RIDOX Replica Garage-In Memory of TurnLeft-GT40,300ZX,F430,TVR,AEM S2000,Cizeta,TransAm Doug Nash

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If you go to UK 2CV Club, they have more details on the car and mods allowed, up to 49BHP, stock 4 speed, weight savings, roll cage, Toyo tires :



Source : http://www.2cvracing.org.uk/technical/gettingstarted

This is technical regs for UK 24 H races.

2CV 24H also held at Spa, you will need to further research if the tech regs are similar to UK 24H, mainly HP, weight and gearbox rules.

http://www.24h2cv.be/05photosfr.htm

2013 result is available there, the best qualifying time is 3:22.311 running Citreon Dyane run by BNLL2 Team. Race best time is 3:22.791 running Citreon Dyane BNLL Team MIKO. Try to build the car in GT6 and run it at CH first, see if you can post similar lap times :P
You're a walking encyclopedia of information! Well done :) 👍
Standard gearbox of the 2CV in GT6 is only good for around 100km/h before it hits the mechanical rev limiter so, unless PD have created their own gear ratios I can see this creating problems with a 100% replica.
I imagine the climb out of Eau Rouge up to Les Combes must be something like 25% of the overall laptime :lol:
 
You're a walking encyclopedia of information! Well done :) 👍
Standard gearbox of the 2CV in GT6 is only good for around 100km/h before it hits the mechanical rev limiter so, unless PD have created their own gear ratios I can see this creating problems with a 100% replica.
I imagine the climb out of Eau Rouge up to Les Combes must be something like 25% of the overall laptime :lol:

:lol: Slow can be fun on a endurance race, where the drama is at the pits and getting sleepy at night :D

I have updated/posted the Paul Cain BMW 3002 TTii, the replica also posted at Clueless garage :P Enjoy guys, will update the Focus ST 2013 ( very nice to drive, I tried my best to simulate real car handling based on reviews and tech docs ) and Yaris RS Turbo TRD later.

Paul Cain BMW 3002 TTii Replica

Tuned to replicate Paul Cain BMW 3002 TTii

Comfort Soft to Sport Medium




CAR : BMW 2002 Turbo '73
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Medium


Specs - BMW 330i 2001 3.0i M54B30 DUAL VANOS Engine with Twin KKK Turbo
Horsepower: 372 HP at 6700 RPM
Torque : 320.8 ft-lb at 5500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 97.1%
Weight: 1220 kg ( empty fuel + fluids ) or 1243kg ( full tank )
Ballast : 140 kg or 163kg
Ballast Position : -4 ( 50.2% / 49.8% reflected in ballast position )
OPTIONAL Ballast Position : 2 ( for distribution without driver and empty tank )
Weight Distribution : 50 / 50 as the real car spec with driver and full tank ( 50.2% / 49.8% )
OPTIONAL Weight Distribution : 49/51 real car spec without driver and empty tank ( About 0.5% weight shifted rearward )
Performance Points: 483

Specs - BMW 330i 2001 3.0i M54B30 DUAL VANOS Engine with Twin KKK Turbo 450PP Version
Horsepower: 290 HP at 6000 RPM
Torque : 272.7 ft-lb at 5000 RPM
Power Limiter at : 96.4%
Weight: 1220 kg ( empty fuel ) or 1243kg ( full tank )
Ballast : 140 kg or 163kg
Ballast Position : -4 ( 50.2% / 49.8% reflected in ballast position )
OPTIONAL Ballast Position : 2 ( for distribution without driver and empty tank )
Weight Distribution : 50 / 50 as the real car spec with driver and full tank ( 50.2% / 49.8% )
OPTIONAL Weight Distribution : 49/51 real car spec without driver and empty tank ( About 0.5% weight shifted rearward )
Performance Points: 450



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( INSTALLED ) -MANDATORY- the real car has heavily modified chassis and roll cage.
Wheels : BBS-RS in Silver Metallic / Silver Chrome
Car Paint : Nurburgring Blue Metallic from Honda S2000 Type V




Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 3
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter Sports
Intake Tuning
High RPM Range Turbo Kit ( REMOVE for 450PP Version )
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch
Carbon Drive Shaft
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission




Suspension - JEFF IRELAND Tuned Coilover with EIBACH Springs/Bilstein Damper and Custom Track Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 107 127 ( visually replicate the real car stance/height )
Spring Rate: 7.14 5.00
Dampers (Compression): 4 7
Dampers (Extension): 3 7
Anti-Roll Bars: 5 2
Camber Angle: 2.0 1.0
Toe Angle: -0.09 0.18


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - BMW E30 M3 265 GETRAG 5 Speed + BMW E34 M5 Final Drive
Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Auto Max Speed at 300kmh / 186mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.380
2nd 2.200
3rd 1.400
4th 1.000
5th 0.810
Set Final :3.710

Alternate Method :
Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Final To 4.530
Set Auto Max Speed at 220 kmh / 137mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.380
2nd 2.200
3rd 1.400
4th 1.000
5th 0.810
Set Final :3.710


LSD - BMW E34 M5 Quaife Torque Sensing 1.5 Way LSD

Initial Torque : 17
Acceleration Sensitivity: 24
Braking Sensitivity: 13


Brake Balance:
6/8 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/7, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/9 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

This is one of the most challenging replica I ever made, even at the moment of posting, I'm still not satisfied with the handling :P

The car is based on Paul Cain built BMW 3002 TTii, a 2002 Turbo undergoing modern transformation.

