Thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel Thread

Are the stock pedals good enough or do you use something else?

  • Yes, stock pedals are good enough

    Votes: 111 33.9%
  • No, I use Thrustmaster TP3A or third-party pedals

    Votes: 216 66.1%

  • Total voters
    327
  • Poll closed .
So, I've had my wheel base shipped back to Guillemot. Our email conversations went well, and I didn't need to provide a video or anything, which surprised me. However, the wheel arrived last Wednesday, according to UPS tracking, and I haven't heard anything from them. I was at least expecting a confirmation that they received the wheel, but I got nothing. Not sure whether I should send them an email or what.
 
I think you should sent a email asking how things are going.

The more interresed in fixing your wheel is yourself. TM doesn't seems to care that much about their wheels working properly, since the T300RS is having problems form their first day until now and TM did nothing to stop it.
 
In works on having mine rma'd again..using son in laws t150 till mine fixed, 150 no where what 300 is but good enuff kit

Had rma done last year and they said will have to pay to have it fixed..think will just save up for t500, they dont seem to have any problems
 
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Hey fellow gtp'ers! I know this is the t300rs thread but this relates to the pedals that come with said wheel. I have a broken accelerator spring. Anyone who's experienced this, what was your solution? At the moment I've waited a few weeks for an online registration confirmation from thrustmaster so I'm a little hesitant to go that route. Set is still under warranty.

Edit: sent in a request for registration and log in via Thrustmaster webmaster
Edit again: dunce moment:dunce:. Don't forget to check your junk box.
 
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Okay, so I emailed TM on Monday, and they replied back yesterday and told me what was wrong with it, what they did to fix it, and that it'd be delivered by the end of the day. Sure enough, the wheel turned up.

Anyways, about the problem - the problem was at the level of the main PCB. They replaced the main board with a new one and it worked again. Hopefully this solves the issue, and I'll have to get it all set up when I have the time.
 
Okay, so I emailed TM on Monday, and they replied back yesterday and told me what was wrong with it, what they did to fix it, and that it'd be delivered by the end of the day. Sure enough, the wheel turned up.

Anyways, about the problem - the problem was at the level of the main PCB. They replaced the main board with a new one and it worked again. Hopefully this solves the issue, and I'll have to get it all set up when I have the time.

Mine had to change the same board, but the wheel got back to me just a lit bit better than it was, not 100% OK. But mine wasn't fixed at TM(cost more to ship it to TM than buy a new one.
 
I really hope that everyone currently having issues with their T300RS wheel and or pedals, had or is having as pleasant an experience as I have had. They're shipping me something to resolve my broken pedal spring issue, whether it's a spring or new pedals the experience exceeded my expectations in a very good way. Thank you Thrustmaster.
 
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I was very happy with the turnaround time on my wheel base. I heard stories about it taking months, and to have it back in just about a week is great. The wheel works perfectly again. 👍
 
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APRIL 26, 2016 By Mark Puc

13076696_1283392431675488_2584628328632567248_n-636x358.jpg


Ricmotech Joins Forces With Momo: Frank Rico is a prolific producer of all things sim racing, he has just become a Momo authorized dealer and with that comes an expanded offerring of upgraded wheels. As you can see, there is a D pad cut-out in these wheels for the Thrustmaster button box. This cut-out allows the Momo wheel rims to be fitted perfectly whilst retaining full functionality of all the Thrustmaster’s buttons and rotary knob. These new wheel rims will be appearing on Ricmotech’s website soon, along with other models and options.

13062436_1283392615008803_1922729095089804025_n-600x338.jpg


MOD.27c– Black Suede

Product Description
-270MM
-D shaped wheel for extra leg clearance
-Cut top for dash installation
-Anatomic grip wheel section
-Center punched on back of the wheel
-Suede

MOMO wheels that are not pre-drilled will not fit MOMO hubs.
They are designed to fit 3-hole quick-release adaptors with a maximum diameter of 60mm.

Additional Information
Style: Formula
Color: Black
Material: Suede
Spoke Finish: Black
Diameter: 10.63 in (270 mm)
Rim Diameter: 0.94 x 1.33 in (24 x 34 mm)
Width: 10.63 in (270 mm)
Height: 7.68 in (195 mm)
Weight: 1.4 lbs (0.635 kg)

13076851_1283392575008807_8919500179097103284_n-600x338.jpg


MOD.27- Black Suede
Product Description
-270MM or 290MM
-D shaped wheel for extra leg clearance
-Anatomic grip wheel section
-Center punched on back of the wheel
-Suede

