Tires on cars in GT4
- Thread starter mamann
- 11 comments
- 21,679 views
Smallhorses
Staff Emeritus
- 7,260
I find too little wing causes tyre degradation. Improving downforce generally means you have better grip and therefore you're much less likely to slide, which is what increases tyre-wear.
Do you drive aggressively, sliding the back end of the car all over the place?
If so that's a tyre-killer. Are you driving powerful MR or FR cars that're spinning the rears? That's a tyre-killer.
In GT4 FF & 4WD cars seem to eat their front tyres at an alarming rate anyway, but if tyres are spinning or you're hearing a lot of tyre squeal, then you're contributing to the problem with your driving style.
Perhaps if you're to offer us specific examples of what cars you're experiencing this on, what settings and tyre type you're using and which tracks you're driving we can offer some slightly more targeted advice.
Do you drive aggressively, sliding the back end of the car all over the place?
If so that's a tyre-killer. Are you driving powerful MR or FR cars that're spinning the rears? That's a tyre-killer.
In GT4 FF & 4WD cars seem to eat their front tyres at an alarming rate anyway, but if tyres are spinning or you're hearing a lot of tyre squeal, then you're contributing to the problem with your driving style.
Perhaps if you're to offer us specific examples of what cars you're experiencing this on, what settings and tyre type you're using and which tracks you're driving we can offer some slightly more targeted advice.
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- 445
- mamann10
Details on car I am driving:
RACE: All American Championship Seattle Circuit
Ford GT LM Race Car SPec II
HP: 960
Tires: Racing Mediums
Suspension: 12.5 14.8 spring rate
Shock Absorbers --- ----
Shock Bound 8 8
Shock Rebound 8 8
Camber 2.5 3.0
Toe angle -4 +4
Stablizes 6 6
limit slip
---- 10
---- 15
---- 10
Driving Aids
15
15
5
These are the setting the car is on now
RACE: All American Championship Seattle Circuit
Ford GT LM Race Car SPec II
HP: 960
Tires: Racing Mediums
Suspension: 12.5 14.8 spring rate
Shock Absorbers --- ----
Shock Bound 8 8
Shock Rebound 8 8
Camber 2.5 3.0
Toe angle -4 +4
Stablizes 6 6
limit slip
---- 10
---- 15
---- 10
Driving Aids
15
15
5
These are the setting the car is on now
Smallhorses
Staff Emeritus
- 7,260
Ok, you've left out a couple of crucial points here, but there's a few obvious things wrong.
Mainly, you've not specified if it's your front tyres, rear tyres or both that're wearing out fast. That info would help.
So, I'll be blunt here, but don't take it personally, you've asked for advice, and I'm offering my opinion on what you've posted.
Anyway, it's patently obvious to me that having full negative front toe and full positive rear toe will cause excessive scrubbing of the tyres and wear them faster.
The fact that you're overwhelming the car with power, and there's really no need for 960HP in that championship, along with the fact that you've had to crank up the "Nanny" settings to deal with this, points to the fact that you've not taken the time to learn the proper racing techniques in GT4, and are instead trying to sledgehammer your way past the opposition by brute force alone, rather than by driving finesse.
I'd wager that you're screaming up to bends, locking up the brakes and relying on the ASM to correct your slides, and the TCS to try and stop your overpowered beast from spinning it's tyres out of the bends, which is torching your rear tyres. Am I close?
This championship is easily winnable with a Chaparral 2D '67 for high A-spec points and has less than half the horsepower of your ride there, as long as you avoid having the Chaparral 2J '70 in the AI lineup (you can enter/exit the race to change the lineup.) I'm guessing your overpowered Ford is probably rated somewhere around 10 - 20 points which is an indication of overkill.
It's time to go back to basics, turn off the driving aids totally, go back to the stock power, turn your toe settings down to -1 (or -2) and +1 (or +2) to reduce scrubbing, and learn to drive the car properly without squealing the tyres through the bends by going in way too hot or mashing the throttle coming out of the bends. It may even be worth going back to some lower-powered road cars to learn driving with the aids turned off first before taking on a powerful MR racecar.