First, the engine was swapped for bigger size with more power, more efficient, lighter and more advanced in technology. A Dual VANOS 6 Cylinder M54B30 engine from BMW 330i 2001 model. To make more power, yes, Mr Paul Cain craved for more power to humiliate the poor folks who look down on the old banger at the lights. He added 2 KKK turbocharger, a TT package that runs on mild boost of 6-8 Psi, but capable of producing 335HP at the wheel - that translate to 370+HP at the crank with 10% loss on the driveline :eek: He reckons that with lower compression, upgraded pistons, the M54 engine will spit out close to 485HP, possibly at the crank with 12 Psi boost :bowdown:

To accommodate that much power, the chassis, driveline and suspension needs some serious make over. The BMW received extensive weigh saving, chassis strengthening, custom wheel hubs, custom suspension linkages, custom sub frames, and special custom roll cage for safety and added rigidity. The real car wet weight ( no driver + full fluid ) at 2740lb / 1243kg. The BMW 3002 TTii has 8 US gallons fuel tank positioned at the rear axle ( half of original tank ), I have calculated weight at 1220kg without fuel and fluids. I also have included a variety of ballast + position. The car with driver and full fluids ( fuel and oil ) has 50.2% / 49.8% distribution, this is reflected in the ballast position of -4. Without driver, 1220kg, the distribution should shift rear ward at about 0.5%, reflected in ballast position of 2 ( 49/51 ).

The suspension is custom built by Jeff Ireland, employing Eibach Race Springs and custom valved Bilstein Damper all around. The spring rate is unknown, so I have to give my personal touch, with handling aimed at good balance, the real car is said to have almost no understeer / neutral turn in at low to medium speed. Ride height has also been visually replicated, with lower front to achieve level appearance like the real car.
I have tuned the damper and ARB to maintain balance on low speed, while medium speed needs good throttle control, while the real car has good handling even at higher speed. This is hard to achieve consistently, as the BMW 2002 Turbo in GT6 has stock skinny tires, while the real car has much wider 17" 7.5" wide front and 8.5" rear tires ( Michelin Pilot Sport ). Nevertheless, the replica should handle well on comfort soft with good throttle control :)

The transmission is another part that needs serious attention, a 5 speed Getrag 265 from E30 BMW M3 is used, with final drive at 3.710 taken from E34 BMW M5. The gearing is perfectly matched to the car engine, giving good acceleration and decent top speed. I have included 2 methods to achieve the ratio, both gives the same result, feel free to try them both and pick one that you prefer.

The LSD is torque sensing Quaife 1.5 way with 25% lock on preload taken from E34 BMW M5. The LSD is tuned to give stability on low to medium speed.

I have also provided a 450PP power figure spec, simply remove the high rpm turbo kit and adjust power limiter accordingly. I also highly recommend to fit sports hard or sports medium if you have hard time with throttle control.

The BMW 3002 TTii was tuned and tested at Tsukuba, Silverstone GP, Red Bull Ring, and SSR7 :P At Silverstone GP, with Comfort Soft tires, stock 4 speed, 370+HP, 1220kg, -4 ballast, it managed 2:30s :eek: A good time for such an old vintage car. I have included the replay for your enjoyment and reference, witness how smooth the BMW 3002 TTii carving the track :D something about old vintage look graciously eating up corners that never gets old.







 
If you go to UK 2CV Club, they have more details on the car and mods allowed, up to 49BHP, stock 4 speed, weight savings, roll cage, Toyo tires :



Source : http://www.2cvracing.org.uk/technical/gettingstarted

This is technical regs for UK 24 H races.

2CV 24H also held at Spa, you will need to further research if the tech regs are similar to UK 24H, mainly HP, weight and gearbox rules.

http://www.24h2cv.be/05photosfr.htm

2013 result is available there, the best qualifying time is 3:22.311 running Citreon Dyane run by BNLL2 Team. Race best time is 3:22.791 running Citreon Dyane BNLL Team MIKO. Try to build the car in GT6 and run it at CH first, see if you can post similar lap times :P
:bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:
 
The Focus ST 2013 has been posted/updated. Try to beat the Randy Pobst record at Laguna Seca on CM tires :P

FORD Focus ST 2013 Replica

Tuned to replicate Focus ST 2013

Comfort Medium




CAR : Ford Focus ST '13
Tire : Comfort Medium


Specs
Horsepower: 252 HP at 5300 RPM
Torque : 267.8 ft-lb at 2500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 92.5%
Weight: 1462 kg
Ballast : 191 kg
Ballast Position : -50
Weight Distribution : 60 / 40 as the real car spec when tested.
Performance Points: 431


GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock
Car Paint : White or Orange or Blue




Tuning Parts Installed :
Intake Tuning
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Weight Reduction Stage 2


Suspension - Ford Factory ST Tuned Springs Ratio + Damper with
ST Tuned Street/Track Alignment Range

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 120 120
Spring Rate: 4.77 5.11
Dampers (Compression): 5 4
Dampers (Extension): 6 8
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 3
Camber Angle: 1.3 2.0 ( Front camber : -1.30 +- 0.30, Rear Camber : -2.00+-0.00 )
Toe Angle: 0.10 0.16 ( Front Toe In : 0.10 +- 0.15, Rear Toe In : 0.16 +- 0.56 )

OPTIONAL Factory Street Alignment :
Front
Camber ( Driver Side ) : -0.83 +- 0.75
Camber ( Passenger Side ) : -0.93 +- 0.75
Total Toe In : 0.20 +- 0.20

Rear
Camber : -1.35 +- 0.75
Total Toe In : 0.38 +- 0.20


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Corrected Stock GETRAG MMT6 Dual Output Shaft Ratio with 4.063 Final
Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Auto Max Speed at 280kmh / 174mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.231
2nd 1.952
3rd 1.321
4th 1.029
5th 0.821 - Actual Ratio : 1.129 with 2nd final drive 2.955
6th 0.685 - Actual Ratio : 0.943 with 2nd final drive 2.955
Set Final :4.063



LSD - Traction Control Based Front Brake and Torque Vectoring Electronic LSD

Initial Torque : 15
Acceleration Sensitivity: 23
Braking Sensitivity: 5


Brake Balance:
7/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/8, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/10 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

The Ford Focus ST 2013 is one of the car in GT6 that is a stat disaster :lol:, wrong weight distribution, torque figure, spring rate too high and broken gearing.

