Tires

In GT 2 If you want the absolute best handling you need to drop the 18,000 cr on the Super soft tires. Sorry.
On the flip side though, they last much longer in races with tire damage than they would in GT 3. Like 10-15 laps versus 2 laps
 
With the exception of Grand Valley, which is too long anyway I rarely pit in under 10 laps. In GT 2 you can drive until the car is practically uncontrollable before pitting in.
My rule of thumb is to watch my lap times. If they drop off by more than five seconds from the average. or a 7-10 second drop of my best lap, I pit in for new tires. :cool:
 
In GT 2 I only pit after I've lapped the entire field. Then I know I have plenty of time. In GT 3 I will pit in if I am 25 or more seconds in front of the next closest car. I come out of the pits right in front of them. Usually
 
In GT2 - supersofts all the way. The laptime difference between these tyres and others is significant.
In GT3 - I rarely use'em. I rely on power to get min 20 secs in front at the 1st changeover, usually running mediums or sometimes med-hard tyres. :D
 
its not a very good idea to use supersofts in gt3 races that have tire damage. they only last like a lap and a half before you really begin to sacrifice handling
 
99% of the time i run supersofts on gt2, aqnd the other 1% of the time i run supersoft either up front or in back with a harder tire to balance the handling. Try running supers up front and softs or harder in the rear on 4wd cars that refuse to drift smoothly ( suah as the 3000gt vr-4 LM) since a lot of these cars have no brake bias controllers available (don't ya just wanna smack the programmers for leaving vital tuning options out?) it is the only real effective way to get the ass end to hang out and swing around in the twisties without having a car that always oversteers. i just wish we could measure sidewall flex, contact patch, and adjust tire pressure in gt2 for some ultimate fine tuning of traction.
 
Here we go with the drifting again... :rolleyes:

I use supersoft all around. I think how long they last depends on how you drive and what car they're on.

On SS Rt. 5 in a GT1 the tires were trashed after about 7 laps. In a racing Skyline on the same track they lasted me more than twice as long.

You can tell when you need new tires. You can just tell. Also, if the color is deep red, you probably need new tires.

What sux tho is that after you pit the new, cold tires suck just as bad for a while.

I have observed that when your tires are yellow they function best.
 
On my only try at an endurance race so far I pitted every ten laps so I could make it only pitting three times (40 laps) and I could have gone another lap or two each time but there was no point because I would still pit the same number of times.
 
Yeah I always find myself doing simple math in my head choosing when to pit. I prefer to not be the first to pit and go pretty much until it's hard to control the car.

Most recently though, I did the Trial Mountain Endurance in an Elise Motorsport with super softs and the back tires were wrecked so fast but the front were fine still. That was unexpected. There was no brake control adjustment and the car didn't really have the power to burnout much. :confused:
 
There are a few tricks to help get 4wd cars to turn proplerly. I to think the programmers should have been smacked a few times as a number of these cars understeer when they do not in real life, such as the Skyline GTR.

Tyre choice is important but if you set the car up right you can run the same compounds front and rear in nono-tyre ware races.
 
I usually run Soft tires as opposed to Super Soft. Because when they are warmed up there's no real differance of the two when.

I make it a priority to divide the number of laps by a set number (depending on how large the course is) while I'm racing, giving me an even amout of laps per set of tires, using the tires to their maximum before they go red, even orangish somtimes.

Also a good idea is to set Super Softs in the front while putting Mediums or Softs in the back, allowing the back tires to spin if you can't stop them from doing so. By the time you do a couple laps both sets of tires should be at about the same spot. But this only applies to RWD or Mid Cars. Whatever, anyone tell me if this doesn't or does work. I'm still working these things out.
 
I always buy special edition cars, with all tyre types supplied, and then forget to apply them, and end up on Normal tyres.


I must be one of the worst GT2 players ever. Look how long I've been on this forum... I only have an International B licence.
 
I have found by running harder compound tyres where the engine is located, IE: FR on the front with the next step softer on the other end of the car works pretty good. You get pretty even tyre where.
Here is another trick to get better tyre wear. Do not just hold the brakes on while braking. Pump them and down shift (using manual) coming into the corners. Usually there is no need to go 100% and extreme late braking to win. If you can conserve your tyres for an extra few laps then that could mean 1-2 less pit stops in a long endurance race.
 
Yeah that helps to. On my version of GT2 (I believe it's the first version because it has the muscle car cup IA License bug and a few others that arn't fixed in the newer versions) using a contoller that has a wheel and an extended break and acceleration button just hardly touching it will have the effect of pressing it down all the way and not smoking your tires at all. It's a strange bug but it works to your favor if you have a specialty controller.

Lucky me I have the bugged version :rolleyes: :spam:
 

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