RM tyres should easily last 5 laps of Seattle on that car.
Seattle has a lot of slow corners which means you'll crawl through them slowly and light up your tyres trying to blast your way down to the next bend. Overpowering the car is only going to increase this effect, meaning you effectively get nowhere faster as the power gets lost spinning the wheels and turning the tyres into track-marbles! (If only they'd put that into effect in GT4 properly!)
That's my
anyway.
Mainly, you've not specified if it's your front tyres, rear tyres or both that're wearing out fast. That info would help.
So, I'll be blunt here, but don't take it personally, you've asked for advice, and I'm offering my opinion on what you've posted.
Anyway, it's patently obvious to me that having full negative front toe and full positive rear toe will cause excessive scrubbing of the tyres and wear them faster.
The fact that you're overwhelming the car with power, and there's really no need for 960HP in that championship, along with the fact that you've had to crank up the "Nanny" settings to deal with this, points to the fact that you've not taken the time to learn the proper racing techniques in GT4, and are instead trying to sledgehammer your way past the opposition by brute force alone, rather than by driving finesse.
I'd wager that you're screaming up to bends, locking up the brakes and relying on the ASM to correct your slides, and the TCS to try and stop your overpowered beast from spinning it's tyres out of the bends, which is torching your rear tyres. Am I close?
This championship is easily winnable with a Chaparral 2D '67 for high A-spec points and has less than half the horsepower of your ride there, as long as you avoid having the Chaparral 2J '70 in the AI lineup (you can enter/exit the race to change the lineup.) I'm guessing your overpowered Ford is probably rated somewhere around 10 - 20 points which is an indication of overkill.
It's time to go back to basics, turn off the driving aids totally, go back to the stock power, turn your toe settings down to -1 (or -2) and +1 (or +2) to reduce scrubbing, and learn to drive the car properly without squealing the tyres through the bends by going in way too hot or mashing the throttle coming out of the bends. It may even be worth going back to some lower-powered road cars to learn driving with the aids turned off first before taking on a powerful MR racecar.
RM tyres should easily last 5 laps of Seattle on that car.
Seattle has a lot of slow corners which means you'll crawl through them slowly and light up your tyres trying to blast your way down to the next bend. Overpowering the car is only going to increase this effect, meaning you effectively get nowhere faster as the power gets lost spinning the wheels and turning the tyres into track-marbles! (If only they'd put that into effect in GT4 properly!)
That's my
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Smallhorses
Staff Emeritus
- 7,260
As I'd mentioned, I'd probably not really go for more than +/- 1-2 toe.
The "Nanny" settings I'm talking about are in your settings window under "Driver Aids". There's ASM (Active Stability Management) Oversteer and Understeer settings which try to correct your cornering by cutting power in and out to stop you sliding, but slowing you down considerably in the process. The default settings are 10 and 10 for these, but you seem to have raised them to 15 and 15 meaning you can't turn the car at all without the electronic babysitter "helping" you out.
The TCS (Traction Control System) cuts in if it detects you're breaking traction on your drive wheels, in this case your rear tyres, which, in a 960HP car without good throttle control in the first place, is pretty easy to do!
Sadly in GT4, every time you buy or win a new car, these aids are automatically on and set to 10,10,5 (or 7 in some cases) meaning you have to go and turn them off to 0,0,0 (maybe 1 on TCS in some cases) on each car you own in order to be able to drive properly without the electronic "Nanny" kicking in and rescuing you.
You'll be able to tell how much time you're being robbed of by looking at your driving display, there's a little 'Blue Triangle' icon that'll flash on and off if the aids are being called into use. If the blue triangle is there more often than not, you're potentially losing a lot of time.
Overpowering the car by increasing it's power output by almost half-as-much-again than it had already it just going to make the aids more likely to kick in to try and control the car on your behalf and thus your extra power is essentially wasted anyway.