For this replica, I made a corrected version, not really perfect, but as close as possible replicating the real car.

The Ford Focus ST 2013 has 270lb-ft torque, while in GT6 stock value is too low, I have installed intake tuning to get closer at 267.8ft-lb. Power limiter used to get 252HP stock value. Now, onto the weight distribution, the real car has 60/40 distribution, GT6 once again wrong, so I installed weight reduction stage 2 and put some ballast at -50 to get the proper distribution. Curb weight officially at 3223lbs / 1462kg.

For suspension, the stock spring rate is too high in GT6, and the real life stock value can't be reached ( not low enough on GT6 ). I chose to use the spring ratio instead and set the lowest possible spring rate on GT6.
The real car has 30N/mm or 171lb/in spring rate at the front and 32N/mm or 183lb/in spring rate at the rear, based on Ford Official documentation, but when tested by well respected suspension company, the actual rates are =

Front : 29N/mm or 166lb/in
Rear : 31N/mm or 177lb/in

Slightly lower than official stats.

For GT6, I used 4.77kg/mm or 267lb/in spring rate at the front and 5.11kg/mm or 286lb/in spring rate at the rear. This retains stock spring rate ratio, and I have tuned the damper and ARB to maintain balance similar to real life review, nimble with surgical precision while still can bite back on the limit.

I have also used Ford factory alignment ( camber and toe ), the alignment value used is recommended value by ST experts, while for daily driving factory alignment range are as below ( OPTIONAL ) :

Front
Camber ( Driver Side ) : -0.83 +- 0.75
Camber ( Passenger Side ) : -0.93 +- 0.75
Total Toe In : 0.20 +- 0.20

Rear
Camber : -1.35 +- 0.75
Total Toe In : 0.38 +- 0.20

The overall range of values are similar, but the one used on this replica offers better performance at the track.

Gearbox is another one that needs fixing, the real car uses Getrag MMT6 with dual output shaft which result in 2 different final drive, 4.063 final drive for the 1st to 4th gear, while 5th and 6th uses 2.955.
GT6 incorrectly set the 5th and 6th, which result on overly long gearing and useless. I have set the 5th and 6th with calculated effective ratio when 4.063 is used instead, this will replicate real life vehicle speed at max engine speed on all gears from 1st to 6th.

For LSD, I have setup in conjunction with brake balance to achieve similar effect to real life electronic based LSD and torque vectoring as well as cornering understeer control. I have use low preload and medium lock rate to give some locking action which reduce inside wheel spin and give some stability on mid corner, while the rear bias brake balance will help to give illusion of brake based system at the rear axle.

The real Focus ST uses several electronic system in synergy to maintain handling balance under heavy cornering, there's no mechanical parts that acts like limited slip differential. First is the brake based LSD, which relies on traction control system to maintain traction by applying brake pressure on each front wheel to reduce understeer. The Enhanced Torque Vectoring Control and Cornering Understeer Control work hand in hand on both front and rear axle to maintain balance, encourage oversteer, apply inside and outside brake pressure according situation. With trail braking, the Focus ST can be easily shifted to oversteer on entry, up to certain degree. When the car is really pushed hard at track pace, the brake based system is proven not really reliable, often resulting in overheated brake after several hot laps. When this happens, heavy understeer will slowly creep in which will show the Focus ST true colors.

Here is a quote from Randy Pobst on his experience at hot lapping the Focus ST at Laguna Seca MotorTrend Best Driver's Car 2013 :


The hot-shoe's take: "It was enjoyable while it was drifting, but once something changed when everything got good and heated up, it became just an understeerer and it lost that terrific entry rotation that it had originally."

Several tests review also shown that after several laps, the Focus ST tend to lose it's charm and starts to understeer as the braking performance reduced due to heat build up in the system.

I mainly tested the car at Tsukuba, Big Willow and Laguna Seca. At Laguna Seca, it can easily lap in 1:48s on comfort medium. The Best Driver's Car lap record is 1:49.30, driven by Pro Driver Randy Pobst ( MotorTrend )



Below I also provided a picture with detailed gearing and speed stat for the Getrag MMT6 on the Focus ST 2013, and a replay of the run at Laguna Seca for comparison to Randy Pobst lap :P

Watch it, to find out the similarity and difference in cornering as well as speed at braking points. Drive the Focus ST replica at Big Willow and Laguna Seca and hopefully you'll find pleasure like I do.



View attachment 228860
 
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The Focus ST 2013 has been posted/updated. Try to beat the Randy Pobst record at Laguna Seca on CM tires :P

Good job,tested this car against GT6 "stock" ST and it's 0,8s faster than it on SSR5 Clubman and 6 seconds on Sierra second sector .

