TGT2.......deception?.....

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JPaul Telboise
I just took advantage of the Thrusmaster sale to change my T300RS GTE for the TGT2.....
I'm very happy and disappointed at the same time..... 🤔 🤔 😕

the criticism I sometimes read about the T300 was the noise the fan makes when it starts up.......well, the first thing you hear as soon as you plug in the TGT is the fan, and it's only slightly quieter, so........ nothing better.😕

the second thing is the very audible "click-click" of the paddles at each gear change....
this only half-surprised me, as I'd already noticed it when watching a few "Youtubeur" videos ....
for the T300RS, you can hear them, but barely........nothing better either.🙁

the buttons....there are 2 joysticks that serve little or no purpose (apart from directing the cameras, which I won't be using) and...
4 big buttons that used to make me dream and now make me cry.😢😢

first of all, when you press them, you hear a big, unpleasant "clock" sound, but above all, they're not really useful.

I naively thought that, for example, by turning the blue one, I could directly adjust the "traction control".......
but no, you have to press "clock" as many times as necessary for the TC window to appear on the dashboard, and only then can you adjust to the desired level. 🤔🤔😢

Since it was developed jointly by PD and Thrusmaster, they could have set up these big buttons like this: as soon as I turn the red, I adjust the brake balance, for example....🤔

in fact, I do what I did on the T300, I adjust everything with the pad...I'm so used to it, it's faster.....so, goodbye big buttons......snifff 😢😢😢

the only positive point is the consistency of the FFB.....which was the weak point of the T300...
I only set to 4 or 5 sometimes, but at least it doesn't drop off after a short time....

well, my T300RS is 5 years old and I benefited from an advantageous "promo", so no regrets, but all the same, I expected better.

after......perhaps I haven't grasped all the possibilities of the TGT.....hopefully some of you will be able to enlighten me......:gtpflag:
 
I play with GT7 and traction control can be adjusted by only turning the left rotary button, pushing it you change of display..weather, BB, etc.. but you can turn it at any time and you are back to Traction Control choice..
 
I naively thought that, for example, by turning the blue one, I could directly adjust the "traction control".......
but no, you have to press "clock" as many times as necessary for the TC window to appear on the dashboard, and only then can you adjust to the desired level.
Umm... no? You very much can adjust TC at any time by turning the blue dial. Same with the red dial for brake balance, the yellow dial for VCD, and the green dial for fuel map.

As standard, only the yellow dial has a press function - scrolling right through the MFD screens - but you can set all of them up with functions.
 
I just took advantage of the Thrusmaster sale to change my T300RS GTE for the TGT2.....
I'm very happy and disappointed at the same time..... 🤔 🤔 😕

the criticism I sometimes read about the T300 was the noise the fan makes when it starts up.......well, the first thing you hear as soon as you plug in the TGT is the fan, and it's only slightly quieter, so........ nothing better.😕

the second thing is the very audible "click-click" of the paddles at each gear change....
this only half-surprised me, as I'd already noticed it when watching a few "Youtubeur" videos ....
for the T300RS, you can hear them, but barely........nothing better either.🙁

the buttons....there are 2 joysticks that serve little or no purpose (apart from directing the cameras, which I won't be using) and...
4 big buttons that used to make me dream and now make me cry.😢😢

first of all, when you press them, you hear a big, unpleasant "clock" sound, but above all, they're not really useful.

I naively thought that, for example, by turning the blue one, I could directly adjust the "traction control".......
but no, you have to press "clock" as many times as necessary for the TC window to appear on the dashboard, and only then can you adjust to the desired level. 🤔🤔😢

Since it was developed jointly by PD and Thrusmaster, they could have set up these big buttons like this: as soon as I turn the red, I adjust the brake balance, for example....🤔

in fact, I do what I did on the T300, I adjust everything with the pad...I'm so used to it, it's faster.....so, goodbye big buttons......snifff 😢😢😢

the only positive point is the consistency of the FFB.....which was the weak point of the T300...
I only set to 4 or 5 sometimes, but at least it doesn't drop off after a short time....

well, my T300RS is 5 years old and I benefited from an advantageous "promo", so no regrets, but all the same, I expected better.

after......perhaps I haven't grasped all the possibilities of the TGT.....hopefully some of you will be able to enlighten me......:gtpflag:
You might want to go on YouTube and get a tutorial… I have the same wheel and what your saying is incorrect.. The dials work effortlessly and on the fly… The vibrations you also get from the wheel makes the driving so much lively… Definitely compared to the T300…
 
It's my steering wheel. My performance has improved compared to the Logitech G29. The noise exists, but I'm used to it because it's almost imperceptible, due to the sound of the game or headphones.
 
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Bought a T-GT II as replacement from G29, I'm very satisfied. Then, I upgraded it with a bigger steering wheel and longer paddle shifters.
 
Then, I upgraded it with a bigger steering wheel and longer paddle shifters.
boat mickey GIF
 
So......after reading your answers, I just went to Le Mans with a 4WD....to get the 4 possible tuning windows and time to fiddle with the steering wheel on the straight.😉

and indeed, I can adjust the brakes, the TC and the fuel consumption and the right window is displayed at the same time........it's SUPER !!!!!... 😂😂🤗🤗🤗🥳🥳🥳

you just have to look for the yellow one (center differential), but it's not something you change every 5 minutes....

