Sorry, an LSD observation, keeping it short,

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Montreal, Canada
NobleAtreides
I was trying to figure out a way to prevent the Chap 2J from understeering so much, on the Indy LTW event, I had reduced the LSD all around, softened the front, tried low dampers, tried putting some weight on the front, tried different cambers, set negative toes, mildly, nothing seemed to work.

Front (only) Tires turn red at 280km/hr in corners.

So, I decided to try the craziest notion, to Set the IT and Accel to a MAXimum of 60, just for kicks, and having read about how raising IT, and Accel, creates much more understeer..

The car no longer understeered. (well, a lot less anyway), am able to corner at 295 with white tires.

thoughts?
 
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did it oversteer?

you think the wheels are locking sooner?

the outside wheel is getting more power then the previous lower setting?
 
did it oversteer?

you think the wheels are locking sooner?

the outside wheel is getting more power then the previous lower setting?

no, I cannot make it oversteer, I wish I could just a little.

I want to it hold the line. it seems to have difficulty settling into the corner.

but how with the holy grail of in game documentation, it describes the effect of raising IT, to promote understeer, now the car handles better, than with IT 5-10 ?!
 
Hmmm I'm not race pro but isn't it normal that a car understeers at 280 km/h?

You said you tested everything, but did you readjust everything back to normal when you tried the LSD at 60/60/xx? Or was it maybe just some camber/toe, spring whatsoever setting, that helped?

Something you could also try is to set Initial to 60 and Accel to 5, that sometimes helps me a lot!
 
Raising INT doesn't promote understeer unless your in a FWD or AWD and raising the front INT. In RWD and the rear diff on a AWD car raising INT should reduce understeer and promote oversteer if possible. Think of raising INT like it's enhancing the characteristics of the platform. FF understeer on throttle, raising INT increases the on throttle understeer. A RWD has on Throttle oversteer, raising INT increases it.

It does make the car harder to rotate OFF throttle in both cases. That's why you have poor entry. Try keeping the Accel high by lowering the INT a bit, you should get better corner entry.
 
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Raising INT doesn't promote understeer unless your in a FWD or AWD and raising the front INT. In RWD and the rear diff on a AWD car raising INT should reduce understeer and promote oversteer if possible. Think of raising INT like it's enhancing the characteristics of the platform. FF understeer on throttle, raising INT increases the on throttle understeer. A RWD has on Throttle oversteer, raising INT increases it.

This is where the theories come in.
I disagree with the above, but believe it does come true at a certain point, but for all the wrong reasons.
 
thank you for the replies, I need a course in tuning. I can drive, I just want to do what I can with my driving abilities===> translate them over to tuning abilities. I think it's why F1, and such events have "crews", the driver just tells his specialists, what he feels on the road, and they vrr, wrench, grind grind, open garage door, with his new and improved car.
 
Adrenaline
This is where the theories come in.
I disagree with the above, but believe it does come true at a certain point, but for all the wrong reasons.

It's off throttle that it gets harder to rotate on all platforms ;)

On throttle my previous post is concrete, but as always the rules of this game are not written in stone and have many impacting variables ;) it's been shown to do the odd thing when thrown a curve ball from time to time.

People should mention if it's on or off throttle under/oversteer.
 
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It's off throttle that it gets harder to rotate on all platforms ;)

On throttle my previous post is concrete, but as always the rules of this game are not written in stone and have many impacting variables ;) it's been shown to do the odd thing when thrown a curve ball from time to time.

People should mention if it's on or off throttle under/oversteer.
I still disagree, but the point is, we've already had threads and threads about differing theories. Anyone seriously interested in learning a few tuning techniques should read them. Otherwise this thread becomes the same people, repeating the same theories, only to end at the same point of agreeing to disagree. Whatever works for you, I support.
 
Adrenaline
I still disagree, but the point is, we've already had threads and threads about differing theories. Anyone seriously interested in learning a few tuning techniques should read them. Otherwise this thread becomes the same people, repeating the same theories, only to end at the same point of agreeing to disagree. Whatever works for you, I support.

Whatever floats your Boat.
 
Yes. Just being sarcastic. I don't at all believe that any of the tuning settings are backwards. And I've been pretty vocal on this site about that.

