Roadster/Boxer
- Thread starter Grimus
- 25 comments
- 3,439 views
- 1,695
Buy the Ruf 3400S.
I know you are already 86% done. But for anyone who is starting out, the Ruf 3400S is eligible to enter more races than any other car in the game.
The Ruf 3400S with a turbo is remarkably fast and sticks to the road very well.
I know you are already 86% done. But for anyone who is starting out, the Ruf 3400S is eligible to enter more races than any other car in the game.
The Ruf 3400S with a turbo is remarkably fast and sticks to the road very well.
- 1,695
I find the Griffith has very little grip in the back end. Before buying AND saving with this car, I would buy it and see how you like it before entering the race and saving. Its very loose in the rear, especially if you drive with no TCS. For example, I have trouble taming it with T8's on and only around 470hp!
- 9,209
- DerAlta
Actually it was proven that an Acura Integra Type R is the car that can enter the most races. See here: https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/showthread.php?postid=667717#post667717
As for Pro Boxer, the RGT is the best bet car for that race. The Ruf 3400s is the best choice for winning the Roadster race.
AO
- 15,855
- QLD, Australia
- Small_Fryz
well i used the impreza WRX protype fully moded and it kicks Ass. with Downforce and plenty of HP you should easily win
- 1,125
You cannot use the CTR2 in the Boxer/Roadster races. They only accept cars that have an openable top like the 3400S that I am using now for the races.
- 1,125
Damn, I confused myself 
Hi all,
New here. Looks like a lot of helpful info!
I bought GT3 a couple of years ago. Got through the beginner races and some of the amateur, then quit for a while; got back into it and got through the amateur races, then quit for a while; etc. My wrist starts to hurt after playing off and on for a week or two, that's why I play for a while and then leave it alone. That's what I get for spending thousands on Defender back in the '80's.
Anyway, I found this thread because I'm very frustrated with the Spider/Roadster pro race. I'm glad to see I wasn't completely out of my mind: I found the RUF 3400 to be the best choice after trying a Cobra, a Griffith 500, and a few others.
I've got my RUF 3400 completely upgraded, and I finally nailed the first race. Now I'm on the second one (Trial Mountain), and I just can't win it. I think the Griffith 500 usually wins it -- which I can't understand, after trying to drive one -- although I think one of the Elises wins it sometimes as well.
Anyway, I've tried super-slicks and slicks, and I've tried a lot of different transmission settings (somewhere around 26 or 27 seems to work the best, although I usually bump up the lows and crank down the highs a little, just so I have a little extra oomph in the low gears and so I can top out a little higher on the back straightaway), but I just can't seem to get close enough to the leader to where I can make up enough time when he pits.
I know I'm not driving perfectly, but aside from just driving better, can anyone offer any helpful advice?
I've tried the third track, the Cote de Azur, once, and I'm not looking forward to trying to win that one, either.
Thanks,
Rich
New here. Looks like a lot of helpful info!
I bought GT3 a couple of years ago. Got through the beginner races and some of the amateur, then quit for a while; got back into it and got through the amateur races, then quit for a while; etc. My wrist starts to hurt after playing off and on for a week or two, that's why I play for a while and then leave it alone. That's what I get for spending thousands on Defender back in the '80's.
Anyway, I found this thread because I'm very frustrated with the Spider/Roadster pro race. I'm glad to see I wasn't completely out of my mind: I found the RUF 3400 to be the best choice after trying a Cobra, a Griffith 500, and a few others.
I've got my RUF 3400 completely upgraded, and I finally nailed the first race. Now I'm on the second one (Trial Mountain), and I just can't win it. I think the Griffith 500 usually wins it -- which I can't understand, after trying to drive one -- although I think one of the Elises wins it sometimes as well.
Anyway, I've tried super-slicks and slicks, and I've tried a lot of different transmission settings (somewhere around 26 or 27 seems to work the best, although I usually bump up the lows and crank down the highs a little, just so I have a little extra oomph in the low gears and so I can top out a little higher on the back straightaway), but I just can't seem to get close enough to the leader to where I can make up enough time when he pits.
I know I'm not driving perfectly, but aside from just driving better, can anyone offer any helpful advice?
I've tried the third track, the Cote de Azur, once, and I'm not looking forward to trying to win that one, either.
