- 1,370
- Laval, Canada
- OutbackV6
Well hello again my friend, guess what? 
I’ve just finished doing a review/test of your Honda NSX Type R ’92 tune. It’s taken more time than I would have wanted, but there’s only 24 hours a day and though I only sleep 5 to 6 hours, I have a few projects going on that require my presence, also I’m working on a few new tunes myself that should be ready for the year 2056.
Before starting I would just like to mention a few things,
1) All the lap times are recorded in total seconds, it makes it easier to do time based calculations that way. Speed and distance are in kmh, and meters
2) I am no expert in any way on tuning, replicas, or as a driver, so these are just my personal observations, opinions and lap times. oh and I use A PS3 controller.
3) If you find this to lengthy just sent me a message and I will edit it to your taste.
4) I’ve also included the other tests I’ve done with this car, I’m not including the brake tests because I’ve already posted it in another thread, and your well aware of the results.
5) Finally, I now think replicas are great, as tuning cars to the max of their potential even if it's not like IRL, one way or the other you have to know what your doing and to me the only goal in this game is to have fun. I love the challenges of trying different types of ways to tune a car, the only thing I don't like in the game is the Red Bull X Fan car, and that's because I can't drive that thing, I must be getting to old.
So here we go, the first thing I did was get some lap times on 5 different tracks, I used abs1, and sports hard tires, all aids off. It’s only after having done the Brake tests that I decided that after this car I'll be working with abs0 for tuning purposes. One more little thing, I calculate my average time by using my best 3 laps of a 9 lap session. The best lap gets 30%, 2nd & 3rd get 35% each on the total average.
1) The first pic is the lap times on each course, the second pic gives you the average time, speed and distance of the combined tracks. The gain/loss time and speed will compare the before/after on the following sections. The Best Average time is the selection of the test that gives the best results. The bottom section is the fastest laps done on each track.
2) We had a small discussion about the - standard - inchup 1 - inchup 2 wheels, so I’ve included the tests I’ve done with this. Does one give a real advantage, I doubt very much, will run the tests on other cars before deciding.
3) I also tested the different tire compounds and made a scale to see where each type of tire was situated.
4) You also mention on your tuning sheet to use a steering sensitivity of +1 or +2, so I’ve started doing tests with these but so far the results are not conclusive, again I'll be testing these more on other cars.
5) Here are the results of different brake adjustments I tried, though the best results I had were with a BB of 8/6, I went on with a BB 6/5, just see how it would turn out in the end.
6) To match the real NSX weight distribution you added a ballast, I also wanted to know how different positions would work out on this car. You’ll notice that your gonna have to work extra hard to make this work because by reproducing the IRL balance the car becomes more unstable. ( you should thank PD, thanks to there small errors it's help you become quite agile at balancing suspension setups).
7) Mechanical Limited Slip Differential, now I understand the principle of this function, but I have no idea how you can adjust it to IRL setup, my knowledge on this matter is pretty limited, so I tried one of my own settings also. While replicating the real MLSD you actually made the car a little slower and less stable, so your now going to have to work super extra hard to make this work. ( I already know how this story ends, so don’t worry)
8) With the suspension fully loaded, I made a side test out of curiosity to see how the car would work with an alternate MLSD setting, so thats pic2 ( this is not used on the final average lap time analyzer), also I’ve taken the liberty of showing two different results on pic 4 & 5, the first one (pic4) has all the tracks used for the average time, on pic 5 I’ve taken out the results for daytona, it increases the difference dramatically.
9) Ridox VS Turnleft, just kidding, but I wanted to try the car out with abs0 & Comfort soft on Tsukuba, so much easier with abs1, really.
I was almost forgetting, there are two more tests that I forced that poor little NSX through, the first one is to get the top speed on every track using different cars, hopefully when I’ll have enough data I’ll be able to match a bunch of tracks to one transmission setup. The other is what I initially contacted you for, I want to make a car modeling algorithm, I know you don’t really believe in this but if it eventually works or not is not as important as the experience I’ll get from trying to understand the physics of GT6, which should help me make better tunings. So your car is the first official data entry in this experiment. I’m still at stage of trying to find different way of analyzing the cars data with different setups to then apply them to an other car.
10) Remember them,
yeah time for the review,
Considering that you actually made the car less good by duplicating real life specs for the weight distribution and the MLSD, it’s damn freaking good what you pulled off with the suspension, I think that this is what I like about your replicas, you really have to understand how to tune a car, after you put yourself in a box full of limitations, if you can’t find a way to make it work you’ll be driving your car to the cemetery.
The feel of grip is excellent, not to much that you’ll feel like your is on a rail car, and not too loose that you’re cutting the grass and repainting the walls.
The stock transmission offers decent accelerations and top speeds I have no problems with leaving it that way.
The MLSD works well when the suspension is tuned, which made me ponder on the way each part affects the other, PD may have done some pretty good programming by making different parts dependable of each other, like IRL. Brakes, MLSD, Suspension, Aero, and Weight reduction all have some kind of effect on the other. Tires have an effect on all, and powering up is closely related to MLSD, aero, weight reduction/ballast, & transmission.
