Suspension Tuning Guide

[GT4_Rule]

Hey guys, I was wondering whats an ideal suspension setting...one that can be used for most cars, like ride height. Is it better to increase the number on the spring rate for both the front and the rear, or just one? and if I make the rate too high, then would it affect the car? Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

 

[sucahyo]

I am currently reading halfway through s Suspension Tuning Backwards? - A Test with RX-8. My impression is:

Spring rate:
Higher is stiffer and stiffer is more grippy. Higher front create more oversteer, higher rear create more understeer.
If you want more grip use as stiff as possible.

Personal opinion:
Ride height:
Lower is more grippy. Higher front create more understeer, higher rear create more oversteer.
If you want more grip use as low as possible.

Damper:
Higher is more grippy. Higher front create more oversteer, higher rear create more understeer.
If you want more grip use as high as possible.

Camber:
Maximum grip depend on spring rate and ride height. Correct value will give more grip.
I don't use this.

Toe:
0 (zero) is more grippy. Non 0 front create more understeer, non 0 rear create more oversteer.
I don't use this.

Stabilizer:
Lower is more grippy. Higher front create more understeer, higher rear create more oversteer.
If you want more grip use as low as possible.

Brake balance controller:
Maximum grip depend on tire, brake, car weight distribution, spring rate and ride height. Correct value will give more grip.
Experiment.

LSD:
low is more grippy. higher front create more understeer, higher rear create more oversteer.
I don't use this.

Balast:
Non added part is more grippy.
Don't use it.

*edit: change all reference to higher*

 

[Scaff]

Hey guys, I was wondering whats an ideal suspension setting...one that can be used for most cars, like ride height. Is it better to increase the number on the spring rate for both the front and the rear, or just one? and if I make the rate too high, then would it affect the car? Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

GT4_Rule, first may I say welcome to GT Planet and I hope you have a good time here, we are a friendly bunch and I hope we are able to answer all of you're GT4 related queries.

In regard to GT4 suspension tuning their is no ideal setting that can be used for all cars, 'formula' tuning of this nature just does not work in GT4.

For example if you take Deep Forest and run a Caterham Fireblade I find that a spring rate of 7.5/6, Ride Height of 85/90 and Dampers of bound 1/1 and rebound 2/2 (all front then rear), however a Land Rover Range Stormer would be undriveable of settings this soft and is much happier with Springs at 13/12 a Ride Height of 230/230 and Dampers set to Bound 4/5 and Rebound 5/6.

Withh these set-ups (full details of which you can find over at BESTuners - link in my sig - the Range Stormer will be posted later today) I followed a very 'test' orientated approach, running the car and changing one arear at a timethen retesting to see how it worked.

You will need to set you're suspension depending on the individual car and track it is running at, as well as you're own driving style.

I would suggest downloading the GT4 Suspension and Tuning guide I have written which should help you get started. You can find it in a 'sticky' post at the top of the tuning forum, or just click on the link in my sig.

@sucahyo I strongly suggest you read all of the thread on GT4 suspension tuning being backwards befor taking any of it as fact. A large number of GT4 tuner do not agree that suspension tuning is backwards at all, just that as in real life the use of extreme values can cause very unexpected results.

That entire thread failed to prove beyond doubt that suspension tuning is backwards, and I personally disagree with it.

All of my tuning for BESTuners (and these set-ups have generally received very good feedback) follow 'real world' tuning theory.

I have spent hundereds of hours tuning a vast range of cars in GT4 and have never found any evidence that the suspension tuning is backwards, and as such the advice you have just posted is very, very misleading in parts. The ride height and Stabalizer (Anti-roll bar) bits are simplistic, but generally correct; however spring rate and Dampers are wrong. And the Toe, Camber, LSD and Ballast info is quite misleading.

Sorry to sound so negative on this one, but I do have a lot of experience in GT4 tuning and do strongly disagree with the backwards tuning theory.

Regards

Scaff

 

[sukerkin]

You are not alone in this, Scaff 👍. Quite a while ago now, a panel of some very experienced GT'ers (including me) with an interest in the technical side of things examined this in detail and concluded that the "Inversion Effect" was illusiory, in part being brought on by drivers not interpreting correctly what they experienced when they changed a suspension component.