Now I'm waiting for your BTCC 8 tune
 
Toyota YARIS RS Turbo '02 TRD Street Pack 450PP

Special Build Yaris RS Turbo tuned with TRD S Pack 450PP

Comfort Soft to Sports Medium


list_vitz-f.jpg



CAR : Toyota Yaris RS Turbo (J) '02
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Medium


Specs
Horsepower: 231 HP at 6000 RPM
Torque : 207.8 ft-lb at 5800 RPM
Power Limiter at : 99%
Weight: 910 kg
Ballast : 14 kg
Ballast Position : -50
Weight Distribution : 61 / 39 as the real car spec, close to 62/38
Performance Points: 450



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock or +1 Inch Up BOYD Coddington Wheels LEGACY F-09 in Bronze
Car Paint :Red


Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 2
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Sports
High RPM Range Turbo Kit
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Weight Reduction Stage 1
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Window Weight Reduction



Suspension - TRD S Package Coilover Fixed Damper Rate with Factory Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 100 100
Spring Rate: 2.40 2.79
Dampers (Compression): 4 2
Dampers (Extension): 10 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 6
Camber Angle: 0.9 1.8 ( Front Camber 0.17+-0.75, Rear Camber 0.95+-0.75 )
Toe Angle: 0.07 -0.05 ( Toe In Front : 0.15+-0.22, Toe In Rear : 0.28+-0.33 )



LSD - 1 Way TRD Helical LSD

Initial Torque : 17
Acceleration Sensitivity: 20
Braking Sensitivity: 5


Brake Balance:
7/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/8, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/10 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

The Yaris RS Turbo in this build is a moderate modified setup at 450PP, utilizing TRD parts.
Weight distribution at 61/39 with some weight saving employed.

Suspension is based on TRD Street Pack Coilover with Fixed Rate Damper, the spring rate are quite soft but gives good natural balance, with stiffer roll bar to reduce body roll under extreme load.

LSD is based on TRD 1 Way Helical LSD, this ensure good stability and traction even at tight turns.

Gearing remains stock as I felt for the power and speed, the gear ratio spread is quite good with decent top speed. The Yaris RS Turbo TRD is best suited to low to medium speed track.

I tuned and tested at Tsukuba, Red Bull Ring Short, Nurburgring GP/D and Autumn Ring. At Tsukuba, with CS tire, the 450 PP Yaris RS Turbo can easily lap in 1:06s and 1:31s at Autumn Ring.



UPDATE : Fixed toe values :)

 
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Good job,tested this car against GT6 "stock" ST and it's 0,8s faster than it on SSR5 Clubman and 6 seconds on Sierra second sector .

Now I'm waiting for your BTCC 8 tune

I will post the other 3 Focus ST replica on my next play ( 2014 MY - same as 2013 :lol:, Fortune Auto tuned Focus ST and the BTCC GTP League Tuned Focus used by one of the team )

If time permits, I will also posts SP Engineering Gallardo SL LP570-4, H&R Audi R8 GT, a GT4 car or Ferrari 512BB Real World Setup Replica ( this 512BB is for experienced driver, also good for MR driver training )
 
I have updated/posted both Yaris RS Turbo 400PP and 450PP, both are agile around corners :P

Toyota YARIS RS Turbo '02 TRD Street Pack 400PP

Special Build Yaris RS Turbo tuned with TRD S Pack 400PP

Comfort Medium to Sports Medium


list_vitz-f.jpg



CAR : Toyota Yaris RS Turbo (J) '02
Tire : Comfort Medium to Sports Medium


Specs
Horsepower: 158 HP at 5800 RPM
Torque : 160.4 ft-lb at 4400 RPM
Power Limiter at : 96.2%
Weight: 910 kg
Ballast : 14 kg
Ballast Position : -50
Weight Distribution : 61 / 39 as the real car spec, close to 62/38
Performance Points: 400



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock or +1 Inch Up BOYD Coddington Wheels LEGACY F-09 in Bronze
Car Paint :Red



Tuning Parts Installed :
Semi Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter Sports
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Weight Reduction Stage 1
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Window Weight Reduction



Suspension - TRD S Package Coilover Fixed Damper Rate with Factory Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 100 100
Spring Rate: 2.40 2.79
Dampers (Compression): 4 2
Dampers (Extension): 10 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 6
Camber Angle: 0.9 1.8 ( Front Camber 0.17+-0.75, Rear Camber 0.95+-0.75 )
Toe Angle: 0.37 0.00 ( Toe In Front : 0.15+-0.22, Toe In Rear : 0.28+-0.33 )


LSD - 1 Way TRD Helical LSD

Initial Torque : 17
Acceleration Sensitivity: 20
Braking Sensitivity: 5


Brake Balance:
7/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/8, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/10 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

The Yaris RS Turbo in this build is a mild modified setup at 400PP, utilizing TRD parts.
Weight distribution at 61/39 with some weight saving employed.

Suspension is based on TRD Street Pack Coilover with Fixed Rate Damper, the spring rate are quite soft but gives good natural balance, with stiffer roll bar to reduce body roll under extreme load.

LSD is based on TRD 1 Way Helical LSD, this ensure good stability and traction even at tight turns.

Gearing remains stock as I felt for the power and speed, the gear ratio spread is quite good with decent top speed. The Yaris RS Turbo TRD is best suited to low to medium speed track.

I tuned and tested at Tsukuba, Red Bull Ring Short, Nurburgring GP/D and Autumn Ring. At Tsukuba, with CM tire, the 400 PP Yaris RS Turbo can easily lap in 1:10s.