Thanks for helping a 74-year-old grandpa adjust his steering wheel....🤗🤗😂😂

For the Ramosis steering wheel, I don't have this one, but the one with the imitation chrome plastic at the bottom....

and another thing, which I didn't mention earlier, this shiny plastic is quite disturbing when you turn the steering wheel, it attracts the eye......then, I remedied this "problem" by covering it with a sheet of black sticker that I had and it doesn't bother me anymore.
I would have preferred the same as you.

as for the paddles, apart from the noise, I'm happy with them for the moment, I'll see later if they need to be enlarged.....

Thank you for your answers🤗🤗🤗😂:gtpflag:
 

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I dunno, my TGT2 has been a great upgrade from my old T300 GT. Specifically the GT specific dials for BB/FM/TC, and also the GT Mode/bass shaker mounted in the rear of it. If I had a gripe, it would be that it should come with TLCM pedals, or at least have an option too, other than that it’s been a great wheel.
 
I have the TGT II and like it compared with T300..but I have huge problem with TLCM brake, I really cannot « feel » it even with the hardest springs it too « flexible » I never know how to break properly, I think I will go for Fanatec (I used before the CSL Elite with load cell very strong.., with drive hub unfortunately Drive hub doesn’t works well with TGT II I had a lot of disconnections..
 
So......after reading your answers, I just went to Le Mans with a 4WD....to get the 4 possible tuning windows and time to fiddle with the steering wheel on the straight.😉

and indeed, I can adjust the brakes, the TC and the fuel consumption and the right window is displayed at the same time........it's SUPER !!!!!... 😂😂🤗🤗🤗🥳🥳🥳

you just have to look for the yellow one (center differential), but it's not something you change every 5 minutes....

Thanks for helping a 74-year-old grandpa adjust his steering wheel....🤗🤗😂😂

For the Ramosis steering wheel, I don't have this one, but the one with the imitation chrome plastic at the bottom....

and another thing, which I didn't mention earlier, this shiny plastic is quite disturbing when you turn the steering wheel, it attracts the eye......then, I remedied this "problem" by covering it with a sheet of black sticker that I had and it doesn't bother me anymore.
I would have preferred the same as you.

as for the paddles, apart from the noise, I'm happy with them for the moment, I'll see later if they need to be enlarged.....

Thank you for your answers🤗🤗🤗😂:gtpflag:
I think it’s a good looking wheel. Yeah the silver part could have just been black but they all have to do something to separate themselves from the competitors.
 
I think it’s a good looking wheel. Yeah the silver part could have just been black but they all have to do something to separate themselves from the competitors.
It wouldn't surprise me if the silver was a PD required thing because the Fanatec wheel also has it. It was also limited to 280mm just like the Thrustmaster one, and that was a PD requirement for TM.

s-l1200.jpg
 
I have the TGT II and like it compared with T300..but I have huge problem with TLCM brake, I really cannot « feel » it even with the hardest springs it too « flexible » I never know how to break properly, I think I will go for Fanatec (I used before the CSL Elite with load cell very strong.., with drive hub unfortunately Drive hub doesn’t works well with TGT II I had a lot of disconnections..
I can't understand your problems/feelings with the T-LCM in any way. I even ride with shoes and not just socks and with the hard springs I can easily determine the pressure point that is necessary.

However, you can buy polymers on the aftermarket to replace the springs if the springs are too soft for you.

BTW: Of course you should use the brake pedal and not the clutch :D

But yes, unfortunately with the PS5 you are tied to only using one manufacturer for the steering wheel and pedals. You could also mix on the PC, but unfortunately I really miss that on the PS5 because I'm totally happy with the T-LCM and would only like to swap the steering wheel for a DD steering wheel, which Thrustmaster doesn't offer for the PS5.
 
I can't understand your problems/feelings with the T-LCM in any way. I even ride with shoes and not just socks and with the hard springs I can easily determine the pressure point that is necessary.

However, you can buy polymers on the aftermarket to replace the springs if the springs are too soft for you.

BTW: Of course you should use the brake pedal and not the clutch :D

But yes, unfortunately with the PS5 you are tied to only using one manufacturer for the steering wheel and pedals. You could also mix on the PC, but unfortunately I really miss that on the PS5 because I'm totally happy with the T-LCM and would only like to swap the steering wheel for a DD steering wheel, which Thrustmaster doesn't offer for the PS5.

I have sparco shoes😄 .I just ordered polymers perhaps it will be better..the difference with csl elite is that csl is very hard but as you push you are immediately at max breaking..and you cannot push more..with TLCM I push, its breaking hard but I can push more…then I dont know where I am..
To give you an idea I was A half and I even went to A+ for some days, since I have the TLCM I am only A at the very limit of B and I think I lose a good half second per lap..comparing my times compared to others..
 
for the T-LCM, what are your settings?

I'm currently using grey+red spring = 45 kilos.
and in calibration on the computer, I've just gone from 70 to 80 kilos.