Thanks,
Rich
- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
Hi all,
New here. Looks like a lot of helpful info!
I bought GT3 a couple of years ago. Got through the beginner races and some of the amateur, then quit for a while; got back into it and got through the amateur races, then quit for a while; etc. My wrist starts to hurt after playing off and on for a week or two, that's why I play for a while and then leave it alone. That's what I get for spending thousands on Defender back in the '80's.
Anyway, I found this thread because I'm very frustrated with the Spider/Roadster pro race. I'm glad to see I wasn't completely out of my mind: I found the RUF 3400 to be the best choice after trying a Cobra, a Griffith 500, and a few others.
I've got my RUF 3400 completely upgraded, and I finally nailed the first race. Now I'm on the second one (Trial Mountain), and I just can't win it. I think the Griffith 500 usually wins it -- which I can't understand, after trying to drive one -- although I think one of the Elises wins it sometimes as well.
Anyway, I've tried super-slicks and slicks, and I've tried a lot of different transmission settings (somewhere around 26 or 27 seems to work the best, although I usually bump up the lows and crank down the highs a little, just so I have a little extra oomph in the low gears and so I can top out a little higher on the back straightaway), but I just can't seem to get close enough to the leader to where I can make up enough time when he pits.
I know I'm not driving perfectly, but aside from just driving better, can anyone offer any helpful advice?
I've tried the third track, the Cote de Azur, once, and I'm not looking forward to trying to win that one, either.
Thanks,
Rich
Ya! Defender rocks!
I spent many a quarter playing it (as well as the cheap Atari 2600 version). I did the pro-level roadster races long ago. According to my notes, it says the "Griffith is nothing to worry about. It takes a pitstop and falls far behind at T. Mountain" which contradicts what you're saying. Anyways, I'm not sure what I drove it could have been a RUF 3400S, or perhaps the Ford GT40 road car. I did lots of driving in both of these back in those days. Whatever it was, it had 510 horsepower and was on T2 tires (according to my notes). I used T2s so I wouldn't need a pitstop. Other than that, I'm not sure what sort of advice to offer.
So I make my first post here looking for help, and what happens? The next time I turned on the PS2 I won the Trial Mountain Spider/Roadster Pro race by half a second.
I guess in the end it came down to driving. I hit the walls very little, overskidded very little, just basically drove better. And I guess that was just enough. Barely.
Then I tried the Cote d'Azur route, and was as frustrated as I expected to be. I tuned the transmission down to around 23, since there's not much in the way of long straights, but there was much crashing-into-walls. I hate to think that my only hope is good driving, but I'm guessing that's what it'll come down to. It still seems like the RUF 3400 is my best choice, so I'll stick with it, and try to smooth out all those damn corners.
I ended up doing the Trial Mountain race on T3s without pitting. They were getting pretty red by the end of the race. I doubt they'll hold up for 15 laps of Cote d'Azur; will the T2s?
Thanks,
Rich
I guess in the end it came down to driving. I hit the walls very little, overskidded very little, just basically drove better. And I guess that was just enough. Barely.
Then I tried the Cote d'Azur route, and was as frustrated as I expected to be. I tuned the transmission down to around 23, since there's not much in the way of long straights, but there was much crashing-into-walls. I hate to think that my only hope is good driving, but I'm guessing that's what it'll come down to. It still seems like the RUF 3400 is my best choice, so I'll stick with it, and try to smooth out all those damn corners.
I ended up doing the Trial Mountain race on T3s without pitting. They were getting pretty red by the end of the race. I doubt they'll hold up for 15 laps of Cote d'Azur; will the T2s?
Thanks,
Rich
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- 10,557
- Columbia, MD.
- Parnelli_Bones
As you've just learned yourself.
- 9,209
- DerAlta
Another trick on Cote, is to brake earlier and lighter than you'd expect. Particularly for the first corner. When done properly, you'll be feathering the gas, starting the corner rather than when you're through it. At the bottom of the hill after the tunnel, you should be doing the same thing. brake before you come close to the corner, flat through the left, and then hard on the gas as you should be lined up for exiting the next right hander.
its been a few years, for me, but That's the way I gained much more time easily.
its been a few years, for me, but That's the way I gained much more time easily.