Toyota YARIS RS Turbo '02 TRD Street Pack 450PP

Special Build Yaris RS Turbo tuned with TRD S Pack 450PP

Comfort Soft to Sports Medium


list_vitz-f.jpg



CAR : Toyota Yaris RS Turbo (J) '02
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Medium


Specs
Horsepower: 231 HP at 6000 RPM
Torque : 207.8 ft-lb at 5800 RPM
Power Limiter at : 99%
Weight: 910 kg
Ballast : 14 kg
Ballast Position : -50
Weight Distribution : 61 / 39 as the real car spec, close to 62/38
Performance Points: 450



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED )
Wheels : Stock or +1 Inch Up BOYD Coddington Wheels LEGACY F-09 in Bronze
Car Paint :Red


Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 2
Sports Computer
Racing Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Sports
High RPM Range Turbo Kit
Fully Customizable Suspension
Adjustable LSD
Twin Plate Clutch
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Weight Reduction Stage 1
Carbon Hood ( Body Color )
Window Weight Reduction



Suspension - TRD S Package Coilover Fixed Damper Rate with Factory Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 100 100
Spring Rate: 2.40 2.79
Dampers (Compression): 4 2
Dampers (Extension): 10 5
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 6
Camber Angle: 0.9 1.8 ( Front Camber 0.17+-0.75, Rear Camber 0.95+-0.75 )
Toe Angle: 0.37 0.00 ( Toe In Front : 0.15+-0.22, Toe In Rear : 0.28+-0.33 )



LSD - 1 Way TRD Helical LSD

Initial Torque : 17
Acceleration Sensitivity: 20
Braking Sensitivity: 5


Brake Balance:
7/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 5/8, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/10 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

The Yaris RS Turbo in this build is a moderate modified setup at 450PP, utilizing TRD parts.
Weight distribution at 61/39 with some weight saving employed.

Suspension is based on TRD Street Pack Coilover with Fixed Rate Damper, the spring rate are quite soft but gives good natural balance, with stiffer roll bar to reduce body roll under extreme load.

LSD is based on TRD 1 Way Helical LSD, this ensure good stability and traction even at tight turns.

Gearing remains stock as I felt for the power and speed, the gear ratio spread is quite good with decent top speed. The Yaris RS Turbo TRD is best suited to low to medium speed track.

I tuned and tested at Tsukuba, Red Bull Ring Short, Nurburgring GP/D and Autumn Ring. At Tsukuba, with CS tire, the 450 PP Yaris RS Turbo can easily lap in 1:06s and 1:31s at Autumn Ring.








The Ferrari 512BB is so much fun to drive :P I love the cockpit sound even with stock exhaust ... missed the old days in GT5, when I built 600+HP Twin Turbo 512BB, whoossh !!! :lol:

Autumn Ring_10.jpg

Autumn Ring_8.jpg
 
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BEE Racing NISSAN Skyline R32 GTR '89 400PS

Tuned to replicate BEE Racing R32 GTR
Comfort Soft to Sport Soft



CAR : Nissan Skyline R32 GTR '89
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Soft


Specs
Horsepower: 400 PS at 6900 RPM
Torque: 347.2 ft-lb at 4900 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1500 kg
Ballast : 199 kg
Ballast Position : -32
Weight Distribution : 58/42 as in real life spec
Performance Points: 485


GT AUTO
Oil Change
Improve Body Rigidity ( Optional ) - there's no bad side effect of this, highly recommended - NOT INSTALLED in this build
Wheels : +2 Inch Up - RAYS TE37SL in Silver
Car Paint : Steel Silver


Tuning Parts Installed :
Sports Computer
Sports Exhaust
Catalytic Converter Sports
Intake Tuning
Twin Plate Clutch Kit
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Torque Distributing Center Differential
Weight Reduction Stage 1


LSD - NISMO GT PRO CARBON - optimal low preload
FRONT 1.5 way

Initial Torque : 25
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 5

REAR 2 way
Initial Torque : 11
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 30


Torque Distributing Center Differential
Front/Rear Torque Split : 30:70


Suspension -BUDDY CLUB Racing Spec Coil Over
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 90 90
Spring Rate: 11.84 9.86
Dampers (Compression): 5 2
Dampers (Extension): 4 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 2 3
Camber Angle: 2.9 1.3
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.14



Brake Balance :
7/10 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 7/10, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 7/10 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :


With limited information about the 400PS Bee R R32 GTR, I made this replica :) The suspension is based on Buddy Club Rspec Coilover Damper Kit, with originally 12kg/10kg spring rate, I adapted lower value as max spring rate in GT6 is lower. The damper is tuned for compliance with the LSD ( Nismo GT Pro Carbon ).

The LSD is unique in this build, 1.5 way up front and 2 way rear with low preload calculated based on torque distribution. The car requires skilled driver to be both smooth with the brakes and aggressive with steering on turn in and exit.

Trail braking is essential on lower speed corner, be ready to brake hard and deep - eased off the brake when the speed drop down, don't be scared to lock up the front tire, you'll be surprised how much you can brake with this car. Explore the possibilities, enjoy :cheers:

Tuned and tested at Bathurst, Brands Hatch GP, Willow Springs, Apricot Hill, Stowe and Tsukuba. Able to lap Brands Hatch GP below 1:45 on comfort soft easily. Beware, she'll bite hard if not careful when power oversteering out of a corner :D


Update : Front LSD has been fixed, I made a mistake with braking and acceleration sensitivity.

UPDATE 1.09 : Fixed weight distribution to real life spec at 58/42 ( ballast value and position changed ) - was 54/46 stock, now more front heavy as it should be, added weight reduction stage 1. Tweaked suspension, mainly damper.

Tested at Grand Valley Speedway as requested by a friend on SS tire, managed 2:04s on 1st lap on cold tires and yellow oil ( power at reduced 387HP and big fat 1500kg :eek: ) Some slow cornering included - going wide at 1st turn and at the tunnel :lol: A good lap would be in low 2:03s or high 2:02s :bowdown: Nice pace for a street spec BEE R replica :D SS tire = hard slick, the chassis felt a bit soft for the immense grip from the tire


I have revisited the Bee R R32 GTR replica, some fixes ( weight distribution - now more front heavy and realistic :mischievous: ) and test run was completed. Give this one some laps and smile :cool:

Tested at Grand Valley Speedway as requested by a friend on SS tire ( he wanted to win a bet :sly: ), managed 2:04s on 1st lap on cold tires and yellow oil ( power at reduced 387HP and big fat 1500kg :eek: ) Some slow cornering included - going wide at 1st turn and at the tunnel :lol: A good lap would be in low 2:03s or high 2:02s :bowdown: Nice pace for a street spec BEE R replica :D SS tire = hard slick, the chassis felt a bit soft for the immense grip from the tire.
 
