Instead of using toe, you have plenty of solutions to work with :
- "low" front aero (more or less 97% of max) / high rear aero (100%)
- stiffen the rear spring rates but not too hard
- low ext/high ext in the rear
- high antiroll bar at the rear but not too hard
- put more camber in rear than front, but no more than 0.8
- front brake use like 3/2 or even brakes like 3/3 or 2/2 when the weigth is equilibrated
- kill the LSD (5/5/x, if it's a FF that will be 5/5/5)
- on 4RM, put at least 25% in front and work the LSD hard.
- a long tranny helps
- raise the front heigth +20 or +30 of the rear in almost last ressort
- use positive rear toe in extreme last ressort
- ... and solution I forgot/don't know yet.
You should have a glimpse at my
E-Type Coupe or my
Zonda R to find inspiration or look to other setups from people here who use no driving aids (because they tune "natural" aspects of the car : the better it handle without aid, the best it is - accel/top speed. At the end in a race with two same cars, one with driving aid/toe and one without, the one without will win for the most part).
Don't use toe, it'll make strange reactions in the car, especially in the middle of a powerslide : the car can change direction when you don't expect very violently (just when you get back traction grip, you'll loose control).
This phenomenon exist even with sligth value of it, at +0.08 rear with my Jaguar or +0.15 with my Zonda for exemple.
Toe is a mean to devalue your car in a lot of aspects, to cure some few problems. You'll want it out of your car in most situation because it kill your acceleration and it'll force you to use TCS to avoid that phenomenon which will kill you more accel on top of that.
You should use it only when all I listed failed or can't be made on that car (for the Zonda, raising the front isn't possible for exemple, it's almost an LM).
