THE RALLY GUIDE
this is a beta...
with time i will update and complete...
If you see how the bot (computer driver) take the turns, is like the street.
They have the aids on and only in a few turns slide the car, so, if you take this as reference to race in dirt and snow, you cant gain some skills.
The key here is slide, but not too much because you will lose speed, sometimes this is useful, depending of the large and angle of the turn. More angle means more slide, and the widing is useful too.
There are 2 kind of tracks (snow and dirt) and this are separated in 2 more kinds, the fast ones (like swiss alps or Tahiti maze) and the slow ones (like grand canyon or chamonix) and they are some tracks with better grip parts (like the bridge and the road part of cathedral rocks).
The difference between the dirt and snow are the traction (in snow are less)
As the cars. Bought one of one kind (exept the RR because I could not find some RR car with enough power to race against a actual rally car and beat it.
I test:
FF: Ford focus RS 2002
FR: Mazda rx7 Type R bathrust R 2001
MR: Renault clio V6 Phase 2 2003
4WD: audi S3 2002
all exept the FF have almost the same characteristics, easy to start the slide and keep it.
More detailed
The FF are very different than the others(because the wheels for traction and turn are the same and the car goes in the direction of the steering dragging the back, with this kind of car is better drive like the machine, most strait possible avoiding the slide but sometimes the results of slide are good, if you try to slide the car try this way.
The FR is more like a drift but going more strait, is easier than the road drift so is good to amateur drifters.
The MR are similar than the FR but the steering is less (because the heviest thing in the car is in the back) but the car in general is more stable and the traction are better than the FR (because the same thing)
The 4WD car have less oversteer than the FR car and have some characteristics from the FF but with the VCD (variable center differencial) you can solve this
The way to slide with this cars are similar but not the same, its just race a few laps and understand the behaviour of each one and chose.
Basically is like this.
To the 180º turnings there is something called “the Nordic trick” is turn the wheel to the outside just a little and turn fast to the inside to enter with more angle.
This is very useful in 180º and sometime in other turns, depending how much oversteer you can make,
In the street road when you pass from uphill to downhill or when the inclination are oposite than direction of the turning the car suffer understeer, but here you can turn the car but they keep going strait so its almost the same. But here you can use the car traction to avoid the crowds or walls.
The tune setup.
the downforce. As the actual cars use from 8 to13 in the front and from 11 to 18 in the rear.
The weight in the actual cars are 1230KG. buy a weight reduction kit and if is less ad some ballast to reach this weight. But the limit is 200 KG so, no less than 1030KG
The brake controller create more oversteer (to the front) or understeer (to the rear) but is better put the same numbers (like 5-5)
the power is from 280 to 310 HP( the actual rally cars have their power in this range. Exept for the lancia delta S4 (449 HP) and the Renault 5 maxi turbo (350 HP) and suzuqui escudo (more than 900 HP).
Take your calculator and try some different combinations of parts to reach this range.
in the suspension is escencial gain traction. The road is not like asphalt. There are alot of imperfections. So, a softer suspension can adapt to the road conditions and means more traction.
In ride height rise all the way up (the look does not matter here) . Put the springs from the minimal to 25% of rigidity depending of the track (dirt more because the jumps and snow less because there is no jumps). The shocks absorbers determinate resistance of the suspension act. More bound means more resistance to compression and less bound means less resistance. More rebound means more response to back to original state and less rebound means less response. We need less bound (from 2 to 5) and more rebound (from 4 to 6) this will depends on how drastic are the changes of direction in turns. More turns like the grand canyon need more suspension response (less bound 2 and more rebound 6) making more roll and more traction in the outside wheels and good response to change the rolling direction and less turns like swiss alps needs more stability (4 bound and 4 rebound) making the car more stable and less rolling to gain speed in straits. Remember buy the racing suspension because in the original the regulation they are not separated.
The camber and the toe angles have the same characteristics than the drift but their effects are less.