Oooh! If my vote counts for anything, and I know that it doesn't, I say post the Ferrari 512BB before the Lambo, if you don't have time to do both. I've been driving it bone stock lately and would love to see what your interpretation of the 512BB is. Plus, we did just get the regular Gallardo Superleggera recently. I don't want to buy another Gallardo. LOL!
 
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Oooh! If my vote counts for anything, and I know that it doesn't, I say post the Ferrari 512BB before the Lambo, if you don't have time to do both. I've been driving it bone stock lately and would love to see what you're interpretation of the 512BB is. Plus, we did just get the regular Gallardo Superleggera recently. I don't want to buy another Gallardo. LOL!

The Ferrari 512BB is scary :sly:, I think you will be if you know what tire it came with to replicate real life factory tire grip level :P. It was tested at Streets of Willow and able to post decent lap time. The 512BB is as close as I can get to real car spec ( stock ), from weight ( without fuel Euro Spec ) - there's alternative dry weight without any fluids, distribution, spring rate ratio ( real car is too low :grumpy: ). Another Italian Supercar replica was built as companion, the Countach LP400, same recipe :lol:
 
The Focus ST 2013 has been posted/updated. Try to beat the Randy Pobst record at Laguna Seca on CM tires :P

Nicely tuned R, took me a lap or 2 to get the feel but it has nice steering characteristics and handles beautifully. Still not quite as quick as Randy.......yet! I have posted 139.8xx thus far. Had a few hundreds up before I turned off my dying PS3 but blew it on the last corner with poor entry. Anyway more time to throw at it tomorrow.
 
Nicely tuned R, took me a lap or 2 to get the feel but it has nice steering characteristics and handles beautifully. Still not quite as quick as Randy.......yet! I have posted 139.8xx thus far. Had a few hundreds up before I turned off my dying PS3 but blew it on the last corner with poor entry. Anyway more time to throw at it tomorrow.

139.8xx, :eek: over ten seconds faster than Randy :sly: :lol: I know, it should be 1:49.8xx right, that's only half a second from 1:49.3 :D

For the 2014 Focus ST, it's the same car as 2013, minus some interior updates / cosmetic changes :P, but I will be posting it with another real life vs GT6 lap time, same driver - Randy Pobst, this time he drove it at another American track :P
 
honda cr-z@'10 drive train needs work

Could you elaborate ? Do you mean LSD ? The 450PP has low LSD setup 14/20/5. I have posted a 400PP version with alternate suspension and LSD, not sure if this is better for you :

Last week, I had a friend requested for one of my replica to be adapted for 400PP event on SH tire at Nurb GP/D. I spent about 10 minutes testing and made slight changes to fit into 400PP. The car can easily lap in 1:47s range on cold tires, with a best of 1:47.4s on 1st lap during my 10 minutes tweaking/test play :D

The base is the replica above, apply these changes to fit into 400PP and tailored for Nurb GP/D on SH tire. The 400PP version also should be good for racing.



Sports Hard 400PP, Nurb GP/D

J's Racing CRZ Street

Suspension - J's Racing Showa Street Sport Coilover Kit ( -30mm/-30mm maximum drop )
Street Aggressive Alignment

Front, Rear

Ride Height: 130 120
Spring Rate: 2.80 3.90
Dampers (Compression): 7 6
Dampers (Extension): 6 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 2
Camber Angle: 1.5 1.2
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.38

or OPTIONAL ( my personal setup )


Suspension - J's Racing Showa Street Sport Coilover Kit ( -30mm/-30mm maximum drop )
Street Aggressive Alignment


Equal ride height and stiffer front ARB.
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 120 120
Spring Rate: 2.80 3.90
Dampers (Compression): 7 6
Dampers (Extension): 6 3
Anti-Roll Bars: 4 2
Camber Angle: 1.5 1.2
Toe Angle: 0.00 0.38

Transmission
DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Corrected Ratio and Final Gear using '14 model year and 3rd gear set by MFactory
Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Final to 4.294
Use default Auto Max Speed at 270kmh / 168mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.143
2nd 1.870
3rd 1.357
4th 1.054
5th 0.854
6th 0.689
Then Set FINAL to MFactory Close Ratio Final Gear: 4.687

LSD - 1 way J's Racing LSD
Initial Torque : 15
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Remove High RPM Turbo Kit and set engine power limiter at 97.6%

The changes is good for 1:47.4xxs, low 1:13s last sector.
 
well 33/33/11 on 450 try it

That's not the value that I posted :) The initial torque at 33 is too high, the amount of break away torque that high will mean that the LSD will stays locked more than necessary for an FF with such state of tune. Lowering the LSD initial will help reducing understeer, a good range is between 10 to 25. Going below 10 will mean closer to open differential, and less traction + response when accelerating.
 
Is the Shelby 1000 still in the works or is it impossible?

I made a base line setup, too much wheel spin on 1st to 3rd on CS tire :lol:, but still can be driven well, with some care on the go pedal. I read review about the car, and when no TCS used, it will spin the rear wheels on 3rd even when going over 60mph :eek: I have found infos on the suspension :D Torque figure will be too high, but it will be fine.

