Rigidity refresh and rollcage on a used car?

  • Thread starter Dracwolley
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Dracwolley
I just got all the black beauties a couple of days back, with all those miles already squeezed on them and all the suspension wear already done to them.

I want them to handle well, meaning, I want to install those parts in the thread subject, but If I install the refresh, does it make my chassis good as new immediately, without even taking it on the asphalt once? If I just install it, My car will be good as new and if I install the rollcage, it'll lock my chassis in that fixed-up position? Or will I have to drive the car first with the refresher plan on in order to have it in that "good" position so I can install the rollcage? Or do I have to keep installing the rigidity refresher time and time again until I just think it's right?

Thanks for the help guys, and I did use the search function. I there is another thread like this, excuse me then...
 
I haven't really experimented with this myself, but I believe the conventional wisdom is that you NEED to do the chassis refresh first before installing the cage, because installing the cage locks the chassis at the current values, good or bad. If this is actually true or not, I don't know. However, it's been discussed.

That being said, the black beauties already ARE race cars and therefore probably can't get the rollcage installed anyway.
 
That being said, the black beauties already ARE race cars and therefore probably can't get the rollcage installed anyway.
I never thought I'd see the day on which I'd argue with a mod... but sorry Duke, that claim is rubbish. Race cars definitely can have the rollcage installed, I have one on my Pescarolo and another on my WedsSport Celica.

On the topic, yes, first install the Rigidity Refresh. After that I'd suggest taking the car to a spin to determine if the rollcage is even needed, in some cases it can make the car understeer a lot more. Once installed, it can't be taken off so make a wise decision and you'll do fine. 👍

Oh, and you don't have to do the refresher for several times, one refresh will make it good as new. It will also take effect immediately, no "wear-in" runs needed. The rollcage is not a magic thing that prevents the chassis from wearing out but it can keep it in better shape for a longer period, being useful in the endurance races. You will still have to refresh the car every now and then.

- R -
 
Oh, and you don't have to do the refresher for several times, one refresh will make it good as new. It will also take effect immediately, no "wear-in" runs needed. The rollcage is not a magic thing that prevents the chassis from wearing out but it can keep it in better shape for a longer period, being useful in the endurance races. You will still have to refresh the car every now and then.

- R -


always do the rigidity refresher when it becomes available. yea it costs a a good chunk of change but the differences in the car are amazing. Roll cage... essential if you're doing long endurance races ( 2hr + ). Heading into hour 10 of the ring i noticed my Viper GTS getting super sloppy in the turns and harder to control. Refreshed the Rigidity, put in a roll cage, felt better than new. Still enough power in the car to instigate oversteer so cornering wasn't effected at all.
 
Once you've done the rigidity refresh you can't do it again right away anyway. Once it has a checkmark on it, you can't buy it again until the checkmark is gone. It seems to last around 200-800 miles depending on the car, most commonly I believe around 400 miles.
 
Ouch, I think I got a bit misunderstood when I said that the refresher doesn't have to be applied several times... I meant several times in a row. Naturally it has to be applied every time the car wears down.

- R -
 
As to the roll cage causing understeer in some cars.

I used to think that this was a somewhat misleading thing for PD to have put in the items scroll text ... then I fitted one to my Audi TT I'd been using in it's manufacturers championship. That's the only time I've seen a marked change for the worse in a cars handling by spending 30,000cr on it :eek:!.

From that experience, I've become wary of putting the rollcage on 4WD and FF cars - a once bitten twice shy situation :D. One of these days I'll have to put aside the time to do some proper experimenting on this ...
 
I think I might not do anything to those cars. With the Mazda 787B I can go around corners at 170 mph because of the tremendous oversteer, NOT on the test course either. :D
 
As to the roll cage causing understeer in some cars.

I used to think that this was a somewhat misleading thing for PD to have put in the items scroll text ... then I fitted one to my Audi TT I'd been using in it's manufacturers championship. That's the only time I've seen a marked change for the worse in a cars handling by spending 30,000cr on it :eek:!
But that car already has terminal understeer. It can't understeer any more, even if it tried.

The Roll Cage is never necessary IMO, it made my Nissan R92CP handle terrible, and unpredictable. Same for the TVR Speed 12. I don't think there's any point to adding a roll cage other than if you can actually roll your car and get damage from that. :rolleyes:
 
I think we're in different camps on this one, CNG :D. In general terms I have found the additional chassis stiffness to be of benefit, particularly on older model cars such as the Alfa Romeo Giulia or Duetto.

As to the Audi TT, it's understeer is actually not that bad once you've undone the cripple-code and added the VCD :lol:. She stops being an FF then and becomes the 4WD she's supposed to be. From there, the magic spanners have something to work on.
 
Once you've done the rigidity refresh you can't do it again right away anyway. Once it has a checkmark on it, you can't buy it again until the checkmark is gone. It seems to last around 200-800 miles depending on the car, most commonly I believe around 400 miles.

it's dependant on how you drive it, your suspension settings etc. the harder your springs, the more toe or camber and the more often you'll need to refresh your rigidity. I've played with it some, on my motor sport elise on defualt suspension settings will last three races of the el captain endurance where as with modified suspension it'll last two races of the same race.
 
Interesting observation, Denovae 👍.

That's not something I'd ever considered - I've been guilty of thinking that PD wouldn't have gone to that level of detail with the equations of chassis wear :D.
 

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