Weird problem with tuning.

  • Thread starter XeMciLaH
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XeMciLaH
Okay. So I'm a little new with this whole advanced tuning in GT5.
When I'm tuning something for instance suspension, iUse Automatic instead of manual to see if a little change will increase or worsen my time. iUse automatic since the computer has a more accurate time than iWould if iWere using manual. So iPlayed around with numbers on the suspension and got a certain time for a 1/4 mile, for example let's say iGot 8.950. iLeft the suspension alone and didn't touch anything. When iWent to redo the 1/4 mile again, my time was slower even though iWas using automatic and hadn't changed anything. iHad my finger pointing the right analog stick up the entire time and now everytime iRedo the 1/4 mile my time is 8.980. I'm so confused because on my record is says 8.950 but everytime iDo it over iGet 8.980 even though it's the same EXACT tune. iTried oil change which was unavailable, iTried the engine thing and the chasis thing in the GT Auto and they were also both unavailable. I'm so confuseddddd! Some please help. It would be very much appreciated. (:

- All numbers above are examples for the sake of my problem.
 
Wheelspin off the line could be a factor, as in it's not the same every time you launch. The last time I tried to get off a line fast repeatedly, I experimented a bit with throttle input, works especially well if the road surface is wet.
 
Not just at the start but changing gear too. GT5 has a very weird system whereby "max" power can SOMETIMES be 2000rpm+ away from the "shift light". Other cars, this could be just 500rpm.

An auto box will automatically shift around the shift light(red line of tacho / rev counter), whereas a manual - you can shift when you want.

Look at cars like the Premium Subaru Spec C '05 - there's a big gap from max power (on the graph in settings) to where the shift light is (the RPM figure in bottom right corner of said graph).

Use a manual, you can keep the car in the power band (short shift) better than an auto box - but this all varies on the car and what level of tune, as some tuning parts can affect the power curve and rpm's.

Also, power limiter affects this too - you heavily power limit a car, it flattens the peak power (dependant on how much use of power limiter is made).

Some of the GTR's (NISMO LM R33 I think??) and the RS200 (stock) have big "gaps" from max power to shift light too, something you want to bear in mind. It doesn't make a huge difference, but every little helps and you always want to try and keep the revs where the power (and torque - for some cars) are.

Auto box's are more likely not to do this - but this is affected by what car and level of tuning you're using. Look at each car individually and use this info according to each individual car. Some are affected worse than others.
 
If you were running on ssrx then the point at which you give it gas affects your times. For the best consistency just hold the throttle from the beginning of the black loading screen. Even the slightest variance will throw off your time as the needle will be bouncing off the rev-limiter if you are launching wot. When you mash the gas affects what rpm you launch from. It seems insignificant but slight variations can affect your times by .020 or more. If you launch using auto and the same launch method every time you will get consistent times across the board. Unless you're car hasn't been broken in yet which will result in gradual increases in performance over a number of runs as your engine gains power.
 
Yeah, iUse SSRX. iSlam the gas before the 3, 2, 1. iUse automatic just to see the difference in numbers on a tune. Like iUse the SSRX automatic to see if a spring rate of 20.0 in the front makes my car a tad bit faster than 19.0 according to the computer. I'm still a noob though so I'm trying to get the hang of learning the whole shiftpoints and the power band stuff. Confuses me a little. iDon't really like using automatic. iUse manual in races and stuff o.O. Haha. So time consuming >:embarrassed: Grawwwr. !
 
Ahh, okay. before the car and during the blakc screen, Got it!(: And iHad Dr_Slumps tuning bible. iDidn't know about the other one. iHave Dr_Slumps favorited. iUnderstand your guide more than a lot of others.(: Thanks Kennyblanco, Dr_Slump, Highlandor, and Trackripper123 :D
 
XeMciLaH, I have had the same problem in the past with inconsistent drag times. Using AT and traction control, it is possible to get exactly the same time run after run. However, sometimes I find the time will change for no apparent reason (usually in the first few runs).

Conspiracy theories might suggest it is related to the online bug where some PS3's "lose" time, which makes these drivers go slower. I dunno what the reason is. But I just wanted to pop in and say that a) yes, it should be the same if your testing method is correct but b) don't worry, you're not going insane, sometimes it isn't!
 
Haha. Thanks! So happy to know I'm not the only one that had the same problem. Thanks to the members above they've given me some suggestions to avoid it. (:
 
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It's probably just that your 8.950 run was done with a very slight variance in launch RPM (maybe your analog stick flickered a bit during countdown), nothing more.

I personally always use the X button for my drag testing, and once I get it as good as I can with a WOT-from-load launch I'll play with the launch and shift points.

Unless, of course, it's a car that has a powerband completely wrong for automatic to work at all, in which case I'll still do the WOT launch for consistency but I'll have to do more runs to verify whether a change helped or hurt.
 
I use to use the x button when I use to play like gt3 then I played midnight club and learned about the analog stick. Now when I use the button it feels weird on my finger. Lol.
 
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