Brakes: abs0, this makes it more of a challenge, the BB seems very good (for me that is), as for abs1, this is my personal thought and may not be applicable to real replica cars, but from what I’ve tested you can basically start your BB at 10/10 and then roll off the front or rear value to balance the braking, this will give you the most braking power possible, another thing I've tried once was to use a wet track and brake in a straight line to see if the car would stay balanced,I'll try that again soon to see if it helps. As for using higher abs values I haven’t seen anybody use them, so I’m starting to test these, according to PD it should give more grip when braking in a curve while taking some out from the straight line, at least that’s what I understood, I could be wrong though.
Suspension: Excellent, if I were to be picky (I think I will
), on Deep Forest the front of the car was a bit jumpy, if you look at my lap times after putting on the suspension setup, you’ll notice that my lap times are really not constant, it could be the drivers fault, and/or maybe the car was a bit sensitive to the bumps and gave me some trouble finding the best line, also might have been a bad day at the office. Back to Deep Forest, and this also applies to Autumn Ring, when turning on some curves you get a granular feel, feels like the wheels are jumping on the road, sort of like the feel you get IRL when you hit your brakes hard on a slippery road and the abs comes on. Not sure if this slows you down though. Last thing on Silverstone International, the first curve after the start, with the stock setup I can take that curve by letting go the gas about 1 second and than flooring it until the 130 degree slow curve. (sorry, don’t know the names of those curves). With the car tuned I couldn’t match that, but I don’t know if I was going slower there because my lap times were better, I should have saved my best laps on both setups to see what was happening, could be the MLSD was pushing me off (oversteer) but I could still have been going faster, anyway that’s just to be picky.
So in conclusion, you should retire, no seriously I have trouble finding cars that you have not done replicas off. Great job my friend 👍👍👍, I’ve started testing your Skyline and Civic, but it could be a while before I finish those, I’ve have about 10 cars that I’m tuning and running tests with so until next week when I come and pester you for some info on replicas (citroen 2cv), Take good care of yourself, have a good day.
I’ve just finished doing a review/test of your Honda NSX Type R ’92 tune. It’s taken more time than I would have wanted, but there’s only 24 hours a day and though I only sleep 5 to 6 hours, I have a few projects going on that require my presence, also I’m working on a few new tunes myself that should be ready for the year 2056.Before starting I would just like to mention a few things,
1) All the lap times are recorded in total seconds, it makes it easier to do time based calculations that way. Speed and distance are in kmh, and meters
2) I am no expert in any way on tuning, replicas, or as a driver, so these are just my personal observations, opinions and lap times. oh and I use A PS3 controller.
3) If you find this to lengthy just sent me a message and I will edit it to your taste.
4) I’ve also included the other tests I’ve done with this car, I’m not including the brake tests because I’ve already posted it in another thread, and your well aware of the results.
5) Finally, I now think replicas are great, as tuning cars to the max of their potential even if it's not like IRL, one way or the other you have to know what your doing and to me the only goal in this game is to have fun. I love the challenges of trying different types of ways to tune a car, the only thing I don't like in the game is the Red Bull X Fan car, and that's because I can't drive that thing, I must be getting to old.
So here we go, the first thing I did was get some lap times on 5 different tracks, I used abs1, and sports hard tires, all aids off. It’s only after having done the Brake tests that I decided that after this car I'll be working with abs0 for tuning purposes. One more little thing, I calculate my average time by using my best 3 laps of a 9 lap session. The best lap gets 30%, 2nd & 3rd get 35% each on the total average.
1) The first pic is the lap times on each course, the second pic gives you the average time, speed and distance of the combined tracks. The gain/loss time and speed will compare the before/after on the following sections. The Best Average time is the selection of the test that gives the best results. The bottom section is the fastest laps done on each track.
2) We had a small discussion about the - standard - inchup 1 - inchup 2 wheels, so I’ve included the tests I’ve done with this. Does one give a real advantage, I doubt very much, will run the tests on other cars before deciding.
3) I also tested the different tire compounds and made a scale to see where each type of tire was situated.
4) You also mention on your tuning sheet to use a steering sensitivity of +1 or +2, so I’ve started doing tests with these but so far the results are not conclusive, again I'll be testing these more on other cars.
5) Here are the results of different brake adjustments I tried, though the best results I had were with a BB of 8/6, I went on with a BB 6/5, just see how it would turn out in the end.
6) To match the real NSX weight distribution you added a ballast, I also wanted to know how different positions would work out on this car. You’ll notice that your gonna have to work extra hard to make this work because by reproducing the IRL balance the car becomes more unstable. ( you should thank PD, thanks to there small errors it's help you become quite agile at balancing suspension setups).
7) Mechanical Limited Slip Differential, now I understand the principle of this function, but I have no idea how you can adjust it to IRL setup, my knowledge on this matter is pretty limited, so I tried one of my own settings also. While replicating the real MLSD you actually made the car a little slower and less stable, so your now going to have to work super extra hard to make this work. ( I already know how this story ends, so don’t worry)
8) With the suspension fully loaded, I made a side test out of curiosity to see how the car would work with an alternate MLSD setting, so thats pic2 ( this is not used on the final average lap time analyzer), also I’ve taken the liberty of showing two different results on pic 4 & 5, the first one (pic4) has all the tracks used for the average time, on pic 5 I’ve taken out the results for daytona, it increases the difference dramatically.
