Setting up Viper SRT-10 Braking Bias (need help)

[KING Of ROCK]

I have a problem with my FULLY MODED Viper SRT-10,the braking power is very weak and the car takes a very long time to brake which results in my flying into walls or breaking 100 miles before the turn.

I know the braking bias should be set according to the ratio of much weight is being transferd from front to rear during braking,and I also know that a wrong setting can increase the stoping time dramaticly.How do i know how much weight is being transferd?

anyways here are my settings and if you can help plz do.

P.S.I dont have much problems with the handling or speed of my car.

The car currently weights 1272 Kg after stage 3 weight reduction

spring rate:FR:14.6/R:12.6
Ride height:FR:86/R:86 (lowest value)
Damper bounce:FR:1/R:1
Damper rebound:FR:2/R:2 (thinking of making it 3)
Camber angle:FR:2.5/R:0.0
Toe:FR:0/R:0
Stabiliser:FR:1/R:1

Driving Aids
ASM(ovr):5
ASM(und)15
TCS:5

LSD
initial:10
accel:30
Decel:10

Downforce:
FR:0/R:0

Weight balance
Ballast:0
FR/R balance:0

Braking Bias ctrl
FR:1/R:1

Racing tyres
Both FR & R:Racing medium (R3 I suppose)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

One more question,why do alot of people dislike the driving aids?
If you feel there's anything wrong with my set-up for anyother matter than brakes please inform me.
Thank you.

 

[sucahyo]

If it's me, I will test all BBC combination .
I hate ASM because it make tuning harder. I hate TCS because it's too helpfull . Make the car easier to drive with my own effort is more satisfying for me .

 

[sucahyo]

oops

 

[KING Of ROCK]

Ok thanks,now the problem lies in actually testing the BBC combos..

anyone else???

 

[RXGem]

Other than playing with the BBC (try 4/6) the problem may be in your dampers and front camber settings.

Try lowering the front camber a little to provide a greater contact patch under straight line braking. With your dampers, they are too soft and therefore transferring too much weight for the tyres to handle.

Also, raising the car will allow more suspension travel, providing more grip.

 

[KING Of ROCK]

Ok I made these changes

Damper bounce:FR:3/R:3
Damper rebound:FR:5/R:5

camber angle FR1.5

left BBC same and ride height same

it me approx 6 seconds to go from approx 254 to 0 mph,but i still feel like am sliding not braking specially after trying out some races

 

[RXGem]

Braking Bias ctrl
FR:1/R:1

Ok I made these changes

left BBC same and ride height same

You should definately set the BBC higher.. you'll know when it's set too high because you'll hear the ABS kicking in alot..

 

[sucahyo]

camber angle FR1.5

How about 0.0 front camber ? it should increase braking power more than reducing cornering grip.
And are you using racing brake? try it without them too.

 

[KING Of ROCK]

actually am still testing the BBC's right now.Are you sure about not using racing breaks!!
I read Scaff's guide a few hours ago and he mentioned that you should use racing breaks only if you're using Racing medium or softer tires and am using the medium ones.
he also mentioned that setting the BBC is all about knowing how much weight is being transferd while braking.So how do i figure that out.

 

[sucahyo]

Are you sure about not using racing breaks!!
I read Scaff's guide a few hours ago and he mentioned that you should use racing breaks only if you're using Racing medium or softer tires and am using the medium ones.

If using 1/1 BBC is still too much for the tire using less powerfull brake (stock) can help. I think I will use racing brake if 24/24 BBC stock brake not strong enough.

he also mentioned that setting the BBC is all about knowing how much weight is being transferd while braking.So how do i figure that out.

If you don't have car data, you can try to measure roll angle when brake turning.

 

[Mt. Lynx]

My best tip is to not slam the brakes, but rather gently push the brakes. You´ll feel and hear when you are braking too hard. Done right, there should be very little tyresqueal, if any. And try a 5/4 BBC combo. Also set camber to 1.2/0.5 and toe to 2/-4, and you´ll have a more stable car.
I shall also tell you that this car is a nightmare to get stable without downforce. Add that, and the brakes and straightline stability, and the cornering should all be much better! I have posted settings for Nürburgring for this car somewhere on these forums, do a search and try them out.

Edit: Wait, I found them:
OK, try these settings;
F/R
springs 10.0/9.5
rideheight 90/95
bound 4/3
rebound 8/6
camber 1.2/0.5
toe 2/-4
stabilisers 5/4

gearing. Do the trannytrick (slide auto to25 slide final to max, then auto to 1)
1: 2.350
2: 1.655
3: 1.240
4: 0.985
5: 0.815
6: 0.690
final: 3.075
auto 1

brakes 5/4

ASM 0
TCS 3

downforce 20/28

LSD 30/35/50

tyres are of course R5

Did 6.01 with a silly runoff with these settings. Pretty stable now! Still a bit unsafe during braking from highspeed though, but not extrem.