More camber means more grip in turnings. (no more than 2º
and toe change the over-understeer characteristics. ( as the drift guide i prefer keep this on 0)The stabilisers control the roll of the car. Here the suspension is rised and the roll transfer the weight to the outside wheels is good to keep the line of turning.
(from 2 to 4) depending of the same thing as the shocks. (the turns)
limited slip differential
the initial torque sets the sensibility of the limited slip.
Here I separate the kinds of car because there have some differences.
The changes I test are the opposite tops. Depending of your drive style find your preference. Exept the desaceleration because more response means more stability and less response means less stability
FF cars:
Acceleration
- response: the car can turn and slide easily but you will suffer drastic lose of speed and the slide will be short or you will stop the car or the car will straighten out because the countersteer are direction and traction.
+ response: the car is more difficult to slide and have tendency to understeer. But when you slide is longer with not too much countersteer and force to go strait.
FR cars:
Acceleration
-response: the car will have more oversteer and countersteer but it will be less stable in general. In the slides is more easy to make corrections.
+response: the car will have less oversteer and countersteer but it will be more stable. In the slides the enter of the corner are more precise and the exit of the corner will lose some speed and keep turning if the steering is not calculated perfectly.
MR car:
Acceleration
-response: the car will have some oversteer and more control. in slides is easier to follow the line of turn and have more force to forward.
+response: the car will be more stable and will go to the outside of the corners.
In slides is more difficult to keep and in the exits if you keep the pedal to the top it will generate some oversteer (good for widing and bad for strait ahead)
4WD car:
here there are LSD in the front and in the rear. And with the VCD you can increase or reduce the front wheel distribution (from a 50-50 to 10-90)
more equal distribution will take some effects from FF car (like the force to go strait and short slides) and some effects from FR car (more oversteer and less stability)
in the factory default appear as 40 but is better put in from 25 to 30 to reduce de effects of FF car (they are not good combinated with the FR car effect)
I use the factory setup. But try to find your most confortable setting.
Wich one you increase or reduce will increase or reduce the separated effects.
acceleration
front and rear
-response: whe car will suffer understeer and is very difficult to turn. The slides will be cut if you countersteer (FF effect).
+response: the car will suffer less understeer and the slides are easier to start.
-front and +rear: the car will create oversteer to make longer slides and is more easy to control.
+front and -rear: the car will create oversteer to make shorts slides and is easier to control.
Desaceleration
Front and rear
Going to the oposite extremes (-front +rear or +front –rear) the effects are similar but the stabilisation effect are more in +front –back.
The last thing to do is add cars to the list (if I found some RR with 280-310 HP with engine tuning to make the LSD test), is add cars setup. (parts to buy to reach the range of power)
In the rest are:
Racing suspencion
Limited slip differecial full customize
Racing brakes
Brake controller
Full customize transmission
Triple plate clutch
Racing flywheel
VCD (only 4WD cars)
Any wing in gt auto
Dirt and snow tires
I put the cars I use in this test.
Ford focus RS 2002
Racing exaust
Turbo stage 1
Racing intercooler
180KG of ballast
Mazda rx7 type R bathrust R 2001
Racing chip or sports intercooler
Level 1 of weight reduction
84KG of ballast
Renault clio V6 phase 2 2003
Racing chip
N/A level 1
Level 2 of weight reduction (with this are 1232KG)
Audi S3 2002
Racing exaust
Racing chip
Port polish
Engine balancing
Turbo stage 1
Level 3 of weight reduction
23KG of ballast
now add your cars to create a settings depot too…
new add...
the road have different levels of detail... in the limits of the tracks the texture quality are less... and
less quality means more soft dirt and that reduce the speed or create oversteer during a turn...
here is some example with gran canyon
in turbo cars there are 2 lags... the firs is at low rpm and the other is at high rpm
in rally there is something call turbo lag and is a device who keeps the turbo in max boost during from 5 to 10 seconds because the driver is allways push and relasing the gas pedal..
and this is a technique.. because you can gain some traction without using the brakes....
and about the brakes... dont push it to the max because the car will lose traction an follow strait and crash...
so.. if you push the brake to the max.. push the gas up to 20% to gain some traction...
