- 15,532
- Cairo, Egypt
- GTP_SEMS
Hey gents, anyone know the best place to look for this (price wise and ships internationally).
Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread
- Thread starter Soulfresh_ACV
- 3,495 comments
- 584,388 views
Hi all,
First post here. I received my T300 GTE on NYE and it's the first wheel I've had since the early PS3 days when I purchased a Logitech wheel that was about 80-100 pounds (can't remember the name). Boy, is the T300 is impressive! I was blown away by its feedback. I've never felt more connected to an in-game car.
However, as I played Drive club I realised there was something not quite right. Being a bit cautious through a corner in a more powerful car I tried to ease the power on and to my surprise realised I was getting no action out of the accelerator until I hit 50% travel... so I tried the brake and guess what, same result. Thinking it may have been DriveClub, I loaded up The Crew and again had the same issues.
At this stage I decided maybe it was time for a firmware update so I turned on my gaming rig and hooked the T300 up and installed the new software. In the TM Control Panel it shows the pedals working fine from around a 10% dead zone (which I wouldn't mind at all). So, now I'm wondering if this is a PS4 related issue and decide it's time to try it with pCars on PC. The feedback in that game is incredible but I was unable to drive how I wanted to due to the fact that the brakes were literally like an on/off switch. When my foot reached 50% travel the brakes would jam on and the car would slow down way more than I intended. I tried playing with the sensitivity settings etc. and still couldn't get any improvement.
The thing I'm confused about is why in the control panel they're showing as working ok? I've seen a review on amazon of a guy who had the same problem with the whole 50% travel before any action but he didn't mention whether this was in-game or in the control panel.
I really don't want to send it back cos I've fallen in love with the actual wheel but is it my best option? I'd just buy the T3PAs if they were available
First post here. I received my T300 GTE on NYE and it's the first wheel I've had since the early PS3 days when I purchased a Logitech wheel that was about 80-100 pounds (can't remember the name). Boy, is the T300 is impressive! I was blown away by its feedback. I've never felt more connected to an in-game car.
However, as I played Drive club I realised there was something not quite right. Being a bit cautious through a corner in a more powerful car I tried to ease the power on and to my surprise realised I was getting no action out of the accelerator until I hit 50% travel... so I tried the brake and guess what, same result. Thinking it may have been DriveClub, I loaded up The Crew and again had the same issues.
At this stage I decided maybe it was time for a firmware update so I turned on my gaming rig and hooked the T300 up and installed the new software. In the TM Control Panel it shows the pedals working fine from around a 10% dead zone (which I wouldn't mind at all). So, now I'm wondering if this is a PS4 related issue and decide it's time to try it with pCars on PC. The feedback in that game is incredible but I was unable to drive how I wanted to due to the fact that the brakes were literally like an on/off switch. When my foot reached 50% travel the brakes would jam on and the car would slow down way more than I intended. I tried playing with the sensitivity settings etc. and still couldn't get any improvement.
The thing I'm confused about is why in the control panel they're showing as working ok? I've seen a review on amazon of a guy who had the same problem with the whole 50% travel before any action but he didn't mention whether this was in-game or in the control panel.
I really don't want to send it back cos I've fallen in love with the actual wheel but is it my best option? I'd just buy the T3PAs if they were available
- 3,024
- Top Valley, NG5
- 9
- Northern Ireland
- mchief22
So I was wondering if I only game on the ps3 and PS4 is their any need for me to update the t300rs to the latest firmware or is this just something you have to do if your gaming on the pc?
Latest firmware always ensures you're getting the latest fixes and features for your wheel, no reason not to update it really, everyone has a PC they can connect to the wheel.
- 114
- VincentVegaSWE or GTP_VincentVega
The latest firmware stops the cooling fan earlier after cooling the motor down. A welcome improvement.
- 9
- Northern Ireland
- mchief22
Thanks. I was just wondering if it was necessary.
- 4,054
- Netherlands
- skazz-race
- skazzracer
Sounds utterly bizarre to me. In my experience if you've pressed both pedals to full after the wheel has calibrated they will use full range.