I can't recall excactly what I said in the noted thread but I'm sure that my conclusion was that the tuning was not backwards, just more sensitive to adjustments than previously and prone to anomalous outcomes. I think that the 'engine' in GT4 is a preview coding of what we'll see in GT5 but with some of the variables set to null or a fixed value and thus you can get some strange results sometimes.

Of course, you do in real life too but I think that there is an over-emphasis on the Front End in GT4 and that rather than having a dynamic suspension model it works on a relative 'Grip Budget' to determine the handling. That's what it feels like anyway.

Also, a belated welcome to GTP for GT4_Rule.

 

[Scaff]

You are not alone in this, Scaff 👍. Quite a while ago now, a panel of some very experienced GT'ers (including me) with an interest in the technical side of things examined this in detail and concluded that the "Inversion Effect" was illusiory, in part being brought on by drivers not interpreting correctly what they experienced when they changed a suspension component.

I can't recall excactly what I said in the noted thread but I'm sure that my conclusion was that the tuning was not backwards, just more sensitive to adjustments than previously and prone to anomalous outcomes. I think that the 'engine' in GT4 is a preview coding of what we'll see in GT5 but with some of the variables set to null or a fixed value and thus you can get some strange results sometimes.

Of course, you do in real life too but I think that there is an over-emphasis on the Front End in GT4 and that rather than having a dynamic suspension model it works on a relative 'Grip Budget' to determine the handling. That's what it feels like anyway.

Also, a belated welcome to GTP for GT4_Rule.

Put in better than I ever could have, and glad I'm not the only one thinking this way.

👍

Scaff

 

[Mt. Lynx]

I firmly belive that the "backwards-tuning" is a fidget of some peoples imaginations, since my (and most others) tuningexperiences tell me (and others) otherwise, and I do have quite a lot of that.
I remember that this theory was introduced to GT3 too (on another forum), but was not commonly accepted to there either.
So Scaff, I have the greatest respect for you as a tuner, and you have my vote on that you are right in your claims, and your tuningguides.

 

[-Cheezman-]

I will say this, don't bother with the guides on this site, yet. Although they are all very well written, it seems a lot of them are opinion based, given that GT4 doesn't have the clearest tuning. I would say go read some real tuning guides (there are lots for F1 cars!) then come back and read the guides on here, this way, you can come up with a conclusion that suits you. You can see what I am talking about below.

"In regard to GT4 suspension tuning their is no ideal setting that can be used for all cars, 'formula' tuning of this nature just does not work in GT4. "

I found that it does work very well in fact. Most of my cars have a setting adapted from one of the JGTC cars, and they all handle very well. Only very minor tweaking is needed.

but I think that there is an over-emphasis on the Front End in GT4 and that rather than having a dynamic suspension model it works on a relative 'Grip Budget' to determine the handling.

Although true, most cars are front mount engines, so most of the weight that affects the handling of the car is coming from, you guessed it, the front end. So although un-realistic in some cases, it is very realistic in others.

 

[sukerkin]

Hi Cheezman

Welcome to what seems to be the never-ending discussion (in that it periodically resurfaces again and again ).

Altho' I take your comments as well meant and congratulate you that they are not un-intelligent submissions {written in grammatical English too 👍}, there are just a couple of snippets of information I'd add.

Firstly, the guides have largely been an attempt to meld real world tuning knowledge and experience into the GT environment. So they're not really matters of opinion as such (or at least only insofar as that there are issues in tuning which are in and of themselves matters of opinion). Scaffs guide stands out because it is very well presented and quite concise for the ground it covers but scattered throughout this fora there are quite a number of threads which contain a good deal of real world knowledge and resource links. In fact, oh the irony, the comment most often leveled is that the guides are about real world suspension tuning and aren't written from within the perspective of the game .

As to the Front End Bias I mentioned, my intent was to say that this is over and above what you would expect from any car, even an FF.

Now, most production cars are set to understeer, as you no doubt know, but even my battered old Cavalier doesn't understeer like the cars in the game ... and I can't do anything to that because it has all stock parts .

What I was referring to tho' is not weight distribution per se but the fact that tuning changes made to the front of the car, in-game, appear to have a magnified effect compared to those done to the rear. The code seems to have this in-built bias to the extent that A-Spec points are not influenced at all by what tyres you put on the rear of the car. Also, front tyre wear is significantly worse than rear. Plus, short wheelbase cars with an MR drive-train, whilst notoriously twitchy in the real world, are lift-off-oversteer-death-waiting-to-happen in-game . Plus, FR cars understeer for England when you plant the throttle ... et al.