I may post the Shelby Super Snake after I posted some other cars first.

fr & 4wd 33/33/33 lsd
check out lsd rear end

Could you be more specific ? CRZ 450PP only has optional LSD acceleration at 33 - as in notes and bolded under LSD section, only for higher grip tire - sports tire and have good throttle control.
FR and 4WD LSD 33/33/33 ? Which tune is this from ?
 
There are many different power and weight figure for the Ferrari 512BB :/, the GT6 version is the carb engine, so apparently the early models '76 has 344PS or 340HP, while Ferrari officially stated 380PS in the beginning then changed it to 360PS / 355HP. I will include both power figure. While for weight, I am going to use weight without fuel, a good source leads ( scale value ) to 1460kg value, while another report for Euro 512BB has 1430kg, the lowest dry weight without any fluids is 1400kg from very early model, variances possibly to other fluids, interior options like A/C and audio as well heavier seats. Weight distribution without fuel is the same on all version ( US and Euro ). US DOT in the early 80's approved cars were heavier by about 100lb or more - at about 3500lbs curb weight ( with fuel ). Looks like Wikipedia got them all wrong :lol:

I think I will include 3 weight figure and 2 power figure, don't know how should I post it in one replica post :lol: I have a test run done on 355HP/1460kg, drives quite nice, but didn't put the correct clutch :lol:
 
...I have a test run done on 355HP/1460kg, drives quite nice, but didn't put the correct clutch :lol:
I've been meaning to ask someone, for quite some time now, just what are the actual differences in GT6 between the Two-Plate Clutch and the Three-Plate Clutch. I've read the descriptions that GT6 provides and off the top of my head I want to say that the triple-plate clutch mentions that it might lose rev's on hills, yet 99% of tunes say to use the triple-plate clutch. Now, I can't imagine that someone's lap times are going to be drastically different if the only difference between a tuned car like a Ferrari 458 is the clutch (dual vs. triple).

So, what is your opinion, Ridox, on the differences between the types of clutches in GT6 and what would your rule of thumb be in choosing which one to use?
 
I've been meaning to ask someone, for quite some time now, just what are the actual differences in GT6 between the Two-Plate Clutch and the Three-Plate Clutch. I've read the descriptions that GT6 provides and off the top of my head I want to say that the triple-plate clutch mentions that it might lose rev's on hills, yet 99% of tunes say to use the triple-plate clutch. Now, I can't imagine that someone's lap times are going to be drastically different if the only difference between a tuned car like a Ferrari 458 is the clutch (dual vs. triple).

So, what is your opinion, Ridox, on the differences between the types of clutches in GT6 and what would your rule of thumb be in choosing which one to use?

Normal Clutch vs Twin Plate, the main difference that is easily felt is shift time / response, on some cars with low HP / displacement and/or high compression + often NA, are quite sluggish on shift up with normal single plate clutch when stock. This is very noticeable on 1st to 2nd gear shift. 2nd to 3rd and onwards usually has less hesitation. Twin plate offers quicker shift time and slightly higher acceleration with lighter flywheel, in GT6 we do not have separate flywheel part like in previous GT. Now twin plate and triple plate clutch also includes lighter flywheel in one package.

The triple plate offers the quicker shift time / response, but on lower torque engine, this also might cause the rev/RPM easier to drop when going up on a hill / slope. I believe the difference is very small between twin and triple plate. I usually pick one based on what will the real life car would have, not really often that a car will have triple plate IRL.

You can do simple test at Red Bull Ring, use stock AWD car with low power/torque, Mitsubishi GTO SR '96 ( NA ), put on AT transmission, stop at exit of the last corner of the track, use the left rumble strip as reference for start line. Fit grippy tire like SS or RH for less variation in slip on launch and 1st gear to 2nd gear transition. Use stock clutch and make a note of the trap speed at start/finish line and braking point speed of the 1st left turn or simply the highest speed before you hit the wall going off track :lol:. Try twin and triple plate clutch.

GT6 may have cars with incorrect stock clutch type, Ferrari 512BB is one example :)
 
Thank you, @Ridox2JZGTE! I knew you would provide an informative answer. You truly are a teacher of Gran Turismo tuning. (Now would be an awesome time for a gong to be rung hehe). Seriously...Thanks! I've been wondering for quite some time. In your professional opinion, what do you make of the comments that are written in the in-game description of the clutches? Particularly, where it mentions the Triple Plate Clutch might lose revs in uphill sections.

Like I stated in my original question to you, I see that in the vast majority of tunes posted by respected tuners Triple Plate clutch is selected and it is the more expensive option. This is a perfect example of what I think Gran Turismo needs to change about "tuning" in future games. If you're going to offer us two choices of a clutch they should each have pro's & con's. If they're 99.9% similar in overall performance but one is 1,000 credits more than the other -- 99.9% of the time people are going to choose the "better" clutch because 1,000 credits is a drop in the bucket when most of us have tens of millions of credits.

If the clutches each have some differences in pro's & con's you'll get more true customization. Are you racing on a track with lots of gear changes? Use clutch A because it provides quicker shift times, but be prepared for more slippage if there are uphill sections and maybe it can wear out in longer races or something. Whereas clutch B might not provide as quick of shift times, but you get no slippage and its more durable. I don't know if those are completely accurate possibilities from a clutch, but you get my point. There has got to be something that can be characteristically different between types of clutches that make each time ideal for certain situations.

That brings me to another overall problem I have with tuning in Gran Turismo. Parts should break down. Especially based on how much you beat on your cars. When I watch Top Driver replays during Seasonal Events I often see very unrealistic pounding on cars, as in the engine spends a significant period of time in the red line. Drivers are downshifting at such speed and bouncing off rev limiters (that don't even exist on many of the cars in the game) and should be blowing engines over time based on how they're being driven. Clutches should have to be replaced. It would be very easy to add a percentage meter to see how much life is left in the clutch and performance should drop a little bit when engines/clutches/tires/etc aren't at peak strength. It's so funny that you buy a set of tires and they last forever (or at least your supply does on the rare chance you get a race where you have to change them).