That's fine with me, but I can't reproduce the braking of the "aliens" on the TT......is it me, the T-LCM ??

I've also read that the videos are misleading and that they actually brake earlier than we see on the pictures......in any case, if I take the same braking cues as them, I'll end up in the barriers for sure..... 😂 😂
 
for the T-LCM, what are your settings?

I'm currently using grey+red spring = 45 kilos.
and in calibration on the computer, I've just gone from 70 to 80 kilos.

That's fine with me, but I can't reproduce the braking of the "aliens" on the TT......is it me, the T-LCM ??

I've also read that the videos are misleading and that they actually brake earlier than we see on the pictures......in any case, if I take the same braking cues as them, I'll end up in the barriers for sure..... 😂 😂
It’s you, the TLCM pedals are fine. If your seat has even a slight bit of movement, your braking will vary greatly, because some of the pressure you’re trying to put into the pedal, is being lost to seat movement instead, causing all kinds of mind tricks on your muscle memory for pressure. You need a really rigid setup, for both the seat and the pedals. I use the Rex/Red springs, plus washers to remove any play/give in the brake pedal, and I’ve been able to set top 100 times in the world, on combos I’m good at. It’s definitely not the pedals.

Not my video, but I believe he covers the topic in this video.
 
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Level of player is not the problem…when the same player lose 0,5s per lap..my seat is fixed no movement…it is the hardness of the pedal (I have the same spring as you) I prefer very hard pedal like csl elite, you push and you are blocked no more movement..the same on my real car…If you push too long you lose your breaking feeling..
 
Level of player is not the problem…when the same player lose 0,5s per lap..my seat is fixed no movement…it is the hardness of the pedal (I have the same spring as you) I prefer very hard pedal like csl elite, you push and you are blocked no more movement..the same on my real car…If you push too long you lose your breaking feeling..
Ah ok, I like some travel, so two reds and washers work well for me. Go buy a cheap piece of 1.25” wood dowel, cut it to the length of a spring, and drill a hole in the center of it, to replace one or both springs. I’ve thought about trying it, it would be super simple. Or grab a bunch of 1” washers, and use enough to replace the springs. Both are a super easy/cheap fix.
 
Ah ok, I like some travel, so two reds and washers work well for me. Go buy a cheap piece of 1.25” wood dowel, cut it to the length of a spring, and drill a hole in the center of it, to replace one or both springs. I’ve thought about trying it, it would be super simple. Or grab a bunch of 1” washers, and use enough to replace the springs. Both are a super easy/cheap fix.
Thanks for your advise..I will try, I have also odered that

Will see if that improve..
 
Thanks for your advise..I will try, I have also odered that

Will see if that improve..
I’ve tried a couple of those 3D printed things, they are ok, but they tend to lose their stiffness over time, and stop returning to form/shape after hard braking. That’s what lead me to thinking about trying the wood dowel idea, since it would be super cheap/easy to try. I’d be curious to hear how it works if you try it.
 
I have sparco shoes😄 .I just ordered polymers perhaps it will be better..the difference with csl elite is that csl is very hard but as you push you are immediately at max breaking..and you cannot push more..with TLCM I push, its breaking hard but I can push more…then I dont know where I am..
To give you an idea I was A half and I even went to A+ for some days, since I have the TLCM I am only A at the very limit of B and I think I lose a good half second per lap..comparing my times compared to others..
I'm sorry, but always blaming bad times on bad hardware is too simplistic.

I have 2 accounts and therefore 2 drivers with A+. I use a self-made aluminum profile rig with a BMW sports seat from an E9x, I have a T248 as a steering wheel and the T-LCM with 2 red springs and 5 washers as pedals.

Maybe your problem and that of others is that you brake too much/too hard. If the brake indicator is at the stop, you will only notice that the ABS has intervened very late. And then it's already too late, you overbrake the car/the tires, ruin your line, reduce your effective cornering speed too much and then you've lost a lot of time.

However, even more than an A+ rating, the times in the CEs say how well you can drive. Are all routes and sectors on gold here? If so, how good are you compared to your friends and the world's best? If not, then practice correct and effective braking... and please, there are people out there who can drive a T150 and its pedals to Gold and A+!
 
I'm sorry, but always blaming bad times on bad hardware is too simplistic.

I have 2 accounts and therefore 2 drivers with A+. I use a self-made aluminum profile rig with a BMW sports seat from an E9x, I have a T248 as a steering wheel and the T-LCM with 2 red springs and 5 washers as pedals.

Maybe your problem and that of others is that you brake too much/too hard. If the brake indicator is at the stop, you will only notice that the ABS has intervened very late. And then it's already too late, you overbrake the car/the tires, ruin your line, reduce your effective cornering speed too much and then you've lost a lot of time.

However, even more than an A+ rating, the times in the CEs say how well you can drive. Are all routes and sectors on gold here? If so, how good are you compared to your friends and the world's best? If not, then practice correct and effective braking... and please, there are people out there who can drive a T150 and its pedals to Gold and A+!

Then I am doing that only with TLCM not CSL elite load cell
😂😂
 
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