In pCARS did you: (a) delete your profile before playing (b) select the T300 wheel preset and calibrate the wheel and pedals in game plus remove any default deadzones (6% on brake and accelerator) (c) try the pedals UI mode while driving to confirm what pedal inputs it thinks are happening (by default I think it was left arrow on the D pad to switch UI modes to the one which shows the pedals)?
Come to think of it, I recall reading about deadzones in The Crew which need removing too.
Last edited:
- 1,833
- United Kingdom
- WarriusZero
Hi all,
First post here. I received my T300 GTE [...]
I really don't want to send it back cos I've fallen in love with the actual wheel but is it my best option? I'd just buy the T3PAs if they were available
Are you in a position to try it with GT6? What are your results?
I'm waiting for the T300 to be available through Amazon with a pending order, and these pedals issues are a bit worrying.
My DFGT has no dead zone at all and I would expect it to be the same on any other wheel...
- 3,024
- Top Valley, NG5
I wouldnt worry to much about this deadzone it really is only a 5 minute job to set them as you would like. And definately worth it.
- 1,833
- United Kingdom
- WarriusZero
I also have a pending order with Amazon after sending the first one back due to... brake pedal issues. I'm hoping it's just a dodgy production run.
I hear what people are saying about it being an easy fix, but I don't spend this amount of money only to have to take it apart to fix an issue that should be sorted before it leaves the factory.
I don't send my customers a £300 product and expect them to have to fiddle around with it to get it to work properly.
- 166
- Buffalo, New York
- joenick2379
I haven't tried my T300 on my PS4 yet, but my pedals worked perfect with GT6 and Dirt 3...
- 3,024
- Top Valley, NG5
Download the thrustmaster software to and follow instructions to load and check calibration. If your pedals are out the software will show you exactly how much. Then if you want to adjust unscrew the screws on back of the base, care with last one as the break spring aplies a touch of pressure then plug into your pc and adjust the potentiometers as required.
There is a better talkthru in this thread somewhere i will find it for you.
Edit... This is Captain Roh post from page 37
Firstly it's no drama to take the box apart, you need one screwdriver that's it, just make sure it properly fits so you don't damage any of the screws!
Take off the pedals first, then remove the screws underneath one by one. Don't forget the one hiding under where the cable comes in!
When you remove the top part have a good look around and know what you're looking at. If you hold down the base at this point and put one of the pedals through its travel you will see how they work. This is where the problem lies!
The potentiometers have been set incorrectly and all we have to do is turn them through their travel to the correct location so the pedals engage them at the appropriate point.
Make sure you've gone to ts.thrustmaster.com and downloaded the firmware updater. In here there is a calibration tool so you can connect your T300 to your laptop/pc and see exactly where the potentiometers need to move. Connect your pedals to your pc before you start fine tuning, and press the pedals through their full travel too. Now you can start fiddling with the pedal box. Note that the top half presses the pedals about an inch or so before they should start to engage. This is part of the reason you need to adjust and re-adjust until you get it right.
Just so you know, mine pedals are set perfectly now. 100% free of deadzones, instant engagement on touching them and full travel on both. Perfect. However, I won't lie, this took 5-10 attempts of opening and closing the pedal box fully to achieve. You must have patience!
But trust me it's worth it.
Setting the potentiometers takes some trial and error but the most annoying part is getting the top back on. The most effective way I found is to post the pedals through the top half then turn the box over so the pedals are touching the floor (preferably carpet). Carefully line up the two half's at the bottom part of the box and apply a small amount of pressure while guiding the brake spring into its correct location. It needs to go over the nobble on both the base and the pedal itself. Bit fiddley but essential. When everything is lined up properly place your knee in the centre of the base and apply pressure while guiding the two halves together. Now they're in place you have both hands free to insert screws. Screw in as many as you can from this position then remove your knee to do the remaining ones low down.
Job done!
Hope all goes well buddy. Let us know how you get on!
Oh and regarding the Driveclub issue I can't really comment as I use the controller currently to save having to adapt going back and forth from GT6. You will have to get some track time with it to diagnose but that would be a new issue with the wheel itself I don't think any of us have heard of before. So unlikely. More likely it was Driveclub
- 3,024
- Top Valley, NG5
Just like to add ive had mine nearly a month now and its the dogs danglies, Just used it on the crew set feedback as i would normally have it and it was fine ....then went off road and the FFB nearly ripped my arms off, by god is that motor powerful i couldn't fight it so had to turn it down LOL
- 15,972
- Devon UK
- johnboy-1975-
Download the thrustmaster software to and follow instructions to load and check calibration. If your pedals are out the software will show you exactly how much. Then if you want to adjust unscrew the screws on back of the base, care with last one as the break spring aplies a touch of pressure then plug into your pc and adjust the potentiometers as required.
