Trouble connecting Fanatec GT2 wheel and RF Dongle

[Snakebitten]

Afternoon GTP. Does anyone else have trouble connecting their GT2 wheel to the PS3 via the wireless RF dongle? I've done an extensive search on this forum and the net and had found many possible solutions. I tried quite a few and still it wont connect via the Dongle.

Here is the recommended method that I've tried over and over among a few others:

1. Turn on PS3 and leave it on XMB screen and turn off PS3 controller.
2. Plug in dongle in USB port of PS3.
3. Plug in GT2 wheel and turn it on. It goes through the lock to lock routine and stops off center. (---) is showing on the tuning screen.
4. Press "back" button for 1 sec to put wheel in PC mode. (---) disappears and tuning screen is blank.
5. Press button under RF Dongle and a white and red light start flashing on each respective side of Dongle.
6. Press "back" button and "connect" button on left of tuning screen simultaneously for 15-20 secs.

According to instructions this should bind the wheel to the PS3 but it does not in my case. Nothing happens and the wheel is not connected. The wheel works, of course, when connected via USB cable.

I even tried the old Turbo S wheel instructions to press the "back" button and "right" on the D pad for similar seconds but with no results either.

According to Fanatec the stock shipped Firmware of 681 is what the wheel is shipped with and its the only firmware that the Dongle will work with. Reading that I did NOT update any firmware etc. So everything is as Fanatec says so it should work. But it doesn't.

Has anyone found a way to make this work? The only reason I bought this wheel was because of the wireless capability. BTW on setup the PS3 is not even 2 feet away from the wheel and there are no walls etc in between them so its not a range or obstruction issue. I appreciate any insight. Thanks.

 

[Snakebitten]

Anyone? I could really use some help here. Thanks

 

[LeMansAid]

Apparently the process is meant to be the same for the Turbo S as the GT2. Below I have quoted what I found, and it appears to be different to what you have been trying.

Bind RF Dongle (PS3/PC)

After a firmware update it is required to make a new binding between RF Dongle and PWTS.
Procedure: -> Connect RF Dongle to PC or PS3
-> Power on PWTS and activate PC mode (press back button one second)
-> Press the binding button on the dongle - LED starts blinking
-> Press STB (start button) and right D-Pad button (DPR) simultaneously.
-> LED stops blinking and lights constantly - RF Dongle and PWTS are connected

If that doesn't get you anywhere, maybe you can try it on pc?

 

[Snakebitten]

Than

Apparently the process is meant to be the same for the Turbo S as the GT2. Below I have quoted what I found, and it appears to be different to what you have been trying.

Bind RF Dongle (PS3/PC)

After a firmware update it is required to make a new binding between RF Dongle and PWTS.
Procedure: -> Connect RF Dongle to PC or PS3
-> Power on PWTS and activate PC mode (press back button one second)
-> Press the binding button on the dongle - LED starts blinking
-> Press STB (start button) and right D-Pad button (DPR) simultaneously.
-> LED stops blinking and lights constantly - RF Dongle and PWTS are connected

If that doesn't get you anywhere, maybe you can try it on pc?

Thanks for the reply LeMans. I mentioned that I did try the method you posted above. I have the old Turno S manual with this same instructions but it still doesn't work sadly.

I hooked up the wheel via USB cable, after the frustration with the dongle, and I can get its buttons to work. But when I go to race I have no steering and my CS pedals don't work. I'm afraid I've bought an expensive paper weight. I've spent the last 4 hours scouring the net for help and emailing fanatec but to no avail. There are no detailed instructions that come with it and the manual does not tell you how to make it work in game etc. I'm so frustrated at this point.

 

[LeMansAid]

I noticed that you mentioned the Turbo S instructions, but I didn't know if the start button suggested that what you tried was different.

You might want to make sure that the wheel is registering as controller 1. If you are also using a DS3, change that to controller 2.