Additional Information
Style: Formula
Color: Black
Material: Suede
Spoke Finish: Black
Diameter: 10.63 in (270 mm);11.42 in (290 mm)
Rim Diameter: 0.94 x 1.33 in (24 x 34 mm)
Width: 10.63 in (270 mm) for 270mm Version;
11.42 in (290 mm) for 290mm Version
Height: 9.25 in (235 mm) for 270mm Version;
9.61 in (244 mm) for 290mm Version
Dish: 1.6 lbs (0.726 kg) for 270mm Version;
1.8 lbs (0.816 kg) for 290mm Version
Weight: 1.65 lbs (0.748 kg); for 270mm Version;
1.85 lbs (0.839 kg); for 290mm Version

http://www.isrtv.com/wheel-tech/richmotech-joins-forces-with-momo/

RGR-THWKIT-MOD31-2T.jpg
RGR-THWKIT-MOD31-4T.jpg
RGR-THWKIT-MOD31-5T.jpg

Compatability: Thrustmaster T500RS, T300RS, TX Wheels
http://www.ricmotech.com/Genuine_Momo_Wheel_for_the_Thrustmaster_T_series_p/rgr-thwkit-mod31.htm

RGR-THWKIT-MOD27C-2T.jpg
RGR-THWKIT-MOD27C-4T.jpg

Compatability: Thrustmaster T500RS, T300RS, TX Wheels
http://www.ricmotech.com/Genuine_Momo_Wheel_for_the_Thrustmaster_T_series_p/rgr-thwkit-mod27c.htm
 
hey there. I have read almost every page of this thread and came to the conclusion to buying G29 instead of T300. I understand that T300 technology is much better than the G29, however, no reliability. And I don't live near to any TM warehouse or something. Besides, I am buying it from Europe and will be using it in Turkey, so if it breaks I am doomed, am I right?

My heart says take the risk and buy T300 and wish for the best and my brain says I would enjoy G29 and its reliability.

Anyone would help me out in this dilemma? lol. I would really appreciate it. I have reads different forums as well and I am super confused. So yeah, please help me.
 
hey there. I have read almost every page of this thread and came to the conclusion to buying G29 instead of T300. I understand that T300 technology is much better than the G29, however, no reliability. And I don't live near to any TM warehouse or something. Besides, I am buying it from Europe and will be using it in Turkey, so if it breaks I am doomed, am I right?

My heart says take the risk and buy T300 and wish for the best and my brain says I would enjoy G29 and its reliability.

Anyone would help me out in this dilemma? lol. I would really appreciate it. I have reads different forums as well and I am super confused. So yeah, please help me.
For me the G27 dead zone was a big disappointment and the reason I sold mine.
 
hey there. I have read almost every page of this thread and came to the conclusion to buying G29 instead of T300. I understand that T300 technology is much better than the G29, however, no reliability. And I don't live near to any TM warehouse or something. Besides, I am buying it from Europe and will be using it in Turkey, so if it breaks I am doomed, am I right?

My heart says take the risk and buy T300 and wish for the best and my brain says I would enjoy G29 and its reliability.

Anyone would help me out in this dilemma? lol. I would really appreciate it. I have reads different forums as well and I am super confused. So yeah, please help me.

If reliability is a big concern for you, the G29 would be the better option. 👍
 
Go for the G29, after spend a huge amount of money on the T300, TH8A and T500 pedals and my T300 broke, and now i'm trying to make my 8 years old Logitech DFGT to worki with my PS4... i have no doubts.

G29 FTW!
 
thanks guys :gtpflag:, now I can justify this to my brain :)

I have seen many of you guys struggle, especially Cocomoto. sorry dude. and I def feel your struggle since my country charges extra for the items I buy from outside of the country :ouch:

I have built my pvc rig, (special thx to Simul8tr and his pvc idea), my ps4 is ready. I will wait my friend to come back from UK to start playing some dirt rally :cheers:
 
Go for the G29, after spend a huge amount of money on the T300, TH8A and T500 pedals and my T300 broke, and now i'm trying to make my 8 years old Logitech DFGT to worki with my PS4... i have no doubts.

G29 FTW!

I have to be honest, I used G27 with PS3 for almost 3 years and was very happy, very nice steering wheel. I had to sell when PS4 came out and did not what wheel need to buy. At my friend home I tested T300RS with Driveclub, it was perfect, nice, I liked. So I sold G27 and bought T300RS one year ago and was very happy.
 
Anybody have information about the th8a shifter DIN pinout/ wiring?
I would like to use a seq shifter on my t300rs, but i dont know how to wire that to the din connector on the wheelbase.
 
Anybody have information about the th8a shifter DIN pinout/ wiring?
I would like to use a seq shifter on my t300rs, but i dont know how to wire that to the din connector on the wheelbase.
Do you have the TH8A shifter? When I got my TH8A shifter it came with 2 different options to use it, 1st is the din connection to the wheel base. The 2nd one is a usb connection that connects to PC/PS3/PS4. You must read the instructions, if you are using it on PS3 it says to use the usb option. On PS4 you can use either connection.
 
I have a TH8A shifter but i have a frexgp+ shifter too. I want to use my frex with t300rs. If i informed well there is a connector beneath the wheel front cover(for paddle shifter), but i dont want to dissasembly, because i'dont want to cut the front cover for the cables. So i want to connect to the DIN connector where you connect the TH8A. But i dont know the wiring.
....