I firmly believe that they're not backwards per se but they're a bit odd in relation to the real world effects.
 
I firmly believe that they're not backwards per se but they're a bit odd in relation to the real world effects.

I agree with that statement. The do close to what the in-game descriptions say, but are not entirely relateable to tuning in the real world. It's a game.
 
I put my acceleration at 10-20. 20 being in a slower car. I use no tcs so less is more, I have more control on exits and all around better handling. I've played and mastered every race sim from gt3/4 to all forzas, f1 10 and now I'm day 3 of gt5 and I'm level 31 with every f1 car and x10, not bragging just saying unless your doing a straight run u want ur LSD set very low and initial torque moderately low. If you use full tcs and stability nevermind what I just said. A manual helps too.
 
I'm a tuning noob, but I will advance my own anecdotes (maybe the plurality will magically make it data? ;-):

tl;dr / cool story bro version: Theory: Outside wheel getting more powerrrr from high Accel. Not sure about Initial effect (still). Also, Brontosauruses are thin at one end, thick in the middle...

Anyways...

I was jonesing to race some humans. I often look for GT500/300 rooms with SRF off, since there are often some to be found in AUS, and it's not too hard to pick a not-useless car and drive. Found one, good ping, Deep Forest. Nice. Then the host changed to High Speed Ring, and picked Weather Change (Sunny, probably randomly). Uh-oh. It was a bad idea, since all I wanted was to try and race steadily and cleanly, and I made the following utterly moronic error(s):

Takata Dome NSX '06, stock, racing softs, setup a lightly tweaked (since dumped) version of:

LSD: 20/50/15
Suspension: 10/-15, 14.5/14.5, 10/10, 6/6, 5/5 - Camber 2.6/1.5 - Toe -0.05/0.20

The more experienced will probably already know what happened, since I'm hardly a lightning-reflexed driving virtuoso. The above setup (millross' for WRS 17) was intended for R246, offline, DS3 sensitivity 1, active steering strong, which I don't really like, and certainly wasn't allowed on this occasion).

I went out on track. I got to the first high-speed banked turn. I went splat.

I said, "Durrr .....oh, yeah", and backed out and fixed the dumb offline ride heights. Zeroed the front toe, because I wasn't sure. Dropped my Sensitivity down to 3 or something. Guessed a Transmission. Went back in, had to race.

I went splat a lot, especially on cold or even slightly worn tires. Spinning and blocking/ramming on that straight when I was trying to get out of the way and just not hit people was seriously painful, so I gave up and apologized.

Later testing revealed what all the more experienced racers probably already knew:

1: Weather Change and Sunny doesn't mean the track is dry (perhaps unless it's set to Fixed). C'est la Guerre. Suspected just by looking, online meant even less grip, naturally.

2: That Accel setting was killing me in that situation (high speed banked turn, slightly too much speed/slip angle, MR twitchy car). Violent death every time. Probably would do much less damage to a wheel user with more feedback and no weird slip-angle aid, or someone who actually knew their lines, zones, and maximum speeds on that track.

3: It does it even at the default 10/40/20 and otherwise completely default suspension settings even with Racing Softs in said context; a Xanavi GT-R 08 is much more stable (duh), but it can still occur - go over that slip angle, you're dead. Dial the Accel down to 20, you're fine. No need to touch anything else yet. Lose the Weather Change or just go offline, no problem.

4: Later testing of various cars around Tsukuba, I was trying out a Ford GT LM '69; stock settings, R3s. Deadly on-throttle oversteer, outside tire glowing. Hrm... 💡 Drop Accel, much easier to control. Still needs tuning, but less doing the deadly sideways action.

Re-reading the discussion in Hami's thread (nice to see you!), I can kind of see where this plays in. I often seem to get some results from higher Initial depending on track and car layout, but I know my driving style needs a lot of work.
 
So, I decided to try the craziest notion, to Set the IT and Accel to a MAXimum of 60, just for kicks, and having read about how raising IT, and Accel, creates much more understeer..

The car no longer understeered. (well, a lot less anyway), am able to corner at 295 with white tires.

Hi, what tyres were you running?
 
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