Thanks buddy! ,this was my fastest S3 to until now, very hard to nail and lots of dreams have been crushed here@Gomario JSP I don't suppose there's something I can do to divert your attention to the beautiful TT at the HSR?
I don't think my four thousanths lead survives two more morning sessions of yours ... 🤣
Blistering S3 there, I would kill for one of those. I haven't shared my lap yet, but it was a 1:59.388 with a 1:16.256 S2 split, so do the math ... and that was already one of my fastest S3s ever 🙈
Very nice! Wanted to go back at that one, but with my throttle pedal issues...alas, I was unable to. I think I was in the upper one-hundreds last I checked.I went back to the Afeela only to see the time trial was about the time out. So I had a good old go at it. I improved my time and got up to 64th on the leaderboard, 10th fastest American. I’m happy.
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@crome @Gomario JSP
You guys are amazing 💪
Yesterday, I made another attempt to barely save 0.175 seconds.
My best sectors show 59,600, but that’s another story... I really think that once again, I will fail to join the top 100.
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At my level, achieving the perfect lap and winning 0.400 to join you, it remains an Everest.
And I am not talking about the drivers who pulverize the barrier of .59.000 !
My next wheel, if I get one, won't be a Logitech. I'm on my 4th at now and had issues with them all. Not straight away after a good few months of heavy use. 3 had pedal issues similar to your problem and one had a paddles fault where occasionally it would do double shift up or down unintentionally.Since the gas pedal was starting to flake again last night, I wanted to swap in the AXC-Sim linear potentiometer for the gas pedal, TruBrake and a new harness.
And I'm glad I did get the harness...because I think this may have been the problem all along.
I'd probably stick with Logitech if I replaced, but go straight to the Pro setup, as it should fix any of the common failure points of the G923 (direct drive, load cells/contactless hall-effect sensors, etc). Fantec is obviously out there as well.My next wheel, if I get one, won't be a Logitech. I'm on my 4th at now and had issues with them all. Not straight away after a good few months of heavy use. 3 had pedal issues similar to your problem and one had a paddles fault where occasionally it would do double shift up or down unintentionally.
But what to get instead!?
I've owned an old Fanatec (Porsche Wheel Turbo S) but had issues with that too. It would just disconnect randomly when the car tyres were on the edge of grip esp on long sweeping turns. Replaced the pedals eventually with some CSR Elites and they seemed ok.I'd probably stick with Logitech if I replaced, but go straight to the Pro setup, as it should fix any of the common failure points of the G923 (direct drive, load cells/contactless hall-effect sensors, etc). Fantec is obviously out there as well.
I'm not sure what the issue is with this new linear potentiometer - it seems like the scale is off, or it isn't positioned right on the PCB, but I'm waiting to hear back from their customer support on it. If needed (though annoying), I can swap my original potentiometer back in, as I think it was the harness being all mangled, and not the pot itself. But I'm hoping it is a more simple solution...
Since the gas pedal was starting to flake again last night, I wanted to swap in the AXC-Sim linear potentiometer for the gas pedal, TruBrake and a new harness.
My next wheel, if I get one, won't be a Logitech. I'm on my 4th at now and had issues with them all. Not straight away after a good few months of heavy use. 3 had pedal issues similar to your problem and one had a paddles fault where occasionally it would do double shift up or down unintentionally.
Not wanting to get off-topic from time trialing, but i'm going off-topic...I'd probably stick with Logitech if I replaced, but go straight to the Pro setup, as it should fix any of the common failure points of the G923 (direct drive, load cells/contactless hall-effect sensors, etc). Fantec is obviously out there as well.
I know there's a glitch out there right now with one of the Fantec wheels where it does something different, but similar.I've owned an old Fanatec (Porsche Wheel Turbo S) but had issues with that too. It would just disconnect randomly when the car tyres were on the edge of grip esp on long sweeping turns. Replaced the pedals eventually with some CSR Elites and they seemed ok.
Out of all the wheels I've owned the Logitech G25 seemed to be the most reliable. Maybe it's the quality control that's not what it used to be. Logitech customer service seems reasonable too so that's a plus.
Yeah, it seems like their Pro line is much more robust in terms of feel. The Pro base has 11Nm of torque, so it's healthy as hell. My pedals are secured to my stand, but my chair is not, so that is the next step, especially with the TruBrake requiring more force overall - gonna have my chair scooting back, and I just lost my Official Chair Location Mitigator (a box with a set of brake pads in it that I finally just installedNot wanting to get off-topic from time trialing, but i'm going off-topic...
I had a Logitech G23 with TruBrake set up. Getting the TruBrake and then properly anchoring my brake pedals to a board significantly improved my driving and propelled me to A rank from mid Bs. However, you still have to deal with the plasticly Logitech products and lack of feel. I ultimately abandoned all of that and got a Fanatec setup. Direct Drive is truly transformative. I'm happy with my 8NM DD with a 330mm RS rim and don't feel compelled to upgrade further on the wheel part. I might replace my pedals (CSL Elite V2) with Podium Pedals when they come out, but wheel is good for now.
If you have the opportunity to do DD, be it Logitech or Fanatec, do it.
You don't been brake pads. They just slow you down....a box with a set of brake pads in it that I finally just installed![]()
I know there's a glitch out there right now with one of the Fantec wheels where it does something different, but similar.
Yeah, it seems like their Pro line is much more robust in terms of feel. The Pro base has 11Nm of torque, so it's healthy as hell. My pedals are secured to my stand, but my chair is not, so that is the next step, especially with the TruBrake requiring more force overall - gonna have my chair scooting back, and I just lost my Official Chair Location Mitigator (a box with a set of brake pads in it that I finally just installed), so I'll need to something new to keep me where I want to be in the meantime.
It just seems one lap it does one thing, another it is completely different. Makes it so hard to piece together a good, fast, lap.@MP81
The brakes change everything (weight transfer and grip):
- the timing for taking the pedal,
- the pressure applied,
- the progressivity of the trail.
And this in almost every turn.
Appreciate it - I'll be happy if I even get into the 1:59s.@MP81
If I may say so because I have corrected more or less the same things :
T1: Exploit more width until shaving the barriers.
T2: Downshift faster 4-3 and no 2nd gear
T3: No lift but a slight brake and move to the 5th earlier
T8: Brake too late = skid
This Sub is like a good girlfriend, humbly, one must be virile but also a gentleman.
After to take her to nirvana and make her see stars, see with the aliens 👽
PS: I don’t know why but I already regret having given you this advice 😂
Aha...yeah...that one. I always struggle with that one. I usually aim to brake just before the marshal fence, but sometimes that leads me to slowing down too much, and other times, it isn't nearly enough, so it's back to the inconsistency I seem to face. I've switched back to ABS Weak simply due to it prioritizing more to braking force than Default if the vehicle is "turning", and by that I mean off-kilter, in some wacky direction because of the weight transfer. Weak allows me to still brake enough (well...usually), whereas Default thinks I'm turning and brakes less.@MP81
A touch of the brake allows a slight rotation, which allows to shave the barriers. In VR, I feel like I’m going to touch the rails but no (my replay is available in my gallery).
This allows the car to go around earlier because it is calmed down by the 5th gear without risking touching the following rails, on the left
In this way, the ghost of @bliprunner disappears less quickly 😂
Turn 8 is the one just after the end of sector 2 when your stopwatch shows 1.17 whereas you have to go down to at least 1.16.xxx.