and bought a 3rd stage and things got better. I managed to win all the normal rallys, but it was always close with the other car right behind me.
So now I have to see how I get on with the Mitsubishi in the Hard races and I don't relish it at all. If I put the stage 4 back on, I think I will struggle to control it. We'll have to see.
Tips for rallying from someone who don't know much? Try lowering the ride height (front 10 lower than the back), make the back break twice the setting of the front (ie 3/6), toe the front wheels at -2, back at -1.
Most importantly, BRAKE and get down to 1st when taking those hairpins.
I know it aint very scientific (and some of it might even be down right wrong) but it worked for me
Alan
- 66
well... lower the gearsetting... so it accellerates quickly but doesnt reach massive speeds... that way youll get through the few straights very fast and still be able to brake efficiently at corners...
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Use the Peugeot 206 Rally Car 1999 fully upgraded except for the roll cage (seems to make the car slide out more on turns) and do "not" change any of the settings- You must buy it- To get the money do the second "special conditions" race (the 2nd one in easy)- Win the Toyota Rally raid car and sell it- Do this 4x and you will have the money for upgrades also- Will take about 50 minutes- this is less time than you will spend doing trial and error with the other rally cars- I have done all the testing for you- You might win almost all the races with the Subaru rally cars fully upgraded or the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV Rally Car'97 fully upgraded but you will have absolute fits on the Grand Canyon (Hard) races. As it is-you will probably have fits even with the Peugeot. I test all of the rally cars in many different setups(except for the one you win in the Grand Canyon -hard races) took days of testing to figure this out.(For instance the Subaru rally car 2001 prototype has probably the highest top speed but the least grip in turns-the Subaru 2001 has slightly higher grip but slightly less top speed-the Subaru 99 has the best grip but less acceleration and top speed-the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV Rally Car'97 has good acceleration but mid to top end speed lacks, and grip is just slightly less than than the 99 Subaru- The Suzuki Escudo Dirt Trial Car '98 has superb top end-but most tracks do not have enough long straights to use it-the low end acceleration is not strong enough as some of the slower rally cars take off faster-The Peugeot has excellent acceleration-it swings out the tail end good if you just flash the brakes before the turn-(this is good for kicking the tail end off walls to keep speed up and avoid the dreaded 5 second penalty)-good top speed and a well balanced car-You might find other cars slightly more to your liking or driving style on other tracks(except for the ice tracks which I used the Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV Rally Car'97 on) but I doubt it(Tip-Get out front and stay out front to avoid the "other" car hitting "you" and giving "you" the 5 second penalty)- Let my extreme agony be your time saving comfort-Trust Me!!!Doug VaderCan anyone suggest what type of car and also have the set-up of it...I'm trying to win the Escudo but can't seem to get away from 5 second penalties every corner. thanks
I won the Escudo last night using the Mitsubishi Super Rally car. Had some really excellent, tight races and it got really good to me, sliding the car around the bends.
BUT...GRAND CANYON ...that track was designed by the devil himself. I think I'm going to have to do a bit more tweaking to help me get the car around that track.
Alan
BUT...GRAND CANYON
...that track was designed by the devil himself. I think I'm going to have to do a bit more tweaking to help me get the car around that track.Alan
- 158
- ORLEANS - FRANCE
- snypanyx
I did exactly the same thing yesterday !Alaneye
I added stage 4 turbo to the car, it's still controlable. Having driven the delta S4, I find the Mitsu easier to drive, as the power curve is more stable. The S4 is fun, but there is a point where the power comes very brutally.
For the hard races, the Mitsu seems to be the best for me so far. Didn't change anything about the settings.
snypa
You drove it stock? Jeez, I couldn't control it at all like that...or do you mean you didn't change anything for the Hard versions of the tracks.
Another important thing to my winning, which has been mentioned elsewhere in this thread, is to get ahead. Once you are infront, it is possible to block the other car if things go wrong.
Alan
- 158
- ORLEANS - FRANCE
- snypanyx
Alaneye
I drove it completely stock, except for the stage 4 turbo which allows me to go faster in the straights.
I find that the Mitsu in stock is good enough ; a few hours ago I tried other cars, the 1999 Subaru rally car and the Ford RS200, and I suffered from understeer (especially on the ford).
I agree with you, it's important to be in front. When behind, you lose some kind of visibility, and it's more difficult to keep cool on throttle, trying to catch the A.I. I often made the mistake to go beyond the limits in order to catch the car, and of course it worsed the situation. I also think that the AI, when close behind, seems to be not 100% efficient (should suffer from lack of visibility ). At this moment if he passes you, it's very difficult to follow him then.
depending on the road surface slow own early then whack it sideways blipping the throttle then continue using throttle to control the slide thru the corner, so yea ive read a fwe other threads saying people cant drift using a certain wheel or something, this might be your problem but there is any easy fix if you change a couple settings cant rmeber off hand try the gt4 board