9) Ridox VS Turnleft, just kidding, but I wanted to try the car out with abs0 & Comfort soft on Tsukuba, so much easier with abs1, really.
I was almost forgetting, there are two more tests that I forced that poor little NSX through, the first one is to get the top speed on every track using different cars, hopefully when I’ll have enough data I’ll be able to match a bunch of tracks to one transmission setup. The other is what I initially contacted you for, I want to make a car modeling algorithm, I know you don’t really believe in this but if it eventually works or not is not as important as the experience I’ll get from trying to understand the physics of GT6, which should help me make better tunings. So your car is the first official data entry in this experiment. I’m still at stage of trying to find different way of analyzing the cars data with different setups to then apply them to an other car.
10) Remember them,
yeah time for the review,
Considering that you actually made the car less good by duplicating real life specs for the weight distribution and the MLSD, it’s damn freaking good what you pulled off with the suspension, I think that this is what I like about your replicas, you really have to understand how to tune a car, after you put yourself in a box full of limitations, if you can’t find a way to make it work you’ll be driving your car to the cemetery.
The feel of grip is excellent, not to much that you’ll feel like your is on a rail car, and not too loose that you’re cutting the grass and repainting the walls.
The stock transmission offers decent accelerations and top speeds I have no problems with leaving it that way.
The MLSD works well when the suspension is tuned, which made me ponder on the way each part affects the other, PD may have done some pretty good programming by making different parts dependable of each other, like IRL. Brakes, MLSD, Suspension, Aero, and Weight reduction all have some kind of effect on the other. Tires have an effect on all, and powering up is closely related to MLSD, aero, weight reduction/ballast, & transmission.
Brakes: abs0, this makes it more of a challenge, the BB seems very good (for me that is), as for abs1, this is my personal thought and may not be applicable to real replica cars, but from what I’ve tested you can basically start your BB at 10/10 and then roll off the front or rear value to balance the braking, this will give you the most braking power possible, another thing I've tried once was to use a wet track and brake in a straight line to see if the car would stay balanced,I'll try that again soon to see if it helps. As for using higher abs values I haven’t seen anybody use them, so I’m starting to test these, according to PD it should give more grip when braking in a curve while taking some out from the straight line, at least that’s what I understood, I could be wrong though.
Suspension: Excellent, if I were to be picky (I think I will
), on Deep Forest the front of the car was a bit jumpy, if you look at my lap times after putting on the suspension setup, you’ll notice that my lap times are really not constant, it could be the drivers fault, and/or maybe the car was a bit sensitive to the bumps and gave me some trouble finding the best line, also might have been a bad day at the office. Back to Deep Forest, and this also applies to Autumn Ring, when turning on some curves you get a granular feel, feels like the wheels are jumping on the road, sort of like the feel you get IRL when you hit your brakes hard on a slippery road and the abs comes on. Not sure if this slows you down though. Last thing on Silverstone International, the first curve after the start, with the stock setup I can take that curve by letting go the gas about 1 second and than flooring it until the 130 degree slow curve. (sorry, don’t know the names of those curves). With the car tuned I couldn’t match that, but I don’t know if I was going slower there because my lap times were better, I should have saved my best laps on both setups to see what was happening, could be the MLSD was pushing me off (oversteer) but I could still have been going faster, anyway that’s just to be picky.So in conclusion, you should retire, no seriously I have trouble finding cars that you have not done replicas off. Great job my friend 👍👍👍, I’ve started testing your Skyline and Civic, but it could be a while before I finish those, I’ve have about 10 cars that I’m tuning and running tests with so until next week when I come and pester you for some info on replicas (citroen 2cv), Take good care of yourself, have a good day.
If you are this good in documenting test laps, crunching numbers, you are even better tuner than me 
, all you need is more tuning hours, get to know the cars and I'm sure your tunes would be close to perfect. For example, the NSX, by using the charts and datas collected, you could build a different version of tune which takes the best part and minimize the weakness, from weight distribution, BB, LSD and suspension.
My last play was quite short, I had a chance to drive the Corvette '96 Grand Sport, and used some datas from my research, it was a nice drive, the car is heavy, but very reactive on the limit. Also managed to build a early base setup for it with 2 different sets of spring rate based on real life spec of different springs used on older models which was stiffer as the C4 gradually gets softer on later years.
I will revisit the Ferrari F40 replica, just got my hand on US spec official documentation ( manual ) 
So, I have to check all of them one by one, convert the toe from minutes to degree correctly. The value changed usually leads to higher toe in, some around 0.50 to 0.70 degrees, which is like in real life ( converted from mm to degree/minutes then to degree ) These are only for real world setup/alignment replicas.
So, when do you think you'll release those Ferrari Replica's? 
) when I write a message. 
