Weird thing about weight distribution

  • Thread starter claudiorz
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gon7710
I've been trying to tune some MR cars, which seem to be more difficult to drive than in GT5 with lots of corner exit oversteer, and playing with the weight distribution I've noticed that the more weight you put on the back of the car, the more oversteer you get when on throttle. Happened to every single car I tried (GT40 Mark I, Evora, Diablo GT, Huayra, Zonda C12S and the R18).
Shouldn't this be the other way round? More weight should equal more traction, right? The effect is very noticeable, some of the cars like the Evora and the Diablo GT are nearly undrivable with the stock distribution and become much less oversteery if you add front ballast.
 
Power causes the wheels to loss traction.
Once the tires break free the extra weight in the rear will enhance the rear sliding out.

Moving towards a more balanced weight distribution you'll notice this somewhat less. MR cars tend to be more powerful so it's fairly easy to get your rear tires spinning and set things in motion.
Adjusting LSD and transmission can help limit this to an extent but a lot of it will be on the driver showing good throttle control and smooth steering inputs.
 
Think of a pendulum.

The more weight there is at the bottom of that pendulum, the harder it is going to be to get that pendulum to swing. But once it starts swinging, it's going to do so with more force than if it had less weight at the end.
 
Touché @XDesperado67.

I used my Lotus Europa Anniversary car on the seasonal event and was a great car to hone in the skill to handle weight transfer. Untuned and smooth inputs, otherwise this car will bite you.
 
as everyone said you are going to get more snap oversteer, just as you would get a lot of understeer if you put the ballast on the front in an FF
have you tried using camber, toe in at the rear and maybe different LSD set-ups?
also try putting the ballast at the front
 
Autozam AZ-1 either stock or with upgrades makes a great learner car for MRs.

Stock you can run it in low level events to start getting a feel for the handling differences. Then crank up the power and start running more challenging events.

The handling of a MR or RR car and how you drive them will be different from a FF or 4wd. The answer isn't trying to tune them to drive like another kind of car, but instead learning how to utilize them the way they are.
 
I've only driven 1 MR so far, the Stratos, and it seems a lot more slippery in the back end both while cornering and trying to get the power done, much moreso that in GT5 and it was ornery enough then. I will test out the BTR and Yellowbird soon and see if they are affected as well.
 
There's not a huge difference between GT5 and GT6 tuning, there's definately no need to learn GT6 all over.. just adjusting a few variables.

Been using my setup calculator since the first hr of playing, it works better on GT6 than it did on GT5. Small tweaks needed yes, but a complete overhaul and starting afresh - no way...

MR cars are so much easier to tune than in GT5 if using weight distribution theory..

First impressions it looks like PD have similiar rules, but they've played with the strengths of such. Once you have achieved "core" balance, which, like GT5 can differ (of % strengths), it only really needs tweaking after that.

Every car, from Fit to FXX / Audi R10 has been tuned in minutes, some are bang on straight out the box (tuned in 60 seconds)..

GT6 has way too much natural grip and balance (FXX with 780bhp & sports hard @ Brands Hatch was so easy to drive). I think PD will adjust things at some point (in terms of natural grip/traction) in game, it's way too much at the moment.
 
Power causes the wheels to loss traction.
Once the tires break free the extra weight in the rear will enhance the rear sliding out.

Moving towards a more balanced weight distribution you'll notice this somewhat less. MR cars tend to be more powerful so it's fairly easy to get your rear tires spinning and set things in motion.
Adjusting LSD and transmission can help limit this to an extent but a lot of it will be on the driver showing good throttle control and smooth steering inputs.

Strongly agree with you. People drive with TCS 0 and try to correct their cars by installing and adjusting LSD and other stuff, and they said they drive with no aids, big facepalm. Throttle control and steering input FTW.
 
Thanks all for your replys.
The thing is, not only a heavy rear-biased distribution increases the sliding when you lose traction (this I get and makes sense), but it also makes it waaaay too easy to lose traction in the first place even without touching the brakes or the throttle. It increases rotation of the car under all circumstances and this is what I don't understand.
 
Thanks all for your replys.
The thing is, not only a heavy rear-biased distribution increases the sliding when you lose traction (this I get and makes sense), but it also makes it waaaay too easy to lose traction in the first place even without touching the brakes or the throttle. It increases rotation of the car under all circumstances and this is what I don't understand.

Listen to this guy:

Think of a pendulum.
The more weight there is at the bottom of that pendulum, the harder it is going to be to get that pendulum to swing. But once it starts swinging, it's going to do so with more force than if it had less weight at the end.
 
Yeah, I got that.
But in this case as I said, not only the pendulum swings faster when it starts swinging, it is also easier to get it to swing, not harder like he states. That's the problem.
 
Whatever end you ADD weight to in this game is going to slide. If the rear is getting loose add weight to the front. If its pushing add weight to the rear.. What car is it??? Also i to had a bad problem with mid engine cars.. running a softer rear spring than front will help tighten a car up (example) SPRING 15.5/13.5 I run nothing lower on ride height than whatever the 80/80 is.. Also I know it is strange but adding camber to the front will tighten the car up a lot. I am running 4.0/0.00 on my R8 4.2 so it wont spin out. adding camber to the rear makes the car a lot looser... Might not be how it is in real life but its that way in the game. Run a lower spring than the front in the rear. Run 0.00 rear camber and start with 3.0 in the front.. My LSD is 10/15/20 and roll bars start high like 6/6.. Just try it and see if it tightens the car up. IF it does start backing off the front camber and start raising the rear spring closer to what the front is and it will start getting loose. Find a happy medium.. Let us know how it goes...
 
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