That all implies that the 'grip model' is biased towards the front, or at least it does to me, and that's why I refer to the phenomenon as "Front End Bias" as a form of shorthand for that list of characteristics.

 

[DuckRacer]

In regard to GT4 suspension tuning their is no ideal setting that can be used for all cars, 'formula' tuning of this nature just does not work in GT4.

Bull.

I use one formula for all the cars I've tuned, and it's worked well. And no, I'm not telling you what it is.

And I can't really say anything that hasn't been said here.

 

[-Cheezman-]

Hi Cheezman

Welcome to what seems to be the never-ending discussion (in that it periodically resurfaces again and again ).

Altho' I take your comments as well meant and congratulate you that they are not un-intelligent submissions {written in grammatical English too 👍}, there are just a couple of snippets of information I'd add.

Firstly, the guides have largely been an attempt to meld real world tuning knowledge and experience into the GT environment. So they're not really matters of opinion as such (or at least only insofar as that there are issues in tuning which are in and of themselves matters of opinion). Scaffs guide stands out because it is very well presented and quite concise for the ground it covers but scattered throughout this fora there are quite a number of threads which contain a good deal of real world knowledge and resource links. In fact, oh the irony, the comment most often leveled is that the guides are about real world suspension tuning and aren't written from within the perspective of the game .

As to the Front End Bias I mentioned, my intent was to say that this is over and above what you would expect from any car, even an FF.

Now, most production cars are set to understeer, as you no doubt know, but even my battered old Cavalier doesn't understeer like the cars in the game ... and I can't do anything to that because it has all stock parts .

What I was referring to tho' is not weight distribution per se but the fact that tuning changes made to the front of the car, in-game, appear to have a magnified effect compared to those done to the rear. The code seems to have this in-built bias to the extent that A-Spec points are not influenced at all by what tyres you put on the rear of the car. Also, front tyre wear is significantly worse than rear. Plus, short wheelbase cars with an MR drive-train, whilst notoriously twitchy in the real world, are lift-off-oversteer-death-waiting-to-happen in-game . Plus, FR cars understeer for England when you plant the throttle ... et al.

That all implies that the 'grip model' is biased towards the front, or at least it does to me, and that's why I refer to the phenomenon as "Front End Bias" as a form of shorthand for that list of characteristics.

All true. I was implying that he should look around and come up with something himself, this way, it takes out a lot of the "how the hell does that work??" out of future posts.

I mis-read your post about the Front End Bias, I thought you were talking about weight transfer.. But yes, now I see what you are saying, totally my misunderstanding, and I agree with you.

But your comment on front tire wear interests me. Of course it does go fast, after 3 laps in this game you are changing tires, where as in real life, it could be an easy 20 before a needed tire change (most drivers change tires not on need, but want). They still do wear faster than the rear would, and I know you are all well aware of this.

The reason they (tires) wear faster is because they are seeing a lot of negative force through the turns. Think about how much force your front tires are seeing through a turn while under heavy braking with the rear end pushing the car forward (I'm referring to a rear wheel drive car, LOL!). So this can wear them down a lot faster than rear tires which do not see this force, they only deal with torque pushing them in a certain direction (forward or backward).

Also, I know my post looks as if I am replying to you as if you are an idiot, that is not my intention at all, I'm doing that so a re-read is possible by all members, not just you and myself. It also takes out some guess work.

 

[sucahyo]

@sucahyo I strongly suggest you read all of the thread on GT4 suspension tuning being backwards befor taking any of it as fact. A large number of GT4 tuner do not agree that suspension tuning is backwards at all, just that as in real life the use of extreme values can cause very unexpected results.

Well, I always use extreme value if I decide not to use equal. I use those unexpected result consistently on my tuning.

I use one formula for all the cars I've tuned, and it's worked well. And no, I'm not telling you what it is.

You already give clue of what it is on your setup workshop, right?
For spring and ride height I always go extreme, 20/20 - min/max . Currently use only damper and stabilizer to correct handling, works on almost any car. Always use 0 toe and camber. This formula is good enough to make my GT2 laptime among the fastest (even with bellow average driving skill ).

