Starting not to trust GTVault...
- Thread starter AudiPro
- 34 comments
- 4,789 views
- 379
- Florissant, MO
I have some issues with GTVault:
1) As you've discovered, there's a lot of crap. You will have to wade through a mountain of dung to find the occasional ruby. However, as you knock around there more and more, you'll find that there are certain tuners whose work you can generally trust. You'll also start to identify the n00bz that think because you get up there and start changing crap randomly, you are t3h gr8 t00narz and they'll copypasta the exact same setting to ALL cars in the game. Usually, if I open a post for a certain car and notice in the upper-most field that the car is equipped with R5s or St.4 turbo, I move along and look elsewhere. It's probably junk.
2) "Different strokes for different folks." Reubens Barrachelo and Michael Schumacher used to be teammates driving for Ferrari in 2005 and thereabouts. They drove the same car, but I promise you they had different suspension settings because they had wildly different driving styles: Reubens was very methodical and cautious, whereas Schumacher was a man possessed. You will no doubt have to make adjustments to any settings to get the best results for YOUR driving style.
Finally, 3) there is no "magic bullet" as far as suspension tuing goes. You can't expect to drive a 12 minute lap around the ring, throw on a new tune and see it drop to sub-5s. The purpose of a suspension tune is to make the car more stable, predictable and driveable on any given road surface. Approach angles, lines, etc. all change from course to course, and car to car, and driver to driver, so your priority should be finding the tune that has that "natural feel" for you. If you find the car to be substantially less quirky and/or twitchy, then mission is accomplished.
Tuning is not dissimilar to long-range shooting and reloading: someone else can give you general information to use as a starting point, but there is substantial difference between how we shoot, and our rifles, and our exact components, so you have to season to flavor to get those tight, itty-bitty groups at long range. It's just a matter of "dialing it in," as we like to say on the shooting range.
1) As you've discovered, there's a lot of crap. You will have to wade through a mountain of dung to find the occasional ruby. However, as you knock around there more and more, you'll find that there are certain tuners whose work you can generally trust. You'll also start to identify the n00bz that think because you get up there and start changing crap randomly, you are t3h gr8 t00narz and they'll copypasta the exact same setting to ALL cars in the game. Usually, if I open a post for a certain car and notice in the upper-most field that the car is equipped with R5s or St.4 turbo, I move along and look elsewhere. It's probably junk.
2) "Different strokes for different folks." Reubens Barrachelo and Michael Schumacher used to be teammates driving for Ferrari in 2005 and thereabouts. They drove the same car, but I promise you they had different suspension settings because they had wildly different driving styles: Reubens was very methodical and cautious, whereas Schumacher was a man possessed. You will no doubt have to make adjustments to any settings to get the best results for YOUR driving style.
Finally, 3) there is no "magic bullet" as far as suspension tuing goes. You can't expect to drive a 12 minute lap around the ring, throw on a new tune and see it drop to sub-5s. The purpose of a suspension tune is to make the car more stable, predictable and driveable on any given road surface. Approach angles, lines, etc. all change from course to course, and car to car, and driver to driver, so your priority should be finding the tune that has that "natural feel" for you. If you find the car to be substantially less quirky and/or twitchy, then mission is accomplished.
Tuning is not dissimilar to long-range shooting and reloading: someone else can give you general information to use as a starting point, but there is substantial difference between how we shoot, and our rifles, and our exact components, so you have to season to flavor to get those tight, itty-bitty groups at long range. It's just a matter of "dialing it in," as we like to say on the shooting range.
- 379
- Florissant, MO
Korza, I'd urge you to take another look at ballast, if you really, REALLY want to start dialing your cars in for any specific course. It can make a huge impact on the car's handling dynamic depending on how you've got it set up, and if you've got particular tunes for particular courses. It doesn't even take much to make a difference: I've seen as little as 10kg make a measurable difference on a car weighing almost 1,600kg. We're talking almost a full second per lap in some cases, and there was even more difference depending on the balance placement!
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- 379
- Florissant, MO
- 353
- San Diego/Calif
I know that I need it so I can make the proper adjustments for the front and rear springs so the weight while braking doesn't throw off the other settings
Also I got the suspension tuned to my liking BUT when driving if you hit any thing from a rock to a leaf this car will get put in to the wall fast. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
Also I got the suspension tuned to my liking BUT when driving if you hit any thing from a rock to a leaf this car will get put in to the wall fast. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
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- 379
- Florissant, MO
- 379
- Florissant, MO
- 608
- St. Ann, MO
- ryldhune
Wouldn't you want those higher? I don't think he's concerned about speed so much as he is glue right now...
- 379
- Florissant, MO
What Audi are you wanting to tame?
If your stabilizers are that low and you're getting the car thrown wildly off balance with the slightest upset, you've got something else too tight. What spring rates do you have?
If your stabilizers are that low and you're getting the car thrown wildly off balance with the slightest upset, you've got something else too tight. What spring rates do you have?
- 379
- Florissant, MO
If you've got a car that gets airborne or thrown off course by the slightest upset, typically a high stabilizer value is the culprit. The stabilizers are also called "anti-roll bars" so naturally they are meant to arrest the natural rolling motion of a car traveling over a surface which is not level perpendicular to the direction of motion. They are meant to keep the two wheels on the same axle on, or close to the same plane relative to the car's position in space. (Sorry if my geometrical explanations are confuzzing you. I'll try to find some way to put them in simpler terms...) So, if your stabilizers are set too high, and you run over something, say the curbing on the inside of a corner at Opera, the wheels will not have the range of motion to absorb the impact, and the energy will then be transferred to the chassis, throwing the car off its intended line of travel.
The major culprit is usually the spring rates being far too high to absorb the motion transfer. Secondary culprit would be the shock absorbers being set to high and not actually absorbing the shock as they were designed to do. However, most folks overlook the stabilizers because they play such a limited, backup role in the car's suspension dynamic. If these are set too high, even when all else is perfect, it can spell disaster at the least little bounce.
Does that make any sense to you?