What are your thoughts and ideas on how Gran Turismo could change to make tuning more fun/realistic/challenging in the future? Surely, you must have many thoughts on this subject. I would love to hear them.
 
Thank you, @Ridox2JZGTE! I knew you would provide an informative answer. You truly are a teacher of Gran Turismo tuning. (Now would be an awesome time for a gong to be rung hehe). Seriously...Thanks! I've been wondering for quite some time. In your professional opinion, what do you make of the comments that are written in the in-game description of the clutches? Particularly, where it mentions the Triple Plate Clutch might lose revs in uphill sections.

Like I stated in my original question to you, I see that in the vast majority of tunes posted by respected tuners Triple Plate clutch is selected and it is the more expensive option. This is a perfect example of what I think Gran Turismo needs to change about "tuning" in future games. If you're going to offer us two choices of a clutch they should each have pro's & con's. If they're 99.9% similar in overall performance but one is 1,000 credits more than the other -- 99.9% of the time people are going to choose the "better" clutch because 1,000 credits is a drop in the bucket when most of us have tens of millions of credits.

If the clutches each have some differences in pro's & con's you'll get more true customization. Are you racing on a track with lots of gear changes? Use clutch A because it provides quicker shift times, but be prepared for more slippage if there are uphill sections and maybe it can wear out in longer races or something. Whereas clutch B might not provide as quick of shift times, but you get no slippage and its more durable. I don't know if those are completely accurate possibilities from a clutch, but you get my point. There has got to be something that can be characteristically different between types of clutches that make each time ideal for certain situations.

That brings me to another overall problem I have with tuning in Gran Turismo. Parts should break down. Especially based on how much you beat on your cars. When I watch Top Driver replays during Seasonal Events I often see very unrealistic pounding on cars, as in the engine spends a significant period of time in the red line. Drivers are downshifting at such speed and bouncing off rev limiters (that don't even exist on many of the cars in the game) and should be blowing engines over time based on how they're being driven. Clutches should have to be replaced. It would be very easy to add a percentage meter to see how much life is left in the clutch and performance should drop a little bit when engines/clutches/tires/etc aren't at peak strength. It's so funny that you buy a set of tires and they last forever (or at least your supply does on the rare chance you get a race where you have to change them).

What are your thoughts and ideas on how Gran Turismo could change to make tuning more fun/realistic/challenging in the future? Surely, you must have many thoughts on this subject. I would love to hear them.

:P Not really an expert GT tuner, at least from my tuning shootout result will say, there are a few who deserved that name here simply because of rep and being a tuner since GT5 :lol: I prefer to make realistic cars, even if it means harder to drive and unpopular. It seems that easy to drive car ( most likely unrealistic from tune and handling perspective ) is the the only way to be a "top" tuner. FF,FR, AWD, MR and RR are tuned to drive as close as possible to each other, less understeer, less oversteer, running low value LSD - close to open diff. It's a shame that people who drive in GT choose to be farther away from realistic experience and drive cars that do not handle like it should anymore in the chase of lap time. The currently running Ford FITT event is a good example, the Focus ST at London Reverse, I doubt any of the car entered will drive like an FF would :( I'm also taking a break from FITT events, they don't offer much variety of feedback due to the low number of testers ( same old :lol: )

For your question, the in game description is not really accurate, some of it should be for racing flywheel. PD have combined together flywheel and clutch as a pair. Losing speed on uphill is realistic, on a lower powered cars with low torque spread ( peak at mid or high rpm only ), installing a very light flywheel will have some negative effect. The throttle response will be much better as the engine will have much easier time to rev ( less weight to rotate ), as well as shift time/response ( engine rev drops quicker when shifting - off throttle, either shift up or down/heel toe), but when going on steep elevation and on heavier cars, there will be some loss in speed. GT6 sometimes do not give enough difference in speed on certain situation ( power / weight / road condition ) Have you tried stock/twin/triple clutch on stock FF like Honda Civic at Spa ? You should notice it at the up hill after Eau Rouge, the Civic has peaky torque curve, running high gear and too light of a flywheel up hill is not good :D

In real life, very light flywheel is not always the answer for any situation, too light will result bog down on launch when used on smaller engine ( less torque ) with sticky tires. Flywheel directly related to engine inertia, so if the car also has tall gearing and considerable weight, running too light will be bad - less inertia. GT6 do not differentiate how light a flywheel is ( at least not shown on the tune page ) ... maybe those who have clutch + wheel can feel the effect easier when going off the line and shifting gears.

IRL, ultra light flywheel requires extra care / delicate operation of the clutch when launching, the effects it at it's best on lower gears where the inertia is higher. On higher gears, the benefits start to lessened and the cons started to appear when there are steep hills. Engine revs also drop much quicker, this requires extra care on the driver when part or off throttle on shifting down or up when going up on a hill. Up hill starts also will be tricky to avoid stalls :lol:

For engine + driveline wear and tear + damage, I have also been wanting this simulated in GT, no need to simulate the expenses to fix them, simply restore the car when exiting the track for wear, and maybe 500 credits for engine rebuild :P You will have the burnt out clutch, crunching / broken gears, overheated engine, tire blown out, broken suspension, when on track if driving like a madman, but once you exit, the car is as good as new again, except if it has substantial engine damage. This will be great to pair with the added 1.12 external pod meters ( water, oil temp, volts etc ) They will have some purpose other than cosmetic.
 
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