This value here:

is GT4 damper multiplier, lower = softer, I will refer this as DM. If your car have lower rear DM then you should use lower rear damper to compensate. If you can't see this value you can get clue by using 20/20 spring rate, 10/10/10/10 damper. If the rear is wobbling or hopping, then you have a lower rear DM. I never see lower front DM yet.

 

[-Cheezman-]

sucahyo, I noticed you are doing some script reading there, dude, you can do some awesome fixes using a cheat code device... modify some address and post some Raw codes for us... if you have a cheat device that is.

 

[sucahyo]

if you have a cheat device that is.

Too bad, I don't have it. But anyone that have cheat device should be able to find this address easily.

 

[Badsight]

Of course, you do in real life too but I think that there is an over-emphasis on the Front End in GT4 and that rather than having a dynamic suspension model it works on a relative 'Grip Budget' to determine the handling. That's what it feels like anyway.

i would consider this to be a Hardware limitation , because PD are extremely well funded & have some awesome coders as is seen in how smoothly GT4 runs

very perceptive posts by the way sukerkin wrt the handeling model in GT4 👍

personally - i have very high hopes for GT5 !

 

[sucahyo]

What I was referring to tho' is not weight distribution per se but the fact that tuning changes made to the front of the car, in-game, appear to have a magnified effect compared to those done to the rear. The code seems to have this in-built bias to the extent that A-Spec points are not influenced at all by what tyres you put on the rear of the car. Also, front tyre wear is significantly worse than rear. Plus, short wheelbase cars with an MR drive-train, whilst notoriously twitchy in the real world, are lift-off-oversteer-death-waiting-to-happen in-game . Plus, FR cars understeer for England when you plant the throttle ... et al.

That all implies that the 'grip model' is biased towards the front, or at least it does to me, and that's why I refer to the phenomenon as "Front End Bias" as a form of shorthand for that list of characteristics.

About this, do you know any general tuning that can make the car behave more real life like?

Do anyone ever tune for matching real life car? Not the way you tune your real car, but tune the car to closely feel like the real one?
If you have it, can you post it?

 

[Scaff]

Bull.

I use one formula for all the cars I've tuned, and it's worked well. And no, I'm not telling you what it is.

And I can't really say anything that hasn't been said here.

Duck would you claim that your set-ups work for everyone?

I doubt it, certainly your set-ups don't generally suit my driving style.

Thats not to say they are wrong, just that they are wrong for me and my driving style.

As such I stand by my comment that no magic formula exists overall, it may work for you, and kudos for that, but that does not mean it works for me and quite possiably others as well.

Regards

Scaff

 

[dudejo]

his setups are good bases but they're beatable if you personalize your setup some more.

 

[DuckRacer]

My set-ups work for most people. The many people who requests set-ups from me love them when they get them. And of course, they suit me best. If anyone was a decent tuner who understands all the stuff, a specialized set-up suited for you can't be beaten.

People usually use my set-ups as a base for tweaking it a little for their driving style.

They're IMHO bases for tweaking, and it's a "one size fits most situation". They're like shirts. Most people like them, but they stretch them a bit to fit them. Other people can't wear the shirt because it's too big or small.

 

[-Cheezman-]

My set-ups work for most people. The many people who requests set-ups from me love them when they get them. And of course, they suit me best. If anyone was a decent tuner who understands all the stuff, a specialized set-up suited for you can't be beaten.

People usually use my set-ups as a base for tweaking it a little for their driving style.

They're IMHO bases for tweaking, and it's a "one size fits most situation". They're like shirts. Most people like them, but they stretch them a bit to fit them. Other people can't wear the shirt because it's too big or small.

I'm totally for one formula tuning, just not yours, they all seem to just under steer man, and I don't know if you are aware of this, but they would only work with a controller, a steering wheel user (like my self) would have a tough time with your settings. I am referring to 900 degree mode, not 200. But in no way am I saying your settings suck, because as said before, it is drivers prefrence... even with a standardized formula.

Also, I am in the midst of tuning a Mazda 6 Sport to match my fathers Mazda 6 Sport. The GT4 car didn't handle near as well as the real car, given that even the real car under steers under heavy throttle or hard breaking through a turn... that is more of the ABS than steering responsiveness though.