Definitely get it working wired first though. Don't lose heart, this stuff can be painstaking sometimes.

 

[skazz]

If the buttons work but not the steering then it's probably a power issue: generally wheels use USB to power their buttons and only need external power for the steering and FFB..... Although if there was no power you'd also not see it spin up to calibrate after you turn it on.

Iirc there are 2 PS/2 type plugs on the side of the GT2, one is for the shifter. Do you have the cables plugged in correctly?

 

[Snakebitten]

If the buttons work but not the steering then it's probably a power issue: generally wheels use USB to power their buttons and only need external power for the steering and FFB..... Although if there was no power you'd also not see it spin up to calibrate after you turn it on.

Iirc there are 2 PS/2 type plugs on the side of the GT2, one is for the shifter. Do you have the cables plugged in correctly?

Hey Skazz. I plugged the PS/2 cord into the matching green PS/2 plug on the steering wheel and then plugged in the other end of the PS/2 cord to the matching green PS/2 plug on the CS pedals.

It's definitely not a power issue to me because when I hook it up via USB cable the wheel will do the calibration and light up. Also when I start a race, using the wheel buttons, I don't have steering in game at all but when I press the gas pedal it vibrates but no acceleration. So it seems to be getting power to both wheel and pedals but they are not functioning like they should in game.

LeMans thanks for the encouragement. I'll try some more today. I doubt Fanatec will respond to me since its the weekend so I appreciate both your suggestions very much. As for the DS3 I turn it off after I get to XMB screen and before I turn on the wheel so that only the wheel is registered as a control device.

 

[skazz]

You are putting the wheel into PS3 mode correctly?

 

[Snakebitten]

You are putting the wheel into PS3 mode correctly?

I just retried everything with a fresh brain. I now have it working via USB in game. Now I'm having trouble getting the wheel to stay on center lol. I have to keep pressing L3&R3 and then XBox botton and cock it right of center on every start up to get it centered. What a pain.

Anyway it's working in game now with the USB cable only.

The Dongle still will not work sadly. Still have no clue why. I tried the instructions again with no results.

 

[Snakebitten]

Ok I've got the wheel working in game now via the USB cable. I still as of now cant get the dongle to bind with the PS3. As mentioned its less than 3-4 feet away from the PS3 and no walls in the way. I've tried every solution I could find on Google and some on here but to no avail. I'm thinking its busted and will have to call Fanatec next week unless I can figure this out myself which I doubt. The official direction have been tried over 20+ times and still nothing.

Why do I feel like Im the only guy with this problem lol. Any other suggestions GTP?

 

[skazz]

I guess almost nobody bothered with the dongle.... All I can suggest is reflashing 681 firmware via a PC just to be absolutely sure your wheel is running that.

Oh, and after spin up my GT2 wheel never centers, it always finishes up offcenter. That doesn't mean it's lost center, it's just the way calibration works and in game the wheel should be centered fine. I certainly never needed to reset center each time I turned it on!
On the other hand, when new mine would gradually lose center after some time of play, turned out that the code wheel sensor was not good and needed replacing. So if you are finding that the center position in game is changing then it's likely to be the code wheel sensor.

 

[Snakebitten]

That's a good idea about checking the firmware to make sure. I'll check it out when I get the chance. Thnx for the info on the wheel centering. I hope it isn't a code wheel sensor as I haven't even had time to run a full race yet.

 

[Raitziger]

I think latest firmwares have disabled dongle support increase communication frequency and wheel accuracy.(But you already knew that, didn't you?)

 

[LeMansAid]

Even simpler would be the firmware check:

- switch the wheel on
- when it's around 90 degrees from resting at centre during initial calibration, grab the wheel
- hold the wheel and then press and hold the lowest four face buttons
- turn it to centre manually

The current firmware will flash up on the wheel's screen. Be aware that this also switches between fan off setting (responds to heat levels) and fan on setting (always on). Do it again if it changes to the setting you don't want. I recommend always on.