Like this guy: https://marcushwang.wordpress.com/2011/12/23/frex-shift-with-fanatec-wheel/
but with t300rs
 
I have a TH8A shifter but i have a frexgp+ shifter too. I want to use my frex with t300rs. If i informed well there is a connector beneath the wheel front cover(for paddle shifter), but i dont want to dissasembly, because i'dont want to cut the front cover for the cables. So i want to connect to the DIN connector where you connect the TH8A. But i dont know the wiring.
....

Like this guy: https://marcushwang.wordpress.com/2011/12/23/frex-shift-with-fanatec-wheel/
but with t300rs
Ah, ok. Didn't know you were going to use a different shifter than the TH8A. I do not have an answer so I did a quick google search and found this, http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/frex-gp-shift.16804/ maybe someone with more experience will chime in.
 
I bought a T300 Ferrari Alcantara system for my PS3 & PS4, when I first set it up it was working fine with GT6, set it up with F1 2015 & Dirt Rally on the PS4, worked fine as well but now when I try to play GT6 on the PS3 the gas pedal has been somehow reassigned to the clutch pedal & can't seem to correct it, any ideas?
 
I bought a T300 Ferrari Alcantara system for my PS3 & PS4, when I first set it up it was working fine with GT6, set it up with F1 2015 & Dirt Rally on the PS4, worked fine as well but now when I try to play GT6 on the PS3 the gas pedal has been somehow reassigned to the clutch pedal & can't seem to correct it, any ideas?
Press the mode button until it changes the light colour back from green to red
 
Well I could not take the risk so I have ordered G29. I can't deal with the Thrustmaster's problems even though their wheel is much better, as people say. I don't know if there was a deal, but I have ordered it from amazon uk for 180 pounds. (exactly half the price of my country, so thanks for that to whomever).

Again, thank you guys for your opinions.
 
I figured it out, sorry if I didn't post sooner. It does help to read the instruction manual.
 
Hi. Today or maybe tomorrow I will receive my T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition. It will substitute my old G25. I will only use it with my PC.

Any basic information about how to configure the wheel for the best performance in simulators? Of should I simply leave everything as default? I suppose I have to install some software for it, right?

I will be using Assetto Corsa and Dirt Rally. Do this games benefit from some specific configuration or do I simple select the T300 setup and they will be ok?

I also have a TH8A shifter. Do you recommend me to install it as an independent usb device or is it better to have it plugged into the wheel?

I've heard this wheel may have issues with overheating. Here it's pretty hot during the summer. Would it be a good idea to use a small fan heading towards it while I'm using it?
 
Hi. Today or maybe tomorrow I will receive my T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition. It will substitute my old G25. I will only use it with my PC.

Any basic information about how to configure the wheel for the best performance in simulators? Of should I simply leave everything as default? I suppose I have to install some software for it, right?

I will be using Assetto Corsa and Dirt Rally. Do this games benefit from some specific configuration or do I simple select the T300 setup and they will be ok?

I also have a TH8A shifter. Do you recommend me to install it as an independent usb device or is it better to have it plugged into the wheel?

I've heard this wheel may have issues with overheating. Here it's pretty hot during the summer. Would it be a good idea to use a small fan heading towards it while I'm using it?
First, make sure to install the drivers first (off Internet) and only plug in the wheel when it tells you.

I have my T300 on 900 degrees plus 75/100/100/0/0 force settings (default is 75/100/100/100/100 but I don't like spring and damper, same principle as G25).

There's a preset for T300 in DR, but not in AC. I usually start from the T500 preset in AC and simply remap buttons and axes, this works fine.

In game in both AC and DR you could aim at around 65% master gain, that gets you good powerful forces without clipping. Although you need to lower FFB on some cars in AC. In DR I also use 60% steering saturation so that all cars have 540 degrees steering (leaving the drivers on 900 degrees), but if you want you could leave it on 100% saturation and turn on soft lock, up to you.

In AC I turn off damping and smoothing, turn slip and road effects off, turn down curb effects to 20% and turn up minimum force to somewhere around 3-5%.


Heating: there is a fan setting for the wheel which runs the fan permanently if you are worried. Look it up on the Thrustmaster support site. Personally I find the wheelbase never gets very hot (presumably due to the brushless motor), but I tend not to run endurance races with lots of clipping. My fan comes on after around 15 minutes driving and turns off within a few minutes of finishing a race, unless it's really hot in the room.

The TH8A is best used via USB, to ensure you have all 3 modes available (sequential, H-pattern, analog handbrake mode). You need to install separate drivers for the TH8A and there's also a calibration tool which you could use to have a look at how the gates are configured, change things if you like. Personally I find sequential mode less satisfying than H-shift, so I leave mine in H mode and simply use paddles on sequential cars. Of course, you might prefer to leave it in analog handbrake mode if you find that most satisfying for DR (you can configure the handbrake as sequential down, 4th or analog depending on how you like to have your TH8A configured). It takes a few minutes to switch modes.

Hope this helps.
 
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