Another thing I must note about set-ups in general. Don't be afraid to use driving aids, some seem to think only "sissy's" use them, but I would LOVE to see one of these people drive a real car at the speeds they do in GT4 with no TCS or ASM active... 👎

I find a 10 Over steer, 10 Under steer, and a 3 TCS work fantasticly on keeping even the crappiest of cars in check. I also like my brakes at 3/3, I care more about full on stopping power, than steering while stopping power. I haven't lost a race yet (100% win rate). I also tune my front spring rate to be stronger than the rear, arguably, this will manage under and over steer to a sort of neutral point, even though your car must have one or the other (standard law of auto tuning!) I also like both my front and rear stabilizers set to an even 6. You can soften them, but I like that added "hardness" in steering... makes driving a little more fun. Toe is set to both 0 front and rear (whatever on this setting, it's up to you ) and finally camber, 2.5-3.0 front and 1.0 rear. The rest of the suspension set up I leave at 8... I stole this from a JGTC car... worked better than I thought!

 

[sucahyo]

Also, I am in the midst of tuning a Mazda 6 Sport to match my fathers Mazda 6 Sport. The GT4 car didn't handle near as well as the real car, given that even the real car under steers under heavy throttle or hard breaking through a turn... that is more of the ABS than steering responsiveness though.

Good luck, I can't wait to see the result.

Another thing I must note about set-ups in general. Don't be afraid to use driving aids, some seem to think only "sissy's" use them, but I would LOVE to see one of these people drive a real car at the speeds they do in GT4 with no TCS or ASM active... 👎

In some car review video, even pro driver admit that TCS is helpfull, but for ASM its different story. Many racing video that I see shows that pro driver don't like ASM, they disturb perfect line taking. In Ferrari F430, pro driver prefer to turn ASM off (manettino, CST off) although race setting is also considered as good enough.

About camber, if I decide to tune it I use something like this:
Front

measured as 5.8 in photoshop

Rear

measured as 3.4 in photoshop

So, I will use 5.8/3.4 camber for this car. Should I use half of measured angle ?

 

[DuckRacer]

I'm totally for one formula tuning, just not yours, they all seem to just under steer man, and I don't know if you are aware of this, but they would only work with a controller, a steering wheel user (like my self) would have a tough time with your settings. I am referring to 900 degree mode, not 200. But in no way am I saying your settings suck, because as said before, it is drivers prefrence... even with a standardized formula.

Also, are you using racing tires or sports tires?

Another thing I must note about set-ups in general. Don't be afraid to use driving aids, some seem to think only "sissy's" use them, but I would LOVE to see one of these people drive a real car at the speeds they do in GT4 with no TCS or ASM active... 👎

Driving aids slow the car down. It may help for people with a DS2 and on a few certain corners, but they always slow me down. At least with ASM.

Also, this is a game, not real life. Of course driving aids in real life may be helpful, but we're talking about a game here, where you can slam into a wall at 230 MPH on Sarthe and go on to set a lap record.

I find a 10 Over steer, 10 Under steer, and a 3 TCS work fantasticly on keeping even the crappiest of cars in check. I also like my brakes at 3/3, I care more about full on stopping power, than steering while stopping power. I haven't lost a race yet (100% win rate).

That's why you find my set-ups to understeer, since you're used to the comforts of aids. With full aids on, you can pretty much do anything to a car and still be fine. It may handle better, but it's definitely not faster.

Try this if you like: Use my set-up for 5 laps at Midfield. Then use the same car at Midfield, but tune it yourself. Then post your laptimes for both scenerios.

 

[GT4_Rule]

Haha. Thanks all of you for your help. Lots of info you guys gave me - an im gonna try them out.

Just another question if you dont mind. if any of you owned a '03 Honda Integra Type-R with a 320 horsepowers had any screeching noise from the tires at the front? mine always does that, and it seems like the engine output is overpowering the tires. the dualshock controllers always shudders until I reach speeds of around 160km/h or 100mph. From then, its fine and smooth. I've tried putting two ballast weights on the front to try to suppress this (maybe) wheelspin, but it doesnt work. any suggestions?

 

[-Cheezman-]

@Duck, it depends with tires. Sometimes I use sports soft, other times I use racing soft or super soft. They are in the game for a reason, and I use them. Also yes it is a game, but it's FULL title is after all Gran Turismo 4 - The Real Driving Simulation. You would think it would be realistic, would you not? But yes, if you slam into a wall a 230mph, you wouldn't be able to make a lap record, you probably wouldn't even be alive.