There is a better talkthru in this thread somewhere i will find it for you.
Edit... This is Captain Roh post from page 37
Firstly it's no drama to take the box apart, you need one screwdriver that's it, just make sure it properly fits so you don't damage any of the screws!
Take off the pedals first, then remove the screws underneath one by one. Don't forget the one hiding under where the cable comes in!
When you remove the top part have a good look around and know what you're looking at. If you hold down the base at this point and put one of the pedals through its travel you will see how they work. This is where the problem lies!
The potentiometers have been set incorrectly and all we have to do is turn them through their travel to the correct location so the pedals engage them at the appropriate point.
Make sure you've gone to ts.thrustmaster.com and downloaded the firmware updater. In here there is a calibration tool so you can connect your T300 to your laptop/pc and see exactly where the potentiometers need to move. Connect your pedals to your pc before you start fine tuning, and press the pedals through their full travel too. Now you can start fiddling with the pedal box. Note that the top half presses the pedals about an inch or so before they should start to engage. This is part of the reason you need to adjust and re-adjust until you get it right.
Just so you know, mine pedals are set perfectly now. 100% free of deadzones, instant engagement on touching them and full travel on both. Perfect. However, I won't lie, this took 5-10 attempts of opening and closing the pedal box fully to achieve. You must have patience!
But trust me it's worth it.
Setting the potentiometers takes some trial and error but the most annoying part is getting the top back on. The most effective way I found is to post the pedals through the top half then turn the box over so the pedals are touching the floor (preferably carpet). Carefully line up the two half's at the bottom part of the box and apply a small amount of pressure while guiding the brake spring into its correct location. It needs to go over the nobble on both the base and the pedal itself. Bit fiddley but essential. When everything is lined up properly place your knee in the centre of the base and apply pressure while guiding the two halves together. Now they're in place you have both hands free to insert screws. Screw in as many as you can from this position then remove your knee to do the remaining ones low down.
Job done!
Hope all goes well buddy. Let us know how you get on!
Oh and regarding the Driveclub issue I can't really comment as I use the controller currently to save having to adapt going back and forth from GT6. You will have to get some track time with it to diagnose but that would be a new issue with the wheel itself I don't think any of us have heard of before. So unlikely. More likely it was Driveclub
Although very helpful isn't that all rather a lot to ask folk to do with a brand new £300 product however easy.
What happened to the days of plug and play.
EDIT: Slightly tree'd by @iQuacks
- 3,024
- Top Valley, NG5
Although very helpful isn't that all rather a lot to ask folk to do with a brand new £300 product however easy.
EDIT: Slightly tree'd by @iQuacks
Not really no I find the more upmarket you go with anything the more fine control you have, Cannot do anything like this on a DFGT
- 3,024
- Top Valley, NG5
- 1,833
- United Kingdom
- WarriusZero
- 15,972
- Devon UK
- johnboy-1975-
So, I tried to reset all of the profiles and controls on pCars yesterday to test my T300 again and had a bit more fortune. I also pressed each pedal down a couple of times before I loaded the game and used the on-screen telemetry as suggested.
The results were much better and I only had a dead zone of about 5-10% which was barely noticeable after what I had been experiencing! Thanks for all the suggestions and I'll be sticking around here to keep chatting about the wheel and racing
Thanks all, extremely happy now!
The results were much better and I only had a dead zone of about 5-10% which was barely noticeable after what I had been experiencing! Thanks for all the suggestions and I'll be sticking around here to keep chatting about the wheel and racing
Thanks all, extremely happy now!
- 3,024
- Top Valley, NG5
Yes I agree but surely undoing screws and fiddling with internal working's because they are faulty shouldn't be part of the deal, maybe I'm wrong.
Sorry but I disagree, If you don't like it then don't buy one ...Simples
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- 15,972
- Devon UK
- johnboy-1975-