I posted this for another user's benefit recently, but it applies here to and is seriously worth bearing in mind here, as you'll struggle later on, especially when you hit Professional Hall GT World Championship where you can't simply overpower your opponents, if you can't beat a somewhat simpler event like All American Championship in a massively overpowered car:
Some people view the licences as an unnecessary hindrance to the ultimate goal of going racing, but they do, in some cases not obviously, teach you a lot about the car dynamics (and yes, we know they're flawed in all sorts of ways in GT4) and control.
In the same way that you or I can't go out and fly a Jumbo Jet or Stealth Fighter without initially learning some fundamentals of avionics and getting some stick-time in a substancially less huge and/or powerful little plane first, so too there's a reason that people aren't taught to drive in NASCARs, IndyCars or Formula 1s without having some experience of driving and car control in something considerably more basic first. 👍
The "Nanny" settings I'm talking about are in your settings window under "Driver Aids". There's ASM (Active Stability Management) Oversteer and Understeer settings which try to correct your cornering by cutting power in and out to stop you sliding, but slowing you down considerably in the process. The default settings are 10 and 10 for these, but you seem to have raised them to 15 and 15 meaning you can't turn the car at all without the electronic babysitter "helping" you out.
The TCS (Traction Control System) cuts in if it detects you're breaking traction on your drive wheels, in this case your rear tyres, which, in a 960HP car without good throttle control in the first place, is pretty easy to do!
Sadly in GT4, every time you buy or win a new car, these aids are automatically on and set to 10,10,5 (or 7 in some cases) meaning you have to go and turn them off to 0,0,0 (maybe 1 on TCS in some cases) on each car you own in order to be able to drive properly without the electronic "Nanny" kicking in and rescuing you.
You'll be able to tell how much time you're being robbed of by looking at your driving display, there's a little 'Blue Triangle' icon that'll flash on and off if the aids are being called into use. If the blue triangle is there more often than not, you're potentially losing a lot of time.
Overpowering the car by increasing it's power output by almost half-as-much-again than it had already it just going to make the aids more likely to kick in to try and control the car on your behalf and thus your extra power is essentially wasted anyway.
I posted this for another user's benefit recently, but it applies here to and is seriously worth bearing in mind here, as you'll struggle later on, especially when you hit Professional Hall GT World Championship where you can't simply overpower your opponents, if you can't beat a somewhat simpler event like All American Championship in a massively overpowered car:
Some people view the licences as an unnecessary hindrance to the ultimate goal of going racing, but they do, in some cases not obviously, teach you a lot about the car dynamics (and yes, we know they're flawed in all sorts of ways in GT4) and control.
In the same way that you or I can't go out and fly a Jumbo Jet or Stealth Fighter without initially learning some fundamentals of avionics and getting some stick-time in a substancially less huge and/or powerful little plane first, so too there's a reason that people aren't taught to drive in NASCARs, IndyCars or Formula 1s without having some experience of driving and car control in something considerably more basic first. 👍
- 445
- mamann10
thanks a lot for your help. I don't seem to have this problem in GT5 only in GT4. I love both games but love GT5 much more. the reason for me playing Gt4 is so i can race while I level up my guy to level 40. I have completed one GT5 game and this one is my second game. I will go back and give all the things you suggested a try and see what happens, again thank-you
- 28
Thanks to Smallhorses for giving the best advice. I can't improve on that. But I'd like to share one thing I've done:
Try driving around in your preferred car on a challenging track in such a way as to see how long you can get the tires to last.
This would be fairly slowly, but it forces you to make smooth transitions up to speed, down from speed and in and out of corners. Again, the only purpose is to see how many laps you can get out of a set of tires.
This will condition you to make more graceful movements of the wheel and pedals at competition speed. As well as show you how much extra lateral force is suffered when cornering too late for instance.
Try driving around in your preferred car on a challenging track in such a way as to see how long you can get the tires to last.
This would be fairly slowly, but it forces you to make smooth transitions up to speed, down from speed and in and out of corners. Again, the only purpose is to see how many laps you can get out of a set of tires.
This will condition you to make more graceful movements of the wheel and pedals at competition speed. As well as show you how much extra lateral force is suffered when cornering too late for instance.
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