Use

 

[Dave_George]

I have a problem with my FULLY MODED Viper SRT-10,the braking power is very weak and the car takes a very long time to brake which results in my flying into walls or breaking 100 miles before the turn.

I know the braking bias should be set according to the ratio of much weight is being transferd from front to rear during braking,and I also know that a wrong setting can increase the stoping time dramaticly.How do i know how much weight is being transferd?

anyways here are my settings and if you can help plz do.

P.S.I dont have much problems with the handling or speed of my car.

The car currently weights 1272 Kg after stage 3 weight reduction

spring rate:FR:14.6/R:12.6
Ride height:FR:86/R:86 (lowest value)
Damper bounce:FR:1/R:1
Damper rebound:FR:2/R:2 (thinking of making it 3)
Camber angle:FR:2.5/R:0.0
Toe:FR:0/R:0
Stabiliser:FR:1/R:1

Driving Aids
ASM(ovr):5
ASM(und)15
TCS:5

LSD
initial:10
accel:30
Decel:10

Downforce:
FR:0/R:0

Weight balance
Ballast:0
FR/R balance:0

Braking Bias ctrl
FR:1/R:1

Racing tyres
Both FR & R:Racing medium (R3 I suppose)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

One more question,why do alot of people dislike the driving aids?
If you feel there's anything wrong with my set-up for anyother matter than brakes please inform me.
Thank you.

Well you made the first logical step and read the guides that Scaff put up for us:tup: Im no expert in this field but you mention your currently using 1/1 brake bias which is the lowest setting, and you also mention you have no handling problems, so with the ride height being low your minimising weight transfer as much as you can, I would suggest that you start upping the values for brake bias 1 click at a time and test the results with some brake tests on the test course from high speed, perhaps using the data logger?

Racing tyres should enable you to use quite high values for the brake bias, but as has already been mentioned, you will feel the ABS coming in if you set it too high, so work your way up until the car is stopping well but not triggering the ABS and you should find something that works. Im sure when Scaff sees this he will give you some more detailed guidance on the matter:tup:

regards

David

 

[T4 GTR]

Yes I dislike the driving aids because the seem to make it harder.

Here should be good settings:


Cheers

T4 GTR

 

[KING Of ROCK]

Thanks for the replies everyone,I appreciate it.I'm sorry for not replying as i didn't have internet access for about a week,It'll take me some time to test some of the settings here before i can reply.Thanks anyways

Btw:I try to avoid the downforce as i don't want to sacrifice top speed for the sake of braking power.

 

[Mt. Lynx]

Thanks for the replies everyone,I appreciate it.I'm sorry for not replying as i didn't have internet access for about a week,It'll take me some time to test some of the settings here before i can reply.Thanks anyways

Btw:I try to avoid the downforce as i don't want to sacrifice top speed for the sake of braking power.

No need to worry about that! The car is so fast, that you may want to add some downforce just to stop better. You rarely even get to it´s top speed, especially with circuit settings like the ones posted here. On the testtrack you can test it´s enormous top speed of over 300 mph!! And let´s face it, on no other track can you get to that speed, so driveability is far more important than top speed! Point being, this car only benefits from downforce!

 

[KING Of ROCK]

You have a point.I already got it at 300.40 mph at the 300 mph club,so i'll keep that in a different settings set.

Btw I have problems understanding the Data logger specially when it comes to calculating braking power

 

[Mt. Lynx]

I tune almost exclusively by feel, and use very little visual input, if any, so I can´t really help you with that, sorry. The only exception is gearing, where the power/torque curves are handy.

As for feel tuning the brakes, I use my ears more than anything. If the tyres screech during braking, you have locked the wheels, and thus you are sliding on the roadsurface, wich in turn means you get a longer braking distance. Applied correctly, the wheels should not lock to get maximum grip from the tyres. After all, it is not the brakes that stop the car, it´s the tyres!

 

[sucahyo]

Btw:I try to avoid the downforce as i don't want to sacrifice top speed for the sake of braking power.

I maybe wrong, but in my Supra RZ I feel high downforce reduce speed at bellow 280 mph. MY supra with wing reach 250 mph slower with wing but, make it able to reach 303mph. without wing reaching 250mph is easier but it cannot go past 299mph.