And finally, if you are referring to my driving as if it sucks, then you are mistaken. In many cases, I turn ASM off, but I was saying, you're not a sissy if you do use driving aids, I mean come on, your daily drive uses them, real race cars use them, so what makes it so unacceptable in a driving simulation video game? You are just trying to feel high and mighty and do some virtual chest beating because you don't use driving aids, well, guess what man. It means nothing.

You are also acting as if I am saying your set ups suck. I am not, I am saying, I perfer something different, what works for you, may or may not work for others. Agree to disagree.

@GT4_Rule, try adjusting your TCS, if that fails, just use some throttle control, don't go full until your tires hook up, you can use your right analog stick to do this if you are not using a steering wheel.

 

[DuckRacer]

@Duck, it depends with tires. Sometimes I use sports soft, other times I use racing soft or super soft. They are in the game for a reason, and I use them. Also yes it is a game, but it's FULL title is after all Gran Turismo 4 - The Real Driving Simulation. You would think it would be realistic, would you not? But yes, if you slam into a wall a 230mph, you wouldn't be able to make a lap record, you probably wouldn't even be alive.

A set-up for S2s and a set-up for R5s are two different things. That's why you're experiencing understeer in my set-ups.

And finally, if you are referring to my driving as if it sucks, then you are mistaken. In many cases, I turn ASM off, but I was saying, you're not a sissy if you do use driving aids, I mean come on, your daily drive uses them, real race cars use them, so what makes it so unacceptable in a driving simulation video game? You are just trying to feel high and mighty and do some virtual chest beating because you don't use driving aids, well, guess what man. It means nothing.

No, I'm not saying your driving sucks. I'm not saying that you're a wimp if you use aids, but you could certainly go faster without them. They're good and helpful, but I'm just saying you won't go your fastest without them.

Also, you said this:

I find a 10 Over steer, 10 Under steer, and a 3 TCS work fantasticly on keeping even the crappiest of cars in check.

Now, if it works wonderfully, it would seem that you would use that tactic all the time. But whatever.

You are also acting as if I am saying your set ups suck. I am not, I am saying, I perfer something different, what works for you, may or may not work for others. Agree to disagree.

No, I'm not. At least not intentionally.

Duck

 

[Badsight]

with less grippy tyres on - the only thing i change is the braking power

a suspension change that improves road-holding & turning will improve it regardless of tyres

 

[-Cheezman-]

with less grippy tyres on - the only thing i change is the braking power

a suspension change that improves road-holding & turning will improve it regardless of tyres

I just keep the brakes at 3/3. Except on a FF, then I tune it to 12/6. But you are right, a good setting will improve your car across the charts. Tires just make it a little better.

 

[Badsight]

3/3 ? , man you will be getting lots better performance just by jumping up to 5/5 at least

i go as high as 12/10 on cars good at braking , on sports tyres i go as high as 9/7 or 10/7 - much much better slowdown than 3/3

the chirping sounds kinda feels like its related to traction loss - i test at too high (like 16 front) & back it off in twos , as i said so far the highest i have come to set is 12 (for race mediums) . but it depends on the car

 

[-Cheezman-]

3/3 works for me, some cars I have it all the way to 21/12 though. It depends on the car and what I am using it for.

 

[sucahyo]

Just another question if you dont mind. if any of you owned a '03 Honda Integra Type-R with a 320 horsepowers had any screeching noise from the tires at the front? mine always does that, and it seems like the engine output is overpowering the tires. the dualshock controllers always shudders until I reach speeds of around 160km/h or 100mph. From then, its fine and smooth. I've tried putting two ballast weights on the front to try to suppress this (maybe) wheelspin, but it doesnt work. any suggestions?

My tuning would be:
- long 1st and or 2nd gear.
- lower ride height
- stiffer front spring rate
- TCS full
- heavier flywheel
- higher final drive

about ASM, I am faster without them if my car is balanced (I even use 1/1/1 LSD). For hard to tune car, ASM would be helpfull.

about brakes, I think you all should use data logger test just like what Scaff do. Test any combination everytime you put different tire or tuning.

 

[GT4_Rule]

OK! Thanks for your tuning! Ill try this, once my exams are over -_-" I have 3 final exams in a week, and I'm in no time of playing right now. Once the exams are out of the way, I will try those settings and tell you the results. Thanks!