Trial Ryzen Build. Plausable?

[Sanji Himura]

A major note is that I am carrying over my HDD from my old PC over to this build to preserve my Windows 10 install. That is why there is no HDD slot in the build list. I estimate that the move will save me roughly $250 USD in parts and the OS.

Anyways, here's the build. Feel free to nitpick as needed.

Case: Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-ALPHA ATX Mid Tower Gaming Case (Link) $79.99
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-AX370-GAMING 5 AM4 ATX Motherboard (link) $194.99
CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 1800X (Link) $499.99
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 by GIGABYTE (Link) $589.99
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (Link) $239.99
PSU: Corsair AXi Series AX1200i 1200W 80 PLUS PLATINUM ATX12V Power Supply (Link) $309.99
Total (minus the pre-order stuff): $1,219.96
Total (with pre-orders): $1,914.94

 

[20832]

What a hideous case that is...

Good luck on the build though, really looking forward to some performance numbers. The price-to-performance is incredible with these new Ryzen chips.

Edit: Just a question, why are you going for a 1200W PSU? 650W should be more than plenty to run such a system. Maybe bumping it up to 850W for a potential SLI setup, but that just seems overkill.

 

[Sanji Himura]

Edit: Just a question, why are you going for a 1200W PSU? 650W should be more than plenty to run such a system. Maybe bumping it up to 850W for a potential SLI setup, but that just seems overkill.

Doing it on a recommendation. I don't have suggestive wattage numbers anywhere in front of me at any point, so I figure to be safe than sorry and go with a 1200W PSU to ensure that everything has enough power to run.

 

[Grayfox]

Doing it on a recommendation. I don't have suggestive wattage numbers anywhere in front of me at any point, so I figure to be safe than sorry and go with a 1200W PSU to ensure that everything has enough power to run.

Having more watts than needed can be just as bad.

Use the PSU calculator to find out what you really need.

My i5 6600k, GTX1080 rig only has a 750w PSU which is more than enough even with overclocking.

 

[TB]

Looks to need about 400 watts and a second 1080 would only get you up to about 600 so I'd be looking at around a 750, too.

 

[Grayfox]

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139084&cm_re=Hx750i-_-17-139-084-_-Product
This Corsair HX750i PSU is $170

With that $130 you can save you can get a Samsung EVO960 250GB SSD
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147593

 

[Nexus]

I'd go for this power supply (it's overkill, but here's a review of it). With the money saved from that, I'd get an SSD (SATA SSD's are fast enough for most people, but you might be interested in a PCI-E SSD).

You mentioned re-using the OS from your old build, is it a pre-built? Because if so, you'll most likely need to buy a new Windows licence. I'm pretty sure that you can't transfer licences from pre-builts.

 

[Omnis]

The PSU is way overkill and you can get a faster 16x2 memory kit for cheaper with G.Skill's tridentZs. The ripjaws are 230 but I just got the tridents for 189 on sale at newegg.

Ryzen and a 1080 only pulls like 400 watts at the absolute overvolted max. You'd be better suited getting a cheaper 800 watt that would let you afford another 1080.

 

[Grayfox]

The PSU is way overkill and you can get a faster 16x2 memory kit for cheaper with G.Skill's tridentZs. The ripjaws are 230 but I just got the tridents for 189 on sale at newegg.

Ryzen and a 1080 only pulls like 400 watts at the absolute overvolted max. You'd be better suited getting a cheaper 800 watt that would let you afford another 1080.

Faster memory does not make any real world improvement on everyday performance.

But cheaper RAM that is still good quality is not a bad idea.

The savings can go towards a AIO water cooler.
Since the CPU is an X, it will not come with a cooler.

 

[Sanji Himura]

You mentioned re-using the OS from your old build, is it a pre-built? Because if so, you'll most likely need to buy a new Windows licence. I'm pretty sure that you can't transfer licences from pre-builts.

The old PC isn't a pre-built. It was built at a mom and pop store with a Windows 7 install that I upgraded to Windows 10 as soon as it was available to Microsoft Insiders. I swapped the HDD due to the fact that the HDD that came in it was a SSD that burnt out after three years of use, and reinstalled Windows 10 on that PC with the help of Microsoft techs (I actually got my case elevated with tech support over the matter). It will be this second HDD that I will carry over into the new PC.

