Originally posted by neon_duke
Don't hate V8s.
In my Neons, which both get driven hard, I use Mobil One 10w-30 full-synthetic oil and change it every 5,000 miles or so. That's plenty frequent for a full-synth. DO NOT buy blends - there's no point. I use Purolator Pure-1 filters; no need to spend $20 on something fancy.
There should be no need to mess with your transmission oil. Have it checked and leave it alone until the owner's manual says it should be replaced, which is probably at more than 100,000 miles.
For coolant I use Prestone or similar. Avoid the "enviro friendly" types because they do not work as well.
The drop-in filter will make the car rev a little quicker but you will not feel a huge difference. The AEM piece is nice and the bypass valve is a great idea. I don't know how the intake plumbing is routed on the 'teg, but going to an Iceman on the Neon made a noticeable difference (previously had K&N drop ins because they are cheap and last forever).
Don't fall for hype on spark plugs or especially expensive plug wires. Use whatever NGK plugs or Chaampions are recommended for the car. Change them every 10-15,000 miles. It's cheap and it will keep them fresh. Platinum plugs will relieve you of more money but that's it - they didn't seem to give me as good a spark.
Plug wires will last at least 60,000 miles so they do not need to be replaced every time. Plug wires are the biggest myth in small-car tuning. You can get a huge set of 9.5mm wires in some cool color that cost $75, and they have exactly the same conductor as a $30 set of 6.5mm ones. I'm partial to Crane Firewires which can be had on sale for about $40/set.
A battery is a battery. Get something warranted for 60 months and it will last 60 months. If you live somewhere really warm you can try a 12-volt lawn tractor battery which will save a few pounds in weight, but it won't have much reserve. Skip the trendy-and-expensive Optimas or other gelcells. They're costly, heavier than a lead-acid battery, and they do exactly the same job. Plus they hate to be charged and only like a trickle charger when they're down. The only reason to go the gelcell route is if you want to relocate the battery to the trunk.