T300 RS GT Calibration Problem (HELP)

  • Thread starter Jucieee
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Malaysia
Malaysia
Hi, I recently got my T300 RS GT from a friend that owned it for about 5 years. It was played on a PS4 and it was broken but he did not have the time to fix it and warranty was out of the picture. So I offered to fix it as I wanted to own and play with one on pc for a long time. Although I have very little experience with fixing stuff I took it anyways as I wanted to play it so much. I brought it back and did the setup carefully. I followed YouTube videos on the setup and downloaded the Thrustmaster software as well. After that I plugged in my pc and the lights came on, it was on PS4 mode and I looked at the user manual it should be on PS3 and green light for pc, so I switched it with the mode button. It moved slightly to the right no auto calibration. And then when I entered the driver settings in the control panel, nothing was responding including FFB. So I messed around with the degree thing and suddenly it spun all the way to the right. Now its hard stuck there with no movement whatsoever.

I tried to identify what was the problem.
What I did was:

-re-plugging the usb and the power cable
-resetting the software settings to default
-reinstalling the software

Those weren't working so I took off the cover of the base and see if the rotor was the problem. Although I have no experience with these game racing set, apon opening up the cover everything seems fine. Nothing was loose no cracks nothing. And then I tried spinning the the rotor and it was stuck, so I took off the screws and the board attached to the rotor expecting to replace it. But when the rotor was off of the rubber belt it spins freely. I'm suspecting the wheel below the rotor but I cant be sure and I'm not confident with disassembling the whole thing as I have no experience with these hardware and don't have the proper equipment.

What should I do, does anyone know how to solve my problem.
 
WhatsApp Image 2024-02-24 at 17.51.20_fc11a4e7.jpg

So...update, I found a disassembly video and I took everything apart.
And I found this in the main rotor that spins the wheels.
 
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IIRC the T300 has two common modes of failure, one being the plastic bracket that holds the rotation sensor (behind the motor) breaking, the second is the magnet glued to the axle inside the motor getting loose. The latter requires quite a laborious disassembly of the motor itself. There is a post somewhere here describing the procedure in great detail. Edit: Here's the thread where both fixes are described.

The damage on yours might very well be due to one of those failures (I imagine the microcontroller inside didn't sense the orientation of the wheel and just kept slamming it against the stops.)
 
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Hi McLean, thanks for replying, I took a look at the link you've provided and among the thread I saw someone posted this:
It's instructions on how to fix the magnet inside the motor. So I tried following the instructions and I got stuck at the part where I need to open the plates holding the motor cover in the body (6th page of the lick above), I tried opening it for 2 days now and it doesn't seem to be budging, the metal bent to hold on the the cover is very hard and I'm just scraping of metals at this point.
So I'm considering buying a new motor from Alibaba and there's a few options:




The specs are all the same but the names and prices are different. So should I just buy the cheapest one or what I'm not sure.
 
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Update, I temporally ditched the idea of fixing the motor in the previous post because I've realized that the black plastic mount contains loads of cracks and figured I'd take care of that first. Upon trying to seal the cracks I used some sort of pincher and I guess I put too much pressure on it and it broke into many little pieces. I glued them back together and it was not perfect but it held the screws. I put everything together and plugged into my pc with the calibration tool on and it worked... or so I thought. I tested the ffb (engine) and it worked nicely with great power, so I continued testing and ffb quickly faded away until no force at all. So I used the calibration tool on it again and it wasn't successful. In my frustration and hoping it will work eventually I just kept on running the tool. At first sometimes it fails and sometimes it succeeds. The times where it succeeds but the center value was off and ffb was not working. And I kept at it and now its at a point where it just keeps slamming anti clockwise so I disabled the driver to let the motor cooldown.

So the question I'm asking myself is:

1.Do I just try to replace/fix the motor hoping that fixes the problem?

2.Is it the black plastic that holds the electric board that's causing these issues? And if so how do I fix it?

I would greatly appreciate anyone who can give me advice on my situation. Thanks
 
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