 

[Nexus]

The old PC isn't a pre-built. It was built at a mom and pop store with a Windows 7 install that I upgraded to Windows 10 as soon as it was available to Microsoft Insiders. I swapped the HDD due to the fact that the HDD that came in it was a SSD that burnt out after three years of use, and reinstalled Windows 10 on that PC with the help of Microsoft techs (I actually got my case elevated with tech support over the matter). It will be this second HDD that I will carry over into the new PC.

Ah, fair enough. Just keep in mind that some Windows licences (OEM licences) are non-transferable (these are tied to the motherboard AFAIK). If you have a product key though, you should be good to go.

 

[Sanji Himura]

Ah, fair enough. Just keep in mind that some Windows licences (OEM licences) are non-transferable (these are tied to the motherboard AFAIK). If you have a product key though, you should be good to go.

No, I know for sure that the Windows 7 install was not an OEM license. I have the original disk.

 

[Sanji Himura]

If my math is right, I'm only going to need 550W in the given setup that I see here. Did I do everything right?

Anyways, I have updated the build below in a Mk. 2 version. I have also noted the savings over the previous version so I will keep a running total of the savings.

Case: Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-ALPHA ATX Mid Tower Gaming Case (Link) $79.99
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-AX370-GAMING 5 AM4 ATX Motherboard (link) $194.99
CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 1800X (Link) $499.99
GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 by GIGABYTE (Link) $589.99
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (Link) $239.99
PSU: Corsair RMx Series RM550X 550W 80 PLUS GOLD Haswell Ready Power Supply (Link) $99.90

Total (minus shipping): $1,704.04
Running Savings: +$210.90

 

[Pillo-san]

chose the 1700 instead of the 1800x, cheaper and overclocks the same, to about 3.9ghz.
mobo whatever ya want, asrock taichi/asus prime/crosshair 6 seems to have a really god vrm solution, the gigabyte is good too.
Ram right now most of the users get max 2666mhz but can oc to 2933max, so 3200 maybe is a but to much right now as the bios seems a bit buggy at the moment. Get the cheapest 3000/3200 mem like corsair(usually here at elast)
psu is a good choice, can be cheaper if you get the evga g2 as it is the same unit but with a louder fan(just a bit)

No cooler?

To bad the Ryzen 7 has such low oc potential as it seems quite capable ipc wise which makes it to be as good fps wise as an i5(raw fps) but seems to be much smoother(duuh 8 cores )

No, I know for sure that the Windows 7 install was not an OEM license. I have the original disk.

no it does not work like that, If you have updated to win10. You have oem now. in the beggning of win 10update, the cdkey(original win7) was tied to the mobo, but now it is registered/tied to your ms account. you still need to write the org win7 key in win 10 when it asks for it. I have used four different machines with my win7 cdkey.

Buy a ssd and use the hdd as a storage device.

 

[Sanji Himura]

No cooler?

There is nothing available on Newegg at the current moment for an AM4 socket heatsink. May look into water cooling if I feel confident enough to not screw up the install.

As far as the Windows 10 issue is concerned, I'll just refer you to here:

Your Windows 10 license should be tied to your Microsoft account that you use to sign in with. I upgraded my mobo/cpu/ram and Windows told me that I'd have to purchase a new copy. In the activate Windows app, I selected that I had issues at the bottom and it asked me if I "upgraded" my PC, which I said yes, and boom- activated Windows.

 

[Pillo-san]

stock am3 with the clamps works with am4 if you dont buy an am4 specific cooler right now.

Yepp. all you need to do is when you install win is to choose to login to win with your ms account and then write your win 7 cdkey if win activation asks for it.

The Youtuber Joker has the best "review" of the Ryzen if you ask me.
He has the newest bios and did not have any problems with selecting right memory speeds.
Other testers had some issues with mems.

 

[Sanji Himura]

stock am3 with the clamps works with am4 if you dont buy an am4 specific cooler right now.

Yepp. all you need to do is when you install win is to choose to login to win with your ms account and then write your win 7 cdkey if win activation asks for it.

The Youtuber Joker has the best "review" of the Ryzen if you ask me.
He has the newest bios and did not have any problems with selection memory speeds.
Other testers had some issues with mems.

Yes, I noticed that Linus had some issues with memory on some benchmarks. However, I am not overall concerned about them since I primarily use my PC to stream.